apostolakisl

So, I have an idea, why don't we solve the problem. 1) "Adjust Scene" is incorrect. When you are presented with a list that includes names of devices and scenes where it says "in scene", that is incorrect nomenclature. A device is not a scene and therefore should never be listed as on option for "in scene". UD should at least re-label the situation as I mentioned in another thread. This is confusing to say the least. 2) UD should also re-do "adjust scene" to include devices on their own. There are historical reasons for not being able to adjust devices programmatically, (the fact that a power cycle used to be require after such a change). But this limitation does not exist with devices made for years. 3) In the mean time, put any devices you want to adjust programmatically into a scene as a controller. If that means a one device scene, then so be it. This here is the point of this particular thread and could have been taken care of many posts ago.

Not sure what you are talking about. I have a scene I call "all" and it contains almost every one of my devices as a responder. There is no reason I could not add the last couple devices if I wanted to (but I don't which is why I have this scene, so i can turn all the lights on during a fire alarm and not also turn on the bathroom fans).

OK, it appears that a device that is not in any scenes doesn't show up at all. I really didn't notice this since damn near every single one of my devices is in a scene that is called "all devices" So my suggestion to you would be to create a scene and call it "all devices" and put them all in there.

I have to say, mine has some odd stuff that I would like explained. Items listed as devices, also bring up all devices that are responders to that device in the "set" drop down. If I change those other devices, and go to the scene menu for the scene it is a controller, then click on that device in the scene to get the "applied local" showing, it shows that the "set" device changed, just under the "applied local" setting for the primary device. The device does not change under its own "applied local" menu. If I select the same device in the "in scene" menu and the "set" menu, then it changes the local on level. . as expected.

You can adjust both the applied locally attributes, or the attributes as it responds to a scene. When using "adjust scene" (this is a bad name) you can adjust not only scenes but applied local. If you want to adjust the local attributes, then pick the device from the first section of the drop down list where it lists all your devices with a little square icon to the left. If you want to adjust the device as it responds to a scene, select the name of the scene (with the circle and 3 dots in it icon), then pick which device you want to adjust.

This would check for the status turning on, but exclude the remote. If control 'remote' is switched on then $i.outlettest = 1 wait 3 seconds $i.outlettest = 0 If status 'outletlinc' is on and $i.outlettest = 0 Then send email EDIT: or this might be better. If control 'remote' is switched on then disable program 2 wait 3 seconds enable program 2 Program 2 If status 'outletlinc' is on Then send email

If your outlet linc did a have a control switched on, using this as the trigger would not trigger the program from 'a stray signal' since the outlet linc would be the responder. control switched on only triggers when the on command was first generated by the device in question.

PLC firmware. The ribbon cable can be directly spliced to a cat5 or some other wire, you can use a screw down blocks, or you can punch it into a female cat5. What I have done is punch the ribbon cable into a female cat5 plug and then use standard cat5 patch cable to connect other stuff. That gets you 8 conductors which will be several more than I would expect you would need. You can cut an extra hole in that enclosure to mount the cat5. Or whatever.

You know, I am not 100% sure if safe mode stops programs that don't involve Insteon comm from executing. I suggest you give it a try, my suspicion is that it will work. Go ahead and write your programs that use a variable to trigger an email. Then unplug your plm. Then use REST commands to set the variable manually via the network. The ISY won't know the difference between a manual REST command and the webcontrol board doing it. As far as webcontrol enclosures, I have seen some sellers on ebay sell them with the custom enclosure. There is an enclosure out there designed for it. EDIT: here is the enclosure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WebControl-Metal-Chassis-/260319272733?pt=Home_Automation_Kits&hash=item3c9c3cdf1d EDIT again: You will also need the plug and ribbon cable for the input. It is listed in the user manual which you can download. I found them at a local store altex electronics. Not sure who else would have them in stock, maybe Fry's or Radio Shack? doubt Radio Shack, but maybe.

The PLM has nothing to do with network data (such as a webcontrol/raspberrypi/etc input or email/network resource command output) into and out of ISY. Putting a UPS on the PLM is a bad idea since it elliminates all power line data in/out of the PLM forcing at least one hop each way to be rf. Also, it accomplishes very little since pretty much none of your other Insteon devices will work in a power failure (except for battery operated stuff).

Webcontrol board, Raspberry Pi, Beagle Bone, etc. True, they don't come with enclosures, but they all have enclosures available separately. They are all quite reliable in the application you describe and can be inserted anywhere you like on your network, even in an outside network provided you set up port forwarding. Personally, I have lots of experience with webcontrol board which would only require a handful of lines of code to post to ISY. If you put your webctontrol board, router/modem/switch, and ISY on a UPS, all of this will work even in power outage. If it is email/text notification you are looking for, then webcontrol can do that directly without ISY. If you wanted more robust, put a cellular communicator for your internet backup..

I wrote a rule in Elk itself that chirps the outside sirens when armed away. I used to have it flash the lights next to the garage, but found that to be unnecessary. If you do that, and these same lights are supposed to be left on at night or during some certain hours of the day, then the last line of the program needs to call the program "if" clause that sets them in the first place. If elk is armed away Then set garage light to on wait 1 sec set garage light off run program 'evening outdoor lighting' if You can't chirp the sirens from ISY (that is one of the few features not included), so that is why I used an Elk rule.

I would get rid of the wait 1 minute in the first program. It opens the possibility of the program getting terminated during that 1 minute and the second program never running. Also, be aware that the way this is written, if you change the toilet light from any value above 61% to any other value above 61%, it will start the second program over again, or if you drop below 61% and then raise it back up. That may or may not be something you want to happen. If you want the second program to run all the way through, have it disable the first program as the first "then" line and the "enable" it again as the final line.

You could do the same thing without the variable. You are effectively using the variable to disable the program's back and forth. You would also get the same result using the 5 second delay on the synchrolinc itself, except that an on cycle that lasts fewer then 5 seconds would just get ignored. Since your original stated goal was to know if the pump was running continuously for a long time, then you would still be achieving your end goal. On program: If Status 'Sump' is On Then Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Sump on' enable program "off program" disable program "on program" Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Off program: If Status 'Sump' is Off Then Wait 5 seconds Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Sump off' enable program "on program" disable program "off program" Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

ISY does not store up its communications when the PLM is offline, waiting for it to come back online. But I have to wonder, what would you be trying to send an Insteon message to when the power comes back on?

Well, kinda. The time of year will alter things. In the winter (in the northern hemisphere), the arc the sun follows will be further South, it will be shorter, and the sun will move on that arc at a different speed. Santa Monica is fairly South, so it won't be as extreme an issue as say Seattle. There are programs that tell you exactly where the sun will be on any day of the year at any geographic location at any time. If you really want to nail it down, you need to consult those programs, then alter your shades per the date. Or you could just figure being off by a few minutes is no big deal and base it on a fixed time before/after sunset/rise.

My repaired plm seems to be in good shape but it is kind of hard to really test. I am not going to transfer over from my current plm to this one since that is kind of a big deal. I factory reset both my old isy99 and the repaired plm and have linked them together. but without any devices linked, I would not know if there was a corrupted table, which is always the first sign of a failing plm. I can say the led is nice and bright and the isy 99 says the plm is working. At this point, my assumption is these higher capacity, higher qualities caps are going to outlast my current factory plm. But who knows? It sure would be nice if someone could figure out a replacement part for that lamplinc diode. I have like 4 or 5 of them that I could probably fix in 10 minutes.

Compare his first program to the one he posted last.

While we are on the topic of soldering up pcb's, has anyone repaired one of the old lamplincs with the bad diode in it? I have a bunch of those that I wouldn't mind fixing if I had a part list and someone who confirmed that replacing that one diode would fix it.

I have one of those suckers. I have found that air works better. I normally use my air compressor, but it is on loan to my father in law. The air compressor cleans the solder out of there like it is a brand new untouched pcb. Not sure what company would put flammable gas in a air can. That sound like a law suit waiting to happen. They are supposed to have the non-ozone depleting refrigerant in them. My soldering iron is cheap and the tip just needs to be sanded. I only do this kind of stuff about 3 times per year, so I don't put much into the equipment . . . seeing as how this technique gives me soldering that looks better or equal to the factory. EDIT: Just read on wikipedia that the boiling liquid fluorinated carbons are flammable. I gave it a try and indeed you can get ignition if you turn the can upside down and spray liquid into a flame. Right side up, it doesn't ignite and in fact damn near blows out a high btu stove top burner.

Perhaps you meant to have your first 2 conditions together in parenthesis and'ed to the second 2 EDIT: looks like we figured it out at the same time.

I think I paid about $7 in shipping to TX. The shipping would pretty much be the same whether you ordered one set or 20 sets, or maybe even 100 sets. These caps could easily be put in a padded envelop and sent as regular mail for less than $1 (which mousser doesn't do). But that would require someone ordering a bunch of them, putting them in envelops collecting money, and then mailing out to fellow forum members.

I never said ISY and PLM are not communicating, that is via a highly reliable, short, cat5 wire. It is between the devices and PLM where comm could break down, that comm is insteon signalling and pretty much no one has perfect insteon comm. The PLM is ISY's ears and mouth, ISY hears the other devices through it and speaks its commands through it. You are now adding to the mix that there is a second program that you didn't mention prior and have not posted. Discovering now that you have a second program, this opens the possibility of circular logic which could easily be screwing things up, especially with all of the code looking for "status" of each device. ISY does understand 100% and "on" to be the same thing. This is not your problem. Trying writing some test programs for the buttons in question (and disable your other programs so as to avoid interference). You will see that turning the kpl, either by scene response or control, will trigger the following program true when you turn it on, and false when you turn it off. If Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L / Family Rm-Over MantleE' is 100% Then Repeat Every 1 minute $itest = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Just repaired mine. Sorry, I didn't take pictures, but I don't really think they would help. Mine seems to be working for 10 minutes now. My procedure. Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. I am not a pro at this, just a hobby guy. Following my directions should not be considered expert advice. Stuff 1) Fine tipped soldering iron 2) sand paper 3) solder 4) flux 5) can of compressed air 6) the parts 7) Vice Magnifying glass 9) Bright Light Procedure 1) Dissemble unit 2) Put unit in vice, heat up soldering gun, clean solder iron tip on sandpaper (repeat this cleaning step often) 3) Melt solder on one prong, simultaneously blow off solder with compressed air 4) Do the other prong, remove from vice, and remove cap. 5) Place new cap in place checking polarity (written on board) and bend wires out a bit to hold in place 6) Put back in vice 7) touch a dab of flux on the solder tip and solder using very little solder. Make sure to melt solder to hot board and wire, not from hot solder to board and wire. repeat to other 9) wiggle wire back and forth till it breaks off at solder edge. 10) Repeat for the others. 11) Blow off entire board and carefully inspect for any solder flecks and clean them off. (the blown solder does not melt into the other components should it hit them, it just lightly sticks there and is easily removed. But it will short stuff out if it is not removed.) 12) Reassemble Done.

Are you saying Mouser doesn't ship to Canada? I just ordered $500 worth of parts and had them delivered to a factory in China using Mouser.