apostolakisl

Whaaaaat? I don't know if there is something special about leak sensors, but scenes can have as many controllers as you want, anywhere from zero to every device in the scene. The converse is not true, a device can only control one scene, but there is no need for two scenes here. I don't see any need for and/or logic. It is a simple premise, if any leak sensor triggers (sends an "on") the scene turns on. From your description of "resetting" a leak sensor, I'm assuming that leak sensors only send an "off" when manually reset (which is probably a good thing). Run at startup would not be the issue. Once startup is complete, changing the status of the relay would not trigger the program. Frankly, I don't see how this program is triggering since it should only trigger on a change in status of one of the leak sensors. Do you have a program not listed here that calls this program? ie does a "run if", or "run then".

I don't have any leak sensors, but I looked at the manual and it appears that thy can be linked directly to other insteon devices just like usual. So why use a program? Just create a scene with the relay and the leak sensors and put the leak sensors as controllers. It looks like you have the normally open version of the relay, so you need to set the scene "on level" for the relay as "off" (yes that seems weird, but it works) This basically means any time the leak sensor is triggered either from wet to dry or dry to wet, the pump shuts off. This means that once a leak sensor has gotten wet, you would need to fix the leak, dry it off, and then manually turn the relay on. It would not turn back on automatically . .. which is a good thing in my mind. Power failures would have no impact on this setup. Except I suppose if you had a leak start during the power failure, then power came back on, it would not turn the pump off since the pump relay would be unpowered during the power outage and not get the signal from the leak detector. But what are the chances of that? I suppose you could set up a program that when isy reboots it shuts the pump off to be extra careful. EDIT: Just noticed you have the NC relay (it was in the title ). I made my NO assumption based on the fact that your program tells the relay to turn "on", which would open the connection and turn off the pump. Could that be your issue?

Why don't you make a nodelink for it? I know you can do it. The PITA with CAI is just that it has no wifi so you have to pull ethernet to it or use a pricey wifi adapter. I assume it runs some version of linux? Which I'm thinking means you can write the node software right on it rather than having an intermediary.

I found this https://www.adafruit.com/product/3010?gclid=CjwKCAjw_8jNBRB-EiwA96Yp1nJLOazeLas9kCjWeW1cY--9yIWVOCdwdF0ymhyEVf55xaljeH9uURoCyJQQAvD_BwE What board are you referring to? How do you interface that with ISY? The nice thing with cai is that nodelink makes it "native" on ISY.

1) float switch $5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liquid-Water-Level-Sensor-Horizontal-Float-Switch-Pool-Tank-On-Off-Full-Empty-/182168941294?hash=item2a6a1d72ee:g:UAIAAOSwMf1ZoFiM This is to alert you if water gets too high. 2) Relay with mounting $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/JQX-13F-110-120VAC-Coil-DPDT-8-Pins-Electromagnetic-Power-Relay-w-DYF08A-Socket-/271344249983?epid=1038301975&hash=item3f2d60ac7f:g:UU8AAOSw8GtZSfsB 3) Pressure Switch $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDEXP-Male-Threaded-Water-Pump-pressure-switch-control-Grey/272234567911?_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D141fa7744262455db79f1d79f60563a7%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226 4) CAI $45 https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00U31CWEI/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new Throw in a couple bucks for odds and ends and you can monitor it all for $80.

You really don't need to get so complicated and measure current. Since the pump itself has a simple on/off switch (the float switch), you can easily just wire a relay to that same output and effectively be monitoring the float switch. If you have an always on PC or RPi, you can put ioguys nodelink on it and put a webcontrol board directly onto an ISY (5.x firmware only). It works well. I have this setup with using a reed switch that webcontrol monitors and nodlink synchornizes to ISY. webcontrol has 8 of these inputs so for $40 you can monitor quite a few things. A relay and a float switch and a pressure switch together might cost another $40?

An alternative to using a synchrolinc which avoids running power through the syncrolinc itself is to use a relay and a I/O linc. The float switch closes the circuit to the pump. You can wire a relay in parrallel with the motor. When the motor is on, then relay is closed. Connecting the relay to the io linc will let you know when the relay is on or off and thus when the pump is on or off. For further knowledge, you can put a pressure switch on the pump outflow and connect it to an io linc. Now you will know that the pump is actually pumping water. A combination of an io linc on the power to the pump and to the pressure switch will tell you if the pump should be running but isn't (pump burned out). And furthermore, you could put a separate float switch higher up to trigger an io linc in the event that the water is getting too high. And if you are going to do all those io lincs, you could instead go with a webcontrol board and have 8 inputs all in one device. However, you need to get internet to the webcontrol board.

You can use "status" If status of kpl button is on Then whatever If the KPL button always tracks the scene, then this will always work. It won't work if you have the kpl mixed into some other scenes where it responds to other scenes. But I bet that that is not the case.

Just to re-iterate. You need to get rid of the "to" time. In the winter, if sunrise happens to be after 8:55 your program won't run at all. You don't need a "to" time since the program will end on its own once the repeats finish. Unless, of course, you actually don't want the program to run if sunrise is after 8:55. Then you've got it right. Also, if sunrise is at something like 8:54:45, then your program will start to run, but then terminate at 8:55 prior to completing the 12 repeats. The light will stay on or off depending on whether it was on or off at 8:55:00 as it goes through the repeats. It appears that you want the light to finish in the on state, so if it happens to be off, then it won't be what you want.

ISY is on UPS. my PLM is not.

1) Install self signed SSL on both ISY's. http://www.universal...urity Guide.pdf Be sure to fill out all the fields with something. 2) Install network module on sending ISY (go to help/purchase module) 3) Port forward your router on receiving ISY to your ISY (port 443) 4) Setup network resource using REST command. I have blacked out the authentication and my URL name. This REST sets a state variable at location 1 on the receiving ISY with the current temp. The 2/1 in the path means "state variable/spot 1" Of course you can substitute anything you like, for example, it could turn a light on, run a program, whatever.

Yes. You can set the two ISY's to use REST between them. The sending ISY needs the network module and both ISY's need SSL (self-signed or paid) (be sure to fill out all the fields on self-signed . . .I learned the hard way). Set up dynamic dns for the receiving location so you don't have to worry about your IP changing, then write programs to send a network command using REST upon whatever it is that you want to know about. You'll also need to port forward 443 on your router to your receiving ISY. Of course if you want bi-directional then both ISY's need all those features. I have one ISY set variables on the other ISY which initiate activities on the second ISY.

Not sure when you tried. But I purchased my first echo in Dec 2016 and set up my first IFTTT webhook shortly after arrival. It worked then and has continued to work since.

Hmmm. My experience is not consistent with that. I do not have a paid SSL and I have both google home and echo doing webhooks no prob. EDIT: In fact, I have 2 ISY's both using IFTTT over https: using self-signed certs. example of a webhook below. https://admin:*********@*****.no-ip.biz/rest/nodes/43 9E 4 1/cmd/DOF

For me: 1) I have a dynamic dns already set up through no-ip. 2) I have about 10 devices in my house that will update my dynamic dns. I'm using my foscam cameras since they natively support no-ip. My Elk also natively supports no-ip, my router supports others, but not no-ip. 3) I have a self-signed security certificate on my ISY. The wiki has instructions on installing that. Even if you choose to get portal, there is a good chance you want dynamic dns to get into your home network for cameras, or computer access, or whatever. You could forgo the dynamic dns if your ISP never changes your IP number. Many never do unless you get a new gateway/modem. But then you need to remember that number. It's easier to remember a name of your choosing. Like http://joe-blow.no-ip.biz The above 3 I have had for a long time since this is how I was able to access my ISY long before portal existed. At that point, it is just a matter of setting up webhooks on IFTTT. You need to go to the wiki on REST commands and cut and paste in whatever commands you want.

I already had IFTTT running before the portal.

I have seen this as well. Especially after moving some devices and doing a "replace with" command. I suggest a factory reset and then restore device.

I don't know about the portal, but IFTTT can do all REST commands. So, yes, you setup an IFTTT account, link it to your google home, and use a webhook to set whatever you want on the ISY.

No, you do not. IFTTT can be used for google home and alexa.

I was looking at the smarthome/insteon forum. I wasn't aware of the forum you have here.

Ha, just checked the forum and it appears that thread is locked. Unless they have another one somewhere else, but the sticky one at the top of the forum under Insteon is locked.

Not at all true. An insteon switch can be linked to any number of switches. Removing the load circuitry has nothing at all to do with which switches it can be linked to. Precisely. Like I said, they figured they could make the sale because the switch did what it needed to. . . so what if it does extra if the customer will pay for the useless part anyway.

If a house is not fully done, it seems like there would be ample opportunity to find new locations for just about any type of switch. I don't follow. If you have a non-load switch in a box where there is no load, then having a capped load wire provides no functionality under any circumstance. Just to be clear, I am not talking about Insteon making a 3-way slave, I am talking about a non-load switchlinc. Insteon basically already makes this in a battery version.

I'm not saying the person is fake, I'm saying the person is full of it or has bought into the company line. By the logic provided, Insteon should be discontinuing a whole slew of products. They just figured they could still get the sale anyway.

For my part. Voice activation is fun, makes for a nice party trick, and is sometimes actually useful, but it is definitely not a replacement for a switch at each entry/exit location. Saying the words and waiting for the response is quite a drawn out process compared to the reflexive and simple "tap" it takes to turn the light on using the 3-way that I'm walking right past. I use voice in that unusual situaton where I want to change the light after already engaging myself in an activity within the room. Somehow, I don't think I'm unique in how I function. The rest of my family behaves the same as I of their own accord. For my part, I have never re-purposed a switch. I have replaced failed switches and I have upgraded to dual band. But every location that I have ever installed a switchlinc still has a swtichlinc. I have only kind of sort repurposed some switches when I replaced an otherwise working single band with a dual band. But mostly not. I'm just not into the idea of wasting my time instaling an old, inferior switch, that is likely to just give me trouble and need to be replaced again. I just don't know what sort of re-purpose you would even do. You might, I guess decide to just go back to old fashioned switch, or maybe go to a KPL, but how many times might you do that? If a regular Swtichlnc with load costs $49.99 and a non-load swtich cost $29.99 . . . .I would absolutely buy them. If it were $49.99 and $44.99 . . .no, I wouldn't bother. But $20 a piece times a lot of switches adds up. And a non-load Insteon swtich would be better than a zwave slave since does not require 3 way wiring to the desired load, it only needs a hot and neutral. This popy-cock from whoever mystery person at SH that they had too many returns becuase of confused customers. Well, that is just on them. It just isn't that hard to make it clear in the description what it doesn't do. If they wrote their descriptions better for all of their dfvices I bet they would have a lot fewer returns. Sure, sometimes you just can't fix stupid, and that is going to get you no matter what you sell or don't sell. Personally I have 18 switchlncs that have no load attached (and another 39 with loads). If I could have saved $360 installing otherwise identical no-load switches, heck yeah!