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I currently have a contact sensor to detect the garage door position, with the IO Linc. Is it true that with Security + 2.0, I no longer need that? The door position is signaled by the control board on the opener?

Found my problem listed above: I had not properly created the variable, so there was nothing there to find! Me and my "old age" problems......

I have 1wire temp sensors throughout the house, had been using them with owfs/owhttp with node server running on a RPi (which has a USB/1wire interface that the 1wire network connects to). These would feed into my prior 994.

Coincidence, I had a blackout today. PLM/X-10 wasn't responding, and this advice worked. Thanks!

Neither mobile app nor EISY (all latest revs) connect to devices./ SmartThings and Alexa find them. Error message Could not get Matter QR Code rendezvous Type for MT:YZ7A0G-E15F.0M0OZ10. 500 No luck with other Matter devices including TAPOS515D kit Sure would be nice if EISY worked.

I have been following this thread, trying to make Alexa speak to me when a gate is opened. But...when I click on "Variable" in the ISY portal, it says "State variables are note available". Any ideas?

I want to prepare my system for the migration to eisy. The instructions I have been given indicate I should start from a recent isy version before migration. I figured that activity could be initiated from UDI console Help button. I chose the only selection "Manually Upgrade Kelcher Smart Home" that came close. It appears it is a backup function. It appears the word Upgrade means Backup, right? My question is how do I download the most recent isy version of software. Any help is appreciated.

Probably best to open a support ticket on this one. If it came up after the power outage and showed was online when you checked the portal, but couldn't access it locally is probably a local network issue. Then you said you power cycled it and now UD Mobile said it was updating, but is/seems dead. Not sure how an update got triggered, but if you did pull the power during the update it could have corrupted the update. UD will need to try to see if you can get it started and working again. Open a support ticket here: https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets Please try to keep up with what is done to get this resolved and try to post back what gets you back up and running. Hopefully it's a "simple" issue.

Here's a good comment from @MrBill that I keep handy to suggest noise troubleshooting options: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/35216-programs-not-working/#comment-330289 Later in that thread he posts these wiki links: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON:_Troubleshooting_Communications_Errors https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_Signal_/_Noise_Troubleshooting https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_No_Status_Feedback_From_Devices The key to noise is it can be anything new OR old...can even be something that's randomly running (or not running) at the times you're testing (if it's inconsistent).

Sorry for the delay, I forgot to turn on notifications on this thread. Currently everything shows time of last car update was 4/26 14:14. Nothing since then. The car was driven today (4/28) for over an hour, and pretty much all of the data is not current. There are no "stream" type entries in the log file for today's drive. Of note, the commands always seem to work (start/stop charging, honk, etc.) so there is authenticated connectivity to the vehicle. I changed the log level to debug and restarted the plugin. I've DM'd the log from TeslaEVstream. Once the plugin was restarted some of the data updated (mileage, etc.) but not everything, for example it still shows the charger is engaged, but it's not (the vehicle isn't even at home). I also installed TeslaEVpwrSh into a different slot. I just went for a drive. Data in the TeslaEVpwrSh updated some data (but not all), and TeslaEVstream didn't record any changes.

That looks like a nice all-in-one package. I could make one that does the same thing for less than $100 including the Insteon switch, but if you don't want to be troubled . .. Of course you still have to install the thing so you kind of are already being troubled. The contactors for HVAC equipment would be perfect for this and are only about $10 and a nice waterproof j-box can be had for about $15. The make these j-box's with mounting plates in the back which is real nice so you can just screw down all your stuff with no fuss and have it look all nice and neat. It wouldn't have the switch on the outside though, you would have to open the door, but they come with hinged doors, so no big deal.

Rock solid. started out on the HA interface then moved to my EISY with the plugin. Using it for a couple of years now; I think. Long enough I don’t remember the last time I had to screw with the program. Depending on your abilities it can be finicky setting up the base unit but no touch after that.

I am considering switching to the ratdgo from Insteon IO Linc for reliability reasons. I am tired of having my garage door open by itself, due to "all on" events or other reasons. I currently have a lock out on my IO Linc that I activate when out of town, but that is not enough. My question is whether users have been satisfied with the reliability of the ratdgo from a security perspective. I have an eisy, Home Assistant/ESPHome, and HomeKit integration. I could just use HA with the ratdgo if introducing the node server would increase security concerns. But using the node server in addition would make program development easier. Are people using electronic lockouts with the ratdgo? Thoughts?

Thanks Guy, that's the doc I'm looking for. An unexpected requirement for snapping a card in half should have something from the manufactured describing the process. I snapped it off and it fit in the case. Related:

@alixer, when you performed the "restore device", was the ISY able to complete write the link table (no errors)? If this is the case, then your device has the correct PLM address and the scene information is incorrect. I say this because newer devices (I2CS units produced after 2012) will not allow the ISY to read/write to them unless the PLM address is in their link table. It may still be helpful is you could post your device link table, ISY device link table, and PLM address. The membership tree on the right is also helpful since it shows how many scenes the device is associated with. If your link table compare looks similar to mine above (no missing or mismatched entries) then the ISY believes the device has the correct link table/scene information. If the device does not respond correctly to a scene command (assuming that it received the command), then the ISY Link Table for the device is incorrect. The ISY maintains link tables for each Insteon device and for some reason, yours may have been corrupted. You can correct this by manipulating the device settings within the scene, causing a re-write to the device (as you are doing) OR your can restore the ISY from backup. Obviously, the backup may also have incorrect information, or be missing information on your more recent devices. If you do choose to restore a ISY backup, please follow with the process that @lilyoyo1 outlined above.

It's specified elsewhere, but you need to snap off the top half of the card before installing it in the enclosure.

Looking at the site and forum, I don't see a manual for inserting the ZMatter card and antennas into the case. The clearances for the antenna mounts are fairly tight. Even a couple of pictures would help. However the images on the ZMatter card in the store don't show the card and antenna leads installed. There's no document in the store under "Additional" and there was no insert in the package with the card or enclosure or QR code to docs. Hopefully Google and I are just missing it somewhere. If it's not documented by UD, would one of you have photos of the correct internal layout of the ZMatter card in the enclosure? Thx!

Thanks! Thats exactly what I was looking for. Purchase made!

Today, the main difference between Polisy and eisy are the hardware capabilities. On the software side, both are similar. However, one big difference is that some of the upcoming features will only be available on eisy: The matter-server, which allows to expose IoX devices to matter & homekit. The new eisy-ui service The new eisy-ui service will provide a unified access to IoX, PG3, and some of the portal features as well. It will also serve the new web UI which will allow you to have a web-based customizable dashboard-like UI. Eventually it will completely replace the java based admin console. Polisy will still benefits from updates to IoX and PG3, but new features like the matter-servert and eisy-ui service will only be available on eisy as it needs that extra power thar eisy provides.

This is perfect! Thanks

Yes it's been crazy with the holiday, preparing my current home to sell, buying a new home in another state and random family visits... But my family left today so I've made some fixes and released it to beta so I can test on my production system. Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

I'd start from the begining to ensure each step was followed correctly. Unplug Plm and isy. Note Plm Insteon address. Plug Plm in while holding the set button to factory reset. Once beeping stops, let go. Wait 30 seconds and plug isy into power. Verify new pom is showing in isy. Once done, go to file>restore plm>restore devices.

The iox launcher works fine w\o Internet, it launches the Isy finder. Is there a way for one shortcut to open admin console for a specific isy unit?

My son was in the same situation, so we made one using a 120v/240v contactor, a 120v zwave plugin switch and a small utility box all purchased on Amazon. Assembly took about an hour. We adjusted electrical cables to suit. I have an Enbrighten, functionally it's the same as we built. I saw those controllers but they looked so light weight for the amp load they're controlling. Interesting, thanks!

I installed an Insteon Heavy Duty 120-277V Load Controller Assembly 1470 from Innovative Home Systems to programmatically control when my pool filter runs. It works great. Mine has an oversized 40AMP relay, which should last a very long time. I also purchased the optional switch cover. https://innovativehomesys.com/products/wifi-heavy-duty-120-277-volt-40-amp-automated-load-transfer-assembly-1470 I chose the Insteon version since my Insteon environment has been rock solid for many years. But it's also available in Wi-Fi, Z-Wave and HomeKit versions if preferred. Here's a couple of pictures for reference.