Mustang65

All went as hoped! Thanks

I copied my ISY994I setup to my ISY994ZW, and it went rather well, actually better than I anticipated reading some of the 5.x upgrade dilemmas. I successfully deleted the GEM appearances for the Energy monitor, but let's go back to the initial login. No 9 character problem in the 4.x versions. As requested, I enter a 9 character User ID then a password and I get an error that the "User ID" is not long enough, character wise. I guess that there is a default of admin that is allowed in either field and that happens to be a lot less than 9 characters.

Thanks Paul, I guess it does not matter if the attached communications plugins are Zwave or ZigBee, so it loads the OS then cares for the addons? If that is how it works, then I guess I will just do a backup from the ISY994i to the ISY994ZW, and do a little deleting. Fingers are crossed! Thanks

I did not find any posts that cover this, so here it goes. I now have 2 ISY's, a ISY994I (with ZigBee added), and a ISY994ZW which I just received. Both are running 5...….12. I want to move all the programs, scenes... to the ISY994ZW from the ISY994i (but not the GEM/DataBox part). This way I will have the GEM/DataBox connected to the ISY994I and all the modules connected to the ISY994ZW. Is there an easy way to pull this off without having to enter each one manually into the ISY994ZW? They are both on the same network. I thought about restoring the ISY994ZW using a backup from the ISY994I, but I have all the things from the GEM/DataBox that would also be moved, also and more importantly one is a ZW one is a I so that will not work. Thanks

Just curious... does any one have an Echo in a room where it is close to a window? My question is, if you go outside and you get close to the window and ask "Alexa, unlock the front door" will she hear the request and follow through with the request? Just wondering

Really a VERY NICE job!!!! But that leaves me with on "Off the WALL" question... or should I say "On the WALL" question, is that outlet plate on an angle or do I need to see the eye doctor? Again VERY NICE JOB!!

I noticed that I never gave you the updated information. I installed the PLM and all the power transformers in a metal water proof box. I ran the Cat5 through the PVC pipe into the Main Service panel and out to the Cable box that houses the ISY, GEM, Dash Box and 1Gb Network switch. All are working perfectly. Here is the link to the pictures if you are interested. The pictures with the ISY and transformer box are toward the bottom. http://www.how-to-doit.com/

Just looking over my LOG file and was wondering if there is a way to keep the GEM data updates from the LOG file (Option ON/OFF), as the updates occur every few seconds. Currently I have to resort the LOG to find the non-GEM items. Can a secondary LOG file be created for import data like the GEM. I did a quick search and did not find any options.

How about a low pressure switch 3.1PSI (max 150 psi allowed) on your pipe. It can be used with the Insteon Remote Control Plug-in Low Voltage Controller. This should also catch a valve that is not totally closing. Don https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K24KN8S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00K24KN8S&pd_rd_wg=fajQK&pd_rd_r=PXWM0PXED6QA84KFYP4K&pd_rd_w=iopoa

The issue with this one is The battery installed has 3x capacity than in regular Wireless Sensor Tag but is not replaceable.

Amazon has a NPT 3/4" flow sensor. Hall effect type. The sensors on Amazon that start with "G" are British thread not NPT Don https://www.amazon.com/H2OPro-3-Wire-Digital-Collector-Output/dp/B077H8BCJJ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525561985&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=liquid+flow+meter+npt+3%2F4+inch+sensor

My 2AM thought process. How about this. Get an Insteon/ZWAVE water leak sensor. Seal it tight, probably with epoxy. If you have a pool where the water flows into the return at the pools surface level, they usually have a cover over that area. You may have to mount the water leak sensor sideways because of the antenna, and make the contact connections at a 90 degree angle. Purchase an INSTEON water leak sensor or a ZWAVE if they have one. - While your pool water level is at a point that it needs to be refilled - Measure the space between the bottom of the cover plate and the water level - FILL your pool to the level you want - Measure the space between the bottom of the cover plate and the water level - Subtract the thickness of the water leak sensor case from the above measurements - Extend the 2 INSTEON/ZWAVE water leak sensor contacts on the bottom of the sensor case (solder 2 metal rods to the contacts) - Mount the water leak sensor to the bottom of the cover. - The length of the mounted rods should be a length so that when the water level is low, the rods will not be contacting the water (ISY will see a WET - OFF/DRY - ON) and your program will trigger a "TIME TO FILL POOL" text message and possibly activate a fill pool program (not really recommended). Not sure if you need to reset the sensor each time it has been activated. You can put a wait in the program of maybe 1 hour to insure that the activation is TRUE and not just a wake, or set the program to check at times when the pump is not operating. You may have to clean the extended contacts every now and then, just like my soil moisture sensors. Maintenance You could also program in a timer that would track time between your fill up and refill time to indicate normal loss or rapid loss due to a leak somewhere, like in a pump fitting. Something to think about

I agree, let ISY issue a msg that the water level is low, manually turn on a valve or manually activate an electronically controlled valve. One additional item that I would add to the system would be an electronic water flow sensor. This would be good to see how much water was added using city/well water, also a way to monitor if there is a valve that is not closing 100%. I have both on my main city water supply, need to move them over to ISY sometime in the future.

A water level sensor with an electronic On/Off valve (under ISY control) on the main pool water source. ISY could monitor the water level and allow the water valve to remain open for "X" amount of time and if it has to turn off the valve it (due to time on) can text you.

They have a z-uno processor that you can design around and access with ISY. Well, you can check to see if it will interface with ISY. You could take sensor readings when the pool pump is off, or at a specific time (6am and 11pm)... https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Me/b/ref=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_11388845011?ie=UTF8&node=11388845011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Z-Wave.Me

Not a swimming pool, but the main rain-barrel (10 in series/parallel). I originally set it up to use the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic distance senor, but had issues when the rain water was filling up the barrel, it would disrupt the true water level by causing LARGE ripples and the output of the sensor would go crazy. I probably could have re-did the script, but I took it out and went back to the old trusty analog float/string/switch method. Still works perfectly. I also started a system that uses a pressure sensor to measure the barrel level. With the pressure sensor and the PVC pipe it will show the actual level without any ripples/waves. I have a 3' piece of 1/2" PVC that has a cap on it and a MPX5010GP pressure sensor that will be secured/sealed in the cap of the PVC. The output will not fluctuate when the rain gutter is dumping rain into the barrel. As for wireless I have a bunch of ESP8266 (xmit/rec) modules, a nodeMCU ESP8266, and a lot of NFR24L01's to choose from. The only thing missing is "TIME"... too many other projects going at one time. Good Luck

Well, I took out my second shortest network cables (6' or 1.8m) cable and with the other cables in the 3/4" electrical PVC conduit, it will not fit. So today, I will make a custom fit Cat5 cable to get the final part of the relocation done. Now where are the tools?

36" is the one that I got. In the old location it worked perfectly.

Thanks, 6' is what I need

After doing a search and not coming up with an answer, here I am. I am in the process of moving the PLM and I need a longer cable. My question is: Is the cable used to connect the PLM to ISY994iZ the standard off the shelf RJ45 Ethernet cable? I have a bunch of them, but did not want to plug it in until I got a definite yes or no. Don

Before moving to Florida, I lived in Northern Illinois at the Wisconsin border. I travelled 40 miles to work each day and would return home in the winter when it was dark. A lot of my travel was done on a 2 lane country road. Each night I would encounter the same drivers heading in the other direction, unfortunately that was toward me. The same ones would have their bright lights on and if I flashed, they would not go to LOW beams, they kept the lights on HIGH beam. I would have to look off to the side, before we passed each other. I had a BRIGHT idea, mount a small planes Halogen landing lights under my front bumper. My friend was a small plane maintenance technician, and got me (2) 25,000 or 30,000 candle power bulbs. I think that is the candlepower for them. I bought (2) 12 volt batteries and a controller that would charge them at 12Volts and when the Landing Light switch was hit, converted the batteries to 24volts, and lit up the world in front of me. Worked something like the starter/charger for the (2) 6 volt batteries in my '66 Volkswagen. It would charge at 6 volts, but when I turned the key to start it changed them to 12VDC. Well, the LANDING lights worked GREAT. I was amazed how far you can see with them on! After the installation weekend, come Monday night, and on my way home from work, the same drivers heading toward me (when they passed I recognized them). I figured I would give them the benefit of the doubt, when they were way, way, way down the road approaching me, I did a quick flash of the regular bright lights. They did not dim there's! So I gave them a FLASH of the landing lights. One of them did not dim his/her lights so I gave them a LONGER FLASH of the landing lights. It was interesting how they began acknowledging my regular car's high beam after a few nights. I loved driving with those lights on (when no one was coming toward me), but the 24 volt battery power would not last that long. I guess that is how you fight fire with fire or in my case light with LIGHT!

Thanks

One more question.... I know that I have the Local IP address setup in ISY and I clicked on the "Enable Internet Access" to toggle on/off, I noticed that the Public IP appears in the box. Not sure as to where ISY is getting my Public IP address from. Just curious Thanks

This should be a quick question. I have a "DYNAMIC" Public IP address and needless to say every now and then the ISP changes the IP address. Although the last time was during the hurricane last summer where we lost our connection for a few days, which automatically assigns a new IP address when their system comes back up. I do not have an issue with getting the new IP address as it is automatically sent to me by my Raspberry Pi, which checks each hour to see if I have the same IP address or if it has changed. If it changed I get the email with the new IP. I thought about having it texted to me, but I already had the code for the email working. I looked through the various sections of ISY and could not locate any screen that needed the new PUBLIC IP address to be manually entered within ISY. I believe the only location is with the portal. Am I missing something. Since I am away 4-6 months of the year, it would be difficult to manually enter the new IP address if required. I do not think that this will be a problem. Thanks

I already have one on the house and the RV