apostolakisl

I have been playing with this itach and couldn't get it to work. I kept gettig errors. Then I tried appending with "\r\n" (not the ,\r,\l as listed above) as the gc 100 wiki says and that worked! I haven't a clue what any of this stuff means, why it is there, or anything. Just utterly clueless!

I can't figure out what else to delete to get Java to use the 2.8.4 version. I went through the Java control panel and looked under every tab and setting screen I could find and deleted everything I could find. I also tried acessing through touch switch admin button and I get the ISY console without 2876db support.

Yes, that was what I meant by "trying the URL you listed". It only works using this url. Using the regular method of just putting the local IP address gives me the same console but without full 2876db support. The following URL does work. http://www.universal-devices.com/99i/2.8.4/admin.jnlp I am just confused on how this is different than the other way of accessing the Java console. I did clear my Java temporary internet files and the first time I ran the console after clearing those files it did do the much longer load time with the little java loading clock showing presumably indicating that it was reloading all of the files. I can still load the java console the other way (my ip/admin) and even have both open at the same time. The my ip/admin continues to not have the 2876db support even open side by side with the .jnlp opened console.

OK, using the URL you listed works. I am confused, what is this new URL doing? It appears to be using Java very differently but brings up the identical appearing console.

Yes, I opened the Java from control panel and clicked on delete all temporary files. I log on by going to my local URL and it brings up the Java interface. http://192.168.1.9/admin I just did this on a different computer as well and the results continue to be unchanged.

I upgraded to 2.8.4. No change. When I switch the drop down programming "if" menu from "status" to "control", all of the new 2876db items vanish. Of note: I also replaced the icon relays (2876sb v.39). These do not have the problem. The show up in both "status" and "control" menu (new ones and old ones).

Here is one of the new 2876db's that doesn't work - 16 43 BC 1 Alexis BR/Overhead 30795 1.30.57.0 true G08 And here is one of the older 2876db switches which are supposedly the same thing but does work. - 3 6E 83 1 Game Room/Coach L 59423 1.3.38.0 false F05 <

- 30795 Alexis Room

Icon 2876db v.39 dimmer switches. In writing programs, you can not do the following: if control 'icon switch xyz' is switched on All of the 2876db switches simply do not exist in the drop down menu. They do exist for the status drop down menu. I still have a couple of the older 2876db's and they are on the drop down menu. Interestingly, the ISY calls them 2876d3's even though they are supposedly 2876db's.

I have just gotten sh to replace all of my icon switches that are previous to the fixed paddle issue. Anyway, I went to do some programs with the new switches and when I try to use the "control" set of parameters, the new icons all disappear. The icon switches that are of the older vintage are all there. What gives?

I did that exact same thing but used my Elk panel's relays instead of Insteon relays to control it. When I speak of "it" I mean my garage door openers, not a car starter. Maybe if you have a detached garage, but the risk of the car starting and pumpin CO into my house accidentally scares me.

I am confused by why the program is causing the light to turn on and off repeatedly. I do understand why it would fail to complete. As I see it, when the first light in the program has it's status addressed by the then section of the program, the program will retrigger (terminating the execution of the then/else parts) and thus not complete the turning on of the second light. This would get caught in a loop until it is no longer between sunset and 10:30 or until somehow both lights became on. Where is the command that is turning the light off? What am I missing here that would make the lights go on/off/on/off as I believe was what the original question was?

Scenes and Programs may effectively do the same things, but are not at all the same things as to how they go about doing it. Scenes are directly programmed into the Insteon switches, kpls, etc. These are the links that can be created manually (no ISY or other software/hardware required). The ISY can be used to automate the process of creating scenes and is a lifesaver for anything more than the simplest of scenes, but ISY is not required. Programs are written into the programming section of ISY. They are totally run by the ISY. The insteon devices can be told to do things by a program, but without ISY, programs don't exist. Programs offer a whole lot of options that scenes can not do. But, they are quite a bit slower than scenes. A scene will usually happen in a small fraction of a second (instantly as far as most applications are concerned), whereas a program that does the same thing may take a couple seconds. If you are trying to create a group of insteon devices to respond to another insteon devices in the same way everytime, use a scene. If you have more complex if/then parameters, you need to use a program. In this example, pushing the kpl button does something different with each press. Programs are therefore required. The "F" programs (flags) do nothing but get set to true or false. If the "F" program is executed from another program as either a run "then" or run "else" it will cause the status of that program to become true or false respectively. Other programs can then reference that true or false status as part of the if section. You can think of it as binary code. Using 2 flag programs is like 2 bit binary. 00, 01, 10, 11. So with those 2 flags you can have other programs respond in 4 different ways. I hope I got all of this correct. I encourage others to critique my explanation!

I would not use Insteon for this. I find the reliability to be too low. If there was a failure to shut off your heat or whatever it could cost a lot at those kind of electricity prices. Maybe the newer dual mode Insteon stuff that uses RF as well as power line code would be reliable enough. I use my Elk M1G for stuff like this. Soon (I hope) Elk will be fully integrated with ISY so you can use that programming interface. A simple and cheap hardwired relay will work on your water tank and there are a number of thermostats that will communicate with Elk. You will need a trigger for your system to know that you are about to show up. What that trigger is, only you can determine since only you know when you are going to be there. You can have Elk or ISY send you email or text notification of turning your vacation house on/off or other conditions as you see fit.

I have used my Elk m1 to prevent water damage by installing water sensors through the house. http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-48-2 ... witch.aspx I have wired these to zones on my alarm panel and when the circuit closes because water touches the contact, the system alarms. Furthermore, I have an Elk whole house automatic valve. http://dpcdist.com/watershutoffvalve.aspx The Elk alarm panel closes a relay that closes the valve during a water alarm shutting down the whole house. In addition, I have it set to shut the house water off 45 minutes after the system is armed away. Using this device from insteon http://www.smarthome.com/2450/IOLinc-IN ... ut-/p.aspx you could monitor one water sensor and control one water valve using your ISY instead of an Elk. I paid less than the prices on those websites, those are just what came up when I googled my products for your reference. Once the status of the water sensor and valve are known to the ISY, you can do with that what you will. Send emails, sound sirens, flash lights, send text messages, you get the idea.

I haven't used an outlet linc, but wonder if it doesn't have a temp or current overload switch on it. Is the AC unit near (or over) the outlet linc amp rating? Such a device might very well be reset by a power cycle to the outlet linc. Have you tried calling smarthome and asking?

So you are saying that the buttons are still part of the other scenes, you just created a new scene that is the same as the other scene but with all buttons and switches as contollers, no responders?

I have only had one problem with inteon, the micro-switches. And I have had 100% failure on them (maybe 200% as several of the replacements failed). All of the replacements from the last 2 years seem to be fine. I have had nothing else insteon fail out of about 100 pieces. I will say that I had the IR tx of theirs, and while it didn't fail, I returned it because it was pathetic.

That is the idea of the INSTEON modem chip that could be integrated into almost anything, but getting companies to by in and do it is anther thing. Thanks, If you are the tinkering type and have lots of time to waste, you could tear apart a switchlinc relay and integrate the necessary componants directly into the AC unit. Provided there is enough room inside of the AC unit this would be very slick. Mostly you would need to pull the two micro-switches from the insteon board and install them (or other contact switches) to the face panel of the AC unit. One button turns it on, the other turns it off. Move the led indicators to the face of the AC unit and your are in business.

Trouble with an AC unit is that it cylces anyway. So even if the appliancelinc monitored itself for current draw, you wouldn't know if it was just off because it had reached temp. If you want to be sure that no one messes with the controls, I would suggest makeing a cover for the control panel on the unit. Much like you see for standard wall thermostats.

That's why you use a switchlinc locally and kpl in the distant room to control the appliancelinc. You never need to touch the actual AC unit or appliance linc. The switchlinc and kpl in the other room will track the status of the appliancelinc provided you use them to turn it on or off. (Assuming of course the insteon signal gets through) Resistive Loads have the cold-on spike, but 10 times seems like a lot. That would mean that a 1000 watt loads initial draw could be 90 amps. For that to happen and not pop the breaker it would have to be very very brief.

HMMMMM. Not an EE, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. An AC unit is different as it is primarily an inductive load where as lights are a resistive load. Resistive loads tend to have a current spike when flipped on cold, and inductive loads can have kick back volts (in other words they both have their problems). I don't know what the limiting issue is inside of the switchlinc. Anyway, the deal about amps and watts is not really valid. Unless you are dealing with a phase shift (power factor) which I don't think you are with AC unit, then the volts are constant at 120 and therefore watts and amps are just two different ways to measure the same thing since P (watts) = I (amps) x V (volts). In other words 8 amps is roughly 1000 watts. The spec sheet does say appliances up to 15 amps. So, it sounds like you should be good to go. The switchlinc relay is also rated the same, so if per chance the outlet the AC unit is plugged into is switched, you could save some money and replace the wall switch with the switchlinc relay and not need a separate switchlinc for local control.

Good deal Marc. Looks like that's the ticket. I little bit excessively black and bluky looking for indoor use, but you could put it behind something. And if you don't have an available box in the wall for a switchlinc local control, they make table top enclosures that you could put a switchlinc into.

Your AC units probably draws a lot of electricity, I bet 1000 watts, maybe more. Most insteon items are only capable of 480 watt loads. You may need to put a relay in that is rated for the wattage and have the insteon device control the relay. I haven't dug around the SH website to know for sure if there is a simple plug in module that can handle that much power, but I don't think there is. If you put a kpl in your master, a siwtchlink in each room, and an appliance link at each unit, you can create 6 scenes. Each scene includes one switchlinc, the appliancelinc in the same room, and the designated button on the KPL for that rooms unit. The status light on the KPL and on the switchlinc should follow the on/off status of the appliance linc (and thus the AC unit), assuming no missed communications. You could also wire your switchlinc directly to the unit and skip the appliance linc if you have a switchable outlet near the ac unit. Again, consider the wattages and type of load. The 1000 watt switchlincs are fine for lighting loads but they might not be appropriate for an AC unit. For sure you could pick up a standard 120 v relay and use the switchlinc to close the circuit to the AC unit. These can be had for cheap on ebay and have regular contact closures where type of draw is not relavent. You would have to build some proper electrical enclosures for this setup.

I have the same sort of thing running on my bathroom fans but don't incorporate the lights at all. I figure that it is the deicision of the person using the bathroom as to whether the bath fan is necessary. Going in to comb your hair or empty your bladder isn't a fan situation so why have it turn on. I have the program wait 10 minutes after the fan is switched on and then have it switch off. The only change I have considered making is if after 10 minutes the bathroom lights are still on. In that case, they may be taking a long shower and still want the steam cleared. The coolest would be if their were a foul odor detector and a high humidity detector. The humidity thing is very doable, I am not familiar with any available stink meter. Maybe a float switch on the toilet tank, but then you would get fan for peeing as well. Maybe a switch on the TP dispensor, again, however, woman would set it off after number one. Perhaps only if the TP switch were tripped twice in less than 30 seconds then the fan would turn on.