I just picked up a Yolink hub, speaker hub, and vibration sensor, all three for $10. I often read good things about Yolink on this forum so I'm thinking that this is a rather affordable way to try it out. My question is: how is the integration with Alexa? Specifically, if I have a yolink temperature sensor, can I ask Alexa the temperature value? Does the plugin create device nodes that are treated as switches, temperature sensors, etc? Thanks.

YoLink create their own Alexa components

The plugin creates the devices like other existing device - you can give the trial a try - Note, there is a Yolink (clould only) and a YolinkLocal ( that requires the localHUb and is a little more complicated to setup) nodeservers - If you plan to move to the local hub later it may make sense to get/try the local version (there is unfortunately no way to upgrade later)

No, no plan for the local hub at this point. I already have lots of Insteon leak detectors and door sensors.

But does the Yolink Alexa integration allow asking the temperature of a temperature sensor?

What does the plugin provide? Storing the temperature value in a variable? Single event triggers for things like water leak detected? Can you have the speaker hub say something via text to speech? Is there a list of the things the plugin can do, somewhere?

I am not sure with the sensors - you can get their value in the alexa app - not sure if it can be spoken (never tried)

For the UDI integration you can implement home automation around the sensors - you can check the values with if-then, or you can use the build in alarms in Yolink to trigger (preferred due to faster reaction) to trigger something) - it is much like the existing insteon devices. The speaker hub allows up to 10 predefined (specified during setup of node) sentences to be played (in programs)

There is a list of Yolink devices supported but not a list of what they individually do - YoLink has more devices types than what insteon supports (most are supported in the node) - In general they work similar (but I feel they are more reliable than Insteon as long as internet is up - localHub version enables support without internet access) One exception is for dimmer scenes - I made an attempt but the control is too different between Insteon and YoLink to make it identical (it is the same with other devices like Zwave etc) - naturally you can program dimmer levels etc, but scene operations are not perfect

Well ok, that's a starting point. Thanks!

Anyone else with specific information and/or experience, chime in!

I have multiple Yolink temp sensors, and I do get responses when I ask Alexa what the temperature is on each. Interestingly, the answers don't seem to correspond exactly to what's reported at the sensor, but they are very close, so perhaps it's a timing issue of some sort around when the sensor last reported data to the app. I haven't done extensive testing on it.

That's what I was hoping to read. Enough to get me to order a temperature sensor. Thanks!

1 hour ago, dwengrovitz said:

perhaps it's a timing issue of some sort around when the sensor last reported data to the app.

That is the case. My experience with several 8003s is that the sensor display updates every 5 to 10 seconds, but the report out of the temp to the hub/cloud is more like 10 minutes, which is how they support the +2 year battery life by not incessantly reporting

In practice the response to input varies because it depends on where the cycle is at when it reports out to the hub/cloud. I have one near my bathroom shower and it kicks on the vent fan when the humidity rises a certain %. I can look at the sensor before/after and see that it has, but its rando how long it takes for the fan to actually start

I'm also pretty sure that if you set the upper/lower alarm thresholds it will respond faster and also use more battery.

If you're using Alexa, i expect that same delayed response. Probably good for someplace like an attic where the temps rise/fall slowly.

Edited 23 hours ago23 hr by paulbates

Response speed isn't an issue for what I want to do: know the pool water temperature. That changes very slowly.

A comment on battery life - I do not think the alarms use significantly more battery - the measurement happens anyway inside the sensor and it is the sensor that decides to send data - My understanding the "schedule" of the temp sensor depends on rate of change and a window (no update if temp remains inside this window), and if nothing changes, it will update once per X hours, The wireless communication (sending data) is where the power is spent

Note for pool sensor, yolink has a floating pool temp sensor - The first one I had leaked so they replaced it - 2nd one has been good this far

You mentioned having many Insteon temp and leak sensors. I had my house covered with them and have moved to YoLink for temp, leak, and water valve control. The LoRa protocol is the main reason and local aspects of leak detection (even with the non-local hub, because of the ability to link locally), are a real seller. In addition getting a read on the Insteon batter sensors was a bit hit and miss ; don't get me wrong loved them as an option, but have moved to YoLink for these kind of devices. Also, have moved to the local hub to satisfy my tinfoil hat.

I keep Insteon for switches, tried one YoLink switch for a Florida house & would not use everywhere. Things you don't need instant data but want reliable are the sweet spot for these.

YMMV but some thoughts with a > 10yr Insteon and few year YoLinker.

I relaced all my Z-wave leak sensors with Yolink leak sensors because the reporting from the Z-wave sensors was spotty and battery life was poor. Since Yolink has the capability to direct connect wirelessly devices together, I made use of that capability so I would not have to depend on the internet/cloud being available. This way they are operating in a local mode as well. I direct connected all the leak sensors to a Yolink relay which then connects to a home automation zone in my alarm panel which is being monitored by eisy (although I could have used an insteon sensor instead of an alarm panel zone). The eisy then triggers a Z-wave water shutoff value (which I originally got with the Z-wave leak sensors) when a leak is detected. It will also send an email if the internet is up. I set this up before the Yolink local hub was available. This has operated/triggered 2 or 3 times successfully over the past year or so.

I don't use Alexa but I do have 4 speaker hubs scattered through the house. They are used to announce various events like garage door being left open and water being shutoff due to a leak.

@Panda88 It looks like you can have more than 10 messages. I believe you suggested earlier in the year to try more; so, I did. I tried 11 messages and that worked. Not sure what the limit would be

Gary

20 minutes ago, GTench said:

Since Yolink has the capability to direct connect wirelessly devices together, I made use of that capability so I would not have to depend on the internet/cloud being available. This way they are operating in a local mode as well. I direct connected all the leak sensors to a Yolink relay which then connects to a home automation zone in my alarm paneI.

...

I set this up before the Yolink local hub was available.

Interesting, so a yolink sensor can activate a yolink output device locally, without needing web connectivity. That's an attractive alternative to the (expensive) local hub. I suppose that a Insteon IOLinc input could be triggered, in the same way you're triggering an alarm input zone. I imagine that triggering a vocal message on the speaker hub can also be done locally?

Thanks!

Not all yolink devices support local connection - you need to look at their specs

There is no inherent 10 text messages limit - I think I just defaulted it to 10 during initialization

I realize not all devices can be direct linked but I checked with Yolink about direct linking the relay before buying it. I believe Yolink promoted this direct link capability in particular for their water shutoff valve as a means to overcome criticism about their system depending upon the cloud. In my case, it came down to a choice of direct connecting the relay or replacing my Z-wave shutoff valve with the Yolink one, which was considerably more expensive than the relay. Also, I had already mechanically attached the Z-wave shutoff valve to my water shutoff valve.

The speaker hub can not be triggered locally without an internet connection. I tried it and it did not work. Not sure if the local hub gets around this issue.

The reason I used the alarm panel was because the relay needs to be powered (12V I believe). So, I mounted the relay on the alarm panel and powered it from that... just easier for me