apostolakisl

Sorry I did this from memory and "is not" availability does not exist for times, So instead swapping the logic in the the then else clause does the same thing (put the then clause stuff in the else clause and vice-versa). If time is 4 am to 8am and state variable temp is below -20 Then run program 2 else Else set heater off Program 2 If time is 8am (optional if you want heater to shut off at 8am no matter what) Then set heater off (optional if you want heater to shut off at 8am no matter what) enable program 1 (only needed if you include the optional if line) Else disable program 1 set heater on wait 3 hours enable program 1 run program 1 if So at 8am program 2 will be true and self trigger the then clause, a running else clause will terminate.

If time is 4 am to 8am and state variable temp is below -20 Then run program 2 then Else set heater off Program 2 If time is not 8am (optional if you want heater to shut off at 8am no matter what) Then disable program 1 set heater on wait 3 hours enable program 1 run program 1 if Else set heater off (optional if you want heater to shut off at 8am no matter what) enable program 1 (only needed if you include the optional if line) Not sure if this is exactly what you want. It will turn the heater on anytime between 4 am and 8 am that the temp is below 20. The heater will run for 3 hours no matter what else happens unless you include the optional lines listed.. If after 3 hours, program 1 is still true, it will leave the heater on for 3 more hours, if conditions are not met, it shuts the heater off. If you include the optional lines listed, the heater shuts off at 8am no matter what.

The fact that you are using a state variable means the program will re-trigger every time the temp changes. So your 3 hour timer will keep resetting every time the temp drops or goes up by 1 degree. Also, it will run false at 8am and stop the 3 hour wait, so the heater will never shut off (or at least not until the next day). Similarly, if the temp rises above -20 while the 3 hour wait is running, it will end the wait and the heater will again just stay on.

The program you first wrote will trigger every time the status of the synchrolinc changes. So if you are getting more than one email, then the synchrolinc is flipping on/off somewhere in there when it shouldn't. This could be a result of variations in the pump current draw. You can change the time out period on the synchrolinc and you can change the wattage trigger threshold. These might prevent it from reading on/off changes when none occurred. On the ISY, there is an "options" button at the bottom of the page for your synchrolinc where you can change those.

I would be happy to help test prototypes. Seems like the ones from SH are so consistent at burning up 1 month past warranty that it might be worth plugging it into 240v one month before warranty expires. . . .just to slightly hasten the inevitable. My original 2412s lasted quite a long time and in fact never burned out. I only replaced it because the 2413s had new features. Maybe I should have kept the 2412s, at least it had the feature of not burning up.

The thing with fridges is that you never handle any of the stuff that has power. All of that stuff is buried inside the machine. This means that only a short to the chassis could put the user in contact with a hot. But the chassis is grounded to earth so a regular breaker would pop as soon as that short happened. I suppose you could be changing the light bulb or futsing with the ice machine and in that case you could touch a hot and be grounded elsewhere. But those risks must not be considered worthy since as you said and I knew was the case as of 2009, it is not GFCI required.

Not sure about GFCI for dedicated fridge circuits. Mine are not GFCI and my house electric was built to code 5 years ago. Perhaps this is something some local jurisdictions require, but mime didn't. It doesn't really make sense to have a fridge on GFCI to me. I can't think of a way for a fridge to shock you aside from a short to the body of the fridge, which should cause the regular breaker to pop. I suppose it could happen.

Well this doesn't sound like poor design but rather plain old cheapskate code violating crappy work. For one, your kitchen fridge should be on its own dedicated breaker. However, a GFCI is not designed to pop on amps, it pops on failed balance between hot and neutral. Or in other words, there is a ground fault. So over-amping a circuit should be popping the regular panel breaker, not the gfci. Your problem is either an actual ground fault or possible some motors at start up have capacitance or some electric phenomenon that creates a short lived imbalance.

As Xathros said, but be sure to realize you need a second program that does the query every so often. If every 30 minutes then query garage freezer

This is how I would do it. I do have a lot of experience with CAI boards and 1-wire. CAI boards can push the 1-wire temp readings directly to ISY upon criteria of your choice within the cai programming. The cai can handle 8 1-wire sensors at a time. I just assumed you want the temp readings in ISY, but I don't know what the other thing(s) is/are and thus can't say if CAI would be able to provide that(ose) devices with the values as well . . . at least directly.

You can write a program that checks for "is responding" on Insteon items in the network on some schedule and set a variable if there is a failure, then it could set the variable back when it does respond. At first boot the ISY checks for the PLM and goes into safe mode if none is detected. I'm not sure if it goes into safe mode if the PLM goes off line after a successful boot. Even if it does, there is no programatic action you can take based on that.

You may not want to put the switches into your new house if they are a bit vintage on the firmware/hardware side. But I really believe that these switches on the whole will scare off a buyer and as such drop your house value. My approach would be: 1) hire a freelance electrician to take all the switches out. Probably end up costing $5/switch and pretty much no time lost or headache for me. 2) save the ones that I want to install in new house. 3) sell the rest on ebay. You make money because 1) your house probably sells for higher price/more quickly without the switches 2) you saved at least some of the switches for you new house 3) you sold the ones you didn't want in your new house for more than it cost to remove them 4) you don't get a million phone calls from the new owner of the house wasting your time (time is money) when they can't figure it out. An alternative would be to make it clear when selling the house that the "fancy" switches are optional and will be removed by you if the buyer doesn't want them. I suppose this might give you the best of both worlds where it does not scare off a buyer who is scared of such techie stuff and might get the special tech happy buyer super excited about your house.

If you put it between the surge protector and the wall outlet. The filterlinc isolates anything on its downstream side from the rest of the house. Of course you can't put anything Insteon on the downstream side either since it will now be isolated from the rest of the house.

I would say it would probably be worth it to remove them. . I am sure you could find a licensed electrician looking for some side work who would replace a whole house worth of them in a day. At $40 minimum for a switchlinc and double that for KPL's, I would expect several thousand dollars worth of switches could be replaced by an electrician for just a few hundred dollars. It helps of course if you still have the old switches (which I do).

You might be OK if there is nothing conductive going to your house. In other words, PVC water pipes and all power/ground lines go from well to electric panel without entering the house.

The other thing is to make sure you only have 1 ground for your house. Try to isolate all conduction to ground to one high quality ground. If you have more than 1 ground, and lightening hits the ground near your house, the earth builds a static potential charge which will drop exponentially with distance from the strike. For example, if lightening hits a tree 10 feet from the left side of your house and you have a ground there, and then you have another ground on the right side of your house 40 feet away, the charge difference will in some part pass in the one ground, through your house, and to the other ground, since the wires in your house probably are a lower impedance path than the Earth. I like to think of it like a boat on an ocean of waves of electric potential. You want your whole house :"floating" on one point so it rises and falls together, not thrashing from side to side. The other option is to ring your house with grounds every few feet and tie them all together. This in effect makes all the grounds behave as one. But that is not very practical. This is however how high value, high risk sites are treated.

I also have 3 of the Leviton 51120-1 I put one each on my 3 panels. These do not conflict with Insteon comm. I do not really know if they work. I can tell you that while I was out of town a big lightening storm happened and I returned to find one of my Elk relays running a sprinkler zone stuck on and my OBI 110 with a fried telephone output. However, all of these fried things were on the output side of these devices, not the 120v input side. So maybe the Leviton did save things?

That seems to be what Mwarren was talking about. But it doesn't explain why the program is listed as running for an extended period of time. In fact, it should prevent that.

Weather the motion sensor is locked out or not (I don't know about this), the fact that he says the program is listed as running means that it must be getting re-triggered since the program should end in about 12 seconds or so. A re-trigger should start the program over and cause the lights to keep blinking. It seems like that is not happening, but I don't know. Try splitting the program in two and disabling the trigger. Program 1 If motion detector is switched on then run program 2 disable program 1 Program 2 If blank repeat 3 times light on wait 2 sec light off wait 2 sec repeat 1 time enable program 1

Insteon 3 way is very different. A regular 3-way setup has both switches switching power back and forth between 2 wires that go between the 2 switches which then either powers or doesn't power the fixture depending on which way the 2 switches are positioned. With Insteon, only one of the switches actually switches power to the fixture, the other switches (when properly programmed) simply instructs the controlling switch to turn power on/off using the power line or radio communications. In this way, the 2 (or more) switches do not have to be directly connected to each other.

That is because you need to turn the scene on from ISY, not a single switch (assuming you want to turn the scene on). A single switch receiving a command to turn on just turns itself on, it does not activate the scene. Think about it for a minute. If turning on a switch from another device caused the switch to trigger a scene that it controls, then you could never have a switch be a responder of any other scenes. Every time you would turn that device on, then the scene would turn on. This defeats much of the versatility of Insteon. A switch can be a member of multiple scenes to which it only responds, and a controller of one. Also understand that the PLM/ISY is a controller of every device individually. In other words, ISY is basically a controller of a 2 member scene for every single device you have (ISY is one member and the device the other). Also keep in mind that some switches have multiple nodes (like the 6 and 8 button kpl's) so each button can be a controller or reponsder in scenes separately. .. as though they were multiple devices. A switch will only send out a scene command if 1) it is set of a controller of that scene and 2) you act directly on that switch (you actually push the button on the switch).

ISY can "crawl" you network. Basically, it will start with one or more devices check the links, go find those devices, add them, check their links, go find them, and so on and so forth. Unless your "buried" devices live on an "insteon island" they will probably be captured by a system crawl. Once this is done, ISY will display every single device and the Insteon address under the "my lighting" button in the main tree. If you are happy with how everything is setup and linked, you can use it that way. Or, you could make a list of all the devices and their addresses, delete the whole thing, and start over from scratch wiping each device as you add it. Then create your links from scratch.

Good to hear Michel. Taking things into your own hands sadly would seem to be the only way with SH. Put me on the list of those in need!

That is because the Elk module license is applied to your dad's original isy. You will need to contact UD and have them migrate the license to the ISY your gave your dad.

That seems to be new. I am almost 100% sure that it used to be that dimmers had the option of "on" and "100%" in programs, though they were treated identically. It makes sense to not have both 100% and on since they are identical, so if indeed "on" was removed, it makes perfect sense.