apostolakisl

No, I'm not familiar with Honeywell so it wouldn't be of much use.

Since it is all on the nest website, what about software that logs into the website, parses it out (I assume once logged in it puts up a summary page with all the relevant data like actual temp and set temp), then posts to isy variables using REST?

what alarm do you have?

If your alarm has programmable outputs, you can use them to signal an IO linc (probably would need an intervening relay) when the motion detector triggers. You also could have your motion detector control a double pole relay with one pole going to your alarm and the other going to an IO linc. But as mentioned, definitely no emails to ISY. Maybe with some fancy programming you could get a PC to receive your email and then post a REST command to ISY that turns the light on.

Do you have any troubles controlling the two switches independently from the ISY admin console? By independently, I mean when you select the switch itself, not the scene from the directory tree in the left hand pane of the main page of ISY. How about if you select the scene? Do both switches turn on/off when you click on the scene in the left pane and then click the on/off at the bottom of the right pane? If you turn on "event viewer" from the "tools/diagnostic" menu and set to level 3, it will show all the communications. You can copy that to the forum. LeeG is quite adept and interpreting those.

You may just be having communication issues. Are these your first two switches? Do you have other switches that are working? What type of light are the switches controlling?

Is switch 2 the load? Do the LED's on the switch go up when you push it on? If switch 2 is the load (the one the actual light is connected to) and the "applied local" on level is 0 or something really low, this can happen. So be sure to check the "applied local" on level for that switch. The applied local setting can be found under the scene when you click on switch 2 under the scene on the tree in the left pane, or it is what you see when you click on the individual device. If this doesn't answer your problem, try deleting the scene and re-build it from scratch. If that doesn't work, try removing the devices from ISY completely and re-add them, then rebuild the scene.

I was thinking perhaps your wiring was wrong, but that sounds not to be the case. I'm not sure how you could have crossed linked the 2 switches and accidentally changed the on level to zero, but as Lee suggested, that needs to be checked. If both switches turn the light on from the off position, but once there, only one switch turns the light off once on, I can't think of any other possibilities. From ISY "main" page, find the scene on the left side tree. Click on it. You should see the 2 switches "on level" and "ramp rate" listed in the right pane at the bottom of the screen (they are sliders). Be certain that both switches list the "on level" to be correct (this is your choice, but for the purpose of figuring this out, I would set them to 100%). Also, click directly on each of the 2 switches over in the tree on the left. You should see "applied locally" over in the right side pane next to that switch. Make sure it is also 100%. Do that for both switches in the scene. The default is for all of those things to be 100%. So somehow you would have needed to accidentally change that for them to be different, but certainly possible for someone just learning this stuff.

When you turn off the switch that only turns the light off, does the other switch go completely dead? In other words, do the LED lights on the switch shut off?

I agree with oberkc. This would be better as a scene that involves no programs. By doing it this way you are giving work to ISY where none is necessary and you are adding three extra sets of simultaneous Insteon PLC commands that may clash and cause failures to communicate. Lastly, as a scene, the buttons will all respond much quicker. I am going to assume that you are not using the 3 kpl buttons for any other purpose aside from what I see here, (as a way to know the status of 'kitchen_oh') First off, is the intent to have those 3 kpl buttons control 'kitchen_oh' or just track it? - If control it, then delete those 3 scenes (Media_Keypad_D, Garage_Keypad_D, Frontdoor_Keypad_D) and create a new scene. Add the 3 kpl buttons and 'kitchen_oh' switch to that scene, all as controllers. (NOTE: I am assuming 'kitchen_oh' is not already in a scene) In this way, all 3 kpl buttons and 'kitchen_oh' will all turn on/off together regardless of which of the 4 you use to turn the light on/off. - If the intent is only to follow the status of 'kithcen_oh' with the 3 kpl's, then put the 3 KPL buttons in to that same scene as responders only and 'kitchen_oh' as the only controller. Of course if you actually push any of those 3 kpl buttons, the KPL button itself will toggle it's backlight, but nothing else will happen (such that it is now out of sync).

Really we need more details on what you are doing. I assume the honeywell keyfob is connected to the Elk as an Elk supported keyfob. I don't believe that ISY can see keyfobs connected to Elk directly (like a zone or output), but I am not sure since I don't have this type of keyfob on my elk. I also assume you are using more things than just the keyfob to turn that scene on/off, which is how it gets out of sync. The simplest way to solve this problem is to have a device that tracts the last use of that scene. For example, pick a switch that is in that scene that best represents the current status of that scene. In Elk, set an output to indicate that the keyfob has been pushed. Elk program Whenever keyfob is pushed Then Set output x on for 1 second ISY programs If status of (switch you are using as the indicator of scene status) is not off Then set integer variable scene tracker to 1 Else set integer variable scene tracker to 0 If Elk output x turns on and variable scene tracker is 1 Then set scene off Else set scene on The key to modifying this setup is to the program that sets the variable to 1 or 0. You would alter your if section so as to best represent whether the scene is "on" or "off".

Personally I like my program using the variable best and these are the reasons (you may disagree). 1) It keeps the logic in one program, only separating the time frame apart from the main logic. 2) It avoids disabled programs. I don't like disabled programs because sometimes you want to hit the "disable all" button to run scene tests. When done with that I like to hit "enable all". The more random disabled programs you have, the more you have to annotate and then re-disable after doing the "enable all". When you have as many programs as i do, that gets arduous and sometimes I miss some and then weird stuff happens. 3) It accomplished (I think) exactly what the original poster wanted. However, I think oberkc's program and vyrolan's second program are darn near as good.

I agree with Lee in that you should set it to non-toggle off mode. But I would add a few other suggestions. 1) Do as Lee said, set the 3 KPL buttons as non-toggle off 2) Remove your 3 kpls from any scenes they are currently "controllers" of 3) add your 3 kpl buttons to the scene "every light off" as controllers. 4) Create scene for your 3 KPL's where they are just responders (I will call this scene kpl off scene) 5) Delete the program you currently have 6) Create a program that goes as follows If status device 1 is not off status device 2 is not off status device 3 is not off etc etc Then set scene 'kpl off" on You will need to put every single switch you have in your "every light off" scene into this program in the "status device 1,2,3,etc is not off" section, or at least every one that carries a load. Here is my program. I only have one kpl, but you can have multiple. If Status 'Back Hall / Back Hall Gar Dr-Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Breakfast Room / Breakfast Rm - Chand L' is not Off Or Status 'Dining Room / Dining Rm @ Fam-Chand L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Pat lts L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Room-Ceiling L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer-Portico Can L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer @ Music-Barrel Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer-Coach L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Garage-Floures L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Breez L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Coach L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen Intercom-Island L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen Intercom-Puck L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen-Over Sink L' is not Off Or Status 'Living Room / Living Rm-Couch Lamps L' is not Off Or Status 'Living Room / Living Rm-Wine Rm L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs Arch-Chandalier L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs by Gst-Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs-Arches L' is not Off Then Set Scene 'Master Keypad B' On Else Set Scene 'Master Keypad B' Off Now, this will allow all 3 kpls when pushed to turn off all the lights in the scene "every light off" when pushed It will also light up the 3 buttons any time any of the lights is on. In my personal example, I did not put all of the devices in the scene. I specifically left off a number of devices, such as those in other bedrooms/bathrooms as the intent for me was to shut off the lights in the house at bedtime except those where other people may still be using them.

I don't have the official Elk keyfob, but based on your description, it sounds like it is not currently a supported device for ISY. Simple solution is to use an Elk rule that turns an elk output on when you hit the keyfob as go-between to ISY. ie Whenever keyfob x is pressed Then turn output y on for 1 second Now in ISY If Elk output y is on Then Set scene z on

I just realized I made a logic error above. So I edited it.

The most common use of "else" command is as follows. If From x time to y time Then set light on Else set light off This program has 2 triggers, the from time, and the else time. At the "from" time, it runs true, at the "to" time it runs false. So the above program would be a simple timer turning the light on at time x and off at time y. You can redo your above program as follows If From Sunrise + 1 second To Sunset - 46 minutes (same day) Then Set Integer variable to 1 Else Set Integer variable to 0 If Control 'Remote Entrance' is switched Off And Integer variable is 1 Then Set 'Condition' On Set 'Foyer' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Foyer' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Foyer' 1 (Beep Duration) Set 'Foyer' 1 (Beep Duration) Else Set 'Condition' On Set Scene 'ALL LIGHTS and PLUGS - CONDIT' Fast Off Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'Sunset OUT OF HOUSE' On This fixes the problem because an integer variable is not a trigger. So you don't get the extra triggers of the "from" and "to" times running false. This can be a nice solution if you have multiple programs running on that same time schedule since you can use that variable in all those programs. And an additional solution would be to put your original program into a folder with conditions

Yes...all the stuff on the same circuit are "the same hot and same neutral" whether they're in the same box or not. It's just one continuous flow out from the breaker (along the "hot" wires) and then back to the breaker (along the neutrals). Agreed. Just that if they are both load bearing switches then the watt capacity gets downgraded. Too much heat too close together. Yeah, I've done that. And I never turn the power off either. But I don't suggest those things to other people. By the way, if you so choose to not turn the power off (at your own risk of course), be sure to pull the air gap on the Insteon switches first. The arcing is not good for them.

The xep will almost certainly put your Elk over the current limit if you use the regular Elk power supply and battery. Even if it doesn't, it will bring you battery backup time down. You can download the Elk current calculation forms from their website. So, assuming a UPS doesn't fit in the cabinet, then you will need to mount one outside of it and bring a wire out.

ethernet switch. The Elk can directly send you emails for all of those things. But I know some people can't get Elk email to work because of their email server or whatever. But if Elk works with your email, I would go direct from Elk. The main benefit of ISY email is the ability to input variables like zone status and stuff but you didn't mention that. For sure xep has to be on UPS to get anything sent to you during a power failure except "loss of comm" which would come from ISY.

Is this the only reason you need ISY to keep working during a power failure? Here is what I see. Mandatory UPS item: your router/switches/modem/gateway/whatever stuff you own that makes your internet work Then the either your xep or your ISY has to be on a UPS. If xep is on UPS, then use Elk's email function to send you a text or email when it experiences AC outage (this is a direct rule located under the whenever/misc. system/troubles/AC power failure) If ISY only is on UPS, then use ISY program option Elk/system/status is not connected to send you a message when the Elk loses comm. This of course will be a generic warning that could have other causes beside AC failure, but AC failure would cause a loss of comm if the xep were not on backup power. IF ISY and XEP are on backup power, and you want ISY to send the email, you will need to have Elk trigger a rule on power failure that changes an output (used as a flag). Then ISY responds to the output change by sending you an email. But unless you really can't get Elk to send you the email, this is extra work that serves no purpose.

If all 6 wires are disconnected (both of the 3 way switches were unhooked and the wires not connected to anything), then just one of the 6 wires should have 120v on it. So, if the red in one box tested 120v, and the others are 0v, then indeed that is your hot. There is no other way about it. There are normal ways to color code these things, but that doesn't mean the normal way was followed. But regardless of color, there will always be 2 travelers and a load at one box, and 2 travelers and a hot at the other. There is no other way for standard 3 way wiring to work. So when in doubt, it always work to actually test. Here is the theory: Both switches need an unswitched hot. In a 3 way switch, you will only have this at one box. You need to find that hot and connect it to one of the travelers. Now what used to be a traveler, is an unswitched hot providing the second box with its unswitched hot. Both of those hots are use to power the insteon switch and thus connected to the Insteon black wire. The other traveler wire will typically not be needed and should just be capped at each end. The neutrals are local to both boxes and will be connected to the Insteon neutral. If by chance one box did not have a neutral, you could use the other traveler to bring neutral over. Finally, the box with the load gets connected to the Insteon red (this is where the switch outputs power when you turn it on). In the other box, the Insteon switch has no connection to any load, so you MUST cap off that red wire. Whenever that switch is on, the red load wire on the Insteon switch will be hot.

Specifically, how I used the resistor solution is as follows. I used some old christmas tree lights and cut the wire off about 1/4 inch from the passthrough plug. Then I soldered on the resistor and sealed it up with some heat shrink insulation. I made a couple to have around Then you plug that into the lamp linc and then whatever else you want. It pretty much is the closest thing to an invisible cure for this problem without cutting into your actual load device.

From what you said, you have neutrals. It is very hard for someone who is not there to make heads or tails of the wire colors and if they are jacketed together what that means. If you follow the protocol I spelled out, you should have success no matter whether the wires go through the load box or go directly from switch box to switch box with another wire going off to the load box.

The big "if" that you have here is: do you have a neutral in each box. This will be a white wire and it will not be one of the 3 wires connected to the switch. If you don't have any whites like this, then you really don't need to read on. Just let us know about that. In a triple gang box, you will usually have several of them spliced together and tucked in the back of the box, not connected to any switches. In a 3 way switch, at one box, one of the 3 wires is "hot", or in other words, always has 120vac. At that same box, the other 2 wires will be travelers (wires that run between the 2 boxes). At the other box, 2 will be travelers and the third is the load. NOTE: Travelers can be black and red, or black and white with the white re-purposed as a hot. They should have tagged a white used like this, but probably didn't. Also, the traveler wires may run through the box at the lamp and may be spliced. So, just because the travelers are black and white at one box doesn't mean they will be black and white at the other. Basic procedure to figure this out in most cases. This requires a multi meter. This also requires working with hot wires, so if you aren't skilled to do this, hire an electrician. 1) Turn off breaker 2) Unhook both switches completely 3) Hang the wires out of the box with the bare ends well away from anything else and put wire nuts on them. 4) Turn the breaker back on 5) Uncap the wires one at a time and touch your volt meter to the bare metal tip and the other lead to the bare ground wire in the box. 6) You should find that one of the 6 wires is hot. Tag it as such. 7) Turn the breaker off again. Now you need to figure out which is the load (wire to the light itself) and which 2 are the travelers. In the box with the hot, set your meter on ohms and attach it to the 2 wires that aren't the hot (leave the hot capped off). Then have your buddy go to the other box and touch together the wires, 2 at a time until you see the circuit close (ohms drop to ~0). Now you know those 2 are the travelers, tag them. 9) Now you know the only wire left over goes to the load, tag it as such. Now putting your Insteon switches in. 1) Connect your Insteon Neutral to a neutral in the box. This is a white wire in the box that is NOT connected to a switch. Usually in a 3 gang box there will be several of them spliced together and tucked in the back of the box. 2) Connect your ground. 3) In the box with the hot, connect one of your traveler wires (use a black or red), the Insteon hot, and the house hot together and cap it off. 4) At the box without the load, cap the red wire on the insteon switch 5) At the other box, connect your ground and neutral the same way. 6) Connect your Insteon load (red) to the load wire we labeled earlier in the box. 7) Now you have 2 figure out which of the 2 travelers is now your new hot. With both wires capped, turn the breaker back on. Your first switch should turn on. Now at the other location, uncap one wire and touch your meter (now set to volts) to the wire and the other lead to a ground. If it reads 0, test the other. One of them should be 120vac. Once you know which it is, cap it and turn the power off. Now connect that wire to your Insteon hot. 9) Turn power back on, both switches should light up. The switch at the load will have control of the light. The other switch will need to be linked using your ISY to create a scene for it to work.

No harm in rebooting the ISY and PLM. I suspect that this won't fix it, but nothing lost by trying. I don't know why the Elk would be causing this. But again, no harm in temporarily taking it out of the equation and testing. Since my system runs the program fine, and since I also have an Elk with the Elk module, if Elk is somehow the problem for you, it is not an inherent problem of the Elk/ISY system. If this proves fruitless, I suspect you would need to start an official service ticket with Michel. The fact that you can run the program fine with your 6 button kpl makes me doubt it is any kind of general system issue such as an overloaded processor from something running in a loop or getting overwhelmed by some Elk bombardment. It also makes me doubt it is an ISY issue since ISY doesn't really handle a "control on" command any different on a switchlinc vs a kpl.