larryllix Posted March 24, 2016 Posted March 24, 2016 I would still use a magnetic reed switch. It requires no pressure to activate, is even cheaper yet, and has no risk of obstructing air flow either from preventing the flapper function or from a dedicated sail that could hang up on lint or something. Most of the drier vents these days are run in a flexible spiral wire bound with plastic or aluminum. A flapper mounted inside the pipe could have a small rare-earth magnet mounted on it and be detected on the outside of the pipe with a reed contact or even a GDO kit. An IOLinc would be needed, anyway, to get it the Insteon level anyway. With a gas drier it wouldn't be good to play with the CO2 venting and the pipe would be made of solid aluminum or some other more substantial metal. The magnetic flux may have trouble penetrating the solid aluminum and the gas vapours may "dissolve" the metals used in the flapper so select metals would need to be used etc..
apostolakisl Posted March 24, 2016 Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) Most of the drier vents these days are run in a flexible spiral wire bound with plastic or aluminum. A flapper mounted inside the pipe could have a small rare-earth magnet mounted on it and be detected on the outside of the pipe with a reed contact or even a GDO kit. An IOLinc would be needed, anyway, to get it the Insteon level anyway. With a gas drier it wouldn't be good to play with the CO2 venting and the pipe would be made of solid aluminum or some other more substantial metal. The magnetic flux may have trouble penetrating the solid aluminum and the gas vapours may "dissolve" the metals used in the flapper so select metals would need to be used etc.. The flapper I refer to is the standard one that is typical for wall mounted drier outlet vents on the outside of the house. I don't mean that you should add a new flapper. The one that is supposed to keep outside air from entering the drier when it is off. Attach a rare earth magnet to the flapper (epoxy should do the trick) and put the read switch below it. There would be no affect on safety at all. The only trick here is that this is all outside and you will need to poke a wire through to inside since IO lincs are not water proof. Or I suppose you could make a small water proof enclosure for an io linc and leave it all outside. like this http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Dryer-Vent-Hood-4-Aluminum-Vent-Hood-98p475.htm#.VvR2MvsrI7k Edited March 24, 2016 by apostolakisl
larryllix Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 The flapper I refer to is the standard one that is typical for wall mounted drier outlet vents on the outside of the house. I don't mean that you should add a new flapper. The one that is supposed to keep outside air from entering the drier when it is off. Attach a rare earth magnet to the flapper (epoxy should do the trick) and put the read switch below it. There would be no affect on safety at all. The only trick here is that this is all outside and you will need to poke a wire through to inside since IO lincs are not water proof. Or I suppose you could make a small water proof enclosure for an io linc and leave it all outside. like this http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Dryer-Vent-Hood-4-Aluminum-Vent-Hood-98p475.htm#.VvR2MvsrI7k That looks much better. A small housing of bent aluminum on top of the vent to conceal a sensing contact and wires leading in through a small sealed hole through the house wall would look pretty professional. If the housing was bent to look approximately the same shape as the existing vent cover it would not even be noticed. I haven't used that style of dryer vent for years. Most went to the multiflap style to prevent lint clogs. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.provent-dryer-vent-kit-with-ul-listed-duct-4-inch.1000502400.html OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. Yeah, I had big problems with that when my last house was new.
stusviews Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. ... Cool. I mean warm
apostolakisl Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 That looks much better. A small housing of bent aluminum on top of the vent to conceal a sensing contact and wires leading in through a small sealed hole through the house wall would look pretty professional. If the housing was bent to look approximately the same shape as the existing vent cover it would not even be noticed. I haven't used that style of dryer vent for years. Most went to the multiflap style to prevent lint clogs. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.provent-dryer-vent-kit-with-ul-listed-duct-4-inch.1000502400.html OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. Yeah, I had big problems with that when my last house was new. It wouldn't be any big deal to do it with that style either. The rare earth magnets are very small and light weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Earth-Magnet-Security-Alarm-Replacement-Ademco-Countersunk-Hole-Contact-DSC-/160754913222 Attach the magnet to the bottom edge of one of the three flaps and position the reed switch to the frame at the side. My bet is you could hide the reed switch inside the frame in one of the bottom corners pointing out toward the flap where you attach the magnet.
apostolakisl Posted March 26, 2016 Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) OK, very simple and cheap solution installed and functioning. 1) buy one of these for $6 http://www.lowes.com/pd_52690-85334-VTL0024___?productId=3126471&pl=1&Ntt=drier+vent+draft+blocker 2) buy an alarm system contact. I used one of these http://www.homesecuritystore.com/winn-br-1015because I already had it. The standard 3/8 probably works just as well. (EDIT: This is the exact brand/model I used http://www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/recessed_magnetic/50rs_12_series_miniature.pdf) 3) epoxy the magnet part on the flap on the downwind (CORRECTION, UPWIND) side at the halfway point (about 1/2 inch below the hinge) pointing toward the edge. 4) epoxy the reed part on the outside in line with the magnet (up against the downwind side of the flange pointing at the magnet) 5) install this contraption to the vent opening in the wall behind your drier (pointing the proper direction of course). 6) connect the hose from drier to the draft blocker 7) connect the wires from the reed switch to your io linc Total cost not including io linc about $10. Total time to install, about 20 minutes (not including waiting for glue to dry) All wires are inside Also you get the draft blocking bonus Doesn't use any non-approved drier vent parts Pearls By attaching the magnet on the flap fairly close to the hinge, it adds very little rotational force to the flapper, so it won't interfere with the proper weighting of the flap. You could put the magnet and reed at the bottom, but it would add more rotational force. The reed/magnet combo I used was a left over from when I installed my alarm and is a really small magnet and reed, but I think the standard 3/8 one would work as well. Edited March 26, 2016 by apostolakisl
larryllix Posted March 26, 2016 Posted March 26, 2016 Very nice! Sounds like the best plan so far, inside the house with the IOLinc = no wall penetration, standard parts =very little fabrication for those not so inclined, minimal interference with existing function, and no electrical warranty voiding or electrical safety hazards. Bravo Apostolakisl ! Note: Plastic venting parts may not be approved for gas appliances (I see no mention of restrictions even on lowes.ca) but gas dryers can just take a SynchroLinc plug-in for their 120vac requirements.
apostolakisl Posted March 26, 2016 Posted March 26, 2016 Very nice! Sounds like the best plan so far, inside the house with the IOLinc = no wall penetration, standard parts =very little fabrication for those not so inclined, minimal interference with existing function, and no electrical warranty voiding or electrical safety hazards. Bravo Apostolakisl ! Note: Plastic venting parts may not be approved for gas appliances (I see no mention of restrictions even on lowes.ca) but gas dryers can just take a SynchroLinc plug-in for their 120vac requirements. The packaging says nothing about gas/electric driers. But as you mentioned, the point is moot since you would just use the synchrolinc on a gas drier.
apostolakisl Posted March 26, 2016 Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) You tube links. Edited March 26, 2016 by apostolakisl
MWoods329 Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 Hi all, I use the SyncroLinc to monitor my washer, but my dryer has the large 240 plug. Is there anything I can use to do the same thing with the dryer? Thanks all! I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Smart-Switch-ZW078--Aeotec/dp/B0151YXM2W/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1460224962&sr=8-20&keywords=z-wave+aeotec Installed it inline after the breaker. I have an ISY program that monitors voltage and amperage being used to tell me via Prowl when the dryer cycle is complete.
larryllix Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Smart-Switch-ZW078--Aeotec/dp/B0151YXM2W/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1460224962&sr=8-20&keywords=z-wave+aeotec Installed it inline after the breaker. I have an ISY program that monitors voltage and amperage being used to tell me via Prowl when the dryer cycle is complete. Did you mount it in a plastic box or how did you protect the wiring to follow safety codes? I assume that zWave would not communiucate from insdie a metal enclosure.
MWoods329 Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 Did you mount it in a plastic box or how did you protect the wiring to follow safety codes? I assume that zWave would not communiucate from insdie a metal enclosure. There was an empty plastic enclosure directly below the breaker panel when I moved in.The previous owners had a security system monitoring device there and took it with them when they moved out. Actually, I wasn't aware of that code...
larryllix Posted April 9, 2016 Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) There was an empty plastic enclosure directly below the breaker panel when I moved in. The previous owners had a security system monitoring device there and took it with them when they moved out. Actually, I wasn't aware of that code... Nice! I have no ZWave. I was wondering if you just hung it off the wires. That may be dangerous to have unprotected wiring to suit the environment. The advertisiment dooesn't show the wiring connection style. Edited April 9, 2016 by larryllix
MWoods329 Posted April 10, 2016 Posted April 10, 2016 Nice! I have no ZWave. I was wondering if you just hung it off the wires. That may be dangerous to have unprotected wiring to suit the environment. The advertisiment dooesn't show the wiring connection style. The box show is actually an outer shell. The front is a cover that is screwed on. The wires run inside of that and are screwed in place to clamps. Check out the instructions: http://www.homecontrols.com/AEDSC10ZWUS_Instructions.pdf I got z-wave just for this but ended up really getting into locks and such. This alone was worth it. If you study the usage of your dryer enough you can set up programs for the different dryer operations and let yourself know when it's almost done and when it is actually done. Also, it saves a bit on the electric usage because we have the unit completely switch off the line running to the dryer once the machine is done. And it only turns on after the next load of wash is done. I also have the synchrolinc on the washer. Good choice.
larryllix Posted April 10, 2016 Posted April 10, 2016 The box show is actually an outer shell. The front is a cover that is screwed on. The wires run inside of that and are screwed in place to clamps. Check out the instructions: http://www.homecontrols.com/AEDSC10ZWUS_Instructions.pdf I got z-wave just for this but ended up really getting into locks and such. This alone was worth it. If you study the usage of your dryer enough you can set up programs for the different dryer operations and let yourself know when it's almost done and when it is actually done. Also, it saves a bit on the electric usage because we have the unit completely switch off the line running to the dryer once the machine is done. And it only turns on after the next load of wash is done. I also have the synchrolinc on the washer. Good choice. Nothing mentioned like that in the instructions. But they do mention a large (5HP) motor rating, unlike the nameplate. SH did a lot of that, put out heavy-duty switches that couldn't switch a motor load like a dryer.
apostolakisl Posted April 10, 2016 Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Just finished linking my contraption to ISY. I decided to use a CAI webcontrol board because I had one that I wasn't using. It works great. START TSTNE IP8 RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET That is the code. I used IP8 because it is next to the 5v output on the ISY connector and I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/201490541284?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITDupont connectors to terminate wires and a double one like that plugs in catching the 5v and IP8. URL1 sends a REST command to ISY setting a state variable which triggers an ISY program. EDIT: Changed the code because the drier has a wrinkle prevention fluff that lasts about 12 seconds. So I added a 15 second (15000 ms) non-blocking delay. Now if I could figure out how to get the washer to have a simple open/close circuit for the webcontrol to monitor, then I could kill two birds with 1 stone. START SET VAR1 IP8 TSTNE VAR1[15000] RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET Edited April 11, 2016 by apostolakisl
apostolakisl Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 You tube links. Just thought I would update on this. I have had this working for about 6 months now and it is proving to be a success.
G W Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I tapped into the door lock on the washing machine. Best regards, Gary Funk
Teken Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I love the KISS method of this solution. Thanks for the long term follow up! It's safe to say not a lot of folks take the time to do so! Pretty awesome pausom! ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.
larryllix Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 Just thought I would update on this. I have had this working for about 6 months now and it is proving to be a success.That's probably the best method for 240v dryers I have heard yet. No electrical connections into the appliance. Gas dryers could be a problem using plastic in the vent line (probably not to code) but they are usually 120 vac and a SynchroLinc (as in my case) does it very simply.
apostolakisl Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 That's probably the best method for 240v dryers I have heard yet. No electrical connections into the appliance. Gas dryers could be a problem using plastic in the vent line (probably not to code) but they are usually 120 vac and a SynchroLinc (as in my case) does it very simply. That flapper is from Lowe's and if memory serves me, listed for both gas and electric. But gas is going to be 120v and you can just use a synchrolinc.
apostolakisl Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I tapped into the door lock on the washing machine. Best regards, Gary Funk This is for the drier. The washer is easy, I just plugged it into a synchrolinc and tweaked the settings until it gave the proper on/off status.
stusviews Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 This is for the drier. The washer is easy, I just plugged it into a synchrolinc and tweaked the settings until it gave the proper on/off status. Many modern washers use virtually no power when switching between cycles.
Teken Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 That would really depend upon maker and model for sure. In my case the LG Smart Washer does indeed consume various power going into the different cycles. It took a few attempts to craft programs in the ISY Series Controller to determine when alerts should be sent and next steps. Like many here I would have never guessed appliances had a energy signature or that they consumed varied amounts of power when operating. What I do is probably more complex than the average person needs to know. But that's because my goals are probably a lot more lofty than many.
apostolakisl Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) Many modern washers use virtually no power when switching between cycles. You just put a wait in the program. So if it turns back on again in less than the time allowed, the program that send the text message terminates. So, in fact, I don't get a text message the second the washer finishes, I (by I, I mean my wife) gets the text message 3 minutes later. Edited October 5, 2016 by apostolakisl
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