gatchel

The Elk M1 has one form C relay on the main board. 8 Relays can be added to the main board directly with an M1RB. A combination of 16 Outputs can be added by installing a M1XOV to the databus. It will give you 16 Low current outputs that can do things like power other M1RB's or LEDs. If you need form C relays then use an M1XOVR which will give you 8 relay outputs with 8 low voltage outputs that can do things or trigger another M1RB for 16 relays total. gatchel, Agreed, I am currently using the ELK-M1RB. I do believe this can be programmed to do what I want, do you agree? Agreed. The Rb relay will work to control a garage door. Getting the KPL button to work the same may take some creative programming but I think it is doable.

The Elk M1 has one form C relay on the main board. 8 Relays can be added to the main board directly with an M1RB. A combination of 16 Outputs can be added by installing a M1XOV to the databus. It will give you 16 Low current outputs that can do things like power other M1RB's or LEDs. If you need form C relays then use an M1XOVR which will give you 8 relay outputs with 8 low voltage outputs that can do things or trigger another M1RB for 16 relays total.

If you have only one device to monitor an input/control with a relay then the Elk may be the more expensive way to do it. In the long run if you plan on controlling more devices the Elk would be the cleaner way to do it. I currently have 6 relays out of 16 available on my Elk controlling different things. 6 IOLincs at 46.00 each gets very pricey for their very limited functionality. You can do the same with an input direct to an M1 with an output wired to the door controller. I also trust an Elk panel lot more than I trust an Insteon Device. Elk's are backed up with batteries. What happens when the power goes out? Does your Water ShutOff Valve still work properly, I doubt it...In other words Elk is a more robust solution that is designed to reliably do what it's supposed to do. The cost per input / output goes down very quickly if you plan on doing other low voltage monitoring and switching with an Elk. Really you have to decide to invest for the future now before ending up with a bunch of used plug-in relay devices that aren't worth much second hand. Either way will work fine to open a garage door, unless someday there some sort of bug in the PLM that turns on all of your lights and opens your garage door while you at work, that could be really bad...

I would never use anything other than "security devices" on a security system. Using I/OLinc's and other powerline based devices or even battery operated devices that aren't supervised can be defeated by simply pulling your meter for the most part. With a security panel you get better reliability, a central back up for power, and many other things that are needed.

Got it. I was only mentioning it because RS485/422 can go 4000' if you need it

Same thoughts here, the problem exists only when the load carrying switch is under load. Is was alluded to in maddbomber83's post above but since this is a 3 way did you try swapping the switch locations to make the other switch the one with the load on it? If changing bulbs doesn't affect anything, this is the next logical step to isolate the problem

Isn't the data RS-232 for comms to the PLM? If it is you could try using converters at each end if the long cable doesn't work. If you convert the data to RS422 4 wire you will get better reliability with RS422 as it is a balanced communication with has noise rejection properties when using twisted pair cabling. I can elaborate if you like. This is all in theory, of course, I haven't tested it personally.

Is it also possible that the wiring circuit that supplies the switches runs through the attic at any point? Maybe there is another branch of the circuit that is near the detector antenna. Just guessing here but I don't think it would have anything to do with being a 3 way as I don't believe that the switches keep communicating with each other or with the rest of the system once the levels are set. When you say 3 way you are referring to the linking of the switches as a virtual 3-way, right? In other words, you don't have them mis-wired somehow do you? (Just had to ask to be sure)

Edited for content... Most things other than raw txt files format horribly with notepad. Try Excel or openoffice "Calc". It may look better.

Good one...Didn't think of that possibility.

I have several of the HomeDepot EcoSmart (LSG) 125 watt equivalent LED lights. I have them on a Switchlinc or two, and also on a Togglelinc. They are dimmable and they dim very well. No problems as of yet.

Sonos, Hue, tons of radios for wireless technologies; These are awesome features to have. I also thought about this as an option but I really don't need the extra capacity as I am mostly insteon with some z-wave at this point. All of which ISY handles pretty well, even in beta. Also, they are being secretive about their extra 3 radios that are installed for whatever reason. I want to know exactly what I am buying when making a purchase like this, not disclosing the technology of those 3 radios is shady at best, as far as I'm concerned.

Anyone care to share an explanation or a link? I'm up for some good reading about the evolution of Insteon / ISY devices...

I would factory default the switch and restore it from ISY.

Good to see that two things haven't changed much

While I can appreciate the Morninglinc for being the first lock to integrate with insteon, I didn't purchace it originally because of just that, it was linked only to insteon. I went with a Kwikset Zwave unit. Even on the Beta, the front door, the closest to the ISY work like a charm. I have another Kwikset Z-wave deadbolt on my detached garage that works but doesn't respond and update the status in ISY. This is, I believe, a range / routing issue that may be fixed in a future release. If for some reason I decide to change gears on controllers or sell the locks, z-wave has much more flexibility than the morninglinc. (Don't plan on ever changing at this point if UDI keeps up their ways) I also emailed the manufacturer about having a Kwikset core in the lock and they didn't support them at the time. I'm not sure if this is still the case. My vote would be to support the Z-wave add on to the ISY.

Not with an ISY but I have seen other scenarios where people didn't take the time to implement basic security measures with IP cameras and other IP based devices. Lesson learned, I hope. Personally what I see is a bit childish and funny but other might take offense to your pic, just an FYI. At least ISY doesn't store your Credit Card for anything...

You would have to determine the resistance of the lighting button when it is pressed. Then you would have to create a dry contact using an insteon relay device to pulse that same resistance to the control panel using a relay wired in parallel to the opener. If you have a "Smart" control panel that has the time, temp, and can program transmitters without going to the opener then you will have to wire directly to the tact switch that is under the light control button. The problem here is this, how does the relay device know when the light is on of off? From what I can see from your question, it wouldn't. A pulse could turn it on of off at the wrong time and them if could also be out of sync if someone uses the light button on the GDO controller without some sort of monitoring. You would be better off installing a Garage door contact and monitoring when the door opens. You could then use a program to turn on the swithclinc lights that already exist as your GDO lights.

Unless you are going to spend money on Medeco or some other higher end you are vulnerable. Even Medeco has flaws. Security is nothing more than a level of deterrent, that is all. You chose the lock you like/want and they'll still kick in the door.

Obviously I did based on my responses of "It's very simple to defeat and hopefully Kwikset modifies future versions." Goodbye, troll. Sorry if I hurt your little feelings....just trying to clarify some facts so that people know what picking and forcing are as they are not the same. Troll, how original!

No. Locks are to keep out lazy and unskilled thieves, which is a large percentage. The ability to pick locks is very limited that's why locks have some level of effectiveness. They force most burglars to break a window or door which is even easier but draws attention to their efforts. I guess this is where I have to disagree. For starters, if you click the link in the first post (I'm guessing you haven't) there is NO picking going on. It doesn't get any lazier or more unskilled than that entry method that was used. Search the videos where the Smartkey locks are forced by using a cut off key and a screwdriver with a pair of vise Grips. You can spin the lock to unlock and spin it back with almost no visible signs that the door was forced.

Anything residential or even light commercial is able to be picked. Lock are to keep out the honest people only. If you think your Z-wave or Bluetooth or other type of lock isn't flawed somewhere, you are sadly mistaken.

The cleanest way would be a zone controller like a Taco ZVC-404 of similar. You would wire the thermostats in to the zone controller, they would wire to your zone valve(s) and the ZVC would also have an output (dry contact) that would control your boiler/circulator. You have to investigate a few things: Do the Insteon thermostats require power from the thermostat 24vac wiring or are they powered separately. If the require power, I would suggest testing this first with a small group of devices before going crazy. They might not work or my require additional help to get parasitic power to the thermostats. Can you get wires from the thermostat and the zone valves to a central location. Usually these zone controllers are located in the boiler room. You also may be able to wire it the "old fashioned" way using the same zone valves and a 24vac transformer per 3 zone valves/thermostats (Assuming Taco Zone valves). This was would be a bit more cumbersome and less clean looking. See the wiring note on page 3 of this document: http://www.houseneeds.com/upload/pdf/ta ... iescat.pdf This document has several wiring examples. Most of the ZVC and zone valve controls begin on page 29. http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLi ... 00-9.0.pdf

Proceed at your own risk. If you burn you house down, it's your fault.... That being said, I would use a meter and investigate the wiring between the receiver and the gas control valve. There is a possibility that a dry contact may give you all the control you need. The green wire and/or the white wire might be of importance.

I use tzo which is now dyn also...