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Smarthome SELECT Electronic Water Shutoff Valve, 3/4-inch, 12V DC

G W

By G W
in ISY994

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Teken Advanced

Teken

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I believe lots of this comes down to how much do you want to spend. What are you willing to compromise on in terms of long term use vs reliability. Lastly, my belief is anything a person uses must continue to operate in a fail safe mode regardless of any HA integration.

 

The HA aspect simply offers alert notification, additional program logic, and a measure of fail over. 

 

Regardless of what type of hardware is in use always test, validate, and follow up.

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Scottmichaelj Advanced

Scottmichaelj

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I know this is getting a bit off topic and not even 100% certain if it would work but the Hunter Hydrawise has a valve that monitors water leaks etc. Not sure if you can retrofit this to a hose bib. Just tossing it out there.

 

https://www.hydrawise.com

 

I been looking at this for my own irrigation to replace my EZFlora and get some protection for leaks. I been looking at trying to get more info on the API.

 

Carry on and sorry to interrupt.

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apostolakisl Advanced

apostolakisl

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But why not just use a simple flow switch? No pulses. The water is flowing and it's on.

 

Best regards,

Gary Funk

 

There is this.  http://www.bonanza.com/listings/G3-4-Male-Threaded-1-30L-min-Magnetic-Type-Water-Flow-Switch-Flowmeter-DC-250V/255554134?goog_pla=1&gpid=18283950120&keyword=&goog_pla=1&pos=1o2&ad_type=pla&gclid=CjwKEAjwydK_BRDK34GenvLB61YSJACZ8da3fG9YS46Nr4D0Yg0LNFoqufg7byqa1idm9mMnPMe5ExoCQuPw_wcB

 

Brass made in China, probably not code in US.

 

I saw similar ones on amazon and there were complaints about it not be NPT and about water flow restriction.  

 

You would need an IO linc to make this thing communicate.  If it were me, I would go with a pulse counter and a CAI board.  That combo would be cheaper and you would get the added info of flow rate, even if it didn't really matter.  It would be a very simple program to write on CAI to post to a variable the current flow rate.  Every 5 seconds or so it could post a REST value to a variable showing the flow rate, in the event that the flow rate changed.  You wouldn't have it keep posting "0" every 5 seconds, only if it changed.

I know this is getting a bit off topic and not even 100% certain if it would work but the Hunter Hydrawise has a valve that monitors water leaks etc. Not sure if you can retrofit this to a hose bib. Just tossing it out there.

 

https://www.hydrawise.com

 

I been looking at this for my own irrigation to replace my EZFlora and get some protection for leaks. I been looking at trying to get more info on the API.

 

Carry on and sorry to interrupt.

 

That is what I speaking of a ways back.  If I were going to get this, I would install it on the main house feed and get the benefit of a whole house water protection.

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G W Advanced

G W

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If you use a tankless water heater you can put a synchrolinc on the water heater power supply. All the tankless models I have seen have a fan running while the burner is on which a syncrholinc would be able to monitor.

That won't work because I won't know which bathroom is in use.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

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Teken Advanced

Teken

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No I don't. I'm stopping it.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

 

Well, much success to you if you can.

 

On a more serious note I've been working with the Aquanta team to finalize their HWT controller. In your use case with this device you could literally turn off the hot water. Keeping in mind when I say turn off it simply kills the power so what ever hot water is in the tank would still be used until fully depleted.

 

To physically turn off the flow of water the device you're considering must be hot water approved. I don't recall what the criteria is to certify a piece of metal is hot water approved but there is a spec for it.

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G W Advanced

G W

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I'm pulling all the copper out of my house and putting in Pex. This will allow me to place flow sensors and shut off valves on any run I want.

 

Yes, I know exactly what I'm doing and since I don't want my house flooded I will be using all proper equipment.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

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Teken Advanced

Teken

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Posted

I'm pulling all the copper out of my house and putting in Pex. This will allow me to place flow sensors and shut off valves on any run I want.

 

Yes, I know exactly what I'm doing and since I don't want my house flooded I will be using all proper equipment.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

 

I have no doubt of your sincerity but wanted to affirm if you intend to interrupt the hot water supply to end devices please ensure that piece of hardware is certified to do so. You don't want to find out 12 months later the valve seized because the material isn't hot water approved.

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G W Advanced

G W

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I have no doubt of your sincerity but wanted to affirm if you intend to interrupt the hot water supply to end devices please ensure that piece of hardware is certified to do so. You don't want to find out 12 months later the valve seized because the material isn't hot water approved.

I'm three steps ahead of you.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

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apostolakisl Advanced

apostolakisl

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Posted

I'm pulling all the copper out of my house and putting in Pex. This will allow me to place flow sensors and shut off valves on any run I want.

 

Yes, I know exactly what I'm doing and since I don't want my house flooded I will be using all proper equipment.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

 

I have to wonder why you would remove copper lines?  Pex isn't better than copper, it is just cheaper, both for the materials and for the installation, so it pretty much has taken over new construction.  But if your copper is already paid for and installed, I don't know why you would switch it out.  Are you tearing out walls and and have to move the plumbing?

 

I'm sure you are annoyed by your kids wasting hot water, but I'm also thinking that putting a shut off valve to each bathroom is going to cost way more than any savings on your hot water bill.  The cheapest valves I have seen are the ones SH sells for $100/ea and you still need a flow monitor and an interface to get that signal to ISY. . . .probably another $100.  So $200 per shower times however many showers.  I only spend $500 on propane for my entire family of 5 every 2 or 3 years (usually buy about 300 gallons at about $1.75/gal).

 

Any valve for residential use will be rated for hot water use.  The flow switch . .. who knows, each one will have its own deal.

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G W Advanced

G W

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Pex is way better than copper. It eliminates all T-junctioms and elbows; thus increasing water flow and pressure.

 

I have a ranch style house with an open basement. Since I'm building out the basement I'm adding Pex as new plumbing and at the same time replacing all the copper. I do not have to open any walls.

 

Cost of water and gas is not an issue. I'll use an Arduino to communicate with the ISY.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

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Teken Advanced

Teken

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Another benefit depending upon material type is higher burst strength.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

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G W Advanced

G W

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Another benefit depending upon material type is higher burst strength.

Yes. Pex can handle freezing where copper can't. Also, copper joints tend to start failing after about 50 years. Pex is all single piece runs.

 

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

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apostolakisl Advanced

apostolakisl

Posted
Posted

Pex is way better than copper. It eliminates all T-junctioms and elbows; thus increasing water flow and pressure.

 

I have a ranch style house with an open basement. Since I'm building out the basement I'm adding Pex as new plumbing and at the same time replacing all the copper. I do not have to open any walls.

 

Cost of water and gas is not an issue. I'll use an Arduino to communicate with the ISY.

 

Short and to the point.

Best regards,

Gary Funk

 

Not sure how it gets rid of T's since those are for turning 1 line into 2.  It does reduce the number of elbows, but the turn radius on pex still requires the use of elbows in a lot of locations..  It is my opinion that the crimping on of fittings in pex is less secure than copper.  I have never had a solderd fitting come apart, I did have a pex fitting come apart in a wall in my house.  The metal band snapped, for reasons I can not explain.  Fortunately I had a water sensor pick that up and it kept the damage to a bare minimum.  

 

I have had pin hole leaks in copper.  I have never had that in pex.

 

If burst pressure is an issue, God help you.  Both copper and pex will never come close to bursting at 60psi, so something would be very very wrong if you are having to worry about that.

 

Personally, I love pex, mostly because it is good stuff and is cheaper, but if cost were no concern, I would have put copper in my house.

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