apostolakisl

My guess is that you had a poor connection with some arcing under the wire nut. The tinned multi-stranded wires aren't the easiest things to splice. They are nice and flexible, however.

Yes, I think you are saying the right thing. You have 8 items in the if section. All of those 8 items are trigger events, meaning that should they happen, this program will end the "wait" clause, and start over from scratch. If it so happens that the "if" event was true, the timer (wait) will start over, If the "if" event is false, the else clause will run, which in this case is empty.

OK, so you had some phantom links or partial links between the switches, somehow, which are now fixed, I think. I am wondering if both switches are set as controllers. Make sure both switches under the scene on the left hand pane are colored red. When pressing any Insteon switch, the local led's will always ramp at the applied local rate. This is set from within a scene by clicking the device under the scene, or by clicking on the device where it is in the left pane as its own thing. When a switch is a controller, the other switches in the scene will react according to the settings in the scene for each switch. The load(s) will respond according to the behavior of the switch they are attached to. NOTE: the "on level" works the same as the "ramp rate" If you want to create a virtual 3-way where all switches behave exactly the same: 1) Click on the scene in the left pane of the main page of ISY admin console 2) Check the box "apply changes to all devices" 3) Set the desired ramp rate and on level 4) Click on the first device under the scene 5) Click "copy scene attributes. . ." . . . repeat steps 4 and 5 over as many times as necessary for all additional switches. Realize that when you build bigger fancier scenes, you will likely have different devices responding different ways and not all devices will be controllers. This is the cool part of all this. The virtual 3-way you are creating here is kind of boring and may seem a little strange that you need to do these things to get a simple 3 way to work. But, once you start making fancier scenes, you will understand why it is this way.

You have a curious anecdote, but no, that isn't how it works. Insteon commands are not routed, all commands go out on the power lines and are received by any switch in range. If the hop count has not reached its limit, the switch repeats the command. The repeat is timed to coincide with other repeats from other switches by counting cycles on the 60 hz wave. If the command includes instructions addressed to that switch, the switch executes. Otherwise, it is just a repeater. Personally, I have quite a few switches in my house where 2, 3, or even 4 Insteon switches have the hots and neutrals bundled into a single wire nut.

The answer to this is how good a job did you do programming your regular thermostat! Knowing the time off, stage 1, and stage 2 can be helpful in sizing your system. After a years worth of data you will have a reasonable idea if your system is over sized and if so you can opt for a smaller unit whenever you might be in the market for a replacement. Of course you don't need a Nest to know if your system is undersized

Good idea on the parallel wired old fashioned thermostat. Now you just have to worry about the furnace breaking. My suspicion is that the furnace itself is the weakest link. My parents summer home (in northern MI) furnace fan broke last week and if not for their weekly guy doing a home check (who found the house at 34 degrees), bad things could have happened. Somehow their security system never sent the freeze alert it was supposed to. I have the infinity system and unfortunately there isn't a whole lot you can do with them. They use a proprietary comm with the thermostat (RS 485?). You can re-wire it for a typical thermostat, however you lose out on lots of features that help the system run more efficiently and also keeps track of the operating parameters and notifies you of anything out of range.

If ISY hung (which pretty much never happens), wouldn't the thermostat just continue at whatever temp it was before ISY hung?

Thank you Michel for the kind words. I am afraid this topic got a little side tracked from the OP and to some extent I am to blame. But, to the OP's point. You've made it this far. If you hire someone to do your programming, I truly think you will fail to realize the potential of the system. . . by lots. Perhaps some tutoring would be helpful, but I believe you will be best served to do your own programming. The system really works its best when you understand what it can do and then make it fit your personal habits.

The wiring was my first thought, but seems to be OK by virtue of report that both switches never lose their LED's. I believe the OP is an electrician from another post he put up, so I suspect that he understood the wiring diagram and knew what is what. So, I would re-iterate that the quickest and simplest thing to do at this point is delete the switches from ISY, factory reset them, re-add them to ISY, then rebuild the scene with both as controllers. This will rule out any half links with less work than doing a links table analysis.

Below is turning switch 1 on (19.DB.4A). There is no indication that your switch 2 turned on. You should see a ‘ST 255’ for the other switch indicating it turned on 100% (255 is full on). You see a DON for switch 1 indicating a ‘device on’ command was sent (you pushed the button) received by ISY, and a ST 255 message sent by switch 1 indicating that it had gone to full brightness status (255). But no ST 255 from switch 2 which would indicate that it didn’t turn on. The load is switch 1, so no surprise the light turned on. Did the led’s on switch 2 go up? I presume not since there is no indication of that here. Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.DB.4A 00.00.01 CB 11 00 LTONRR (00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [standard-Group][19.DB.4A-->Group=1] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [ 19 DB 4A 1] DON 0 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [ 19 DB 4A 1] ST 255 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.DB.4A 11.00.01 CB 06 00 (00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:30 PM : [standard-Group][19.DB.4A-->11.00.01] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Below is you turning off the switch 2 (19.D4.80). Similarly, there is no indication switch 1 did anything. But you seem to indicate that the actual light did shut off, so switch 1 did actually shut off? Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:35 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.D4.80 00.00.01 CB 13 00 LTOFFRR(00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:35 PM : [standard-Group][19.D4.80-->Group=1] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:35 PM : [ 19 D4 80 1] DOF 0 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:35 PM : [ 19 D4 80 1] ST 0 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:36 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.D4.80 13.01.01 CB 06 00 (00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:36 PM : [standard-Group][19.D4.80-->13.01.01] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 And finally here is you turning switch 2 back on. Again, no indication that switch 1 did anything, but you say the led's on the switch did go up? or do you mean the leds on switch 2 went up? Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.D4.80 00.00.01 CB 11 00 LTONRR (00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [standard-Group][19.D4.80-->Group=1] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [ 19 D4 80 1] DON 0 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [ 19 D4 80 1] ST 255 Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 19.D4.80 11.01.01 CB 06 00 (00) Thu 01/03/2013 10:43:43 PM : [standard-Group][19.D4.80-->11.01.01] Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 It would appear both switches are communicating fine with ISY and only using 1 hop each on their own. Perhaps LeeG could enlighten more? Myself, I would start with the simple task of removing both switches from ISY, factory resetting them, adding them back to ISY, then recreate the scene. EDIT: It looked like Lee did respond as I typed. Same conclusion. But I can't explain the fact that jef000 seems to be indicating the light did switch off when he pushed switch 2 even though the load is on switch 1 and there is no indication switch 1 did anything.

Nearly all of these things can be done using a "wait" command. You might need multiple programs depending on the details. I have illustrated this below separating all the different situations into individual programs, but many times they can be merged into a single program. The root timer program would be this: I have named it program 'x' If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Wait 300 minutes Set 'whatever you want' Off Run Program 'x' Else path Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To expire the timer If - Put the condition here for expiring timer Then Run Program 'x' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To start (or restart) timer If - Put the condition here for starting (or restarting) timer Then Run Program 'x' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To do something if the timer is active If Whatever you want to cause ISY to check if timer is running And Program 'x' is True Then - Whatever you want to happen if timer active Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To do something if the timer is inactive If Whatever you want to cause ISY to check if timer is running And Program 'x' is False Then - Whatever you want to happen if timer inactive Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') As far as I know, you can't compare the current location of a wait to anything else. Like if the wait had more than 60 minutes left versus less than 60 minutes. Many of the situations I listed above would not require multiple programs, but the multiple program best illustrates how you could make it do anything you want.

To copy/paste, simply right click on the name of the program in the left hand pane on the "program/details" page and scroll down to the last item which is "copy to clipboard". Then paste into forum.

No, I'm not familiar with Honeywell so it wouldn't be of much use.

Since it is all on the nest website, what about software that logs into the website, parses it out (I assume once logged in it puts up a summary page with all the relevant data like actual temp and set temp), then posts to isy variables using REST?

what alarm do you have?

If your alarm has programmable outputs, you can use them to signal an IO linc (probably would need an intervening relay) when the motion detector triggers. You also could have your motion detector control a double pole relay with one pole going to your alarm and the other going to an IO linc. But as mentioned, definitely no emails to ISY. Maybe with some fancy programming you could get a PC to receive your email and then post a REST command to ISY that turns the light on.

Do you have any troubles controlling the two switches independently from the ISY admin console? By independently, I mean when you select the switch itself, not the scene from the directory tree in the left hand pane of the main page of ISY. How about if you select the scene? Do both switches turn on/off when you click on the scene in the left pane and then click the on/off at the bottom of the right pane? If you turn on "event viewer" from the "tools/diagnostic" menu and set to level 3, it will show all the communications. You can copy that to the forum. LeeG is quite adept and interpreting those.

You may just be having communication issues. Are these your first two switches? Do you have other switches that are working? What type of light are the switches controlling?

Is switch 2 the load? Do the LED's on the switch go up when you push it on? If switch 2 is the load (the one the actual light is connected to) and the "applied local" on level is 0 or something really low, this can happen. So be sure to check the "applied local" on level for that switch. The applied local setting can be found under the scene when you click on switch 2 under the scene on the tree in the left pane, or it is what you see when you click on the individual device. If this doesn't answer your problem, try deleting the scene and re-build it from scratch. If that doesn't work, try removing the devices from ISY completely and re-add them, then rebuild the scene.

I was thinking perhaps your wiring was wrong, but that sounds not to be the case. I'm not sure how you could have crossed linked the 2 switches and accidentally changed the on level to zero, but as Lee suggested, that needs to be checked. If both switches turn the light on from the off position, but once there, only one switch turns the light off once on, I can't think of any other possibilities. From ISY "main" page, find the scene on the left side tree. Click on it. You should see the 2 switches "on level" and "ramp rate" listed in the right pane at the bottom of the screen (they are sliders). Be certain that both switches list the "on level" to be correct (this is your choice, but for the purpose of figuring this out, I would set them to 100%). Also, click directly on each of the 2 switches over in the tree on the left. You should see "applied locally" over in the right side pane next to that switch. Make sure it is also 100%. Do that for both switches in the scene. The default is for all of those things to be 100%. So somehow you would have needed to accidentally change that for them to be different, but certainly possible for someone just learning this stuff.

When you turn off the switch that only turns the light off, does the other switch go completely dead? In other words, do the LED lights on the switch shut off?

I agree with oberkc. This would be better as a scene that involves no programs. By doing it this way you are giving work to ISY where none is necessary and you are adding three extra sets of simultaneous Insteon PLC commands that may clash and cause failures to communicate. Lastly, as a scene, the buttons will all respond much quicker. I am going to assume that you are not using the 3 kpl buttons for any other purpose aside from what I see here, (as a way to know the status of 'kitchen_oh') First off, is the intent to have those 3 kpl buttons control 'kitchen_oh' or just track it? - If control it, then delete those 3 scenes (Media_Keypad_D, Garage_Keypad_D, Frontdoor_Keypad_D) and create a new scene. Add the 3 kpl buttons and 'kitchen_oh' switch to that scene, all as controllers. (NOTE: I am assuming 'kitchen_oh' is not already in a scene) In this way, all 3 kpl buttons and 'kitchen_oh' will all turn on/off together regardless of which of the 4 you use to turn the light on/off. - If the intent is only to follow the status of 'kithcen_oh' with the 3 kpl's, then put the 3 KPL buttons in to that same scene as responders only and 'kitchen_oh' as the only controller. Of course if you actually push any of those 3 kpl buttons, the KPL button itself will toggle it's backlight, but nothing else will happen (such that it is now out of sync).

Really we need more details on what you are doing. I assume the honeywell keyfob is connected to the Elk as an Elk supported keyfob. I don't believe that ISY can see keyfobs connected to Elk directly (like a zone or output), but I am not sure since I don't have this type of keyfob on my elk. I also assume you are using more things than just the keyfob to turn that scene on/off, which is how it gets out of sync. The simplest way to solve this problem is to have a device that tracts the last use of that scene. For example, pick a switch that is in that scene that best represents the current status of that scene. In Elk, set an output to indicate that the keyfob has been pushed. Elk program Whenever keyfob is pushed Then Set output x on for 1 second ISY programs If status of (switch you are using as the indicator of scene status) is not off Then set integer variable scene tracker to 1 Else set integer variable scene tracker to 0 If Elk output x turns on and variable scene tracker is 1 Then set scene off Else set scene on The key to modifying this setup is to the program that sets the variable to 1 or 0. You would alter your if section so as to best represent whether the scene is "on" or "off".

Personally I like my program using the variable best and these are the reasons (you may disagree). 1) It keeps the logic in one program, only separating the time frame apart from the main logic. 2) It avoids disabled programs. I don't like disabled programs because sometimes you want to hit the "disable all" button to run scene tests. When done with that I like to hit "enable all". The more random disabled programs you have, the more you have to annotate and then re-disable after doing the "enable all". When you have as many programs as i do, that gets arduous and sometimes I miss some and then weird stuff happens. 3) It accomplished (I think) exactly what the original poster wanted. However, I think oberkc's program and vyrolan's second program are darn near as good.

I agree with Lee in that you should set it to non-toggle off mode. But I would add a few other suggestions. 1) Do as Lee said, set the 3 KPL buttons as non-toggle off 2) Remove your 3 kpls from any scenes they are currently "controllers" of 3) add your 3 kpl buttons to the scene "every light off" as controllers. 4) Create scene for your 3 KPL's where they are just responders (I will call this scene kpl off scene) 5) Delete the program you currently have 6) Create a program that goes as follows If status device 1 is not off status device 2 is not off status device 3 is not off etc etc Then set scene 'kpl off" on You will need to put every single switch you have in your "every light off" scene into this program in the "status device 1,2,3,etc is not off" section, or at least every one that carries a load. Here is my program. I only have one kpl, but you can have multiple. If Status 'Back Hall / Back Hall Gar Dr-Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Breakfast Room / Breakfast Rm - Chand L' is not Off Or Status 'Dining Room / Dining Rm @ Fam-Chand L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Rm-Pat lts L' is not Off Or Status 'Family Room / Family Room-Ceiling L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer-Portico Can L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer @ Music-Barrel Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Foyer / Foyer-Coach L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Garage-Floures L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Breez L' is not Off Or Status 'Garage / Third Garage-Coach L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen Intercom-Island L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen Intercom-Puck L' is not Off Or Status 'Kitchen / Kitchen-Over Sink L' is not Off Or Status 'Living Room / Living Rm-Couch Lamps L' is not Off Or Status 'Living Room / Living Rm-Wine Rm L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs Arch-Chandalier L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs by Gst-Hall L' is not Off Or Status 'Upstairs Hall / Upstairs-Arches L' is not Off Then Set Scene 'Master Keypad B' On Else Set Scene 'Master Keypad B' Off Now, this will allow all 3 kpls when pushed to turn off all the lights in the scene "every light off" when pushed It will also light up the 3 buttons any time any of the lights is on. In my personal example, I did not put all of the devices in the scene. I specifically left off a number of devices, such as those in other bedrooms/bathrooms as the intent for me was to shut off the lights in the house at bedtime except those where other people may still be using them.