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replaced plm


jwarner964

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Hi All

 

After more than 3 years my PLM failed, smarthome replaced it for free. I installed the new one, following the instructions in this forum.

All went fine except I have one device that won't rewrite. its a switchlinc dimmer turning on some lights in my kitchen the switch is not connected to a load I've tried many times still not rewriting. what do I do next ? 

 

Thanks

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Remove the errant device. Power it using an extension cord cut in half (an excellent Insteon tool). A 2-wire extension cord is adequate. The so=ide with a rib is the neutral, the smooth side is line.

 

Back to the topic. Plug the extension cord into the PLM pass-through outlet. Try restoring the device. If all goes well, then the device is OK. Re-install the device in the original location. try Write Updates to Device. If you have difficulty, then you have a communication problem, otherwise all is OK.

 

Post back in either case.

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I had a similar problem when I purchased a "refurbished" PLM from the 'gitgo' when I moved up to an ISY. It failed pretty quickly, an old model with original capacitors inside. Anyway, I did a lot of research online and was pretty prepared to replace the PLM as there were some horror stories out there about replacing the device.

 

In any event, like you all went well except for one swithclink, a 6 button. I did a manual factory reset of the device, which cleared it. I did not delete the device from ISY. I then did a restore device in the ISY.

 

Wall Switches & Keypads
  1. Disconnect your Wall Switch or Keypad from power by pulling the set button out
  2. Press and hold the set button
  3. Continue holding the set button until the beep stops If your device does not beep, hold the set button for ten seconds
  4. Release the set button. You should hear two beeps confirming that your Wall Switch or Keypad has been reset

 

It worked!

 

Ya know, I would like to learn more about the PLM with a pass through and how a cut in half extension cord can help!!

 

John

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Before uninstalling the device, did you try a factory reset on it?  Pull the tab just below the paddle.  Typically you need to use a butter knife or similar.  It can be tough to pull it out all the way to the point that it stays out.  Anyway, after puling it out all the way and letting it sit for 5 seconds or so (you know you got it out if the led shuts off), push the tab back in all the way and hold it in until the device beeps.  At this point it should have factory reset.  Now do a "restore device" from ISY.

 

I cut the female end off an extension cord and installed alligator clips on the free wires which I use to test switchlincs and other hard wired devices without having to wire it in.  Just a word of caution, those alligator clips will give you a shock if you touch them while it is plugged in.  I used alligators with plastic covering, but still, pay attention to what you touch.  The plastic coverings are colored so you can use red (or black)/white for ease in recognition of hot/neutral.  And you do not want to clip "hot".  The arcing that may occur can damage the electronics.  Clip it up first, be certain that the wires are stabalized and not touching anything they shouldn't (blue tape them down to your work table), then plug in.

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Use a 6' or longer 2-wire extension cord cut in half. Strip and splice together the neutral from each half. The neutral side has a rib, the line side is smooth. As per apostolakisl, attach an insulated alligator clip to the neutral. I use banana plugs. Most alligator clips will fit on them and you can change to different clips as needed.

 

Attach a clip (or banana plug) to each other wire. The plug side is line, the receptacle side is load. I use appropriately colored clips. If you plug a lamp into the receptacle you can then test devices before you install them. This is also a good time to add the device to the ISY, setting anything that settable.

 

BTW, I use a small pocket screwdriver to pull out and push back in the set button after waiting at least 10 seconds.

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