palayman

Actually, overcooling is why I have installed the whole house dehumidifier. AC's are designed to cool air with dehumidification being a side product. Whole home dehumidifiers are optimized differently. Idea is to keep humidity down without breaking the bank on cooling. Yes 55% is high for summer outside of Owen Sound, but it is what is necessary to keep a home safe when you're not there. Cheers, Paul

After much additional research and deliberation I went with a couple of the Venstar's with a remote stat in the MBR. Working well and the interface seems fine although some of the documentation is a bit lacking. Now I'm adding a whole home Dehumidifier. This is all in a vacation home in Central Florida. Trying to figure the optimal operation of the three systems to keep the humidity around 55% and the temperature reasonable when we are not here. Was thinking about just running the Dehumidifier 24/7 set to 55% and cooling the house a bit in the early morning when the outside air temp is lowest and AC units will be most efficient. Will probably run the fans intermittently as well. Does anyone else have any advice? Paul

@marcin What kind of electronic latch are you using?

You could put some kind of bluetooth device in the car and use the presence polyglot. It provides some range (signal strength) info and I there was talk about be able use more than one Rpi to triangulate the signal.

You probably don't want to add the filter to the Insteon switches. You need to place the filters as close to the offending load as possible, on the line side of the load. They will attenuate any noise in the frequency band used by the Insteon switches generated by the offending loads. So if the offending load is for example a LED floodlight controlled by the Insteon switch, put it in the electrical box used by the LED floodlight.

Decided to make use of this feature for the first time. Seems to work OK but doesn't block users posts from appearing in the Activity/All Activity page. @Michel Kohanimis there a way to accomplish this?

I tried those and they seemed to dim well and not flicker. Problem I had was the crown disperses most light up or horizontally. I have several chandeliers that are 15 feet or so off the ground intended to light my foyer etc. Not much light directed down, so it was pretty dim despite there being 10 or 12 bulbs in the fixture. Has anyone gotten their hands on any of the Dubai bulbs? They have 4 times as many LED's per Lumen to run really cool and a better voltage regulator circuit. A Dubai government mandate. Would be interesting to see how they dim. https://www.mea.lighting.philips.com/consumer/dubai-lamp

Just built a new house and tried every brand I could find at home depot and lowes. Dimmers are 2477d's. I ended up buying a bunch of these from amazon. Perhaps they don't dim down the lowest, but no flickering for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ7ZJXV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details Paul

I also just got CO. Had to put in some regular switches since I am missing 2 - 2477d's. Thought I found them on amazon but got 2474dwh by mistake and they are of no use to me. Funny when you search "insteon 2477d" the 2474dwh are the first ones returned and I didn't notice. I was wondering if we could build some artificial demand on smarthome by having a bunch of people sign up to notified when the 2477d's come back in stock. Any other sources besides used ones on ebay? Paul

Just put in my first Z-wave devices, all GE. Had trouble getting the ISY to add them until someone suggested connecting them to short extension cord and adding them all to the ISY is close proximity to it before installing them in their final location. This worked great for me.

So tried turning the ISY around so the bottom was now facing my switch. It was added! Go figure. Now I just need to figure out why it added 8 nodes.

Don't see this in the menu. See network wide search, which was already on, but nothing about inclusion? My zwave version is 6.82.01 .

Thanks, tried but it didn't see it to remove it. I thought 15 ft would be close enough. How close to the first device do I need to locate the first device?

New ISY pro with 5.3.0 firmware mounted vertical more or less facing the switch I'm trying add about 15 ft away. Z-wave module activated. Tried to add new Z-wave device in admin panel. Pop-up says it's listening Touched a button on the GE Enbrighten Z-wave switch . Nothing happens. Try buttons several more times. Nothing happens. Suggestions on what I am doing wrong? Paul

That would annoy me. I don't think of 2 seconds as the same time. I don't want to sense any difference between the 20 or so outside lights I have on at dusk.

If you look at the confidentiality request with the FCC filing you see that it expires on the release date 3/10/2021. Won't have to wait long to see if it is real.

They actually have some interesting stuff in recent (last year) FCC filings including a new PLM. Will be very interesting if they deliver.

I was under the impression, perhaps wrongly, that the finder only accesses the correct admin console if you are connected to the internet. The one I suggested will always be correct. Paul

https://your isy ip address/admin.jnlp

It's time for me to pick up a couple of thermostats to work with my ISY. Have heard a lot of negative things about the Insteon ones. Am seriously considering Ecobee, but don't want to be in the same position I am with my MyQ garage doors. The MyQ nodeserver uses an unpublished API that changed recently resulting in a nodeserver that currently doesn't work. No fault of the developer. Is the Ecobee noderserver based on a published API? If not, is there another thermostat that is? Have some Z-wave devices, so that is also an option. Thanks in advance, Paul

Your idea about turning off breakers in the barn is a good one. Any recent changes to devices in the barn, LED lights, motors, etc. would be suspect. I recently changed out a Halogen flood for an LED one. I could still turn the light on, but couldn't turn it off. LED ballast made too much noise.

Same thing happened to me when I replaced a couple of halogen floodlights with LED's that had large electronic ballasts.

Have a couple of these Zooz devices on my sump pumps. Very happy with them. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item

Chrome wouldn't let me in. Getting this error from Chrome: forum.universal-devices.com normally uses encryption to protect your information. When Google Chrome tried to connect to forum.universal-devices.com this time, the website sent back unusual and incorrect credentials. This may happen when an attacker is trying to pretend to be forum.universal-devices.com, or a Wi-Fi sign-in screen has interrupted the connection. Your information is still secure because Google Chrome stopped the connection before any data was exchanged. You cannot visit forum.universal-devices.com right now because the website uses HSTS. Network errors and attacks are usually temporary, so this page will probably work later. Ideas? Had to use MIcrosoft edge to get in after it warned me as well.

So is it plugged in now? What kind of router?