apostolakisl

You could do the same thing without the variable. You are effectively using the variable to disable the program's back and forth. You would also get the same result using the 5 second delay on the synchrolinc itself, except that an on cycle that lasts fewer then 5 seconds would just get ignored. Since your original stated goal was to know if the pump was running continuously for a long time, then you would still be achieving your end goal. On program: If Status 'Sump' is On Then Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Sump on' enable program "off program" disable program "on program" Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Off program: If Status 'Sump' is Off Then Wait 5 seconds Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Sump off' enable program "on program" disable program "off program" Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

ISY does not store up its communications when the PLM is offline, waiting for it to come back online. But I have to wonder, what would you be trying to send an Insteon message to when the power comes back on?

Well, kinda. The time of year will alter things. In the winter (in the northern hemisphere), the arc the sun follows will be further South, it will be shorter, and the sun will move on that arc at a different speed. Santa Monica is fairly South, so it won't be as extreme an issue as say Seattle. There are programs that tell you exactly where the sun will be on any day of the year at any geographic location at any time. If you really want to nail it down, you need to consult those programs, then alter your shades per the date. Or you could just figure being off by a few minutes is no big deal and base it on a fixed time before/after sunset/rise.

My repaired plm seems to be in good shape but it is kind of hard to really test. I am not going to transfer over from my current plm to this one since that is kind of a big deal. I factory reset both my old isy99 and the repaired plm and have linked them together. but without any devices linked, I would not know if there was a corrupted table, which is always the first sign of a failing plm. I can say the led is nice and bright and the isy 99 says the plm is working. At this point, my assumption is these higher capacity, higher qualities caps are going to outlast my current factory plm. But who knows? It sure would be nice if someone could figure out a replacement part for that lamplinc diode. I have like 4 or 5 of them that I could probably fix in 10 minutes.

Compare his first program to the one he posted last.

While we are on the topic of soldering up pcb's, has anyone repaired one of the old lamplincs with the bad diode in it? I have a bunch of those that I wouldn't mind fixing if I had a part list and someone who confirmed that replacing that one diode would fix it.

I have one of those suckers. I have found that air works better. I normally use my air compressor, but it is on loan to my father in law. The air compressor cleans the solder out of there like it is a brand new untouched pcb. Not sure what company would put flammable gas in a air can. That sound like a law suit waiting to happen. They are supposed to have the non-ozone depleting refrigerant in them. My soldering iron is cheap and the tip just needs to be sanded. I only do this kind of stuff about 3 times per year, so I don't put much into the equipment . . . seeing as how this technique gives me soldering that looks better or equal to the factory. EDIT: Just read on wikipedia that the boiling liquid fluorinated carbons are flammable. I gave it a try and indeed you can get ignition if you turn the can upside down and spray liquid into a flame. Right side up, it doesn't ignite and in fact damn near blows out a high btu stove top burner.

Perhaps you meant to have your first 2 conditions together in parenthesis and'ed to the second 2 EDIT: looks like we figured it out at the same time.

I think I paid about $7 in shipping to TX. The shipping would pretty much be the same whether you ordered one set or 20 sets, or maybe even 100 sets. These caps could easily be put in a padded envelop and sent as regular mail for less than $1 (which mousser doesn't do). But that would require someone ordering a bunch of them, putting them in envelops collecting money, and then mailing out to fellow forum members.

I never said ISY and PLM are not communicating, that is via a highly reliable, short, cat5 wire. It is between the devices and PLM where comm could break down, that comm is insteon signalling and pretty much no one has perfect insteon comm. The PLM is ISY's ears and mouth, ISY hears the other devices through it and speaks its commands through it. You are now adding to the mix that there is a second program that you didn't mention prior and have not posted. Discovering now that you have a second program, this opens the possibility of circular logic which could easily be screwing things up, especially with all of the code looking for "status" of each device. ISY does understand 100% and "on" to be the same thing. This is not your problem. Trying writing some test programs for the buttons in question (and disable your other programs so as to avoid interference). You will see that turning the kpl, either by scene response or control, will trigger the following program true when you turn it on, and false when you turn it off. If Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L / Family Rm-Over MantleE' is 100% Then Repeat Every 1 minute $itest = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Just repaired mine. Sorry, I didn't take pictures, but I don't really think they would help. Mine seems to be working for 10 minutes now. My procedure. Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. I am not a pro at this, just a hobby guy. Following my directions should not be considered expert advice. Stuff 1) Fine tipped soldering iron 2) sand paper 3) solder 4) flux 5) can of compressed air 6) the parts 7) Vice Magnifying glass 9) Bright Light Procedure 1) Dissemble unit 2) Put unit in vice, heat up soldering gun, clean solder iron tip on sandpaper (repeat this cleaning step often) 3) Melt solder on one prong, simultaneously blow off solder with compressed air 4) Do the other prong, remove from vice, and remove cap. 5) Place new cap in place checking polarity (written on board) and bend wires out a bit to hold in place 6) Put back in vice 7) touch a dab of flux on the solder tip and solder using very little solder. Make sure to melt solder to hot board and wire, not from hot solder to board and wire. repeat to other 9) wiggle wire back and forth till it breaks off at solder edge. 10) Repeat for the others. 11) Blow off entire board and carefully inspect for any solder flecks and clean them off. (the blown solder does not melt into the other components should it hit them, it just lightly sticks there and is easily removed. But it will short stuff out if it is not removed.) 12) Reassemble Done.

Are you saying Mouser doesn't ship to Canada? I just ordered $500 worth of parts and had them delivered to a factory in China using Mouser.

If a scene command is written to turn the kpl on, and the kpl receives the scene command, the kpl turns on. But if the PLM does not receive that same scene command, it will not know it turned on. Conversely if the scene is turned on, and the PLM receives the message, but the KPL button does not, then the PLM will think it is on, but it is not.

What ISY "thinks" the status of the KPL is the only thing that matters as far as programs are concerned and is all about the com. If the ISY did not receive the insteon message of the most recent change, then ISY will have the status wrong and the program will not execute as you expect. Programs do not query the device when they run, they only check their own register to see what it was last time it received a status update. I am about 99% certain your problem is missed com's, not anything with the ISY program or internal logic. Try using dual band kpl, adding more dual band devices in general, or finding signal sucking/noise problems in your home. You can also try adding a test program to send you an email every time ISY sees the switch status change. Your emails will then create a log of every status change. Compare that to your actual usage.

Yes, the 400v one that replaces the 250v one is the one to which I refer. The others are more or less the same size as the ones they replace.

I ordered and received the parts. I will do the soldering this weekend. I'll take a few photos, but it isn't rocket science. The thread lists which ones go in which spot (the pcb has all the caps numbered c1, c2, c3, etc). Caps do have polarity, so you have to note which way they go before removing them so that you put the new ones in the same way. Also, the one cap is substantially larger than the one it replaces, but I think it will still fit OK.

Safe mode is what happens when there is no PLM. Odds are VERY high that it is your PLM. Is it jut a bit over 2 years old? They are programmed to self destruct just after the warranty. They are made with a number of cheapo capacitors that burn out in just about exactly 26 months. There are a number of threads on the forum, one fairly recent about this. If you are skilled with electornics and soldering, you can fix it yourself per the parts list on that thread. Also, UD is making their own PLM of high quality materials. But that is no yet for sale. EDIT: Here is the thread http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

I believe one of the recent firmware upgrades got rid of "on" for all dimmable devices. There was a lot of confusion of what "on" meant (it meant 100%), but lots of people thought of it more as "not off". I agree that a kpl button itself is either on or off, so probably having the percentage thing is bad. Anyway, using 100% or "not off" should be working. You may have a com issue. Can you confirm that the com is good?

You best put a ticket in on that one. No idea.

Like I said, there is no need to lose your programs. Just export them before the reset then re-import them. It takes a few seconds is all. But all of your programs will presumably be referencing Insteon devices which no longer exist. So there is going to be a lot of work when you add all the devices. By network settings, if you just mean IP address, port numbers, and the like, that is very minimal configuration. If you have the network module and a bunch of network resources setup, those can be exported and then re-imported.

Since it seems as though you are starting from scratch, why not just factory reset the ISY? http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Restarting_Your_ISY-99i Although I see you still have a bunch of scenes, I guess they have no members in them? If you want to reuse your programs, you can always export programs before the factory reset and then restore them. Same with network resources. Variables would need to be manually renamed, so save a screen shot of them if you need to restore them. Same with emails and notifications.

I know you want actual experience, so I am sorry for saying I don't have that with this device, but it looks interesting to me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/170724913886?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 From me reading, I believe there should be no problem controlling it using ISY's network module. The advantages I see here is that 1) no worries about insteon signaling issues. 2) 16 relays for $145 Not sure about how confirmation of the state of a relay can be relayed back to ISY. This is always a problem with ISY and using Insteon because of Insteon comm failure and then ISY listing the wrong state. It appears the state of a relay is easily confirmed using the apps they provide or writing your own. Perhaps it can be programmed to send a REST command to ISY with relay state changes setting ISY variables. Probably not, but maybe. In my experience using ip comm with the webcontrol board, response time is very fast, "instant" to the naked eye. Insteon comm usually has a lag.

I was able to get an Elk valve for $300 a few years back. If you poke around this forum or maybe cocoontech, I believe there are some threads where the OEM was identified and alternative sources for purchase were found at a better price. I use my Elk security panel to control the valve. It is a very good valve that in my case actuates multiples times every day and is now 5 years old. I have my water turn off every time the alarm arms away. I also have about 25 water sensors scattered about the house. But like I said, you can have leaks anywhere and you can't put the sensors everywhere. I have seen devices that monitor flow for suspicion of leak. They have an algorithm built in which mostly can tell the difference between actual purposeful use and a leak. But just plain turning the water off never fails. This assumes you don't have some appliance that must have water while you are away. Also, my Elk valve is after the split off to the outside hose bibs. They don't shut off. My irrigation is on a well. I don't know if you plan on security, but Elk and ISY integrate very well (requires Elk module for ISY).

You should put in a whole house powered water valve. Elk makes a very good one, it is pricey. You can control with Insteon IO linc. I would just shut the water off when you are not there. If you are going to be away for extended periods of time you can't trust leak detectors because they can't be everywhere. An appliance linc can be used to power cycle your DVR or anything else for that matter. I have never ever had to power cycle my ISY. Unfortunately, if you have an issue with your modem/router you won't be able to talk to your ISY. I suppose you could figure a way to program the ISY to power cycle the modem/router if it fails to communicate with the internet. Just quick thinking it might involve having a REST command sent to your ISY daily via internet that sets a variable at some regular interval. Then a program in ISY looks for that, if it doesn't see it, then it power cycles the modem/router. That is just a thought. For example, it sets a variable to 1 at MN and 0 at noon, then a program on ISY runs a program at 12:01 am that looks for 1 and one at 12:01pm that looks for it to be 0. If not, reset the modem. EDIT: Or I suppose use the web-power switch. Hadn't seen one of those. Don't know what it costs, it might be more cost effective to use appliance lincs, especially if all of your power cords aren't in the same place.

You create a couple of temporary variables just for testing. Then you put a line in your program that says $i.test.variable +=1 Each time that line of code runs, it adds 1 to the variable and then you know how many times it ran.