Remote Link eats batteries

[Mark Sanctuary]

Ok I will wait in a holding pattern. I am sure that they will exchange it for me later on. Thanks Michel!

[Guest]

Hi Michel,

 

Do you have any news on the issue?

 

On my part I did ran some limited tests. First test: I deleted all RL links from ISY, then ran factory reset on the RL, installed new batteries and let remote sit. Every other day or so I would press some buttons, more or less simulating regular (for me) remote use. In over a month batteries were not exhausted.

 

Then I had another idea. I linked two remotes to ISY, but instead of linking buttons to scenes, I wrote programs triggered by RL button presses. So far the remote is going two weeks with regular use, and batteries are OK. Previously, with hard links setup the batteries would run out in three days.

 

So it looks like there is definite problem Remotelinc and possible links number, or using ISY for setting links, or RLs are bad, or ...

 

Maybe to many links with RL kills the batteries fast, and some lower number of links is OK?

 

I would be interested to hear your thoughts and findings.

 

Mark

 

 

Hi Mark,

 

We have communicated our concerns to SH and they are investigating it as we speak. I shall keep you all posted with the outcome.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

I think it has to be some defective components on the circuit board rather than a software glitch. Also if the ISY had something to do with it, then the replacement RL should have started to have problems.

 

This lack of any consistent pattern is quite disturbing. I had two of RL working for months. I got them reprogrammed with ISY, and both are failing now. It might not be ISY issue, but based on my case it seems there is no guarantee the same thing is not going to happen in the future with the replacement RLs. Hopefully SH or UD figure out what goes wrong and correct the problem.

 

BTW, as a follow up to my previous post, my remotes are still draining batteries within three to five days after the factory resets.

 

Mark

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi Mark,

 

We have heard nothing at all. I shall send another note to SL to see if they have any updates.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

Hi Michel,

 

Do you have any news on the issue?

 

On my part I did ran some limited tests. First test: I deleted all RL links from ISY, then ran factory reset on the RL, installed new batteries and let remote sit. Every other day or so I would press some buttons, more or less simulating regular (for me) remote use. In over a month batteries were not exhausted.

 

Then I had another idea. I linked two remotes to ISY, but instead of linking buttons to scenes, I wrote programs triggered by RL button presses. So far the remote is going two weeks with regular use, and batteries are OK. Previously, with hard links setup the batteries would run out in three days.

 

So it looks like there is definite problem Remotelinc and possible links number, or using ISY for setting links, or RLs are bad, or ...

 

Maybe to many links with RL kills the batteries fast, and some lower number of links is OK?

 

I would be interested to hear your thoughts and findings.

 

Mark

 

 

[Brian H]

Michel;

Kind of a long shot but if you have access to the SDK Literature. The RemoteLinc has a eeprom address that can be written to that tell it how long to stay awake. I doubt thet you are writing to it but?

Page 4 of the "Insteon memory Maps" Document.

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi Brian,

 

Excellent observation ... we actually contemplated updating this memory location but decided against it since we were told:

the timeout value starts from the last time the RL received a programming request. So, instead of changing the memory location, we simply do everything RL related first and then let the default timeout stay.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

Michel;

Kind of a long shot but if you have access to the SDK Literature. The RemoteLinc has a eeprom address that can be written to that tell it how long to stay awake. I doubt thet you are writing to it but?

Page 4 of the "Insteon memory Maps" Document.

[DBaldwin]

I've been having a little trouble with a V2 Appliance Link (AL) turning itself on and off at rather peculiar times of the day for no apparent reason. I finally deduced that there was an X10 code (A2) assigned and the outside motion detecter was controlling the fan. (Grin)

 

In the process of doing a fatory reset of the AL, I lost control from my Remote Link (RL) to the device.

 

At first I was going to do a "Restore Devices" which warned to put the RL into "Programing Mode". As it had been a while since I had done this, I needed to refresh my memory on what to do to enter "Programing Mode". After reading through the short and the full RL Manual, I couldn't find and reference whatsoever to a "Programing Mode".

 

The manual does talk about a "Linking Mode" and also discusses a "multiple device linking mode".

 

In the past (way back when this thread started) I had used "Linking Mode" by pushing button 1 on and holding for 10 seconds thinking that this is the way to enter programing mode when doing a restore devices. It was after doing this a few times that I started having the battery problem which subsequently led to SH replacing my defective RL. Since replacing the RL, neither of my RL's has experience a rapid battery discharge problem.

 

As part of the repair to gain control of the RL over the AL, I realized that I needed to delete a scene. When I went to delete the scene, I was instructed to put the RL into "Communications Linc" by pressing the Dim and Bright buttons simultaneously. A whole different method of communicating with the RL from the ISY.

 

Now I'm wondering if there isn't some confusion on my part about the correct method that should be used to put the RL into "Programing mode" when doing a restore devices, and might this have something to do with causing the RL to start eating batteries?

 

Also, what is the difference between "Communications Mode, Programing Mode, Linking Mode, and Multiple Device Linking Mode?

 

Dave - ISY 26 and runing v2.6.0

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi Dave,

 

Apologies for a tardy reply.

 

All RL warning dialogs, including Restore, include the same instructions:

"Please simultaneously press and hold the Dim & Bright buttons on the RemoteLinc for 10 seconds (or till RemoteLinc's light starts flashing) and then click Ok"

 

In short, in order to write links into the RL using the API (to program the RL), one needs to put the RL in the programming mode which is explained above.

 

Linking mode multiple linking mode are used when you are manually programming your RL to other INSTEON devices. I am not sure what communications mode is.

 

Are you suggesting that after replacing your RL they are no longer losing battery quickly?

 

With kind regards,

 

I've been having a little trouble with a V2 Appliance Link (AL) turning itself on and off at rather peculiar times of the day for no apparent reason. I finally deduced that there was an X10 code (A2) assigned and the outside motion detecter was controlling the fan. (Grin)

 

In the process of doing a fatory reset of the AL, I lost control from my Remote Link (RL) to the device.

 

At first I was going to do a "Restore Devices" which warned to put the RL into "Programing Mode". As it had been a while since I had done this, I needed to refresh my memory on what to do to enter "Programing Mode". After reading through the short and the full RL Manual, I couldn't find and reference whatsoever to a "Programing Mode".

 

The manual does talk about a "Linking Mode" and also discusses a "multiple device linking mode".

 

In the past (way back when this thread started) I had used "Linking Mode" by pushing button 1 on and holding for 10 seconds thinking that this is the way to enter programing mode when doing a restore devices. It was after doing this a few times that I started having the battery problem which subsequently led to SH replacing my defective RL. Since replacing the RL, neither of my RL's has experience a rapid battery discharge problem.

 

As part of the repair to gain control of the RL over the AL, I realized that I needed to delete a scene. When I went to delete the scene, I was instructed to put the RL into "Communications Linc" by pressing the Dim and Bright buttons simultaneously. A whole different method of communicating with the RL from the ISY.

 

Now I'm wondering if there isn't some confusion on my part about the correct method that should be used to put the RL into "Programing mode" when doing a restore devices, and might this have something to do with causing the RL to start eating batteries?

 

Also, what is the difference between "Communications Mode, Programing Mode, Linking Mode, and Multiple Device Linking Mode?

 

Dave - ISY 26 and runing v2.6.0

[AnthemAVM]

Any news from Smarthome on this. I went into the showroom on Saturday, and the kid did not know how to do a refund. He said they did have problems and would have done the replacement.

 

It is weird, as I have two RemoteLinks and only one eats batteries.

 

Michael

[Sub-Routine]

I have three RemoteLincs, all obtained at different times, and none of them eat batteries.

 

Rand

[Michel Kohanim]

Hello Michael,

 

Unfortunately, nothing yet. The only thing I've heard is that "some" RLs do eat batteries regardless of the situation and replacement units take care of the problem.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

Any news from Smarthome on this. I went into the showroom on Saturday, and the kid did not know how to do a refund. He said they did have problems and would have done the replacement.

 

It is weird, as I have two RemoteLinks and only one eats batteries.

 

Michael

[Brian H]

Maybe they are not properly going in into Standby. I measured the battery current on one of mine and when active was about 23 to 25 miliammps. In standby; I got about 10 microamps; hard to tell as thet was the LSB of the lowest current range of my meter. Mine went into standby in maybe 15 seconds after last button pushed or the 4 minute time out; if in the programming mode

[NewTech]

I realize the dates of these posts has been a ways back but I too just returned a silver RemoteLinc due to battrery failure. The included batteries lasted only a few days and I just thought they were cheap batteries. I replaced them with some Duracell's I found in our junk drawer and when they went bad in about a week I thought maybe they were not fresh to begin with. After purchasing brand new battreries and replacing them I noticed something white on the back of the remote. Opening the battery cover said it all- the batteries were leaking and very warm (not hot) to the touch.

 

The folks at SmartHome sent me a new remote on an RMA and so far so good. The new one has been in service for about 3 weeks.

[andrew77]

Somewhere in this thread someone mentioned pulling a battery after linking or programming. It's worked for me.

I had the black remote and returned it way back for another black one.

As others have said, the battery issue myteriously goes away.

Drew