gatchel

Have you considered maybe an M1 EZ8 instead of the M1 Gold? You are going to be very limited with other panels that aren't directly supported right now. Also base your decision on what is available now, today...not what might be coming in the future. That way you won't be disappointed. I believe there is DSClinc to help interfacing with DSC panels but I know nothing about it. I believe it has to run on a PC from what I have read. I may even have the name slightly wrong... Edit: Here is the DCSLink: viewtopic.php?f=58&t=4642

Right there with you...

Try some of the steps listed here: http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... _Flowchart

Are you hiding something from us.....??

This really only applies to Remotelinc's and controllinc's, right?

I would confirm the latest NEC codes with regards to soldering connections on 120v circuits. NEC 110.14 B says that you have to mechanically connect them first before soldering.

Reliability, simplicity, no batteries. Anytime you connect a wire (and that goes for any technology, not just alarms) your system is more stable and secure. Don't forget that you can troubleshoot with a meter on a wired setup, too...

That is another good point. Maybe you can "very temporarily" retrofit in a "load" at the connection points where your KPL is wired in. A 60 watt incandescent lamp or other load will be sufficient to determine if there is a loose connection that won't allow the KPL to maintain power. If you can successfully power a lamp, there should be plenty of connection stability to power a KPL with no load. Taking a voltage measurement while the KPL or lamp load is connected will be the end of your troubleshooting. If you have good voltage under load then the switches are probably bad. (Disclaimer)If you are not comfortable with this get an electrician to help(Disclaimer) Just a thought.

I did a search over on smarthome.com/forums for "keypadlinc problem" (No quotes) your issue may not be the only one: http://www.smarthome.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9388 I'd do some more research and if you plan on RMA'ing the switches DON'T take them apart. ...maybe the buzzing noise you are hearing is something arcing inside the switch. Anything is possible...

I'd check the power in your house on different circuits to make sure it is stable and there isn't an issue with your neutral on your incoming feed. Have you had any lights getting brighter randomly or any light bulbs burning out more often than usual? If not then you are probably good. I'd RMA them if they are still under warranty. If they aren't under warranty I'd call them anyway...

Or there is a problem with them out of the box...let's not eliminate other possibilities just yet. Smarthome has a less than perfect production rating A voltage measurement would be the next logical step, maybe while measuring voltage turn on and off some 240v appliances like a dryer.

Typically yes. Unless the white has been re-purposed as a hot wire and it goes to a breaker. It should be marked with tape somehow. Since you said that it's all in conduit I don't see this being done, but anything is possible. Essentially it sounds like these switches are just controllers of sorts with no load. What voltage are you getting between the white and yellow wires? If there is no load and you properly capped the load wires from the switches then its bad switches or you have some sort of voltage issue that's burning them up.

I believe it is.

Previously there was false reporting of temperatures that were not actual temperature sensors on the elk system. One of them was on my fire zone and the other was on a keypad that does NOT have a built in temperature sensor. Now, those two issues are fixed. Unfortunately the temperature sensor on my front door keypad which was showing a proper temp previously because it actually has a temperature sensor is now showing "--" instead of the temperature.... Is this intended? I found that if you click query temperature it will show the actual temperature at the keypad ( found this by accident) but if you click query temp on the other "keypads" I get the -40 that we had before. Was the reporting actually fixed or was it changed to just not show the temp unless queried? I believe that the M1-KP (and KPB) are the only keypads with a built in temperature sensor. The KP2, KP3, PAS, NAV all are keypads but they don't have temperature sensors. I also have a P212s power supply that is supervised like a keypad but there is no temperature sensor on this device either.

Yep. Checked it out. 3.1.14 for both versions in the about screen. I did clear java after updating. I also just installed java on my win 7 machine and the same thing is happening there.

My fire zone still shows a temperature of -60. My system keypads without temperature sensors show -40. Otherwise everything still works so far

Completely off topic but, How does a higher rating of a dimmer take the project out of a "DIY" category. Are there some special secret wires that only the pro's know about?

Installed. A few things I noticed: I have a M1KP2 and A P212S. To the elk system they are keypads but neither of them have temperature sensors. UNder the keypads tap they show -40 degrees. Also on input 15 i have a M1ZTSR temp sensor. The temp is correct. On input 16 of the M1 I have a fire zone shows -60 degrees. Under config-elk-config the refresh topology is greyed out. Is this only available after a change has been made to the M1 programming or should it be available all of the time. I haven't made any changes on the ELk programming since upgrading from 3.1.12 to 3.1.13. Edit: I logged out and cleared java cache again and now the refresh topology is visible.

It still exports to a file. If your file is automatically being opened by IE click on file, Save as, save the file. Open RP import the file.

I also think LED bulbs will be a good fit here. If you live in certian areas you can get LED 60 watt replacement bulbs for $10 to $15 at the big box stores. The actual draw is like 10 or 12 watts.

If my memory serves me correctly, I think the cable is just a standard 9 pin to 9 pin null modem cable. You can use a standard cable with a null modem adapter or they make specific null modem cables. Radio shack usually carries the, or maybe try a micro center if there is one near you. If you have a bunch of cables and a multimeter check from pin 2 on one end to pin 3 on the other. If it's a null modem you will have continuity. (0 Ohms). You can use a paper clip or a cotter pin to insert into the pin holes. A straight cable will be pin 2 to pin 2, etc.

In IE try file...Save as...see if that works. The file extension should be .xml, I think.

I had the same problem. I upgraded to 3.1.12 from 2.8.16 and noticed that the Elk status bar at the top of the Admin console was gone. After several different troubleshooting steps I decided to purchase the Elk module anyway. After installing the elk module, still no communication with the elk. To make a long story short. I NEEDED to put a valid Elk keypad code in the Elk setup area. In 2.8.16 this was not necessary. After typing in the code and saving, I clicked on the Elk tab and after a second or two all of my Elk panel zones, area, outputs, etc were able to be viewed. I was able to turn on and off some outputs as a test. This is all I have tested so far. It seems to work so far... Edit: I currently have an Elk zone status triggering a program in the ISY. No elk rules needed! This is going to be great for those few Elk owners that are low on Elk memory, a great value for $99 retail.

Just when you think you've got it, you see a post about adding variables...back to the drawing board....(I mean this in a good way of course)

For some reason the UDI Web Console does not work for me - I just see a "blank" console screen and never get a logon prompt. Try turning off any firewalls or antivirus on the UDI web console issue. I had the same issue and this fixed the problem.