palayman

A good question, although the finder had trouble finding my newest ISY until I fed it the address.

You must have a router to connect to the internet and provide the wireless you are probably using to get online and contact this forum. Typical address of you router is 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 . You will need to have the userid and password for this. If you can identify the type of router you have someone here can probably help you to find the dhcp table. Otherwise, take a pic and post to thread and someone will help.

Even if you can't get the admin console to work, you should be able to get into the isy directly from your browser. 1) Log into your router and look for the ip addresses assigned by your dhcp server. You should be able to find an address assigned to the ISY. 2) Type this address into you browser and the ISY web page should pop up. You will need the userid and password for the ISY. Default is admin/admin. 3) If this works your ISY is OK. From there type this address into the launcher after pushing the "ADD" button if doesn't show up on its own.

Was considering doing that, but sometimes the remote control via MyQ won't respond properly after the power outage until a local open/close event is initiated. Also, they're off for an extended period of time the internal battery dies and needs to be replaced. As part of my hacking I tried to find the FCCID for the wired remote pad. Unfortunately it says "FCCID N/A". This is strange. Now I have more questions about its actual operation. Need to look at the power lines to it with the Keypad disconnected. Maybe the signals are initiated at the Opener and the Keypad just "interferes" with them. Does anyone have a Liftmaster wired keypad with an actual FCCID on it? Paul

Yes, it seems like something you should be able to do through the app, but you can't.

Thought about about hacking the buttons as you suggest, but then new Liftmaster controls don't have just simple lock button. It is buried a couple of levels deep in a menu system using an LCD display. Could still accomplish as you suggest, but don't like doing it "open loop", in case something went wrong. Could end up opening the door instead of locking out the wireless remotes. I should try an older wired button to see if they are capable of locking out the remotes in parallel with the new one. The rest API is a good suggestion instead of the MQTT implementation.

Have some free time and am annoyed by the lack of control in the MyQ app. Would really like to schedule turning wireless remote access on and off from my ISY. You can do this from the wired keypad, but not from MyQ. Will probably use a Raspberry Pi and MQTT to talk to the MQTT node server. Have started snooping the signals from the Liftmaster wired remote and it doesn't look like there is any king of rolling code involved, but it will take some time to decode. Was wondering if anyone new if these signals had already been hacked? I'm more experienced hacking RF with RTL 433 or using the Universal Radio Hacker. Is there something similar for Simple low frequency serial signals like those on the keypad power lines? Many thanks, Paul

Only strange thing that happens for me is if I'm in one home and I ask to turn on a device that doesn't exist in that home, it seems to search the others and if it finds one that matches it turns it on. On the other hand, I have Kitchens in both and when I ask to turn on the kitchen lights it knows where I am.

In the portal click "My Profile" then give Alexa access to all ISY's. New devices will show up for second "home" in the Alexa app. You can assign home and room in the Alexa App. (or at least you can in the Google home app and I assume Alexa is similar).

I surmise he doesn't have access to the router.

Thanks MrBill!

Finally got around to installing some Insteon switches on the Fans in my bathroom. Created a little program to try and make sure they go off. Here is my simple program. If the light is switched off then it turns off the Fan (whether on or off) 2 minutes later. If the fan is turned on with the light already off, it does the same thing. Or so I thought. Unfortunately it doesn't work. Master Toilet Fan - [ID 0007][Parent 0008] If 'MBR / MBR Toilet Pots' is switched Off Or ( 'MBR / MBR Toilet Fan' is switched On And 'MBR / MBR Toilet Pots' Status is Off ) Then Wait 2 minutes Set 'MBR / MBR Toilet Fan' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I suspected some flaw in the If condition, so I split it into two programs and it works flawlessly. Powder Room Fan - [ID 0004][Parent 0008] If 'Powder Room / Powder Room Fan' is switched On And 'Powder Room / Powder Room Lights' Status is Off Then Wait 2 minutes Set 'Powder Room / Powder Room Fan' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Powder Room Fan 2 - [ID 000B][Parent 0008] If 'Powder Room / Powder Room Lights' is switched Off Then Wait 2 minutes Set 'Powder Room / Powder Room Fan' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Can someone explain the why one works and other doesn't? Is it because the condition is reevaluated when the light which is switched off actually changes status to Off? (I know there are obvious defects in the simple program, Fast On/Off etc.)

Oops, forgot the biggest reason for me. In a home I don't have any more I had a leak sensor in a sump. I wanted to know if the level got high enough to trip the sump pump. When it reset itself I could verify the sump pump had done its job. This not possible if you need to reset it yourself. I have switched to the wireless tag moisture sensors, but they are not optimal as they have non-replaceable batteries that don't last that long.

If the site is remote and you get someone else to do it, it may be nice for it to reset itself. This way you can confirm it has been looked after and you don't have to explain to someone how to reset it.

Like turning on all the lights in the house when my wife forgets to say which one. Would nice if you say "Hey Google, undo my last command."

You could turn off all the breakers in the house except for the circuit with the fan just to see if works on its own.

Is there an FCC ID on the fan control? Looking up the test results using the ID would give you a better idea about protocol the switch is using.

And if someone unplugs the remote control light associated with the opener it won't let you operate it using myq either. Found out the hard way. MyQ has some other missing features like being able to turn off remote operators.

You may want to try Add New Insteon Device but instead of auto discover put it the device type, 2635-222, as well as the ID. This worked for someone in the past.

Yes, I use these guys a lot for my house near you. Somewhere warm right now so I need to use a US source.

Just tried to buy some dimmers. Out of stock on smarthome and amazon. Just need 5 more to finish off my new house. Hope I don't have to cannibalize my old place to do it.

Anyone using the Leviton ZW4SF-1BW fan controller. Don't think this was available when the last post to this thread was made. Only $49.99 so seems like a good value over the GE which goes for about $99. Paul

Don't want to hijack this thread but, has anyone else noticed that the color temp of back light of a 2334-2 6 button dimmer changed from v43 to v44. Had to rearrange a bunch to get adjacent dimmers to have the same color. V44 looks a lot cooler than v43 and of course the brightness levels are way different. Paul

Glad I spotted this thread. Didn't work the way I assumed. I have 3 ISY's, each in a different home. Created 3 unique users, each with a different preferred ISY. Thought I would use the appropriate one to associate with each home. Obviously didn't work. One question, how do you get programs associated with the correct home? Paul

@Michel Kohanim Is the green light a problem?