diggler Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Has anyone hard wired this rather than using batteries. I have successfully done this with my halloween decorations. Gonna attempt to do it with the door sensors. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWareman Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I did with the basement in my old house. Door sensors were hard wired to my Elk M1 - then the Elk reported to the ISY. Worked well for both security and automation needs. Native Insteon, you'll need to wire each sensor to an IOLink or EZIO device (http://smartenit.com/product/ezio2x4) and a side effect is I wouldn't use it for security needs, if any. I'm sure this would work well though! Edit: now I see your meaning hard wiring power to the battery sensors. Sorry - never done that.... Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hadje Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I'm currently working on finding a good solution for powering my low voltage devices without batteries or running deca-yards of bell wire through my walls. I've ordered several potential solutions, and will be sure to post a solution if I find one that meets code, is safe and isn't too expensive per drop point. The basic approach is to find a quality 120 -> (12v to 3v) circuit board, enclose it in a thick heat-shrink tubing and connect it to mains in a electrical junction box (with code advice from my commercial-licensed electrician buddy and beer.) That would let me run power over from either a light fixture, wall outlet or switch that is near the final sensor location. The idea of running low voltage wire from a central location all around my three story large house is not appealing, but I don't want to cause a hazard either. So the transformer/converters I'm looking at need: Safety Features: 1) Output over voltage protection 2) Short circuit protection 3) Temperature protection 4) Overcurrent protection I've ordered a few from a couple of sources, and plan to check them out for voltage ripple (if I can talk someone with a scope to help me out), efficiency (heat buildup in an enclosed situation at max power) and general safety (separation of high and low voltage elements on the board.) If I get it figured out I'll post a how-to for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 You may also want to test for noise and signal absorption on the AC power feed. Some switchers can be noise makers or have a input filter that is not Insteon or X10 power line communications friendly. Shrink tubing over the power supply assembly or in an enclosed electrical box. Will cut down on the air flow to keep it cool. You may have to derate the total current it can supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 The door sensor uses a single dry cell, 1.5VDC. There is no code restriction on running low voltage wiring other than ensuring that it's not located where it may come in contact with line voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggler Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 Figured that. Ive bought appropriate transformer and have done it with the decorations and infant swing Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I'm currently working on finding a good solution for powering my low voltage devices without batteries or running deca-yards of bell wire through my walls. I've ordered several potential solutions, and will be sure to post a solution if I find one that meets code, is safe and isn't too expensive per drop point. The basic approach is to find a quality 120 -> (12v to 3v) circuit board, enclose it in a thick heat-shrink tubing and connect it to mains in a electrical junction box (with code advice from my commercial-licensed electrician buddy and beer.) That would let me run power over from either a light fixture, wall outlet or switch that is near the final sensor location. The idea of running low voltage wire from a central location all around my three story large house is not appealing, but I don't want to cause a hazard either. So the transformer/converters I'm looking at need: Safety Features: 1) Output over voltage protection 2) Short circuit protection 3) Temperature protection 4) Overcurrent protection I've ordered a few from a couple of sources, and plan to check them out for voltage ripple (if I can talk someone with a scope to help me out), efficiency (heat buildup in an enclosed situation at max power) and general safety (separation of high and low voltage elements on the board.) If I get it figured out I'll post a how-to for sure. The USB outlet available everywhere may be the closest thing to what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggler Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 If the usb outlet.provide correct amp and volts thats a home run. Gonna research that Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 USB devices run on 5VDC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 If the usb outlet.provide correct amp and volts thats a home run. Gonna research that Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Better and later USB outlets supply about 5.25 volts at up to about 2.0 amperes. Some manufacturers of these power supplies try to compensate for the voltage drop in the fine wires found in the cords and micro-USB connector resistance with the heavy currents that now exceed the old 500mA max standard. RPi will run directly on this as will many other newer devices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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