justin.cool Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 I hate to ask this question that has been covered before, but I have been unable to SEARCH and find the previous postings. I am looking for clarification of the device types, with V.35 firmware, that cause communication problems. Is it some or all of the following devices? - Switchlinc dimmers 2476D - Switchlinc relays 2476S - Icon dimmers 2876D - Icon relays 2876S Are there other V.35 devices that cause problems as well? Thanks in advance! Justin in Dallas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberkc Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 I have recently looking at past posts on this topic. I have had good luck with a search on "V35" (no period). I understand that this affects switchlinc dimmers and relays, but not necessarily keypads or modules. I do not recall any discussion specifically about whether this affected icon models or only the full-priced models. I was not looking for this clarification, however, so I may have missed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Good question, I have v35 relays, v35 dimmers, and v35 220 relays and would like to know if the problems associated with v35 are common to all devices with the same version number or not...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michel Kohanim Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Hi Guys, As far as our experience, it's only v35 SWL dimmers and relays. With kind regards, Michel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin.cool Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Michel, Thank you for the clarification. However, in my telecon this past week with Smarthome / Insteon, they only acknowledged the issue with Dimmers, not the relays. But, the person on the phone was NOT very knowledgable, and another call is in order....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michel Kohanim Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Hello justin.cool, My pleasure. To be clear, the number of V35 relays with the same issue isa fraction of V35 dimmers. With kind regards, Michel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Illusion Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 I have 4 Icon relays 2876S v.35. In extensive testing, my system is more reliable with these devices active than not. I have had them in system for 2 years now without a problem. See http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... 2667#22667 for extensive testing results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Michel, If the problem units are only a fraction of the total V.35 switches made (if I understand your comment above), is there any way to tell which ones may be affected? Is their address a clue (depending on how they are assigned during manufacturing)? Thanks, JP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sub-Routine Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 If your v.35 devices are dimmers then it is almost 100%. Michel, If the problem units are only a fraction of the total V.35 switches made (if I understand your comment above), is there any way to tell which ones may be affected? Is their address a clue (depending on how they are assigned during manufacturing)? Thanks, JP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Interesting, out of 20+ V.35 SwitchLincs installed, only one is a dimmer and it is one of my most reliable switches. Most of my problems are with the V.35 relay switches...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I have some brand new v4.0 hardware v35firmware 2476d's that are new in boxes. I am scared to install them. Is there any way to test them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeG Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Some folks use a 3-wire appliance cord available from most any home improvement store. They have a plug on one end and bare wire connections on the other. Not very expensive. This arrangment allows any wired Insteon device to be easily wired up and plugged in to test. The device can even be moved around to different outlets if that is useful. There is a person on the Smarthome forum that tests every device being installed that way. He does a factory reset and tests the device before attempting to install the device. It eliminates all questions about wiring and a working device before installed in the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I have considered making a wire like that with alligator clips on the end to make it really easy. I was wondering if the v35 switches exhibit a consistent identifiable characteristic that tells you it is going to cause problems. If it is one of those "every once in a while" things, I don't know how I could test for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeG Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I strongly recommend against alligator clips when working around 120V AC. They are too easily dislodged or shorted and they do not provide the insulation needed to protect from electrical shock. Too much risk of fire and SERIOUS personal injury. Making a power cord is fine but use conventional wire nuts between the power cord and the Insteon device connections. They provide a secure mechanical connection as well as positive insulation. Always cap the red load wire on the Insteon device unless connecting to some test load. The load is not needed to see a v35 device failure. Some of the devices in my test bed are done with appliance cords if they are only being tested short term. I've not had any v35 devices in my inventory but from posts on various forums powerline communication seems to be the symptom and it is immediate. The failures can be with the v35 device itself or they cause interference with other Insteon devices. It looks like an internal PLM issue but there has not been any statement of cause from Smarthome or Smartlabs that I am aware of. Add the device to the ISY and try using it in the planned way. Links work regardless of the device install location. The switch can even be moved around to different outlets to see if relative location to other Insteon devices makes a difference. According to Steve Lee of Smarthome v35 devices do not create a problem in every environment. Also I think Smarthome will replace them if you are the original purchaser from Smarthome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Illusion Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I use Wago 222-412 lever nuts for this purpose. They are the best reusable option for making a test cable. Very quick, very secure, and they do not mess up the nicely tinned end of insteon switches like wire nuts sometimes do. The 5 port ones are also the best item I have found for those nightmare neutral messes in a box with three or more switches. It allows you to work with one wire at a time instead of trying to get 7 or more neutrals into one wire nut. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVE ... B003K0J4IQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apostolakisl Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Happy Thanksgiving! Smarthome is refusing to change out the switches becuase they stated: 1) There is nothing wrong with v35, period. It is ISY's fault if there is any fault at all. 2) Mine are 2 years and 2 months old. Regarding the alligator clips, I have insulated ones. I wouldn't put a load on the switch, so the current draw would be negligable. It would be no different than the thousands of times I have touched my multimeter to various hot wires. If there were a straight-forward test, I would love to know what it was. I really don't think running around the house plugging it in in different places and just seeing if anything goes wrong is very doable. I wouldn't even know what to look for. At what level of integration would it mess things up? 1) Just being connected to the house AC? 2) Being linked to ISY? 3) Being linked to other devices? 4) Does it matter if a load is attached? And would it be consistent or highly random in its problematic behavior? Again, it would be very challenging to test each one for a few weeks and wonder if random errors were becuase of it or some other random cause.[/i] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeG Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Here is a link and excerpt from an slee post on the Smarthome forum that documents v35 is problem at some installations and v37 replacements resolve the problem. A search request on Smarthome forum for "switchlinc v35" for All Words will provide a few more hits. http://www.smarthome.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5731 There are some installations that have an effect on the v35 switches. This could be caused my many things but the v37 switches that are shipping now seem to work just fine in the installs where v35 are acting up. Most of my house still has version v35 switches and I am not experiencing any issues. Please feel free to contact me so I can help you out with your installation. Steve Lee Smarthome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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