Construction Dust !

[aLf]

I'm building a new house. 

 

I'd like input on the following and hope this thread can be an up-to-date resource for me in making some "smarthome" decisions.  Any help and feedback will be appreciated.

 

• LED and the like fixtures and bulbs.  What is best and will play good with ISY?

 

• Alarm systems and help with wired or wireless and its integration with ISY.

 

• Radiant heat (multiple thermostats) and integration.

 

• I've always used Panasonic motion cameras in the past.  This house will need a full-time, recorded surveillance system that can be monitored or at very least looked back on if needed.  ( I will also incorporate some Panasonic PTZ's for my own looking).  Are there any ISY friendly systems out there?

Thanks,

 

aLf

[Techman]

As far as LED bulbs go, the CREE bulbs which are sold at Home Depot and online work very well with all the Insteon devices.

 

Hopefully someone else can help you with Radiant heat and surveillance systems.

[Teken]

If the house is being built there is no reason to go with wireless for a security alarm system, none. Hard wire 22-4, CAT6 for key pads for both the master bedroom and front entrance. Running multiple 22-4, CAT6, Coax, Power cabling for areas in conduit along with extra pairs so you're future proofed with a solid pull string.

 

I am a Axis, Mobotix, fan and supporter for camera's as we have been using them in Enterprise and all military installations. Many folks use the ELK Gold with the ELK Module from the ISY Series Controller which provides a little more smarts and interaction.

 

That's all I am going to say about that aspect.

 

If you intend to do some kind of whole house audio ensure you run all the A/V cable you think you will need and more. Again, running conduit in key central areas and local places is key. I don't care how long anyone has been in the game of installing its never fun pulling cable from the basement to the 2nd floor!

 

Decide now if you're going to use 4 wire or 2 wire smokes!

 

Run all the wires so that Sump, HWT, Low Temp, are roughed in at the ready. Install a closet panic button for instant break in / hold up.

 

Wire the perimeter of the home so motion lights are considered and blend in to the facade and not a after thought. Landscaping lights and path way lighting should be considered as part of the plan. If you intend to monitor the whole house environmental's again please wire in 22-4 / CAT6 cable for 1 wire temperature monitoring in all rooms, areas, zones, etc.

 

Some of the wires should be placed so a sensor(s) can monitor the attic space and ceiling. While others will be at switch outlet level etc. Run hardwire Ethernet in all rooms so you're not reliant on WiFi trust me you will thank me later!

 

Have the electrician keep as many rooms on dedicated circuit breakers where NEC allowed etc. This will allow you to monitor energy aspects of the home with out trying to figure out what loads are on a single circuit when the dumb *** included 15 rooms and floors!

 

Trust me I see this from lots of builders and from those too cheap to do it right. 

[aLf]

How can I find a good guy locally to help wire this properly?

[Teken]

How can I find a good guy locally to help wire this properly?

 

Any electrician who supports low voltage wiring can do this job but you will really need to sit down and plan the install. Normally this aspect is left with alarm specialist who primary design, build, and install security systems. I am not sure how many levels you have or how many windows you intend to use.

 

But should note, all basement windows should be wired, all exterior doors including the garage door. If this is a two story building these windows should also be wired. If you have garden doors which allows one door to be fully open while the other allows venting both doors should be wired to ensure closure.

 

Placement of motion sensors, glass break, and combination microwave sensors should be used to allow the most coverage and protection. Generally speaking motion sensors should be placed so objects cross the beam in a swept pattern. Much better and expansive sensors allow direct forward movement with little to know need of a swept pattern.

 

Glass / dual shock impact sensors should be installed per the manufacturers instructions for height, placement, and final testing. If you don't know what kind of furnishing or drapery is going to be in place. Ensure these sensors are calibrated properly based on the final environmental *ambient* room.

 

Do not allow anyone to simply rattle a set of keys as a final indicator that the glass break sensor is set correctly. Only actual impact to the glass is the final say and needs to be calibrated for both extreme and low impact all the while ignoring false alarms.

 

The use of dual tech sensors allows reduced false trips and accuracy of detection. This is why microwave / PIR are used in Enterprise / Military installations. In all cases regardless of the sensor type, brand, or installation a creep test and attack time test must be performed at least twice a year and the system calibrated to ensure the most consistent detection per your local environmental's.

 

Creep sensors are dual lens devices where one faces directly toward the floor. This ensures anyone *hugging* a wall can be detected. While the other lens is offers wide area coverage to ensure the perimeter is scanned and monitored.

 

Attack time testing is essentially walking, crawling, and standing still in various temperatures. This validates how the sensors in your local environment will react, detect, or not operate. In all cases only use outdoor rated sensors for extreme weather climates do not install indoor use sensors outdoors.

 

Attack time testing is programming the alarm panel to make the sensors LED blink, sirens chirp, and of course having the panel indicate where movement / area is breached. If you have small / large pets always ensure the *Pet Immune* sensor is well calibrated for the weight and size of the animal.

 

If you have cats and they like to jump onto furniture, sofas, beds, etc.

 

You need to take this into account afterwards and have the system calibrated for your real world use and living style. When having any system installed all zones need to be installed with EOL resistors.

 

This is at the sensor and not at the panel like 99% of the lazy asses out there! This will ensure if the line is cut, shorted, or a device is taken off line the breach will be detected. All sensors should be set for tamper when open and only allowed to be cleared upon resume of functionality.

 

Do not lease, rent a system as 99% of the time the panel will be locked and you can not migrate to another vendor or they will charge you for the privilege of unlocking your system. Do not repeat alarm codes and enable the minimum of 6-8 digits for the code.

 

Special installs we use 12 digits which expire on a rolling basis. You should out of course also change your alarm code on a annual basis. Ensure your pass phrase is unique and not something someone can guess or look up. Always set up a *Duress Code* both for the panel and for call in.

 

This one single aspect can save you, your family from being a victim. Even though your home is not a commercial building which must meet specific cUL / UL requirements. You should adopt as many elements and integrate those features and standards to allow the most robust and secure alarm system.

 

Do not self monitor . . .

 

You can find many CS (Central Stations) which offer reliable and reasonable monitoring. Always install a cellular back up to the hardline. Always monitor for fire / smoke, Co, sump, low temp. If you're sure about your system and its reliability of such you can monitor for water leaks for washer, hot water tank, dish washer, fridge ice maker, toilets, sinks etc.

 

Regardless of all the above and noise makers: Force protection is paramount meaning if this house is being built ensure the door frames are solid and reinforced from top to bottom. Solid wood / metal doors with a out swing security storm door. Strike plates, door jambs, and the screws that hold the door in place should be at a min 3" in length.

 

Basement windows can easily be protected with fire rated swing away bars that not only look great but serve real force protection.

 

If you look through the yellow pages and see all of the security firms out in your area. Ask any of them to explain to you what and how a security audit is performed. Anyone who tells you we don't do that, or can't explain in deafening detail what is involved needs to be passed and ignored.

 

To be fair, 90% of the companies out there have no freaking clue what a security audit is or how to complete one. Ask any bank, military, police, Enterprise company what that is and they all can tell you how long it took and what was involved. 

 

No, you're not a company but the assets you own and your family are just as important as their trade secrets and more. You can perform your own audit by reviewing day and night monitoring. Watching how far someone or something takes for you to see, hear, or realize is present.

 

How does your home, area, look in pitch dark and how easy is it to hide? Where is the light standard from your home and how well is it lit? Will the trees, shrubs, landscaping hide an intruder once done?

 

Can someone see straight through your house simply by looking at the bay window? What can be heard from 25 feet, 50 feet, 100 feet? 99% of the population are on a schedule and in doing so leave themselves vulnerable to quick smash and grabs.

 

Start a Crime Watch and enlist local police to help organize your community which is free! This lets you meet your neighbors, enlists others to watch out for each other, helps monitor unknown persons entering the area. Nothing beats grandma home 24/7!

 

If you don't have a dog get one . . .

 

Have him trained to provide feed back of cars, people, etc. There is a reason hes mans best friend besides good for company and retrieval of said cold beer from the fridge!

 

Much more but I am tired. 

[aLf]

Is there a good website to research LED options?

 

Is there someone out there who would be willing to talk to me about ELK compared to another security system?

 

Thanks,

 

aLf

[stusviews]

IMO, before comparing security systems, you should first assess your needs, then compare systems that fulfill those needs. While the Elk can be overkill in some situations, it's totally inadequate for others.

 

For example, are you concerned primarily for loss of property or is safety the prime consideration? Do you need a responder or is a text notification adequate? Are you looking for protection from trespassers or criminals? Do you need security 24/7 or only when you're away?

[apostolakisl]

If you intend on using Insteon, then no doubt ISY is the best way to control it.  And if you have ISY, then no doubt Elk is the best security system since it is a near perfect integration. Elk is a very stable security system whose home automation is a bit dated.  With ISY, the home automation part becomes top notch.

 

Like Teken said in his novel up above, you should hard wire a new house.  I highly suggest wiring every single door and window.  Even if you don't fear a break in through an upstairs window, it is nice to know if the kids left it open. . . or even if you forgot it open.

 

What do you need to know about LED?  I use Cree and it is very good.  CR6 for all my cans and the A19 bulbs in regular sockets.  Just tried some of the 100w eq bulbs which are working well.  I use Cree Troffers at my office also . . . those are superb.

[stusviews]

If you intend on using Insteon, then no doubt ISY is the best way to control it.  And if you have ISY, then no doubt Elk is the best security system since it is a near perfect integration.

 

 I fully agree. But security should be considered on it's own merits. Need overwhelms convenience. Elk is the best solution--if it meets (or exceeds) your specific need.

 

Even if you don't fear a break in through an upstairs window, it is nice to know if the kids left it open. . . or even if you forgot it open.

 

Insteon devices are great for notifications. A security system is not needed nor is Insteon meant to be a security system. Insteon is a nice addition to a security system.

 

BTW, cat burglars only enter above the ground level (e.g., upstairs). More difficult to accomplish, but less chance of detection

[Teken]

Some quick follow up regarding security and their applications. All security systems come with a factory installer code. Ensure this installer code is changed after the install and is different then what is being used for the master, user, guests.

 

Insure exit / entry times are set appropriately and do not exceed cUL / UL standards. Always use and apply cross boundary zoning but never use them for areas where a breach can occur.

 

As was stated up top always follow the basic and manufactures guidelines for sensor installation and testing. Meaning do not install PIR sensors in front of heat / AC ducts.

 

Always have the zones in the alarm panel set for chime when open / closed. This basic setting allows you to know on a daily basis if a zone has been open / closed. If you live in extreme climates always (visually) confirm the door gaps and check with the installer how much distance it requires for the magnetic sensor to break / make contact.

 

Many people are surprised to find out a window / door can be open 3-4 inches before the sensor shows a open state! This is why the proper magnetic sensors or placement of said sensors impact the reliability, consistency, and the speed in which a breach is detected.

 

The alarm panel should always be secured using both screws and a key set. 99% of the installers and companies simply place a few short screws to lock the panel, no!

 

The panel door should always be wired for a tamper monitoring.

 

The most important thing to always follow is the current load and the wire length run (maximum) allowed. Each maker states the maximum wire run and the allowable voltage drop in the system. Failure to follow this basic requirement will cause erratic and unreliable operation.

 

Always upgrade the battery for all the systems in place as the industry standard of 7Ah is simply too small! When deciding upon using a siren vs speaker it comes down to use case and preferences. In all cases an external siren should be installed high up in the attached garage.

 

This ensures the furthest sound penetration and distance when an emergency event is happening. Each city, county, state has laws / ordinances with respect to the maximum cycle time or duration a alarm system can sound out. I would highly encourage you to set each event to the maximum allowable time / duration.

 

Many are set to 2-4 minutes and cycle 2-3 times and thats it.

 

Always consider a dedicated strobe light mounted high up and placed on the front and rear of the house. All the noise in the world isn't going to help you if noone knows where its coming from. Most insurance companies provide a nice discount for alarms being monitored.

 

Many of them also provide a tiered insurance rate which if you can prove you're less (Risk) they will offer you a nice decrease. This can come in the form of a reduced yearly insurance fee. To reducing your deductible from a few dollars to zero! But in all cases ensure you reach out to your insurance company and ask what saving you are eligible for.

 

Asking is free . . .

 

If it was not mentioned before regardless of how fort knox your home is. You must have the correct and proper amount of insurance coverage that will cover and replace your home, possessions, and out of pocket expenses. Have a professional come down and review what your current home has and what needs are required to make you whole.

 

Always read the fine print about what is required for a break in, theft, vandalism. Many insurance co's have this stupid clause where it says the break in must happen in the front door??

 

WTF???

 

Don't believe me look it up . . .

[AngelArs]

As far as LED bulbs go, the CREE bulbs which are sold at Home Depot and online work very well with all the Insteon devices.

 

Make sure they are the new 4Flow design. The older design was good, but these new Cree's are incredible (and cost even less). 

[apostolakisl]

 I fully agree. But security should be considered on it's own merits. Need overwhelms convenience. Elk is the best solution--if it meets (or exceeds) your specific need.

 

 

Insteon devices are great for notifications. A security system is not needed nor is Insteon meant to be a security system. Insteon is a nice addition to a security system.

 

BTW, cat burglars only enter above the ground level (e.g., upstairs). More difficult to accomplish, but less chance of detection

 

I'm sensing you know very little about Elk panels.  Should a home owner's security needs exceed those of an Elk, then indeed they have a very unusual situation and would never be seeking advice on a forum such as this.  The only problem a homeowner could reasonably have with Elk is aesthetics, and of course that it is overkill and thus overpriced for their needs.

 

Who said anything about Insteon being for security?  But please be aware, an Elk security panel is vastly more reliable than Insteon for notifications.  Insteon has a very real communication failure rate, Elk (and most true security panels) are going to have a communication failure rate that is orders of magnitude smaller.  I would NEVER rely on Insteon for anything truly important.  Insteon is best suited for fun and convenience.