apostolakisl

For a fool proof way to push something off for 24 hours, use the ISY day of week function. Set a variable on boot or at midnight to set a variable to the current day of week (1 for Mon, 2 for Tues, etc). If On Mon Time is 12:00:01AM Then $iDay.of.Week = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') etc for each day of week Then your program that pushes something off to the next day has a new variable that says add 1 to the current value (and roll over an 8 to a 1). If whatever you want to trigger the 24 hour delay Then $sTomorrow = $iDay.of.Week $sTomorrow += 1 (or 2, 3 ,4, 5, 6 if you want to push something off more than 1 day into the future) $sTomorrow Init to $sTomorrow Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') If $sTomorrow > 7 Then $sTomorrow -= 7 $sTomorrow init to $sTomorrow Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Then you use that variable as being equal to the current day of week variable in your "if" clause of whatever it is that is going to happen the next day. If $iDay.of.Week is $sTomorrow and Time is ? Then do whatever Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') You could use the same program to push something off 2 days or more up to a max of 6 days.

This program '15 minute timer' get the ball rolling. At 8pm it will start trying to arm after 15 minute wait If Time is 8:00:00PM Then Enable program 'motion detector' Wait 15 minutes Set Elk Area 'Main House' Arm Night Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This program 'motion detector' will look for the motion detector to activate. If it does, it will start the 15 minutes over again. If Control 'motion detector' is switched On Then Run Program '15 minute timer' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This program will cause the auto arm program to stop, in my example by disarming your system. You could have something else do it. If Elk Area 'Main House' 'Armed State' is Disarmed Then Stop program '15 minute timer' Disable program 'motion detector' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

This is what I use to warn my kids that their bedroom light is about to turn off. Their bedroom lights shut off after 30 minutes if left alone. During the last minute, the switch beeps to warn them once per second. If they take any action on the light switch it aborts and starts over again. If Control 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' is switched On Or Control 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' is switched Fast On Or Control 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' is switched Fade Up Or Status 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' is not Off Then Wait 29 minutes Repeat 60 times Set 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' 130 (Beep Duration) Wait 1 second Repeat 1 times Set 'Lauren Bedroom / Lauren BR-Overhead L' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Back to your original post. I never have any troubles with SH when it comes to returning stuff that is broken and inside of warranty. They really have never given me a hard time. Except, if I didn't buy it directly from them. So I only buy direct from them. Plus when they do the 20% sales with free shipping they are cheapest available anyway. In the past few years there stuff doesn't seem to be breaking though.

What do you mean unfortunately not? Does not the zwave radio give ISY control and integration of zwave devices? EDIT: Wait, I think you meant only UBE.

With zwave and possibly ube on the horizon for ISY users, I think things should be just fine. If you want to move away from Insteon, because of the capabilities of ISY, transitioning to one of these other 2 technologies should not be painful and will be something that can be done gradually.

You need something to turn it on and off. Unless you want to just go to the UD console and click "run then" to start it and "stop" to stop it. But I assume you would rather have a switch, or a kpl, or something in the room to start and end the program. You don't put the appliance line in the "if" section. The appliance linc has no on/off switch. That is how they work, you use other things to control them.

If control switched on (Whatever switch you want to control this) and control not switched off Then repeat every 15 minutes Set appliance linc on wait 15 minutes set appliance linc off Else - - -

I had the same problem when I was adding a new 2477D last week. I power cycled ISY and then it worked. But it sounds like my experience was not unique, so perhaps there is an underlying bug?

It sounds like ievery.other.day.counter is working correctly since it sounds like it is only irrigating every other day. You might just check to be certain that indeed the variable is alternating 0/1 at midnight every day. Check your program summary page for any programs that run or are running at 3:00 and 3:15. This should narrow done the potential culprit.

Here is a solution. This is all predicated on whether you can fit an inline linc into the fixture's box. The one that has no neutral at the switch has a "switch loop" of wire going to the wall's switch box. Hot/Neutral and Load (obviously) must all be at the fixture's box. At the fixture: 1) Install an inline linc picking up the hot/neutral/load 2) Splice hot to one of the 2 wires going to the switch 3) Splice neutral to the other wire At the switch 1) Use white or black tape as needed to indicate the hot/neutral status of the two wires as per how you hooked them up at the fixture 2) Install a switch linc using only the hot and neutral, cap the load wire 3) Linc the switchlinc to the in-line linc with the switchlinc as a controller In ISY 1) Create a scene which includes all of the devices in the basement as responders only 2) Write a program that turns that scene off whenever the "exit" switch is control switched off

So it sounds like you have 3 switches that each independently control their own set of light fixtures and each is the only switch controlling their respective fixtures. I was hoping that the one without a neutral was part of a 3-way circuit where you could re-purpose one of the conductors. It also sounds like you want to turn the 3 separate switches controlling 3 separate sets of light fixtures into a 4-way situation where you have 3 switches which simultaneously are controlling all of the light fixtures. If indeed this is the case, you may have a simple task of rewiring, if you have attic above the lights. It may be a simple matter of jumping your load wire from one fixture to the fixture whose switch has no neutral (you should also jumper the neutral since they aren't on the same circuit). If both of these fixtures are in a ceiling with attic over the top, then running that wire is going to be a quick and easy job. After picking the load and the loads neutral up from one of the other switches, the 2 wires going to the switch without the neutral can be re-purposed to hot/neutral. You won't need a load wire to the switch anymore since that will be coming from the other fixture.

If you could be more specific on what wires you do have at each location, it may be possible to do this. It sounds like all 3 locations are not wired up to control the fixture as a 4 way in the conventional sense. Are 2 or them together as a 3 way? What is the the last location controlling at present if not this fixture? Which ones have the neutral? What does the location that does not have a neutral actually have?

I have several harmony remotes all of which are controllers for ISY. First off, you need the ISY with IR. If you don't have that one, I would look into seeing if you can trade up. Other options exist, but this is the best. Logitech already has ISY in its Harmony database. Add the ISY to your Harmony along with the 40 pre-configured IR codes that Logitech knows for ISY. You will need to have your Harmony in line of sight with the ISY, or if you have the Harmony with the extenders, then you can use the extender to control ISY. Then it is a simple matter of adding ISY IR commands to your activities on the Harmony, and programming the ISY to respond to those IR commands by setting your scenes. The other option is to get the Insteon IR receivers. I tried one of those a while ago and it didn't work for a damn, so I returned it. I have my Harmony setup to control my alarm Elk alarm system as well as lots of lights that I might want. Like I can shut off the kitchen lights when the kids leave them on, or turn the front door lights on when someone rings the bell.

The key point is basically that the on/off switchlinc is a dry contact relay. Many types of loads can be damaged by triac dimmers, like florescent, motors, and other electronics. What Xathros says is true, except for the part about cheaper. The on/off relay costs the same as the dimmer ($49.99). I'm not sure what he is referring to, maybe the non-dual band, but I'm not sure they make those anymore.

Agreed. I have mine set to 120 which results in about a 90% hot to cold mix. Also is less risky for the kids. I have seen some of the tankless units allow recirc pumps and still warranty the device, but only if you added a holding tank. Kind of defeats the purpose though.

I have to wonder about your tankless heaters if they will shut off during a shower. Ours turns on for even small amounts of water, washing your hands for example even with the flow rate on low. I might suggest taking a drill and opening up the flow restrictor on your shower heads. It probably would be cheaper than running the recirc pump and make for much nicer shower experience. Also, recirc pumps void the warranty on many if not most tankless hot water heaters. Once the hot water makes the full loop a couple tmes the returning water barely needs to be heated which results in lots of cycling of the burners.

First off, you need to add the "run program line" to keep this program looping until the clock runs out IF $pump_run_time > 0 THEN turn pump outlet on decrement $pump_run_time wait 1 min Run Program (this one) if clause ELSE turn pump outlet off But I am confused as to why you want the pump to run for 30 minutes or 60 minutes after it is triggered by someone pushing the button. Isn't the point of an on demand pump to run just long enough to get water to the faucet and then shut off? I would think it should take only a few seconds depending on pump size and distance. Either that or you run the pump continuously during the times when it might be used. Like at your typical wake up time and your go to bed time. That way there is no need to do anything to trigger the pump, the hot water will be there during those times regardless of use. Or maybe some combo of both.

If the washer has an indicator light that is on during the wash, or that turns on at the completion of the wash, you can put a photocell over the light to indicate when the wash is done. Someone described that on cocoontech as well.

As Lee said, yes. Enable/Disable only changes the programs ability to self trigger an evaluation of the 'if' clause. And I see where the right click/status is, it is just bringing up that summary screen I was referring to, but it does also highlight the program you were on.

I'm not sure what you mean by "I monitor the program with the 'status' option". In ISY, on the program summary page, you can see the "activity" of a program as running or idle, status tells you if it last ran true or false. There is no reason that your program would be in a loop, at least not from what you've shown here. Unless you have some other program that you are not showing that keeps causing the one shown to keep running. And a violation of a zone is a trigger for a program containing that zone's status in the "if" section. I don't know that ISY checks Elk or if Elk pushes updates to ISY. My guess is it is the latter since there is no appreciable delay between something on Elk happening and ISY responding, at least in my house. Is the second program disabled? I see you calling it from the first program, which would not make a lot of sense since the first program would run while you are still in the driveway pushing the homelink button. I am also pretty sure you don't want the Elk to say "welcome home" every single time you open that door. If I am guessing what you want, when you arrive home and hit your homelink button, you want the alarm to say welcome when you open the door for the first time after disarming the system. Then after that you don't want the message. So what you need to do is. Elk: Kitchen Entry - Welcome If Elk Zone 'Kitchen Entry' is Violated Then Set Elk Speak Word 'Welcome' Set Elk Speak Word 'Home' *****Disable Program 'Elk: Kithcbe Entry - Welcome'***** Else ***** What is this else clause for? ***** Wait 5 minutes Run Program 'Elk: Kitchen Entry - Welcome' (If) If Status 'X10 Bridge - 0 / 1E.7B.6B.1' is 100% Then Set Scene 'Garage Door Operations (R)' On Set Scene 'Arrive Home' 100% Set 'X10 Bridge - 0 / 1E.7B.6B.1' Off Set Elk Area 'Area1' Disarm *****Enable Program 'Elk: Kitchen Entry - Welcome' ****** Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I agree. I started to do it once a while back and couldn't get it figured out.

You definitely misunderstood its fully supported and not a linux thing. I'm doing it with my Raspberry Pi now for my Hue integration. You can see status changes, variable changes, etc. With the 4.x alpha you can get control events as well. What I meant by Linux, is that it is an OS thing. For example, the Elk can't subscribe, you must have the Elk module. Webcontrol can't enroll, and there is no module.

Well, we'll see what Michel says. I may be wrong. Perhaps you can run something like a java console that gets updates as things change. Working with Michel and Wayne on getting the webcontrol unit linked, this was not possible, but with linux, you might have more options.

You can't do that. Only UD can do that by writing it into the firmware. What you can do is write programs that use the network module to send one of the various types of IP commands (like GET,POST,etc). But they have fixed content, so you would need an individual program for each value of each variable you wanted to send. The best way to do this might be to get your raspberry pi to query the ISY using the REST interface to get the values. Of course this relies on the rasberry pi knowing when it needs to ask. It might be that you do some combination of the above two. ISY could send a single command to rasberry pi informing it that it needs to ask for the variable values. One big program with all the variables listed in the "if" section where they are state variables, so anytime one changes, it sends a message to rasberry pi which then queries ISY?