Blackbird Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) My previous Genie opener worked fine with the I/O linc. Now I bought a Chamberlain garage door opener (C203C) and the I/O linc wont open the door. My opener says it is "myQ" compatible, what do I need to buy to be able to open the garage door with my Android phone? Thanks Edited April 27, 2020 by Blackbird
larryllix Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 3 minutes ago, Blackbird said: My previous Genie opener worked fine with the I/O linc. Now I bought a Chamberlain garage door opener (C203C) and the I/O linc wont open the door. My opener says it is "myQ" compatible, what do I need to buy to be able to open the garage door with my Android phone? Thanks A WiFi router and an Insteon FilterLinc. That thing destroyed my Insteon system down to about 25% comms.
simplextech Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 If you're dealing with a Chamberlain MyQ or any of the Security+ 2.0 garage doors I recommend not wasting time trying to hack around their cloud services and buy one of these and then use whatever you want to control it. https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/ 1 1
TrojanHorse Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 28 minutes ago, Blackbird said: ...what do I need to buy...? Thanks I was gonna say a soldering iron, but @simplextech linked to (what appears to be) a really cool gadget!
larryllix Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 27 minutes ago, simplextech said: If you're dealing with a Chamberlain MyQ or any of the Security+ 2.0 garage doors I recommend not wasting time trying to hack around their cloud services and buy one of these and then use whatever you want to control it. https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/ Cool gadget but I can't see any difference between that and the existing myQ controller. Is there any local API for it?
simplextech Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 4 minutes ago, larryllix said: Cool gadget but I can't see any difference between that and the existing myQ controller. Is there any local API for it? It's not a controller. It's a pass through around the Security+ system so you can use normal contact closures like the IOLinc or their remote opener device. 1
TrojanHorse Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 It's not a controller. It's a pass through around the Security+ system so you can use normal contact closures like the IOLinc or their remote opener device. Is it basically another remote that you link to the opener? I’m sure you know people have DIYed that method by buying another remote and soldering leads to the buttons or soldering to the buttons on the wired wall control. Seems well worth $20 if one doesn’t need to hassle with that...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
simplextech Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 28 minutes ago, TrojanHorse said: Is it basically another remote that you link to the opener? I’m sure you know people have DIYed that method by buying another remote and soldering leads to the buttons or soldering to the buttons on the wired wall control. Seems well worth $20 if one doesn’t need to hassle with that... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk In essence... Yes.
larryllix Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 1 hour ago, simplextech said: It's not a controller. It's a pass through around the Security+ system so you can use normal contact closures like the IOLinc or their remote opener device. The instructions and description talk about setting up the app to control it with screen shots of the status of the garage door. There is also mention of making sure your WiFi is connected first. There is also no terminals shown to connect a dry contact to, shown or mentioned. The whole thing seemed to contradict itself...so I am confused.
Blackbird Posted April 27, 2020 Author Posted April 27, 2020 2 hours ago, larryllix said: A WiFi router and an Insteon FilterLinc. That thing destroyed my Insteon system down to about 25% comms. What does the FilterLinc do? Do I still use the I/O linc with it?
Blackbird Posted April 27, 2020 Author Posted April 27, 2020 2 hours ago, simplextech said: If you're dealing with a Chamberlain MyQ or any of the Security+ 2.0 garage doors I recommend not wasting time trying to hack around their cloud services and buy one of these and then use whatever you want to control it. https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/ Does this work with the I/O Linc?
oberkc Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 5 hours ago, larryllix said: The instructions and description talk about setting up the app to control it with screen shots of the status of the garage door. There is also mention of making sure your WiFi is connected first. There is also no terminals shown to connect a dry contact to, shown or mentioned. The whole thing seemed to contradict itself...so I am confused. It appears to me that there are two sets of wire pairs coming from this device. One pair connects to the opener. The other wire pair connects to a dry-contact button. In essence, it looks like an additional wall remote where someone has already soldered leads to the buttons. 2 1
larryllix Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, Blackbird said: What does the FilterLinc do? Do I still use the I/O linc with it? The FilterLinc has two receptacles on it. The bottom one filters out electrical noise from appliances, keeping the noise out of your powergrid. That is where you plug your GDO cord into. The receptacle on the back is a straight through, unfiltered receptacle where you would plug your IOlinc into. I had some random problems with my Insteon at that end of the house with my first Chamberlain GDO. I always figured it was from my inverters at that end of the house. Years later I got a second Chamberlain garage door opened with the battery backup and soft close. Then my Insteon control dropped to about 25% success so it was easy to find. A simple unplugging one found it. Then I unplugged the old AC operated GDO unit and things got even better. The motor doesn't seem to cause the problem, just the electronics doing nothing. With the battery backed-up unit I could understand it but it must be the radio power supply in the AC motor unit. Two FilterLincs solved the problem better than my system ever worked before. They are so easy to install. They look just like the older ApplianceLinc plug-ins. Good for troubleshooting Insteon problems too. Edited April 27, 2020 by larryllix
larryllix Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 54 minutes ago, oberkc said: It appears to me that there are two sets of wire pairs coming from this device. One pair connects to the opener. The other wire pair connects to a dry-contact button. In essence, it looks like an additional wall remote where someone has already soldered leads to the buttons. That is the way the picture and coarse description reads but the installation instructions are about setting up WiFi and the app?? Maybe they have the instructions crossed with the $79 Garadget unit??? None of this affords a status feedback. There aren't enough wire pairs.https://www.garadget.com/setup-instructions/
simplextech Posted April 27, 2020 Posted April 27, 2020 3 hours ago, larryllix said: That is the way the picture and coarse description reads but the installation instructions are about setting up WiFi and the app?? Maybe they have the instructions crossed with the $79 Garadget unit??? None of this affords a status feedback. There aren't enough wire pairs.https://www.garadget.com/setup-instructions/ Their whole product is the garadget thingy which is wifi and is only control no status and I don't like it. The Security+ unit is just an inline bypass to provide control to any other contact controller. Use an IOLinc and open close sensor and done. Or any other controller just like any old dumb GDO. Or deal with the MyQ BS hassles. They aren't the only supplier of the inline device they are just the cheapest I've found. There' another one out there and it's closer to $50 which is just stupid.
Blackbird Posted April 28, 2020 Author Posted April 28, 2020 Based on the ideas you guys have given me, I asked my uncle who knows a lot about electronics to take a look at the PCB of the wall button for the opener and he suggested where to solder wires so it can connect directly to the I/O link. After doing this, I am now able to open and close my Chamberlain opener with the I/O link. So maybe save you guys some money and time if you want to try this. Thanks for the help
Teken Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 Based on the ideas you guys have given me, I asked my uncle who knows a lot about electronics to take a look at the PCB of the wall button for the opener and he suggested where to solder wires so it can connect directly to the I/O link. After doing this, I am now able to open and close my Chamberlain opener with the I/O link. So maybe save you guys some money and time if you want to try this. Thanks for the help In your case did going this route cause the smart display to cut out and get reset? That board looks different to others I’ve seen?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Blackbird Posted May 1, 2020 Author Posted May 1, 2020 Not sure what you mean by smart display. I guess mine doesnt have it.
Brian H Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 (edited) A smart display. Would have more functions. Like a clock display or electronic control messaging signals and only a single pair of wires between the opener and the controls. Both the power and control information is using the same pair of wires. When you put something like a I/OLinc's relay or a simple push button switch on it. It shorts out the power to the console when activated and resets the console display. What you did in your modification was simulate pushing the control electronics push button to operate the opener and not directly short the power and control signals. Killing the remotes power and probably it did a cold reset. Edited May 1, 2020 by Brian H Add information
apostolakisl Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 This is how I control my GDO, not because the opener has some proprietary com protocol but rather because I didn't think to run wires while the house was under construction and I wanted my Elk to have control. So I soldered to one of the radio remotes just like the button above and mounted it next to my elk panel. 10 years and I still haven't changed the battery. I don't understand what Teken is referring to when he says the smart display resetting. Whatever happens when someone physically pushes that button should be the same thing that happens when your io linc momentarily closes the circuit. As far as the GDO opener is concerned, someone just pushed the button and I would think pushing the button would not cause havoc. I also don't quite understand why some fancy comm protocol is there at all. Are we dealing with a wall mounted GDO button? Or is this thing a lot more than a button? Trying to figure out why the wall mounted button would need to ever be anything more than a simple contact closure. Nearest guess at this point is that the gdo is wifi enabled and they want to let people program it without a ladder, so they moved all that logic to the wall button? But then they also wanted people to use the same old 2-wires that would have already been there, so they came up with some rs-485 protocol comm?
Teken Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 This is how I control my GDO, not because the opener has some proprietary com protocol but rather because I didn't think to run wires while the house was under construction and I wanted my Elk to have control. So I soldered to one of the radio remotes just like the button above and mounted it next to my elk panel. 10 years and I still haven't changed the battery. I don't understand what Teken is referring to when he says the smart display resetting. Whatever happens when someone physically pushes that button should be the same thing that happens when your io linc momentarily closes the circuit. As far as the GDO opener is concerned, someone just pushed the button and I would think pushing the button would not cause havoc. I also don't quite understand why some fancy comm protocol is there at all. Are we dealing with a wall mounted GDO button? Or is this thing a lot more than a button? Trying to figure out why the wall mounted button would need to ever be anything more than a simple contact closure. Nearest guess at this point is that the gdo is wifi enabled and they want to let people program it without a ladder, so they moved all that logic to the wall button? But then they also wanted people to use the same old 2-wires that would have already been there, so they came up with some rs-485 protocol comm? As Brian noted up above some people have tapped off the smart display instead of using a dumb remote / door bell activator. The smart display in past iterations don’t have a simple open / close contact and is managed by a micro computer which sends secure comms to the GDO.Unfortunately going this route causes the smart display to reset and cause the famous VCR blinking clock! For me this wasn’t a big deal but also didn’t bother going this route and instead tapped directly to the GDO in parallel which didn’t cause the smart display to reset. There’s nothing stopping anyone to use the dumb remote / door bell style to integrate with their HA. I just didn’t go this route because it was a easy fix and didn’t compromise the secure connection.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
larryllix Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 1 hour ago, apostolakisl said: This is how I control my GDO, not because the opener has some proprietary com protocol but rather because I didn't think to run wires while the house was under construction and I wanted my Elk to have control. So I soldered to one of the radio remotes just like the button above and mounted it next to my elk panel. 10 years and I still haven't changed the battery. I don't understand what Teken is referring to when he says the smart display resetting. Whatever happens when someone physically pushes that button should be the same thing that happens when your io linc momentarily closes the circuit. As far as the GDO opener is concerned, someone just pushed the button and I would think pushing the button would not cause havoc. I also don't quite understand why some fancy comm protocol is there at all. Are we dealing with a wall mounted GDO button? Or is this thing a lot more than a button? Trying to figure out why the wall mounted button would need to ever be anything more than a simple contact closure. Nearest guess at this point is that the gdo is wifi enabled and they want to let people program it without a ladder, so they moved all that logic to the wall button? But then they also wanted people to use the same old 2-wires that would have already been there, so they came up with some rs-485 protocol comm? The wall control has 60Hz synced time clock, an open/close button, light on/off, GDO RF control lockout, power, and a few other functions over two wires making it retro wiring compatible. That is the only reason I can think of why a simple contact input would not have been used.
apostolakisl Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 18 minutes ago, Teken said: As Brian noted up above some people have tapped off the smart display instead of using a dumb remote / door bell activator. The smart display in past iterations don’t have a simple open / close contact and is managed by a micro computer which sends secure comms to the GDO. Unfortunately going this route causes the smart display to reset and cause the famous VCR blinking clock! For me this wasn’t a big deal but also didn’t bother going this route and instead tapped directly to the GDO in parallel which didn’t cause the smart display to reset. There’s nothing stopping anyone to use the dumb remote / door bell style to integrate with their HA. I just didn’t go this route because it was a easy fix and didn’t compromise the secure connection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The "hack" shown isn't shorting the wires between the GDO and the wall remote, it is shorting the two leads that go to the tactile button. Pushing the tac switch or using a dry contact as shown in the hack are electrically equivalent. So I don't think the hack above would do anything except exactly what pushing the button does.
Teken Posted May 1, 2020 Posted May 1, 2020 The "hack" shown isn't shorting the wires between the GDO and the wall remote, it is shorting the two leads that go to the tactile button. Pushing the tac switch or using a dry contact as shown in the hack are electrically equivalent. So I don't think the hack above would do anything except exactly what pushing the button does. Yes, I agree in the photo above it would replicate the same action. In the smart remote panel there was something different which didn’t lend to this being possible.Don’t recall what, but for me, it didn’t matter as I tapped off at the GDO directly. No extra battery remote, no dumb door bell, no battery extra cost! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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