apostolakisl

Of course this is correct. However, it can be safely done if you only have hard wired loads on the neutral and thus can measure the total amps. However future modifications might be done without knowledge of your extra use of the neutral, which could pose an unsafe overcurrent situation. It is not hard to figure out if you have a switchloop. Turn off the breaker. Remove all of the switches and un-splice your wires at the light fixture's box. Cap all your wires. Turn your breaker back on and test your wires for the hot. If the hot is at the fixture's box, then you may be looking at a switch loop. If you have a swtich loop, then your neutral probably only exists at the fixture. If it is possible to pull a new wire between your fixture and any of your switch boxes, or if you can pull a hot/neutral from a different circuit into any of your switches boxes, this situation can be corrected. With a 4-way, you have plenty of conductors going switch-box to switch-box, so once you get a hot/neutral into any of the boxes, you can re-purpose the wires that go from box to box as hot/neutral. You can also put an in-line linc at the fixture itself, then re-purpose the two switchloop conductors from the fixtures box to the first switch box as hot/neutral. Then re-purpose your traveler wires that go from switch box to switch box as hot/neutral.

I would think that contacting SH directly would be in order here. If you are seriously looking at an order in the $50k price range, SH should be expected to make sure it works or not sell it to you.

Did you try a factory reset and restore? If factory reset and restore does not fix it, try a factory reset and don't join it back to ISY or create any links. If it still beeps, I suppose you could put it behind a filterlinc and see if it still beeps. If that doesn't fix it, then I would say there is pretty close to 100% chance that it is a bad device.

time lengths are short for testing purposes. kind of lost track with all of the parentheses. it is sorta working. when i open (and close) the interior door to enter the garage the lights comes on and stay ons for the programmed time period (about 30 secs) but if i leave the door open and walk into the garage the light comes on and starts the timer and once the timer expires the lights turn off but back on immediately and the timer restarts over and over again (lights going off and on) the motion is not resetting the timer. if a door is open and i try to manually turn off the lights the come back on instantly. Yes, I meant for it to keep the light on if the door was open. In other words, if you were standing there with the door open saying goodbye to someone or whatever, it would not turn off on you. The timer keeps resetting, but the light never actually shuts off on me. Probably because I have it on a 2 second dim rate and by the time it start dimming down, it just goes back up without a noticeable change. Also, when you post "code" use the "code" button at the top. It keeps all the tabs and spacing in place. Helps a lot with following parentheses.

It would be the door status. When you close the door, the door status changes, the program triggers again except now it is false. This ends the "then" clause and runs the "else" clause. Here is how I solved that. The name of this program is "back door" If Control 'Back Hall / Back Hall Ext Door-Breezway' is not switched On And ( ( Elk Zone 'Back Door' is Violated And Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Breez L' is Off And Program 'Dark Outside' is True ) Or ( Program 'back door' is True And Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Breez L' is not Off ) ) Then Set Scene 'Breezway S' On Wait 5 minutes Repeat 15 times Set 'Back Hall / Back Hall Ext Door-Breezway' 250 (Beep Duration) Wait 2 seconds Repeat 1 times Set Scene 'Breezway S' Off Run Program 'back door' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Notice the last clause Or ( Program 'back door' is True And Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Breez L' is not Off ) This tells ISY, if this program is already running and the light is on, then keep it true. So, when the door opens, the light turns on and the program starts running. When the door closes, the program triggers again and the first part is now false, but the "or" statement above is true, so the program still runs the "then" clause. It does start the timer over from scratch. Please also note that you need this final line of the "then" Run Program 'back door' (Else Path) This makes the program register as "false" as soon as it finishes. Also notice the first clause Control 'Back Hall / Back Hall Ext Door-Breezway' is not switched On This allows me to abort the timer by pushing the "on" paddle of that switch. Since it is a "control not switched on", it triggers with an "on" press (which aborts the wait/repeat) but the "not" causes the "else" clause to run.

This is clearly a very unskilled way to "pick" a lock. I put "pick" in quotes since it is actually forced entry. They aren't actually picking the lock but rather forcing the mechanism. To me, the worrisome point is that you can't see external evidence of forced entry and apparently even if you go to use it with the correct key you can't tell. But just be aware, any lock you might use on your house can be defeated pretty easily and not leave any sign of tampering by someone with limited access to tools and a few hours practice. I can tell you that virtually any lock with the standard pin/tumbler can be picked (picked not forced) quite easily. When I was in college I was always taking things apart and screwing around. Somehow I got onto locks. I made my own lock pick set out of a stainless steel spatula (chemistry lab) and a grinding wheel, and after a few hours practice I could pick any lock I was presented with in a couple minutes. Cheap locks I could pick in a few seconds since they had fewer pins and more slop in the mechanism, but even commercial style heavy duty locks never took me more than 5 minutes. Now I didn't run around picking every possible lock, so I am sure there are some I would have failed at, but again, I had a home made pick and no formal training and was shockingly successful. I did not go onto a career in the field of locksmithing or cat burglar, however.

As far as I can tell "repeat 0 times" is a non-functional command. If there is some use for it, I don't know what it would be. I would think that "0" should not be an option at all since it just confuses people.

My foscam cameras have sound activated alarms built-in and will send emails in response. These are the same cameras SH sells under the Insteon brand.

For you to actually shut your water off every time you leave the house, linking with a security system is sort of a must. You might actually shut it off as its own thing when you leave, but I bet you/your wife forget/lose interest. In fact, I have two remotes buttons in the car, one just does the normal garage door, the other shuts the door, sets the alarm, turns off the water and does a number of other things like put the house lights into away mode, shut of the tv, etc. With the simplicity, we never neglect to properly set the house to un-attended mode. Regarding the flow sensor types, I don't own one, but I believe they have algorithms that manage to ignore regular usage and not confuse that with a leak. But you would have to do more research on the subject. I know someone who has one and he has never complained about the water being shut off during regular usage. The "swimming pool in the house" is an obvious disaster in very short order. But small leaks while away for a few days can also be a disaster. Shutting the water off when out of town is an absolute must. In fact, I used to do that even years ago the old fashioned way, I turned the valve by hand. As far as the massive damage in short time, every story I have ever come across on that is the washing machine hose. It happened to my parents next door neighbor a few years ago and trashed their house in 2 hours while out to dinner.

I have the Elk WSV and the Elk panel. I have about 40 hard wired water sensors under all the fixtures and water using appliances. It has successfully dedicted one leak under the dishwasher that I would not have otherwise found until way too late. As it is, I had some minor buckling of my hardwood floor in the kitchen, but it could have been way worse since the leak was such that it was tracking under the floor, not on top. Sadly, there is no way to dry the space under the floor, so I had to just let it dry, and it did every so slightly buckle the floor a couple weeks later right in front of the dishwasher. But that beats the entire kitchen floor being trashed. I have the Elk shut off the house main every time we arm the system to away after a 30 minute delay to allow for dishwasher/washer to finish if already running. Not ideal, I know, but wife wouldn't have it any other way. But this prevents any sort of leak when out of the house (at least after 30 minutes of not being at the house), regardless of water sensor operation. You can never prevent 100% of leaks. I know 2 people who have leaks in their copper pipes right in the middle of a pipe. You obviously can't put leak detectors under every foot of pipe in your house. So you have to play the odds. A flow sensor style may have picked that up. But in my father's case, that would have done no good. It was a pipe in the ceiling above the kitchen, there would have been no way to know where to look until you saw the damage in the ceiling. It literally was a hole so small that the water spray I mistook for a cobweb and when I put my hand through it I couldn't even feel the water until I left it there for several seconds. Since I use hardwired Elk sensors and my Elk has 6 hours of backup, I should be covered pretty darn well as far as power outage. But having power failure and water leak at the same time is mostly unlikely. Aside from perhaps freezing pipes coinciding with a power failure, but usually power failures from cold weather happen around the 32 mark from heavy snow or more likely freezing rain, and that really isn't cold enough to freeze pipes. Plus they usually don't leak until after it warms again, and by that time power is typically restored. If you are out of town during such an event, no worries, the water is already off at my house (unless it happned in the first 30 minutes of being out of town). Of course if you have a potential pipe freezing event, it would be a good idea to not rely on the automated system but do an actual in depth manual check of all items at risk. Also keep in mind that ANYTHING YOU DO to shut your water off in the event of a leak is way more than 99% of people do since most people do notta. So even a system with some shortcomings still puts you way ahead of the curve and reduce a relatively small risk to a very small risk. Just make sure that you don't install a completely useless setup since that is just a waste of money. Also realize that most water events are not full out gushing open lines. Probably the only common exception to that is a ruptured washer hose. So get a good hose and make sure you take the effort to put a highly reliable and quick shut off mechanism under the washer. Most other water damage occurs from slow leaks that go undetected for long periods of time. So a slightly flawed system under such items may not get you instant shut off. Since your house is already built and an extensive hard wired system is probably out of the question, I would try to gauge the relative risk at any given location and install something at each location that balances the cost of installation against the cost/probability of an event at that location.

Like Lee said. "Is switched on" means someone went to the switch and tapped the on paddle once. That is the only thing, not dim up, not fast on, not being turned on from a program, not being turned on from a scene, not anything except a single tap to the up paddle.

You can use xathros' program. If you do not want his program to run, the person turning the light on can use the "fast on" (the double click). This will not trigger the program and the light will stay on. You can also add to his program And is not switched fast on This will allow you to abort that program if it is already running. I also use the "beep" function on my switches. When the timers are in the last minute, I have them beep every couple seconds to warn you that they are about to shut off. IF control light is switched on and control light is not switched fast on Then wait 4 minutes repeat 30 times beep wait 2 seconds repeat 1 time set light off Else - -

Also, the older switches need a power cycle before new settings take affect. EDIT: and by power cycle I mean flipping off the circuit breaker or pulling the reset tab.

Nice! I think my wallet and my live-in monitor needs a rest for a bit though. I am still populating my great room with some dimmer wall switches, yet. **sigh** Let me think... Landscape the side yard this year? or CAI? hmmmmmm... I'm sweating now. BACK to reality! Time to get out and blow the snow out of the driveway. Snow banks are almost 8 feet high at front. No typo and it's not letting up this year! Thanks for the tease though! You could probably program a CAI to automatically plow your driveway. Or you could move to Texas. I emailed the guy selling those kits to see if he would sell just the accessories, no board since I already have plenty of boards.

Awesome little board! Is there any prefabricated cases or power supplies for them? I just hit ebay with cai webcontrol and this little kit came up. I think it is exactly what you would want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAI-Webcontrol- ... 1e8655b090

I can't comment to the issues ioguy had. I have been real happy with mine (I have 10 of them). I have written some pretty big programs for them, but the nice thing for newbies is you can write something really short and simple. For example, this all the code you need to have CAI post temp to ISY once every 5 seconds. START WEBSET URL1 T1 WEBSET URL2 T2 WEBSET URL3 T3 WEBSET URL4 T4 (etc up to DELAY 5000 END Other steps include connecting the 1-wire sensors to the 1-wire terminal on CAI (up to 8 go on a single bus), connecting power to CAI, and configuring CAI with a user/pass and IP address. CAI has automatic enrollment of 1-wire sensors. Lastly, you need to configure URL1-8 with the IP address, user/pass and the REST language that ISY requires so that the temp gets posted to ISY variables of your choice. Certainly you could get way more complex with your CAI programming and perhaps take ISY out of the loop altogether and just let CAI monitor your temps, process things as per your requirements, turns things on/off, and send email notifications.

Awesome little board! Is there any prefabricated cases or power supplies for them? As far as the box, not that I know of. The wall wart is just a basic, normal, probably already have one, 9v deal.

This thread tells you how to configure CAI to post to ISY. viewtopic.php?f=81&t=10141&p=77241&hilit=watson#p77241 You would still need to write a small program on the CAI to tell it when to post what to where on ISY.

Do you have first hand experience with one-wire temp sensors on the CAI board? Do the one-wire temp sensors work well for ambient temperatures such that they react quickly enough to be effective for HVAC control? Yes, I have used them quite a bit. I haven't done any scientific eval on them to know how accurate they are, but they seem to be pretty accurate. They report .1 degree increments on the CAI and that posts over to ISY. Since it can't do decimals(like ISY), it posts the value times 10. So 25.1 would be 251. Lots of people use CAI with 1-wire to control heaters and venting fans and stuff. I am just using to track temps and send alerts.

Those types usually say that. The Kitchen and Bath caulk silicones typically contain a fungicide to prevent mold. I silicone grease my probe to the side of my PV batteries and cover it with a bit of urethane foam to keep it mostly "thermally in contact" and influenced by the liquid inside. There really isn't any point in making your own. They sell them pre-made water proof. Now I don't know much about fish, so maybe the pre-made ones are poisonous? But they look like stainless steel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Length-1M-DS18B ... 2c7b9c97fb And they are cheaper than I remember. EDIT: IF all else fails, read the directions. They are stainless steel.

I would use a CAI webcontrol board with one wire sensors. One wire sensors cost pennies each and the cai board is $35 and can handle 8 temp sensors. You can also get submersible one-wire temp sensors for about $5 each. The latest CAI firmware has the built-in ability to push temp measurements to ISY variables. You can set the CAI to deliver those values as you please. For example every so many minutes, or if the temp hits some number, or changes by some number, etc. You can find other threads in here talking about how to configure the CAI for the ISY. You will also need a project box of some sort to put the CAI into and a 9v wall wart.

My other devices that work correctly with non-toggle-off will blink twice I think, then turn off. Yes, I have a KPL with toggle off mode as well. It used to do that blink every time. But I improved communication and now the KPL shuts off when I push it and that is it. Lee could tell you for sure, but I am pretty sure the blink has to do with failed or perceived failed comm.

If pushing directly on the KPL button when it is on does not turn it off, then something is wrong with the KPL. And by backlight, I mean the individual button on/off backlight, not the overall so you can see it at night backlight. That is why I made the first comment about "when you push the KPL button it turns off, right?" with a question mark after it. Have you tried factory resetting it? What if you put it into regular on/off mode rather than toggle off mode. The blink you see I believe has to do with a communication issue. I believe it blinks if it didn't get ack from the target. Xathros has some knowledge of a firmware glitch regarding the non-toggle mode, so I would say that there is a chance it may not be fixable.

What if you push the KPL, then the backlight turns off, right? I think this would happen if you turn the scene containing the KPL off where ISY receives the scene off command, but the KPL does not receive the scene off command. Some of the guys who are more into the Insteon command sequence could confirm, but I believe that is correct. There are a number of situations where ISY has to make assumptions as to the status of a device based on commands received, not actual status reports from the devices. For example, I know for certain that a dim up or dim down of a scene does not report the actual status of the devices, but rather ISY times the length of the the dim up/down and then reports that as the status of the device. If you run a query after a dim up/down, you usually see ISY make a small adjustment to the percentage.

The backlight on the KPL may not be turning off for a couple reasons. 1) The lights in the scene were turned off via a mechanism that was not by turning off the scene that they share with the KPL 2) You have a comm issue. If you have a KPL that you want to be a non-toggle off for a single scene, and you want the KPL backlight to always show the status of the scene, then you must put them all into a single scene where the KPL is a controller of the scene. Also, all other ways of shutting off (or on) the lights in question must also be controllers of the scene. In the simplest situation, you might have a single switch that controls the load, and several other switches plus the kpl. All of the switches/kpl will need to be in the scene and all will need to be controllers of the scene. As an example of how it could get messed up, lets say you had another scene that also shut off the lights in question, if you used that scene, then your kpl would not shut off unless it were made a member of that scene as well (at least as a responder). Another example would be if the load switch was only a responder to the scene and not a controller. In that situation, turning that switch off would turn the lights off, but none of the other switches (or KPL) would show that change.