apostolakisl

I found this https://www.adafruit.com/product/3010?gclid=CjwKCAjw_8jNBRB-EiwA96Yp1nJLOazeLas9kCjWeW1cY--9yIWVOCdwdF0ymhyEVf55xaljeH9uURoCyJQQAvD_BwE What board are you referring to? How do you interface that with ISY? The nice thing with cai is that nodelink makes it "native" on ISY.

1) float switch $5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liquid-Water-Level-Sensor-Horizontal-Float-Switch-Pool-Tank-On-Off-Full-Empty-/182168941294?hash=item2a6a1d72ee:g:UAIAAOSwMf1ZoFiM This is to alert you if water gets too high. 2) Relay with mounting $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/JQX-13F-110-120VAC-Coil-DPDT-8-Pins-Electromagnetic-Power-Relay-w-DYF08A-Socket-/271344249983?epid=1038301975&hash=item3f2d60ac7f:g:UU8AAOSw8GtZSfsB 3) Pressure Switch $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDEXP-Male-Threaded-Water-Pump-pressure-switch-control-Grey/272234567911?_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D141fa7744262455db79f1d79f60563a7%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226 4) CAI $45 https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00U31CWEI/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new Throw in a couple bucks for odds and ends and you can monitor it all for $80.

You really don't need to get so complicated and measure current. Since the pump itself has a simple on/off switch (the float switch), you can easily just wire a relay to that same output and effectively be monitoring the float switch. If you have an always on PC or RPi, you can put ioguys nodelink on it and put a webcontrol board directly onto an ISY (5.x firmware only). It works well. I have this setup with using a reed switch that webcontrol monitors and nodlink synchornizes to ISY. webcontrol has 8 of these inputs so for $40 you can monitor quite a few things. A relay and a float switch and a pressure switch together might cost another $40?

An alternative to using a synchrolinc which avoids running power through the syncrolinc itself is to use a relay and a I/O linc. The float switch closes the circuit to the pump. You can wire a relay in parrallel with the motor. When the motor is on, then relay is closed. Connecting the relay to the io linc will let you know when the relay is on or off and thus when the pump is on or off. For further knowledge, you can put a pressure switch on the pump outflow and connect it to an io linc. Now you will know that the pump is actually pumping water. A combination of an io linc on the power to the pump and to the pressure switch will tell you if the pump should be running but isn't (pump burned out). And furthermore, you could put a separate float switch higher up to trigger an io linc in the event that the water is getting too high. And if you are going to do all those io lincs, you could instead go with a webcontrol board and have 8 inputs all in one device. However, you need to get internet to the webcontrol board.

You can use "status" If status of kpl button is on Then whatever If the KPL button always tracks the scene, then this will always work. It won't work if you have the kpl mixed into some other scenes where it responds to other scenes. But I bet that that is not the case.

Just to re-iterate. You need to get rid of the "to" time. In the winter, if sunrise happens to be after 8:55 your program won't run at all. You don't need a "to" time since the program will end on its own once the repeats finish. Unless, of course, you actually don't want the program to run if sunrise is after 8:55. Then you've got it right. Also, if sunrise is at something like 8:54:45, then your program will start to run, but then terminate at 8:55 prior to completing the 12 repeats. The light will stay on or off depending on whether it was on or off at 8:55:00 as it goes through the repeats. It appears that you want the light to finish in the on state, so if it happens to be off, then it won't be what you want.

ISY is on UPS. my PLM is not.

1) Install self signed SSL on both ISY's. http://www.universal...urity Guide.pdf Be sure to fill out all the fields with something. 2) Install network module on sending ISY (go to help/purchase module) 3) Port forward your router on receiving ISY to your ISY (port 443) 4) Setup network resource using REST command. I have blacked out the authentication and my URL name. This REST sets a state variable at location 1 on the receiving ISY with the current temp. The 2/1 in the path means "state variable/spot 1" Of course you can substitute anything you like, for example, it could turn a light on, run a program, whatever.

Yes. You can set the two ISY's to use REST between them. The sending ISY needs the network module and both ISY's need SSL (self-signed or paid) (be sure to fill out all the fields on self-signed . . .I learned the hard way). Set up dynamic dns for the receiving location so you don't have to worry about your IP changing, then write programs to send a network command using REST upon whatever it is that you want to know about. You'll also need to port forward 443 on your router to your receiving ISY. Of course if you want bi-directional then both ISY's need all those features. I have one ISY set variables on the other ISY which initiate activities on the second ISY.

Not sure when you tried. But I purchased my first echo in Dec 2016 and set up my first IFTTT webhook shortly after arrival. It worked then and has continued to work since.

Hmmm. My experience is not consistent with that. I do not have a paid SSL and I have both google home and echo doing webhooks no prob. EDIT: In fact, I have 2 ISY's both using IFTTT over https: using self-signed certs. example of a webhook below. https://admin:*********@*****.no-ip.biz/rest/nodes/43 9E 4 1/cmd/DOF

For me: 1) I have a dynamic dns already set up through no-ip. 2) I have about 10 devices in my house that will update my dynamic dns. I'm using my foscam cameras since they natively support no-ip. My Elk also natively supports no-ip, my router supports others, but not no-ip. 3) I have a self-signed security certificate on my ISY. The wiki has instructions on installing that. Even if you choose to get portal, there is a good chance you want dynamic dns to get into your home network for cameras, or computer access, or whatever. You could forgo the dynamic dns if your ISP never changes your IP number. Many never do unless you get a new gateway/modem. But then you need to remember that number. It's easier to remember a name of your choosing. Like http://joe-blow.no-ip.biz The above 3 I have had for a long time since this is how I was able to access my ISY long before portal existed. At that point, it is just a matter of setting up webhooks on IFTTT. You need to go to the wiki on REST commands and cut and paste in whatever commands you want.

I already had IFTTT running before the portal.

I have seen this as well. Especially after moving some devices and doing a "replace with" command. I suggest a factory reset and then restore device.

I don't know about the portal, but IFTTT can do all REST commands. So, yes, you setup an IFTTT account, link it to your google home, and use a webhook to set whatever you want on the ISY.

No, you do not. IFTTT can be used for google home and alexa.

I was looking at the smarthome/insteon forum. I wasn't aware of the forum you have here.

Ha, just checked the forum and it appears that thread is locked. Unless they have another one somewhere else, but the sticky one at the top of the forum under Insteon is locked.

Not at all true. An insteon switch can be linked to any number of switches. Removing the load circuitry has nothing at all to do with which switches it can be linked to. Precisely. Like I said, they figured they could make the sale because the switch did what it needed to. . . so what if it does extra if the customer will pay for the useless part anyway.

If a house is not fully done, it seems like there would be ample opportunity to find new locations for just about any type of switch. I don't follow. If you have a non-load switch in a box where there is no load, then having a capped load wire provides no functionality under any circumstance. Just to be clear, I am not talking about Insteon making a 3-way slave, I am talking about a non-load switchlinc. Insteon basically already makes this in a battery version.

I'm not saying the person is fake, I'm saying the person is full of it or has bought into the company line. By the logic provided, Insteon should be discontinuing a whole slew of products. They just figured they could still get the sale anyway.

For my part. Voice activation is fun, makes for a nice party trick, and is sometimes actually useful, but it is definitely not a replacement for a switch at each entry/exit location. Saying the words and waiting for the response is quite a drawn out process compared to the reflexive and simple "tap" it takes to turn the light on using the 3-way that I'm walking right past. I use voice in that unusual situaton where I want to change the light after already engaging myself in an activity within the room. Somehow, I don't think I'm unique in how I function. The rest of my family behaves the same as I of their own accord. For my part, I have never re-purposed a switch. I have replaced failed switches and I have upgraded to dual band. But every location that I have ever installed a switchlinc still has a swtichlinc. I have only kind of sort repurposed some switches when I replaced an otherwise working single band with a dual band. But mostly not. I'm just not into the idea of wasting my time instaling an old, inferior switch, that is likely to just give me trouble and need to be replaced again. I just don't know what sort of re-purpose you would even do. You might, I guess decide to just go back to old fashioned switch, or maybe go to a KPL, but how many times might you do that? If a regular Swtichlnc with load costs $49.99 and a non-load swtich cost $29.99 . . . .I would absolutely buy them. If it were $49.99 and $44.99 . . .no, I wouldn't bother. But $20 a piece times a lot of switches adds up. And a non-load Insteon swtich would be better than a zwave slave since does not require 3 way wiring to the desired load, it only needs a hot and neutral. This popy-cock from whoever mystery person at SH that they had too many returns becuase of confused customers. Well, that is just on them. It just isn't that hard to make it clear in the description what it doesn't do. If they wrote their descriptions better for all of their dfvices I bet they would have a lot fewer returns. Sure, sometimes you just can't fix stupid, and that is going to get you no matter what you sell or don't sell. Personally I have 18 switchlncs that have no load attached (and another 39 with loads). If I could have saved $360 installing otherwise identical no-load switches, heck yeah!

Yes, well it makes perfect sense that a house retrofitted for electric would be lacking in 3 ways. In your situation, Insteon is quite a game changer. I would say, however, that this sort of home is the exception, not the rule. Seems like these would be good for you http://www.smarthome.com/mini-remote-switch-4-pack.html I'm not sure just how they work, I assume you can still push and hold for dimming scenes. More or less, these switches are the load free switch I've talking about at the lower price. Just I wouldn't want to deal with charging them, so I'm not doing these until they come out with an AC powered one.

Did SH publish this information? If someone on the phone told you this, well we all have had curious conversations with people on the phone at SH where plenty of information that was incorrect either because of ignorance or just to shut you up. The tact switch issue comes to mind until finally the owned up to it. And the excuses on the failing PLM's seemed to have been company policy until just the past few months. Of course having full capabiity on a switch where the load is capped does not benefit anyone. If indeed SH had a high return rate, I place the blame squarely on the item description. It would be easy to make it clear what it did not do. SH sells a "slave" thermostat right now. Frankly, the description on it could be better and I wouldn't be surprised if they get returns on it because of that.

So, did you build your house with just one switch for each load or have you capped off the additional locations in your 3 ways? Personally, I haven't yet learned how to teleport from room to room, so I do still walk through the doors and nothing says convenience like having a switch right there.