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Etekcity WiFi Smart Plugs


Scottmichaelj

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Right now theres a deal on a 4-Pack Etekcity WiFi Smart Plugs. These seem interesting so wanted to share. Please no politics, JK, not kidding :) Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant for voice control. Does not currently support SmartThings, homekit, or IFTTT.

 

https://www.etekcity.com/productcate/59/list

 

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Monitoring-Assistant-Required/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9&pf_rd_p=9de28e7a-2a50-4581-8452-0dd59381e761&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=KWDK9M59M0758C3K6AM6&linkCode=sl1&tag=drolif05-20&linkId=cdc4ee8ecff8adc0856d55e76b3fbaf3

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I am going to get something like these to appease the war dept. She (er, we in case she sees this :) ) could know when the clothes washer or dishwasher was done. However, it looks like these are rated at 8 amps. I'm not sure that would be enough for those appliances. Lack of a UL listing concerns me too.

 

Would probably be good for table lamps, lava lamps and the like.

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I am going to get something like these to appease the war dept. She (er, we in case she sees this :) ) could know when the clothes washer or dishwasher was done. However, it looks like these are rated at 8 amps. I'm not sure that would be enough for those appliances. Lack of a UL listing concerns me too.

 

Would probably be good for table lamps, lava lamps and the like.

Would love to hear your thoughts once you get them. Also if you can get the ISY to control them.

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Right now it is all just research. I wish I could do it all it once but I have to do it bit-by-bit. Once I get the Brultech GEM installed for the major circuits I may not need them. Some calcs and triggers for the possible loads may be enough. If I do need to get more granular, I will likely go with something like these:

 

http://enerwaveautomation.com/products/smart-outlet-zwave-zw15rm/#tab-custom_tab_specifications

 

Hopefully, the ISY won't have issues with them.

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Right now it is all just research. I wish I could do it all it once but I have to do it bit-by-bit. Once I get the Brultech GEM installed for the major circuits I may not need them. Some calcs and triggers for the possible loads may be enough. If I do need to get more granular, I will likely go with something like these:

 

http://enerwaveautomation.com/products/smart-outlet-zwave-zw15rm/#tab-custom_tab_specifications

 

Hopefully, the ISY won't have issues with them.

Ah so you got a Brultech! Awesome. Sometimes you want to know the “big” items then the plugs help micro manage the smaller stuff for specific needs.

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I haven't got the Brultech yet. I will be getting it soon though.

 

I saw something a while back, and I don't remember the context or the site, but it was a power monitor that you only put on the mains. From the power signatures (like noise on the line), it would learn and could determine the different devices that were powered. Like power changes from a coffee hot plate cycling or the spikes seen from a motor running. From those signatures you could then label the coffee maker or the dishwasher or a blow dryer. I don't think the brultech will be sensitive enough to read line noise but I should be able to determine that if a circuit is pulling 40watts then the lava lamp is on. If it is 400w the TV is on. 440w then both are on - that type of thing. At least, hopefully.

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I haven't got the Brultech yet. I will be getting it soon though.

 

I saw something a while back, and I don't remember the context or the site, but it was a power monitor that you only put on the mains. From the power signatures (like noise on the line), it would learn and could determine the different devices that were powered. Like power changes from a coffee hot plate cycling or the spikes seen from a motor running. From those signatures you could then label the coffee maker or the dishwasher or a blow dryer. I don't think the brultech will be sensitive enough to read line noise but I should be able to determine that if a circuit is pulling 40watts then the lava lamp is on. If it is 400w the TV is on. 440w then both are on - that type of thing. At least, hopefully.

 

The Brultech GEM can easily detect 1 watt on any branch circuit. The other so called energy monitors that simply monitor the two sides of the electrical feed use their fairy dust software to guess what is operating. I've used every one of them from Nuerio ~ Sense and each of them are pure and utter junk. Bottom line you will never see these toy like products installed into any serious commercial, enterprise, government, industry application.

 

While Brultech is indeed used and deployed in all of the above . . .

 

The Brultech company has been in the energy monitoring business for more than 20 years and this is all they do.

 

There are many larger billion dollar companies from the likes of Eaton, Leviton, who also make energy monitors. Yet not one of these billion dollar companies have ever offered or interacted with the DIY crowd or the development community. What they offer and what you get offers no value, features, or any interest to connect to home automation and beyond.

 

The 1980 graphs they offer are limited and they will surely entertain creating *One Off* charts and graphs for you for a tidy fee! This assumes your purchase meets the minimum price point of $10K which gets you almost nothing in return. Invest $100K they may throw you a few scraps and bones at your feet.

 

If energy monitoring / energy management is more than a passing fad there is nothing in the market that will offer you the lowest CT to cost ratio than a Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM).

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The Brultech GEM can easily detect 1 watt on any branch circuit. The other so called energy monitors that simply monitor the two sides of the electrical feed use their fairy dust software to guess what is operating. I've used every one of them from Nuerio ~ Sense and each of them are pure and utter junk. Bottom line you will never see these toy like products installed into any serious commercial, enterprise, government, industry application.

 

While Brultech is indeed used and deployed in all of the above . . .

 

The Brultech company has been in the energy monitoring business for more than 20 years and this is all they do.

 

There are many larger billion dollar companies from the likes of Eaton, Leviton, who also make energy monitors. Yet not one of these billion dollar companies have ever offered or interacted with the DIY crowd or the development community. What they offer and what you get offers no value, features, or any interest to connect to home automation and beyond.

 

The 1980 graphs they offer are limited and they will surely entertain creating *One Off* charts and graphs for you for a tidy fee! This assumes your purchase meets the minimum price point of $10K which gets you almost nothing in return. Invest $100K they may throw you a few scraps and bones at your feet.

 

If energy monitoring / energy management is more than a passing fad there is nothing in the market that will offer you the lowest CT to cost ratio than a Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM).

The only flaw in his “want” is that if a circuit shares many plugs it maybe hard to determine when a coffee pot is triggered if another device is also on. Let’s not go down this hole though.

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The only flaw in his “want” is that if a circuit shares many plugs it maybe hard to determine when a coffee pot is triggered if another device is also on. Let’s not go down this hole though.

 

Every appliance has an energy signature and in your example a circuit that had other existing loads could be easily seen and known. Since the coffee pot is a short momentary device that load of 700 ~ 1500 watts would show up as a short energy blip. So for this example lets say there's a 60 watt light, 35 watt X what ever.

 

The steady RMS wattage is 95 watts . . .

 

If and when that coffee pot comes on and lets say its 1000 watts for a nice round number.

 

What ever he uses to monitor and track the energy would show up on the chart / graphs as 1095 watts.

 

The GEM has the resolution to detect 1 watt so anything he or anyone else thinks they want to measure will be captured once the system is fined tuned.

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Every appliance has an energy signature and in your example a circuit that had other existing loads could be easily seen and known. Since the coffee pot is a short momentary device that load of 700 ~ 1500 watts would show up as a short energy blip. So for this example lets say there's a 60 watt light, 35 watt X what ever.

 

The steady RMS wattage is 95 watts . . .

 

If and when that coffee pot comes on and lets say its 1000 watts for a nice round number.

 

What ever he uses to monitor and track the energy would show up on the chart / graphs as 1095 watts.

 

The GEM has the resolution to detect 1 watt so anything he or anyone else thinks they want to measure will be captured once the system is fined tuned.

I said “let’s not go down this road” - that must mean something different to you. I know all this I have one. Still smaller watt devices are harder on multiple outlets that share the same circuit.

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I said “let’s not go down this road” - that must mean something different to you. I know all this I have one. Still smaller watt devices are harder on multiple outlets that share the same circuit. ‍♂

 

Yes, but my reply was to clarify what you stated.  :mrgreen:

 

You posed a question / example and I wanted to ensure anyone reading this specific thread fully understood that based on that coffee pot example. The GEM can and will detect such a energy blip.

 

In the same vain if we assume the OP spends the extra money for a Dash Box (DB). Any load that changes from 1 watt will show up in the low, high, and average statistics. If the OP was to change the view to the live tab the real time wattage could be seen for a cause and effect.  :D Lastly, if device specific monitoring was also needed besides the branch circuit using the cUL / UL split cord would give that information.

 

As I do this now and it doesn't require me plugging in any other hardware etc.  :mrgreen:

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The line noise thing was just an example of applying their idea as a basic principle.  I thought it was an interesting concept but even though they had a working prototype, the article was still heavy on theory and based on AI learning. It may not have been an article but a press release trying to drum up some angel funding. Anyway, it's not something I would consider until it was more established. Plus, if I were to buy serial number 2, it would likely cost a fortune. :)

 

Luckily, I think I have enough branch circuits that it won't be an issue. Even if I do run across a conundrum, some re-arranging might solve the issue. For example, I can move the coffee maker over to the bar circuit if it has similar characteristics to, say, the toaster oven.

 

As to energy management, my first exposure to a "sophisticated" EMS was in '90 with an Andover AC256M. It would allow people to dial in, give voice prompts for them to enter their password and code that would turn their HVAC system on for 2 hours. It would then spit out fully formatted bill with it's thermal printer. :) Cool system for the time. The ISY programming reminds me a bit of their Drum Programming Language. But, I digress and get of topic...

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Here is a nice video

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0noPB8NlGO8

 

There is nothing about the api. You should be able to get the network module on ISY to control it if you know that info. As far as it working like a synchrolinc, telling ISY when there is a power draw running through it, I don't have high hopes.

Bummer, an API would be nice to have and to have a user account to use it via the app is a dealbreaker for me. Don’t need another IoT calling home, but if you block it, it might stop working. The other thing is how do you put this stuff on a MAC reservation on a subnet? I am close to hitting 255 Devices on my network as it is. I guess you could always add a second network or toss it on the “guest” network on a subnet if needed to be. Not many consumer routers let you do that though.

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I saw something a while back, and I don't remember the context or the site, but it was a power monitor that you only put on the mains. From the power signatures (like noise on the line), it would learn and could determine the different devices that were powered. Like power changes from a coffee hot plate cycling or the spikes seen from a motor running. From those signatures you could then label the coffee maker or the dishwasher or a blow dryer. 

This is the holy grail of energy monitoring.   One such product was on This Old House last year, I doubt they'll have a viable consumer product this decade.

 

The other thing is how do you put this stuff on a MAC reservation on a subnet? I am close to hitting 255 Devices on my network as it is. I guess you could always add a second network or toss it on the “guest” network on a subnet if needed to be. Not many consumer routers let you do that though.

If you're using 192.168.1.. addresses, you aren't limited to 255 devices on your network!

 

Just change the netmask on your router from 255.255.255.0 to 255.255.0.0 and you can do +65K devices.   Or if you're using 10. addresses you can change the netmask to 10.0.0.0 and can put in well over 16 million devices before your run out of addresses.

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Bummer, an API would be nice to have and to have a user account to use it via the app is a dealbreaker for me. Don’t need another IoT calling home, but if you block it, it might stop working. The other thing is how do you put this stuff on a MAC reservation on a subnet? I am close to hitting 255 Devices on my network as it is. I guess you could always add a second network or toss it on the “guest” network on a subnet if needed to be. Not many consumer routers let you do that though.

 

Holy crap! Are most of your wiring devices networked based?

 

This is the holy grail of energy monitoring.   One such product was on This Old House last year, I doubt they'll have a viable consumer product this decade.

 

If you're using 192.168.1.. addresses, you aren't limited to 255 devices on your network!

 

Just change the netmask on your router from 255.255.255.0 to 255.255.0.0 and you can do +65K devices.   Or if you're using 10. addresses you can change the netmask to 10.0.0.0 and can put in well over 16 million devices before your run out of addresses.

 

I think his issue is being able to reserve more than 256 IP's with his current router, not so much the lack of possible addresses. Of course, I wouldn't want to have to manually enter to reserve 16 million IP addresses. :)

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I think his issue is being able to reserve more than 256 IP's with his current router, not so much the lack of possible addresses. Of course, I wouldn't want to have to manually enter to reserve 16 million IP addresses. :)

My assumption was that he is running out of total IP addresses, not all devices need a reserved IP.    There are legitimate reasons for splitting your network into multiple segments instead of just opening up the netmask, but that's beyond the scope of this thread.

 

I moved my DHCP server, including reservations, off the router years ago, I do my Static IP Mappings in an enterprise IPAM tool, but I think even some free systems (e.g. pfSense) allow for unlimited reservations.   

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Holy crap! Are most of your wiring devices networked based?

 

 

I think his issue is being able to reserve more than 256 IP's with his current router, not so much the lack of possible addresses. Of course, I wouldn't want to have to manually enter to reserve 16 million IP addresses. :)

My assumption was that he is running out of total IP addresses, not all devices need a reserved IP. There are legitimate reasons for splitting your network into multiple segments instead of just opening up the netmask, but that's beyond the scope of this thread.

 

I moved my DHCP server, including reservations, off the router years ago, I do my Static IP Mappings in an enterprise IPAM tool, but I think even some free systems (e.g. pfSense) allow for unlimited reservations.

I currently have setup 192.168.0.0/24 and getting close to 255 devices so I need to switch to 192.168.0.0/18 to open up more addresses or get some of my IoTs items on another subnets. Which maybe actually a safer way/easier to block this stuff from calling home.

 

I am a nut! I probably have 20+ led controllers, 16+ IP Cameras, 10 HDMI over IP, 10 TVs, etc etc. Like I said these IoT things add up quick. I use a SMB Ruckus Unleashed R600 AP for wireless which handles all this stuff without any problems and pfsense router.

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Here is a nice video 

 

 

There is nothing about the api.  You should be able to get the network module on ISY to control it if you know that info.  As far as it working like a synchrolinc, telling ISY when there is a power draw running through it, I don't have high hopes.

 

 

Based on the video is it safe to assume all of the smarts are done in the vendors cloud service?? If all of the data and scheduling is done locally with out the need for a constant Internet connection this changes the ball game.

 

Is someone going to get one of these outlets to test if the above is true?

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Based on the video is it safe to assume all of the smarts are done in the vendors cloud service?? If all of the data and scheduling is done locally with out the need for a constant Internet connection this changes the ball game.

 

Is someone going to get one of these outlets to test if the above is true?

It appears it’s half and half. To schedule or get any data, to add to your network etc you need an account and it connects via the cloud. However the scheduling, data etc are local on the plug. I don’t want to mess with yet another account and cloud for my home. I have enough already. Friends just gave me a Amazon Echo Show for Christmas and have not set it up yet until I can make sure everything is local and stop always listening. Might be a nice picture frame and security camera display.

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It appears it’s half and half. To schedule or get any data, to add to your network etc you need an account and it connects via the cloud. However the scheduling, data etc are local on the plug. I don’t want to mess with yet another account and cloud for my home. I have enough already. Friends just gave me a Amazon Echo Show for Christmas and have not set it up yet until I can make sure everything is local and stop always listening. Might be a nice picture frame and security camera display.

Do you have a resource link to offer where it calls out what you noted up above?

 

If the device simply needs a cloud account and initial connection to setup and program. Yet the hardware will operate without the aid of the cloud that's a fine compromise for some I would think.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Do you have a resource link to offer where it calls out what you noted up above?

 

If the device simply needs a cloud account and initial connection to setup and program. Yet the hardware will operate without the aid of the cloud that's a fine compromise for some I would think.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. My opinions are just based on the video. I can’t imagine you would have to be logged in for a scheduled timer. What if you not home? Or turn something off in “X” mins.

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It appears it’s half and half. To schedule or get any data, to add to your network etc you need an account and it connects via the cloud. However the scheduling, data etc are local on the plug. I don’t want to mess with yet another account and cloud for my home. I have enough already. Friends just gave me a Amazon Echo Show for Christmas and have not set it up yet until I can make sure everything is local and stop always listening. Might be a nice picture frame and security camera display.

I have my Google homes plugged into controlled outlets that I can turn on/off when I don't want them listening

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 1/28/2018 at 7:19 PM, Scottmichaelj said:

No. My opinions are just based on the video. I can’t imagine you would have to be logged in for a scheduled timer. What if you not home? Or turn something off in “X” mins.

My concern is not that the phone is sending the on/off command during a schedule or timer, but rather it is the etekcity server that is doing it.  Meaning that if for whatever reason their server is not available, the timers would not function.  Like for example your internet goes down.  I would be interested in these if indeed the schdedule is held locally.  Also, how does it know what time it is?  Does it use a standard time server or does it use etekcity time server?  And does it keep time on its own if it loses its connection to the server?

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