querry

[robandcathy1]

Hi ladys and gents hope all of us are enjoying our 3 day weekend in US and unfortunately others have to work. Sorry, so my issue is as follows before I started this topic and bothered people I did a simple google search of how to automatically query the isy. To get to root of this problem is that I lose track of maybe 3 tasks while ISY does 100s a day and sometimes gets confused. Sometimes status does not show up right or motion sensors stop working , usually a query fixes but on rare occasions a reboot fixes it, so going back to start of my question my google search came back with info….very old info about this, as the isy is ever changing. Is there a program that I can use to automatically query all devices 4x a day and/or reboot isy daily lets say 2am. Sorry if this has been answered but sifting through sooooo much data can take a day to get proper answer.  Thank You in advance 

[MrBill]

There should be a factory "query all" program in your program tree that is already set to run daily at 3AM.  On large systems this can take awhile and is best run when no one is moving about or turning things on and off during the query.    (example in my house the query all takes almost 10 minutes.)

that said the solution is probably not to have that run more often, nor to add a method to cause an auto reboot, the actual solution is most likely to find the root cause, which is most likely a noise problem.

Is your system composed in Insteon, Z-wave or both?  how many of each type device roughly?  is it always the same devices and tasks with problems?

[Teken]

Hi ladys and gents hope all of us are enjoying our 3 day weekend in US and unfortunately others have to work. Sorry, so my issue is as follows before I started this topic and bothered people I did a simple google search of how to automatically query the isy. To get to root of this problem is that I lose track of maybe 3 tasks while ISY does 100s a day and sometimes gets confused. Sometimes status does not show up right or motion sensors stop working , usually a query fixes but on rare occasions a reboot fixes it, so going back to start of my question my google search came back with info….very old info about this, as the isy is ever changing. Is there a program that I can use to automatically query all devices 4x a day and/or reboot isy daily lets say 2am. Sorry if this has been answered but sifting through sooooo much data can take a day to get proper answer.  Thank You in advance 

ISY Reboot: There isn’t a (present) method to hard boot the ISY Series Controller. You can use an external device like a web based remote switch, egg timer, etc. Lastly, please add your voice to add this feature in the next generation of firmware and Polyisy.

As noted by Mr.Bill the system has a default 3:00 AM Query All. You can add the same to a program receive the latest status.

If a device not showing the correct status this can be caused by a device that has bad / missing links, noise makers, signal suckers, bad 2413S PLM.

NOTE: You can not query any battery operated devices. You will also lose the current state every time you reboot the system.


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[lilyoyo1]

18 minutes ago, Teken said:

 

ISY Reboot: There isn’t a (present) method to hard boot the ISY Series Controller. You can use an external device like a web based remote switch, egg timer, etc. Lastly, please add your voice to add this feature in the next generation of firmware and Polyisy.



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While it would be nice on the surface, I think this would be a dangerous thing to have when it comes to new users. Reality is, if all is good, the ISY shouldnt have to be rebooted. If it does need rebooting regularly, then there is a problem that needs to be addressed. Automating that task would most likely cause casual users more problems than it solves.

[mwester]

As others have noted, rebooting the ISY is not a good idea -- it's rather akin to solving an occasional stall by having your local dealer remove and re-install your car's engine every night.  And querying the devices more often -- that's just a hack, rather like "if the light switch doesn't click when you turn it on, jiggle it and turn it on and off until it does" -- it solves the symptom, but the light switch is bad, and until you fix it, it's just going to get worse.  In the case of the ISY, if it's missing status updates, something is causing that -- and it's not going to get better with time.

See the numerous threads here on dealing with "noise" and "signal suckers" -- you probably will need one or a dozen of the Insteon FilterLinc devices to clean up your power-line signal.  Welcome to Insteon's special little version of hell!

[Teken]

While it would be nice on the surface, I think this would be a dangerous thing to have when it comes to new users. Reality is, if all is good, the ISY shouldnt have to be rebooted. If it does need rebooting regularly, then there is a problem that needs to be addressed. Automating that task would most likely cause casual users more problems than it solves.

Agreed, but love to have the option nonetheless!


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[lilyoyo1]

2 minutes ago, Teken said:

 

Agreed, but love to have the option nonetheless!


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Cant argue with that reasoning! lol

[robandcathy1]

so I have 40+ dual band insteon devices, and at random some devices don't change status in isy,  and or upon opening admin section I get, cannot communicate with this device and the devices are usually different. So there is not 1 specific device with a issue. The house is 900sq ft. The devices that give me the least issues are ones furthest away from the isy, as in outside.  A query fixes these issues. The other issues when there not being found at first then I cant use alexa. Any thoughts.

[Teken]

1 hour ago, robandcathy1 said:

so I have 40+ dual band insteon devices, and at random some devices don't change status in isy,  and or upon opening admin section I get, cannot communicate with this device and the devices are usually different. So there is not 1 specific device with a issue. The house is 900sq ft. The devices that give me the least issues are ones furthest away from the isy, as in outside.  A query fixes these issues. The other issues when there not being found at first then I cant use alexa. Any thoughts.

1. Bridging / Coupling: Complete the 4 tap beacon test to confirm both sides of the single split phase electrical system is properly coupled. The full users manual outlines how to complete this test and what to look for in each hardware device.

2. Noise Makers / Signal Suckers: Unplug all devices in the home and see if there is an improvement. 

3. Level 3 Logging: Watch the error logs and see how many hops are left when you actuate any hardware. Zero hops left means some form of interference is present in the best case or failing hardware - worst case. In most instances you will see 1 hop left in and ideal environment you will see 2 hops left.

4. Scene Test: Use the scene test to confirm how the hardware reacts when activated. Watch the level 3 logs to see what comm issues are preset and how many hops are left as outlined in step 3.

5. Loads: If you're able to turn something on but the same hardware either is slow to turn off, doesn't turn off, this is a load issue. If you have any LED bulbs and you can see flickering, strobing, or hear hum, buzz, hiss, remove them. Any cell charger no matter the brand is a possible culprit.

6. Filtering: Any electronic device should be placed on a Insteon Filter Linc. For 120 / 240 VAC hardwired devices you can purchase the X10 Pro 15 / 20 amp inline filters.

[jtara92101]

1 hour ago, robandcathy1 said:

so I have 40+ dual band insteon devices, and at random some devices don't change status in isy,  and or upon opening admin section I get, cannot communicate with this device and the devices are usually different. So there is not 1 specific device with a issue. The house is 900sq ft. The devices that give me the least issues are ones furthest away from the isy, as in outside.  A query fixes these issues. The other issues when there not being found at first then I cant use alexa. Any thoughts.

Also, check for loose/missing connections!

I had until recently persistent problems communicating between the PLM and one particular room, and in particular the SwitchLinc at the entrance to that room. (master bedroom)

I was focused on my electrical system (unconventional for residential 3-phase system, where every other apartment is on two alternating legs of a 3-phase system, providing anomalies including the two legs not being 180 degrees out of phase with each other, and 208-volt appliance outlets...) as well as noise from my computers and "honking" UPS. (PLM is near the computers/UPS).

I've tried all sorts of things, the most promising was running a long extension cord to the master bedroom to plug-in the PLM.

Well, I recently move an OutletLinc from the master bedroom to entrance hallway, because I no longer needed it after updating to 5.x and Polyglot (on Polisy) and was able to install Hue bulbs in bedside lamps and integrate with the SwitchLinc and so no longer needed the OutletLinc. So, I wanted to move the OutletLinc to the hallway for a neater installation than the 2-pin dimmer that was there. (Outlet vs plug-in dongle).

When I removed the OutletLinc, I noticed that one of the wires was loose or perhaps not connected at all. I *think* it was the neutral. But not sure how that OutletLinc even worked if there was no neutral connected. In any case, it was AT LEAST loose, and then perhaps was creating noise.

After swapping the BR OutletLinc with the conventional outlet in the hall, no more communication problems! PLM no longer has any trouble communicating with the MBR devices, and it's plugged in right next to the computer (no long extension cord).

I had checked and re-check the SwitchLinc wiring, thinking if there was a wiring problem, it MUST be there.

Check ALL the outlet/switch wiring to make sure it is snug!

[robandcathy1]

I have been systematically replacing switches with ones that have issues, last year bought a ton when on sale, this seemed to fix all my issues I only get 1alert now for a switch I did not replace yet. Its a older switch just no time, my confusion is they work locally and remotely just throw codes is isy. My new issue UGH is while trying to replace some switches and trying to add them… brand new switches (tried 3) 2477d  X2 and a on and off switch always get insteon engine cannot... I do get their stupid process how they letter things but cannot add any to isy manually or automatically. I tried different variance of 0 and 8 etc, no luck. 3 switches brand new cant be bad. I for a change uploaded log files and don't understand why event viewer is so short when there is 100 Activities a day. I miss the days of UDI live support. Not to down play how great the forum is but live support usually fixes it within a hour not days. Anybody for remote access and get paid via paypal? I just want this to get finally fixed by a pro, rather then wasting peoples time. EDIT so I don't think I should worry about pahse n signal etc because with 40 devices in such a small house using dual band,  and the area where I want to replace a switch is literly next to another dual band switch that work just fine and less then 10 feet from 6 other dual band switches that work fine. That's the point Right? powerline fails wifi kicks in. if there was noise then I should have way more issues.

ISY_Log_v5.0.16B__Tue_2020_06_02_07_02.07_PM.txt ISY-Events-Log.v5.0.16B__Tue 2020.06.02 07.01.28 PM.txt

[MrBill]

21 hours ago, robandcathy1 said:

EDIT so I don't think I should worry about pahse n signal etc because with 40 devices in such a small house using dual band,  and the area where I want to replace a switch is literly next to another dual band switch that work just fine and less then 10

 

The theory all sounds great, except I can tell you first hand about two specific problems I've had in the past (my system is all Insteon and large i don't know how many devices anymore but over 100, none more than a few years old at that time, and all DUAL-BAND,  with zero z-wave): 

• Case 1: I used to have a deep fryer in the kitchen that got used once a week for taco shells and chips,  for the one hour per week it was plugged in most Insteon didn't work. Some items coming from the PLM would ultimately execute very late as soon as the plugged was pulled for the deep fryer.  This is a 110v counter top deep fryer, on a kitchen counter receptacle circuit that has NO Insteon device on the circuit.  The deep fryer didn't even have to be turned on, just simply plugged in and Insteon would be dead in the water.  We just lived with that problem since it was only an hour per week.  Eventually that deep fryer kicked the bucket, it's replacement and Insteon very happy co-exist together.
• Case 2: After a storm most Insteon didn't work, but the weird part was some did.  At first I was sick to my stomach because I thought I was going to have to replace 50+ devices.  In the end I started playing with circuit breakers-- the first goal was to figure out if it was all devices on one phase and the other phase was fine, but it wasn't one phase or the other.  Eventually I turned off breakers in big groups then further narrowed it down to one when one breaker labeled "Furnace Blower" was turned off my entire Insteon system worked perfectly.  The kicker was I then tested heating and Air Conditioning... everything checked out and worked, but with that breaker turned on my Insteon system was essentially dead in the water.  It suddenly dawned on me.... the attic fan was also on that circuit.  I remember because it was actually hard to find the attic fan breaker when I installed it's Insteon switch, no breakers were labeled attic fan, no breaker seemed to turn the circuit off, of course I skipped "furnace blower" because why would it be that circuit?  Well during the initial install I finally just decided to "trip" the breaker so I could install the Insteon switch so went up and created a dead short so the breaker would trip...haha it was the furnace breaker, but stupid me didn't add it to the label at that time.  So I installed a 2466SW to control the attic fan.  I decided it need to be that switch because its advertised by smarthome as being "better" for motors and florescent lights than 2477S.  Anyway to wrap up this long story the 2466SW sustained storm damage, it was generating noise that brought down most of the Insteon dual band system... once I popped that single switch out and replaced it with a 2477S that I had on hand my entire system was back up and running.

Moral of the Story.... you have to get rid of noise makers and signal suckers follow the standard troubleshooting steps, and no you can't assume the radio portion of insteon will take over and heal the network in the event of line noise.

[robandcathy1]

Sound advice just sucks to do that much work with so called smart switches

[larryllix]

49 minutes ago, robandcathy1 said:

Sound advice just sucks to do that much work with so called smart switches

High tech stuff. When it works, it is great! When it doesn't, it sucks.

[Teken]

Sound advice just sucks to do that much work with so called smart switches

Have you gone down the list of action items outlined above?!?


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