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Please help me wire a 3-Way


Athlon

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1 hour ago, Athlon said:

Got it done and working!  Thank you for all of your help!!

The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to sync the two dimmers and their dimming levels to the module in the fixture. They both turn the module (fixture) on and off, though, which is great!

I used this to get it done:  @oberkc "At the fixture, connect all blacks together, including black from module, but excluding black from fixture.  Connect all whites together, including module and fixture.  Connect red from module to fixture black.  All grounds go together."

Before I did that, I figured out how to get neutral and line to each box using my voltmeter to power the dimmers: @apostolakisl

 

Good to hear.  I guess you had no unused conductors between the light fixture and any of the boxes.

If you are new to Insteon and ISY, you need to go set up the scene so that your local on-level/ramp rate and scene on-level/ramp rate are the same.  Otherwise your dimmer switches led indicators won't follow what the light is actually doing.

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23 minutes ago, apostolakisl said:

Good to hear.  I guess you had no unused conductors between the light fixture and any of the boxes.

If you are new to Insteon and ISY, you need to go set up the scene so that your local on-level/ramp rate and scene on-level/ramp rate are the same.  Otherwise your dimmer switches led indicators won't follow what the light is actually doing.

Only one wire ended up not being used - the red one between the two switch boxes. 

I've had X10/Insteon for a long time - just my first experience with a module so it took me a few minutes to figure it out.  All is working great now - thanks again.

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2 minutes ago, Athlon said:

Only one wire ended up not being used - the red one between the two switch boxes. 

I've had X10/Insteon for a long time - just my first experience with a module so it took me a few minutes to figure it out.  All is working great now - thanks again.

OK, so you had a 3 way set up between the two boxes and switch loop from one box  to the fixture.  That isn't code anymore (at least not here).  You should expect this problem in other fixtures in your house (both 3 way and single).  Unfortunately that means more cost for the micro-module.

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47 minutes ago, Athlon said:

Ben lucky so far, I guess.  In two other 3-way situations I had a neutral in each box.  Only one more in my home - we'll see down the road!

If you have access to the top plate or bottom plate of the wall with the no-neutral box (ie unfinished basement/crawlspace/attic) you can always drill into the wall and pull new wires.  You just need to tap into a hot/neutral from some other box accessible from that attic/crawlspace/basement.  Or, if it is an attic, you can pull a new wire between the box and light fixture.

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4 hours ago, Athlon said:

 

The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to sync the two dimmers and their dimming levels to the module in the fixture. They both turn the module (fixture) on and off, though, which is great

 

Did you create a scene with both switches as controller and module as responder?  If so, within that scene select each of the controller devices and make sure all responder levels match up.  All three devices should have identical ON level responses.

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1 hour ago, oberkc said:

Did you create a scene with both switches as controller and module as responder?  If so, within that scene select each of the controller devices and make sure all responder levels match up.  All three devices should have identical ON level responses.

Yes - just took me a few minutes to figure that out after my original post on the subject. We be really happy this is done!

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