Thinking about getting a whole house surge protector

[westom]

There is no electronic protection available for direct lightning strike.  Lightning rods are installed to prevent fire and whole house surge can't react in time.  The only defense to a direct strike is unplugging all devices from outlets during heavy storms.

 

So your telco disconnects all phone service before each thunderstorm?  Why do 100 incoming surges with each storm not damage their $multi-million computer?   Proven protection from direct lightning strikes existed even 100 years ago.  Informed homeowners learn why that one 'whole house' protector is rated 50,000 amps (or larger).  It must even earth direct lightning strikes without damage.

 

Surges are a microsecond event.  'Whole house' protectors respond in nanoseconds.  Again, numbers that expose another subjective claim.

 

Also key is wire length to earth ground.  His Type 1 and Type 2 protectors are 'whole house' protectors.  If connected low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth, then direct lightning strikes would cause no damage.

 

His Type 3 and 4 protectors have no earth ground.  Those protectors are why so many believe nothing can protect from lightning and other typically destructive surges.  Those inferior protectors typically cost more and are provided by manufacturers such as APC, Belkin, Monster, Tripplite, and Panamax.

 

A reference to a 1/2" conductor is vague.  For most homes, earthing required by code (ground rods, 6 AWG wire, etc) can be installed to easily and safely earth direct lightning strikes.  That 'secondary' protection layer in conjunction with the 'primary' protection layer should be more than sufficient protection for most homes.  But that means learning some basic electrical concepts that, for example, Teken clearly refuses to learn.  Apparently he cannot unlearn lies he was first told.

 

Electronics atop the Empire State Building would suffer 23 direct strikes annually without damage. Such protection is routine all over the world.  But not where one refuses to learn basic electrical concepts such as wire impedance.

 

The AT&T forum in post 22 http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16803-thinking-about-getting-a-whole-house-surge-protector/page-2?do=findComment&comment=148940  could not make this any layman simpler. Direct quotes he ignored in the IEEE brochure and provided in post 28 http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16803-thinking-about-getting-a-whole-house-surge-protector/page-2?do=findComment&comment=148974  also demonstrate what must always exist to have direct strikes without damage.   Examples of fire and other damage demonstrated when foolishly only using plug-in protectors with near zero joules ratings.

 

Direct strikes without damage are so routine that damage is often blamed on a human mistake. Why is a 'whole house' protector at least 50,000 amps?  So that lightning (typically 20,000 amps) does not even damage a protector.  Always amazing how the first myth told, hearsay, subjective text in advertising, and wild speculation has greater credibility than an engineer who posts numbers, professional citations, and did this stuff for decades.

 

How often is your town without phone service for four days after every thunderstorm?  Disconnecting is a least effective solution.  How many times a year do you disconnect the refrigerator, all clocks, the furnace, stove, bathroom and kitchen GFCIs, central air. all CFL and LED bulbs, smoke detectors, etc?  Never?  So why are they not damaged?

 

Destructive surges are rare due to superior protection already inside each appliance.  A 'whole house' protector makes that rare and destructive surge (ie lightning, linemen error, rodent induced surge) further irrelevant. 

 

This stuff is really quite simple once we eliminate wild accusations and urban myths by including numbers.

[westom]

Westom, Is the proposal in fact to install a new grounding rod, new binding, and a type 1 SPD?  Which whole house item specifically?  what "earthing" solution do you propose?

A request to learn abut the 'art' of protection rather than denial and accusations.

 

A utility demonstrates good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions:

http://www.duke-energy.com/indiana-business/products/power-quality/tech-tip-08.asp

 

A 'whole house' protector must be at least 50,000 amps.  it must make a low impedance connection to this single point earth ground (ie 'less than 10 feet, not inside metallic conduit, no sharp wire bends, no splices,  separated from other non-grounding wires, etc).

 

Also the 'installed for free' protection for phones, cable, and satellite dish must also make that low impedance connection to the same earth ground.  Since protection is always about earthing a surge BEFORE it can enter a building.

 

Manufacturers of proven 'whole house' protectors include (and are not limited to) names well known for their integrity - including GE, ABB, Polyphaser, Ditek, Keison, Novaris, Square D, Cutler-Hammer, Syscom, Clipsal, AEL Group, Intermatic, Leviton, and Siemens.  These well proven solution typically costs about $1 per protected appliance.

Edited September 16, 2015 by westom

[Michel Kohanim]

Hello everyone,

 

As I mentioned in another post, this forum is about sharing ideas and providing solutions. Ad hominem and insults are not going to be tolerated. If we have reached an impasse, I would very much prefer closing this topic as it's become abundantly clear that the purpose is not to provide solutions.

 

Thank you for your consideration.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

[ScottAvery]

 

A utility demonstrates good, bad, and ugly (preferred, wrong, and right) solutions:

http://www.duke-energy.com/indiana-business/products/power-quality/tech-tip-08.asp

 

.

This example is about bonding, not grounding.  What is the better grounding you propose?  By code my ground is directly below the entry point of the utilities, on the other side of the wall from the main panel.  3 feet, maybe?  How do I improve it?

[westom]

This example is about bonding, not grounding.  What is the better grounding you propose?  By code my ground is directly below the entry point of the utilities, on the other side of the wall from the main panel.  3 feet, maybe?  How do I improve it?

A 'whole house' protector mounted in the breaker box must make a low impedance connection to an outside earth ground.  It uses a same earth ground electrode also required by code for human safety.  Follow that bare copper quarter inch wire from breaker box to earthing electrodes.  If it goes up over the foundation and down to earth, then protection is compromised.  That wire is unnecessarily long, has sharp bends over the foundation, and is bundled with other non-grounding wires.

 

Low impedance means that same wire goes through the foundation and down to earthing electrodes.  That shorter distance and no sharp bends seriously reduces impedance - increases protection.

 

As noted earlier, all other incoming utilities must make a low impedance connection to the same earthing at the service entrance.  Even a TV antenna wire must be routed to enter and earth there before entering.

 

Bonding is about connecting various internal devices together for human safety.  For example, water pipes and metal bathtub must be bonded to the same safety ground that connects to all receptacle safety grounds.   That is a ground bus in the main breaker box so that an electrical fault will trip a circuit breaker.

 

Earth ground connection for surges may share some conductors also used in bonding.  But earth ground must address something that bonding does not - low impedance.  Bonding is concerned with low resistance - a completely different parameter.

 

Numbers: a long wire (ie 50 feet) may have a low resistance and high impedance.  IOW it may be less than 0.2 ohms resistance and 120 ohms impedance.  Sufficient for bonding for human safety.  And woefully insufficient for earthing a surge - transistor safety.

 

This is the 'art' of protection.

[Teken]

This example is about bonding, not grounding.  What is the better grounding you propose?  By code my ground is directly below the entry point of the utilities, on the other side of the wall from the main panel.  3 feet, maybe?  How do I improve it?

 

As I explained several times which is also bolstered in the link by Westom. It affirms what everyone knows and generaly speaking is already done. Proper grounding includes many factors which I have expressed above.

 

- They are short and direct path to Earth ground.

- Low resistance: Which is impacted by the type of soil, wire diameter, length, and the amount of area.

 

Regardless of the above as humans learned more about electricity and (ohms law) they also realized there are many instances that Earth grounding would not be present or available.

 

This is why different applications & techniques have been used which I have illustrated above. When grounding does not address other electrical injection paths other solutions must be used.

 

- Shielding

- Isolation

- Floating ground

- Material displacement

 

Grounding will not protect any electronic device from high voltage induction or EMP. In industry where devices must be protected from such electrical events a combination of the above is used.

 

Opto isolators have long been used in alarm system dialers. This has been used because it absolutlely isolates the device from any injection of voltage from the telco line. With the advent of fiber optic (Think VOIP) communications old POTS copper lines have slowly been replaced. Which for the end user is a plus because it avoids the secondary method of high voltage from entering the building.

 

Besides optical isolation years of proven field trials have shown in every industry from Hospital, Military, etc. Have used 1 to 1 transformers to isolate equipment and users from the line voltage. These industries use isolation transformers for several reasons which are: Consistent voltage, Isolation, and Safety.

 

Its fair to say as stated way above in my air plane example: There is no Earth ground . . .

 

As stated this is where a combination of techniques such a *Isolation* is the primary method. A standard plane is made of aluminum and the shell by default acts like a Faraday cage. Should the plane be struck by lightning it will enter one area and exit the other. Even with this basic premis and solution in place its STILL not enough to protect the plane.

 

Why?!?!?

 

As was mentioned again even a Faraday cage will not protect something electronic against high voltage induction or EMP. This is why *Shielding* is employed whether it be mesh, grid, solid, plates. Even with that it is still not enough and *Floating Grounds* are employed to bring the voltage potential to the same level which is (isolated) from the rest of the hull of the plane.

 

As a last measure material displacement or highly spec'd components with large tolerances are installed. As many of you can relate the military has extremely high standards to meet both induction and EMP.

 

Using scatter cell technology to help reduce weight envision something that is lead lined. But is made in a mesh style which they have tested would offer similar shielding. Obviously where ever solid lining is required its used but this is for illustration purposes to drive the point.

 

As another member indicated all the grounding in the world will not protec a home from a direct strike. Given a normal house is not made like a plane what do people believe will happen if lightning was to strike a standard shingled roof??

 

Now take the same example what happens if a big boomer zaps over your home but does not strike the house? All of us have seen or experienced where you saw a flash of lightning and the next the lights went out.

 

Why??

 

Sometimes the lightning does strike something in the POCO which trips many systems. Sometimes it doesn't strike anything but the massive induced voltage acts the same way as if it struck directly. Which has exactly the same outcome which is voltage was induced into the wiring.

 

So, if tens of millions of dollars are spent to ensure the electrical supply chain is well grounded. Why then did the Earth grounding not protect agains't such a problem???

 

Because grounding is only part of the solution as is using a layered approach which is clearly stated by the IEEE, NIST, etc. I simply have to shake my head in disbelief when I read others reply that a person in a standard home has any method to change his environment which depending upon location has any means to.

 

People are going to randomly pull ground rods out of the ground? Will they measure that its below 25 ohms? Will they have any method to correct the #6 copper is not bent, sharp turns, etc?

 

If Joe Average lives in one of the driest places on the planet and it barely rains and his soil is dry. Is he going to water the ground to insure 25 ohms is present??

 

This is why human's came up with alternatives and solutions . . .

 

Should we all take a step back and assume Westom is 100% correct that a solid Earth ground be present. How is Gods green Earth will it protect a standard wooden house with shingles should it be struck by lightning?

 

Will the ground stop the fire raging in the roof / attic?

 

As another member stated if a lightning rod was present it could offer a chance because it would be grounded to Earth. This assumes the ball of lightning wants to play ball and go to the lightning rod.

 

I would like to think when I reply with comments they are well thought out. That the way I communicate makes sense that the average person can fullly understand what is being said.

 

Ultimately its to offer insight and guidance as to how best to solve a problem . . .

 

To summarily recite information that doesn't address other factors when presented simply makes no sense. People in industry from police, EMS, Hospital, Military, Banks, Financial, haven't been using all of the above as alternate solutions for fun . . .

 

This is not *art* of protection this is science and years of field proven trials and use that affirm its a system that are tied integral to one another.

 

If diameter of wiring was not important why bother calling out a minimum of #6 copper wire? Why can't it be short, straight, and be as thin as my hair???

 

Oh . . .

 

Because my thin copper hair can't carry enough what, current! If resistance doesn't matter and impedence does what exactly is going to happen when the Earth ground shows 1 kilo ohm?

 

Will the lightning summarily pass through that wire or will it find the path of least resistance?!?!?

 

Finally, if Earth grounding is the ultimate player in all of this why bother installing a SPD??? Isn't Earth grounding that moves 9999999999999 volts from the Gods supposed to magically go to ground when intercepted by a short, straight, #6 copper ground??

 

No . . .

 

My home, nor is anyone elses built or designed like a cell tower, or super structure that has nothing but metal and a massive grounding system in place.

 

To compare the two is absurd, to expect a person to have any impact on the material design unless considered before hand is also. Ufer grounding has been tried and tested for a reason.

 

Nothing beats area displacement when coupled to proper bonding of the single point ground, nothing. 

Edited September 16, 2015 by Teken

[jerlands]

 

Nothing beats area displacement when coupled to proper bonding of the single point ground, nothing. 

 

I haven't heard any discussion on ground potential rise?  Also, in the US two grounding rods are required (bonded of course.)

 

Jon...

[larryllix]

The resounding emphasis of this discussion is ground.. there just isn't enough of it in a 1/2" conductor..

 

Jon...

My comments were exactly that, about how to use grounding effectively for Direct lightning strikes since you raised it.

 

Even a #12 AWG is good enough for a lightning rod. It only has to carry milliamperes or maybe even microamperes. #6 AWG as ammonium spec in electrical safety codes is mostly about physical prowess of the conductor.

 

We frequently had to stop the HV electricians  from running ground wires down metal towers and passing through the iron structure holes in order  to avoid drilling and using one hole clamps on the conductors. Lightning results in pulsating high frequency bursts that will not pass to ground through a ferrous hole no matter how big the copper conductor is. Hard concept to explain to a HV electrician and we took a lot of flack for it.

[Teken]

I haven't heard any discussion on ground potential rise?  Also, in the US two grounding rods are required (bonded of course.)

 

Jon...

 

Yes, in some places they are spaced say 5-6 feet apart but they are tied together. Ignoring to tie them together can cause ground loops and voltage difference.

 

Above I have touched upon how ground soil conditions play a huge role in the resistance. At the heart of the matter before everyone gets lost in the back and forth is this.

 

- A properly single point, low resistance, short ground path is required.

- The use of a layered approach will offer more protection and fail over.

- No house can sustain a direct strike from God and not catch fire.

- The only thing that will make you whole is good comprehensive home insurance.

- There are tried and true methods to bolster your chances of surviving a electrical surge event as detailed above.

 

- No Teken does not get paid for sharing this information and isn't paid by APC, Leviton, Eaton, Tripp Lite, Syscom, etc

[jerlands]

We frequently had to stop the HV electricians  from running ground wires down metal towers and passing through the iron structure holes in order  to avoid drilling and using one hole clamps on the conductors. Lightning results in pulsating high frequency bursts that will not pass to ground through a ferrous hole no matter how big the copper conductor is. Hard concept to explain to a HV electrician and we took a lot of flack for it.

 

How's that? CEMF?

 

Jon...

[Teken]

There is no CEMF with respect to lightning. CEMF is the result of a collapsing magnetic field induced on to the other coil or device.

 

 

Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

[jerlands]

There is no CEMF with respect to lightning. CEMF is the result of a collapsing magnetic field induced on to the other coil or device.

 

 

Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

 

I was asking Larry about the cable through the iron hole thing.. the iron hole acting as a stator?

 

Jon..

 

edit.. ferrous... and not stator   coil...

Edited September 16, 2015 by jerlands

[larryllix]

How's that? CEMF?

 

Jon...

Ferrorus hole = choke.  Lots of inductance to MHz ringing found in lightning discharges.

 

 

Edit:I guess counterEMF would be the effect that is the result of the inductance to a high-freq current attempting pass through. CounterEMF would be counter to the voltage and cause no current to pass. 

Edited September 16, 2015 by larryllix

[jerlands]

Ferrorus hole = choke.  Lots of inductance to MHz ringing found in lightning discharges.

 

 

Edit:I guess counterEMF would be the effect that is the result of the inductance to a high-freq current attempting pass through. CounterEMF would be counter to the voltage and cause no current to pass. 

 

The things you can learn

 

 

Jon...

[larryllix]

Years back we had continual problems with a tapchanger control relay always getting hit by lightning surges and burning out the input sensing transistors. I replace the darn things in the middle of the night too many times over 15 years and finally the utility I worked for contacted the defunct manufacturer of the equipment.

 

He explained some things I didn't know before. He sent us a few home-made looking boards with a large MOV and a few paralleled disc capacitors in series  with the MOVS. The explanation was that lightning disturbances consist of many short bursts of high frequency spikes that ring and fade away. Frequency ranges and very technical details were supplied which I confirmed with other sources available back in the 80s.

 

If a MOV was connected in parallel across the sensing input, to protect it, in a transformer station environment, the MOVs usually take the lightning effect out and save the equipment, but the grid supplied power surges that follow the disturbance would cause the MOVs to explode, as they do sometimes.

 

Adding disc capacitors in series with a MOV provides the same path to high frequency disturbances and yet presents a high impedance to the grid power frequency that was stated to cause the damage.

 

In short, I installed these boards on the 14kV PT secondaries 1983ish?  and the problem has never occurred until I retired in 2008. There was some interesting lessons I learned in that one.

Edited September 16, 2015 by larryllix

[jerlands]

Years back we had continual problems with a tapchanger control relay always getting hit by lightning surges and burning out the input sensing transistors. I replace the darn things in the middle of the night too many times over 15 years and finally the utility I worked for contacted the defunct manufacturer of the equipment.

 

He explained some things I didn't know before. He sent us a few home-made looking boards with a large MOV and a few paralleled disc capacitors in series  with the MOVS. The explanation was that lightning disturbances consist of many short bursts of high frequency spikes that ring and fade away. Frequency ranges and very technical details were supplied which I confirmed with other sources available back in the 80s.

 

If a MOV was connected in parallel across the sensing input, to protect it, in a transformer station environment, the MOVs usually take the lightning effect out and save the equipment, but the grid supplied power surges that follow the disturbance would cause the MOVs to explode, as they do sometimes.

 

Adding disc capacitors in series with a MOV provides the same path to high frequency disturbances and yet presents a high impedance to the grid power frequency that was stated to cause the damage.

 

In short, I installed these boards on the 14kV PT secondaries 1983ish?  and the problem has never occurred until I retired in 2008. There was some interesting lessons I learned in that one.

 

The overall effect of a direct lightning striking with all this energy ringing in the air seems hard to suppress..  edit in regards to electronics

 

Jon...

Edited September 16, 2015 by jerlands

[MWareman]

A buddy of mine (who I work with) professionally used to do lightning protection for broadcast towers (among other radio work). It takes substantial effort to do grounding properly to protect a direct lightning strike, without causing yourself significant issues if you have a nearby strike.

 

The main issue is cross-bonding multiple ground points and the requirement that you actually have multiple ground points (to more effectively dissipate a direct strike). It must be done well because a nearby strike can cause 1000's of volts potential in the soil over a fairly short distance. That will cause current flow in your ground bonding possibly into the thousands of amps (depending on their relative location to the location of the nearby strike) - and it has to be able to tolerate it because - if it fails that potential difference will flow back thru the weakest link - your appliances on weaker (by comparison) protection. It's an inexact science - but there is a science to it.

 

For most homeowners though - there is no easy way to fully protect against a direct strike. Me - I have a whole house surge wired to my panel - and a 10 guage earth bonded to my main ground rod. I also have many plug in surge protectors. I also have a module surge protector on my CAT6 cables (as they come back from different locations around the house) as well as my coax cables (like the cat6 - returning from all over the house). This is also bonded directly to the main electrical ground rod.

 

We've experienced several nearby strikes now - and not one device lost. I consider that a success.

 

In my old house I had a whole house protector - but the ground was not as good. Mostly, we were OK - but we did have two nearby events that caused significant damage. One placed a surge onto my cat6 - and took out my switch, several computers and my TV tuners. The other my air conditioner compressor. I vowed that I would do all that was reasonable to minimize the risk of that happening again.

 

To the OP. Definitely get a whole house protector installed directly into you main panel (and secondary ones on secondary panels). However - also invest in a stout ground from these to the main electrical ground and ensure that the ground is sufficient. Don't rely on house wiring for the ground!

[jerlands]

To the OP. Definitely get a whole house protector installed directly into you main panel (and secondary ones on secondary panels). However - also invest in a stout ground from these to the main electrical ground and ensure that the ground is sufficient. Don't rely on house wiring for the ground!

 

I like what I hear about layering.. Type 1 at the meter, Type 2 at the panel and Type 3 at all outlets.. still... I don't see good protection from direct strikes.

 

 

Jon...

[MWareman]

Direct strike protection really takes lightning rods, copper ribbons on the outside of your house and multiple ground bond points dedicated to the task all isolated from your electrical ground which needs to float on a single ground bonded point. The lightning grounds need to be some distance from the property and aggressively bonded together. It can be done - but it doesn't look pretty!

 

You still need surge protection on the electrical system as well - multiple tiers.

 

Also, good luck trying you use a cell phone within the Faraday cage you now live in! (tongue in cheek here...)

Edited September 16, 2015 by MWareman

[westom]

I like what I hear about layering.. Type 1 at the meter, Type 2 at the panel and Type 3 at all outlets.. still... I don't see good protection from direct strikes.

 

.

Type X protectors only define human safety issues.  A type 3 or type 4 is so undersized that, if too close to earth, these may become potential fires.

 

No protector does protection.  Both type 1 and type 2 are the same layer of protection - same tier - defined only by what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules.  Both are part of the same 'secondary' protection layer that, if properly installed, makes all direct lightning strikes irrelevant.  Type 3 and 4 are only part of the same tier but with an inferior connection to earth.  These are for a type of surge that is typically made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  And do nothing for destructive types of surges such as lightning.  In fact, during a lightning type surge, these type 3 and type 4 plug-in protectors can (and we demonstrated it in the resulting design review) make damage to adjacent appliances easier.

 

As larryllix mentioned, a wire passing through a ferrous metal impedes an earth ground connection because impedance increases.  A surge carried by by hardwire or a 'whole house' protector to earth, must be on a low impedance connection.  Not only as short as possible and without sharp bends. Connection also must not be inside metallic conduit or pass through ferrous metal holes.  All those increase impedance - reduce surge protection.

 

Ground potential rise was discussed previously.  Also known as equipotential.  A good earth ground means soil beneath a building rises maybe by 10,000 volts.  Meaning everything inside is also at the same 10,000 volts.  No voltage different means no current and no damage.  Equipotential is a fundamental reason why earthing must be a single point ground.  And why earthing is the 'art' of protection.  Protectors are simply connecting devices to what actually does protection.  But protectors without that earth ground get recommended only on hearsay, myths, or even by intentionally misreading an IEEE brochure. 

 

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.  Always.

 

Another also discussed what has far more energy than lightning.  A follow-through current (power from an AC utility after a surge is done) can even damage protectors.  For example, if the homeowner's 'primary' protection layer is missing or compromised, then a strike to the transformer might connect maybe 13,000 volt primary wire into a household 120/240 volt system. This is often seen as sparks spraying from a wall receptacle. A 'lightning created' short circuit exists if the 'primary' protection layer (the earth ground connection) is missing as demonstrated in pictures:

  http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

 

A properly earthed 'whole house' protector often protects from a follow-through current (if earthing is robust).  Smaller protectors might degrade.   But plug-in protectors (type 3) do absolutely nothing for this type surge (follow-through current) other than fail catastrophically.  Catastrophic failure is a first step to fire.

 

Many radio and emergency response systems were fixed only by upgrading the earth ground.  Two case studies of how this was done in Nebraska:

  http://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/pq/casestudy/nebraska.html

and in Florida:

  http://www.psihq.com/AllCopper.htm

 

In each case, damage was due to earthng mistakes (by humans).  Future damage averted by upgrading what must harmlessly absorb hundreds of thousands of joules.

 

For every type protector - a protector is only as effective as its earth ground.  Protectors never define layers of protection.  Only earth ground (what absorbs that energy) defines each protection layer. It was always that simple. Protectors are only dumb science.  Earthing is an 'art'.

[westom]

The overall effect of a direct lightning striking with all this energy ringing in the air seems hard to suppress..

You are worrying about induced transients.  A strike to a lightning rod meant maybe 20,000 amps connected to earth on that rod's hardwire. Only four feet away from that 20,000 amps transient was an IBM PC.  it did not even blink.  Because those induces fields are already made irrelevant by protection routinely found in that IBM PC - and in all other electronics in that office.

 

Plenty of engineering examples demonstrate why induced fields are easily made irrelevant.  But the above example is typically of all nearby strikes when the induced field results in near zero voltage - when a milliamp or less is conducted by protection already inside electronics.  Thousands of volts (due to that induced field) drops to near zero when standard protection conducts a milliamp or less.

 

Damage due to massive 'energy in air' is hooey mostly generated by fear, no numbers, and no technical experience.

[jerlands]

Type X protectors only define human safety issues.  A type 3 or type 4 is so undersized that, if too close to earth, these may become potential fires.

 

No protector does protection.  Both type 1 and type 2 are the same layer of protection - same tier - defined only by what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules.  Both are part of the same 'secondary' protection layer that, if properly installed, makes all direct lightning strikes irrelevant.  Type 3 and 4 are only part of the same tier but with an inferior connection to earth.  These are for a type of surge that is typically made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  And do nothing for destructive types of surges such as lightning.  In fact, during a lightning type surge, these type 3 and type 4 plug-in protectors can (and we demonstrated it in the resulting design review) make damage to adjacent appliances easier.

 

 

Well.. what do you recommend for external and internal protection?

 

 

Jon...

[westom]

Well.. what do you recommend for external and internal protection?

 

That question was answered repeatedly with specific manufacturers, numbers,  reasons why, and professionals citations that confirm those recommendations in posts 9, 11, end of post 13, 16, 18, middle of 20, 22, 28, what protectors do and do not do in 29, third paragraph and second half of 35, and post 44.

[jerlands]

 

That question was answered repeatedly with specific manufacturers, numbers,  reasons why, and professionals citations that confirm those recommendations in posts 9, 11, end of post 13, 16, 18, middle of 20, 22, 28, what protectors do and do not do in 29, third paragraph and second half of 35, and post 44.

 

 

I'm talking specific devices with manufacturer and model for line, load and point of use.. I don't see anything in any of the posts recommending any device.

 

Jon...

[jerlands]

I'm talking specific devices with manufacturer and model for line, load and point of use.. I don't see anything in any of the posts recommending any device.

 

Jon...

 

I've looked into SurgeX/Zero Power WVR (Spectrum Wide Voltage Range) technology but haven't purchased anything yet.

 

Jon...

Edited September 17, 2015 by jerlands