apostolakisl

It appears this version is "sold and shipped by Amazon" https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X8W4SI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 It is $55.

How in the word did you do that? You must have wired up standard NEMA 1-15 plugs onto the low voltage wires? You should not do that. I someone else comes along they would rightfully expect that those lights are 120vac based on the plug. I'm shocked it worked. I guess the circuitry in the lamplinc was able to rectify the 12vac into usable current. Perhaps it was actually outputting a bit more than 12vac until you added more lights. Adding more lights would increase current draw which may have dropped the voltage below what the lamplinc could function on.

The description is quite confusing. "New revision (2.3) addresses issues with hardware longevity – buy from ‘ships from and sold by Amazon’ to ensure you receive the latest revision" This particular item appears to be sold by a 3rd party seller. This description is very misleading since you would think the description is applying to what you are buying. I don't know how Amazon works, but I would think that each seller creates their own description, but perhaps the description is generated by Amazon regradless of the seller? I don't know.

I am wondering why the issues. I have done 3 replace plm's in the last year and all went off without a hitch. I have done it with 5.x firmware and 4.5 firmware. Two on one ISY and one a second ISY. The second ISY, at the time, was only sparsely populated with Insteon devices/scenes/programs, but the one that I did twice has like 60 devices, hundreds of programs, and dozens of scenes. And if you go back several years, I have done I think 4 replace PLM's (thanks SH for that one). All I did was plug in the new plm, reboot the whole lot, and hit "replace plm". I didn't even bother to boot the PLM first, just plugged the whole thing in at once (or at least very nearly all at once).

The echo dot with the 1/8 stereo jack is a big plus for sending audio to my whole house system. Amazon prime music is included in your prime membership and is pretty good for those of us who aren't super picky about our background music. The full size Alexa does not have the jack. Dot is super cheap. At $35/ea on prime day, echo dots quickly became a "one in every room" device. Home is "smarter". In other words, it has a lot more answers to questions you ask Home works super easily with other google things like your calendar. Echo's new "drop in" function is nice. At $35/ea during prime day, I bought a bunch of them and have them all over the house and have since abandoned my intercom system. Now I just say "drop in on . . . " and I'm talking to my kids in their bedroom or whatever. Home works better with IFTTT. No need to say "Trigger" wth every command and you can have multiple variations on your statement and you can use variable substitution and you can have customized responses. Not sure any of this matters if you use the ISY portal, which I suppose I should go ahead and subscribe to. "Home" is basically any Android device that you have Google Assistant installed on. I was able to install it on my Android 5.0.1 phone (took some phenagling) but now the same commands that I use with google home also work directly from my phone (though the phone takes a few seconds to understand me). "Home" gets confused when I say "ok google" to my phone and it is in audio range. In summary, both have their reasons to be owned and as such I own both. If Google had a "dot" version that was similarly priced, I would say that Google would be the hands down winner. Dot is super tiny and thus goes with me when I travel with the greatest of ease.

I would start by 1) creating a backup as is currently. (it would have been best if you had done that prior to replacing the plm, but oh well) 2) try "restore plm" function from ISY menu. 3) If still doesn't work 4) restore you backup from a year ago 5) use "restore plm" function again If still no luck, put a repair ticket in to UDI.

Yes and No. It is not uncommon for two companies making complimentary products to have agreements. Provided the products are complimentary and it doesn't involve monopolistic or otherwise illegal behavior one may give the other access to information and resources in return for specified things from the other.

Both need to be Insteon. If you left the other as a regular 3 way switch, when you switch it "off", that will literally turn the Insteon switch off . . . as in no power to it all, not just the light off, but the entire switch goes dead. Of course you can leave one of the 3way switches and keep it in on at all times. I have one spot that I did this where the other switch is in a place where God only knows why my architect put a switch there.

I would do what DonB did. Pick up an Insteon hub, they can be had for pretty cheap on ebay and just use it to configure the device. Who knows, you might find other uses for the hub.

I wouldn't worry about it. SH/SL has way too much invested in their current protocol to make any changes that make ISY obsolete. They just can't since that would mean that you wouldn't be able to link any of the new devices to old devices. After all, it is the PLM that makes the links, not ISY and the PLM is made by them. The one thing they could do if things got nasty is to simply stock making the PLM. But that would take out more than just ISY and I imagine there would be lawsuits. It appears the deal is that new devices with unique functionality are not getting supported by ISY . .. as far as the uniqe function is concerned. What this means to you and me is, we dont buy those products but instead get a z-wave version of the same thing. This seems quite counter productive to being in the best interist of SL. There are some comments in a different thread theorizing that SL has outsourced its engineering and that they actually don't even know how the heck it works. I suppose this could be true. In the end, you can always get an Insteon hub to access some of those unique features, especially the one-time setup stuff.

If you are scattering your leak sensors all over the house, you will likely not be in radio range of the PLM. If your leak sensors are fairly concnetrated, then locating your plm within that same area may do the trick. Generally you don't need a lot of dual band devices to move your signal accross a house. 1 or 2 probably? As mentioned, depends on what your house is made, other radio interference that may exist, size of your house and layout. Battery device do not repeat signals for obvious reasons. Star by putting the leak sensors where you need them, and put the PLM/ISY where it suits you best. Try to link the devices. If they all link right off, then you are done. If they don't link at all, you may try relocating your PLM/ISY. If you don't want to screw around moving your PLM all over, just buy 2 or 3 lamplincs (dual band devices that repeat) and automate a few lights while your at it.

The isse as I see it is that it fills the log with a rediculous number of entries that just make it difficult to find anything else without first putting it into excel and then filtering out the 100,000 entries that are all 1% humidity changes. And I can tell you that with very still air, the humidity still changes by 1% every minutes or so. I have 5 thermostats in a building that sits unoccupied with the AC completely off for days on end and it still give is constantly bouncing by 1%.

It isn't a constant update. It only sends when it changes. But it only takes a 1% change to trigger and it changes by 1% a lot.

I like to use remote desktop or teamviewer to log into remote sites and then run the admin console from there. I find it works better than running the console on a remote computer. Of course you need an onsite computer that is either running at all times or have wake-on-lan enabled.

Is it safe to say that the motion detector works just fine if you are OK with the default settings? In other words, the time out and the night only mode can't be changed from ISY?

You've gone from most things having 0 hops left to nothing having 0 hops left.

If the device you just replaced had nothing going except this one scene, then what you did is fine. Typically, you would use "replace with" command from the ISY admin console when replacing a switch. It will replace your old switch the new switch everywhere it existed (programs and scenes . . . all of them all at once). 1) Physically replace the old switch with new switch 2) Right click switch you are getting rid of and click "remove from folder" if it is in a folder, if not you can skip this step 3) Add new switch to ISY (click on the start linking swirly button at the top of the admin console and then push and hold the set button on the new switch until it beeps) 4) New switch shoudl show up on your screen, click "finish" so new switch is added, let it delete all olds links 5) Right click old switch and click "replace with" and then select your new switch (which at this point will just have a number name) 6) Let ISY do its thing 7) Reopen admin console and put your switch back into the folder (if you had it in a folder), the original switch will be gone and now a switch with the same name will be your new switch. Done. Keep in mind, replacing one swithc with a dual band device will not do much for comm since the radio will not have any other switches to talk to. The more dual band devices, the more paths the radio has.

I understand that SH has not released the "api" or whatever they call it to UDI. So, what does this mean? Is it not supported at all or is there limited suppport? Basically, I am in the market for a couple of motion senosrs and I want to know if these are going to work at all. The purpose is to look for room occupancy and if none is detected for a period of time, to shut down the AC. I plan on having the motion sensor trigger a program with a wait of 45 minutes or so. After 45 minutes, it will shut down the AC. If it has motion, it re-triggers and starts the wait all over. Just need to know that I can do this before buying them. Thanks.

Your communications are likely to improve significantly if you replace your older single band (2476 models) with dual band (2477) ones. Smarthome is having a sale right now with 25% off and if you buy the multipacks the price is pretty good. This holds true for both the dimmers and on/off switches. No doubt, your problems are communication related. a 5-pack of on/off switches is $211 minus 25% gets you down to about $31/ea. You'll need to add something else on there to get back up to $200 for the free shipping. I've been slowly replacing mine and either retiring my old switches or moving them to low priority duty.

That would be a CHOICE you make in writing your program. Unless your two scenes are EXACTLY the same (which would be pointless), then no, your statement is false, you would always be able to differentiate them (unless you CHOSE not to for whatever reason).

I think you need to re-read my post.

Really the only way you can judge the status of a scene and not have it be wrong some percent of the time, is to do as suggested above, use programs. It could be quite tedious depending on how many scenes and how many devices in each scene, but it will work and it can be tailored to your specific idea of what it means for that scene to be on. Basically, you go through all the devices in a scene and say what level each device should be, or you can do a range for each device (basically doubles the lines of code since you need a greater than/less than line. If device 1 is greater than x and device 1 is less than y and device 2 is greatar z and device 2 is less than a and so on. The status of the program is thus a flag for the scene. You leave the "then" and "else" empty. If you don't have overlapping scenes, and you don't ever turn control devices within a scene without using the scene, then you can just pick any device in that scene and use it as a flag. For many people, that isn't the case. It sorts of defeats a great deal of the reason we own Insteon and ISY, so we can have all kinds of fancy scenarious. I suppose a nice feature for ISY would be to add an "auto-program". The "auto-program" would instantly put all the devices in a scene into the "if" section of a program along with the scene deisgnated level for each device.

Or you could drop the repeat "every . . . " and just have a "repeat" which just repeats forever. Then you use one or more "waits" in the program. As it stands now, repeat every x minutes stuff is functionally the same as Repeat (every 0 minutes) stuff wait x min OR, probably the easiest and quickest correction would be to change the label to "repeat after waiting x minutes" I think that is more clear than "repeat with wait" and requires no code change, only changing the label.

When you select a scene on the console, it lists the devices in that scene and their status, it does not list a status for the scene. What it means for a scene to be "on" is not exactly clear. I suppose, it means that every device in the scene is at the exact level that the scene dictates. But generally, that does not work out how you might want it. If scene 1 is turned on, and then a single device in that scene is later changed, perhaps only slightly, maybe from 80% to 50%, is the scene now off? Some of the third apps offer an option to designate a device in a scene as the "flag" for that scene. If that device matches the scene level, then the scene is "on". I think that is a reasonable approach, but requires that you manually define the device or devices that meet criteria.

OK, so, in short, I'm waiting for version 3. At that point, I'll go ahead and make the leap to the portal. In the mean time, I'm not going to waste any time creating more IFTTT applets.