sanders2222

You're GENIUS! (hope you don't mind being called that!) That was the piece of the puzzle I was missing. I am not too sure how to set "USERS" so I'm using same Gmail account for both houses in the portal. Updating the MAC address to the house I am in allowed Alexa to discover the devices. WALA. Thank you for walking me through this connectivity issue. PROBLEM SOLVED! Jim

Here it is:

This may be my problem. I do not recall ever being asked to login to my ISY Portal account. But from my screen shots, it appears I'm linked to something.

That is just what I am doing. In the portal I set up my Beaver Lake Home ISY Mac address. Then under tools I selected Alexa under the Connectivity option. There I added a few scenes and devices for testing. I also added my Echo Dot to the Beaver Lake WiFi and linked to my Amazon Prime account. When I ask to Alexa to discover devices, she gives me a muffled response she can't find any. I just does not work! Edit: One surprise is under tools there is a "ISY Web Access" option. WOW! Now this provides me an option to access the ISY at either home without need to set up port forwarding and IP domain name to do that. Plus when I had the ISY plugged into a second router, I was not successful passing the port through 2 routers. Just one log in and password required for both ISY's. Now that's cool!

V5: I'm chicken. Some threads indicate there are all sorts of complications upgrading. That said, the GH house is v5 (see image). If this is my issue, I may need to make the leap! Yes. All devices, scenes & programs appear in the tabbed pull down lists. So you suggest opening a separate ISY Portal account for each home instead of using the option in the portal to "add homes"? Seems people at U-D set up the portal to reduce need for multiple accounts. I think I'd pull a ticket before doing that. In my portal account, I set up a 2nd house (Beaver Lake) with Connectivity pointed to Alexa. There I only set up a few devices with 'spokens' for testing. However, Alexa fails to discover anything when asked, even though, using my phone app, the skill has been enabled.

Thanks Larry for you suggestions. When I ask Alexa to 'Discover' she comes back 'No devices found'. I did a reset, but will see if I can go through the steps again and see if that helps. I hope my problems are not because my ISY is running on v.4.7.3 or that I have devices from two separate households saved in my ISY Portal.

Using my Samsung Galaxy s7 Edge running on System Update 29 (?) Hopefully, that is equivalent to Android 5. You don't connect devices to ISY Portal. You connect the Alexa app to the UDI v2 skill that has a link to your ISY Portal account. It's not clear to me how Alexa links to the ISY Portal. In windows my Alexa setting shows "UDI Optimized for Smart home V3" (listed as enabled and linked account ????). But when I click on the link, the next UDI window gives me an Enabled button. Clicking on it apparently does nothing (see Image). I assume V3 as something to do with the 3rd Generation Echo Dot. This account security is getting stupid. When they ask for the password they don't specify Amazon account, Alexa account, ISY Portal account, ISY device account, router account, WiFi account, or Admin Console account. Agreed. Stupid! It appears my install doesn't get this far despite being able to log into my ISY Portal, Amazon, Alexa, router WiFi & Admin Console accounts.

I have years of successful experience setting up two houses, ELK & DSC security systems, 100s of Insteon devices AND GOOGLE HOME, I can not figure out this Alexa thing. I even read a thread on setting one up. NADA! I can not tell what account Alexa is linked to even though it is connected to my WiFi. so much for "plug-n-play" AND I do not see how I can manually link the Echo Dot (3rd gen) to my ISY Portal account, which has to be why ALEXA seems to do very little! GH set up seems more logical & straight forward to me! AND on top of that, if Alexa's volume is turned down to conversation level, she seems to have a mouth full of cotton. YUK!

Agreed. And like larryllix I'll name the device type as follows:. A scene is a "Scene" (and in the Spokens I include the word light or lighting) A 3-way switch is a "Switch" (Spokens is load or slave, the scene would have the word light) An outlet an "Outlet" (Spokens is outlet*). Any other switch that controls a light a "Light" (Spokens do not repeat the word Light) * Additional spokens like "tree lights" are added if outlet is not controlled by a scene. This seems to work pretty good. I have under counter cabinet lights that are controlled by a switch on one side, and an outlet on the other. But spokens "cabinet lights" or "counter lighting" are only found in my scene that controls both.

Man, can I relate to this!

I just asked GH to open the pod bay doors. It responded "I can't do that. But there's a key under the flower pot next to the air lock and you can open it yourself!"?

For more recent information on this problem, see Could not update settings. Please check your connections.

Compared to Alexa, it appears we GH users are a 'select' group! But I'm adding this post to see if any other GH users are or have experienced this error message. For me, I was only able to add 19-23 devices in my ISY Portal account before the uplink to my GH failed. Instead of any devices being uploaded, all I received was an error message (see title). I had some tech help from U-D and a couple of Google Home forum chat sessions. What I concluded from these communications is this may be a GH problem. I was told GH designers are aware of this issue and are working on a fix. I hope this fix comes soon because I think any user would find this unacceptable. Aside from that, I can tell a difference in the AI between GH & Alexa. GH wins! But they need to fix this! Just sayin... UPDATE: I don't think this may be related to the "cause" for the connection errors I am experiencing, but I am using a DSL provider (CenturyLink). I wonder if this issue effects cable/cellar users as well? A second possible issue may be the use of scenes (which should be an option). However, I just read in another post that GH/ISY Portal do not handle scenes the way I they should. Therefore, it may be best NOT to unplink scenes.

Not knowing what I was doing setting up GH, I initially set up my Hotmail account for my ISY Portal. But then it's Google and after discovering I was using a shared mailbox, this would not work. So I created Gmail accounts for me & my wife (GH needs separate accounts for family members). I then put my ISY Portal to my Gmail account. I then had multiple accounts linked to GH and was able to remove my Hotmail account. 1st Problem: Not all devices are recognized by the "voice" even though I can see them on the mobile app and they work just fine from there. So I tried to remove the ISY from Hotmail only to discover the ISY was removed from my Gmail too. Yikes! I then went back to my portal with Gmail and reinstated all my devices. Logging back into my Hotmail portal I see the devices have been added back there as well. I do not see anyway to delete an ISY Portal email account. 2nd Problem: But I would like to remove my Hotmail ISY Portal account or at least UNLINK that account from my Gmail account. How can I do this? UPDATE: 1st Problem Solved. I noticed on GH (tablet) that while all devices were listed, I could not turn them on or off on my tablet. So I accessed my Gmail ISY Portal, deleted those "broken" devices then added them back. On my tablet, I un-linked the device set-up, then re-linked it. WAH LA! UPDATE 2: Opened U-D Ticket and tech helped delete my Hotmail ISY Portal account (2nd Problem Solved).

Thanks Ben for that clarification & suggestion on the EnvisaLink card and RPi. I see the newer RPi can connect WiFi so that may be an option to connect to my ISY. My DSC is centrally located in our home which was built in the late 90's. I assume it only has daisy-chain "phone" wiring from room to room (common practice in those days). No home runs. While running an ethernet cable up my outside wall, across the attic to the alarm box is possible, I'm looking for an "Easy Button" .

Has anyone had success using voice to print from Google Home to an Epson X810 (or any Epson) printer? Amazon's Alexa seems to have that skill. But a Google search only provided help with a HP App (via WiFI). That's not helping me much.

Got that. I assume I also need an Envisalink EVL-4 IP Interface Module to connect the alarm to the Raspberry Pi. Correct?

First of all, thanks for your straight up explanation on how to get Google Home set up. Although I was momentarily stuck on setting up the ISP Portal account, a Google search got me through that. Your step by step tutorial worked for me! From your information, I think nodeservers are also something I need to learn to apply. I want to connect my DSC security system which I understand needs a raspberry pi & Polyglot nodeserver (?). As for Holiday calendar, I've used the ISY 'Calendar' set of programs and variables that has worked for years. I have a variable $iHoliday that is set to 1 on Holidays (otherwise value is 0). Sometimes the value is 1 on the day before and after.ve a variable $iHoliday = 1 on Holidays, otherwise the value is 0. Sometimes I include the day before (Christmas & New Year's eve) and day after (Thanksgiving).

Things change faster than I can keep up! I have an ISY944iR monitoring & controlling various Insteon devices. How do I get Google Home controlling my ISY and visa versa? (In plain English please) Do I need an Add-on? If I do, which one? And can someone tell me what a node server is? (tried a search for these answers but no luck)

Sorry larryllix, the T-1800 is the old t-stat (as it was wired). The diagram I added was the new 2441TH. Thank you apostolakisl for confirming where I need to connect the red wire on the new t-stat. I've completed connections and all seems to function as a thermostat. However, now I have a new problem and I am unable to link it to the ISY. I close this thread and start a new one for that problem.

I'm replacing an older Insteon t-stat with recently purchased 2441TH. But I seem to have wires with no where to go. What I get is (as labeled on old t-stat): C (Blue) W1 (White) W2 (Black) Y1 (Yellow) G (Green) But what do I do with the R (red) wire? Does it tie to the 24RH or Y2 on the new t-stat? (The old t-stat does not have a Y2 or 24RH on it's screw terminals but it has a R)

I set up some Insteon controllers (Dimmer 2477D) in a vacation home and recently added under cabinet counter lighting. You know, the kind that has LED light bars powered by a low voltage wall wart and controlled with a small remote. To get the power for the lighting strips, I added a 2477D switch on one side of the kitchen and ran a wire up to a duplex outlet on top of the cabinets (see photo). On the other side of the kitchen I just added an Insteon outletlink (2472D) on the top of those cabinets. Well, the switched side worked fine with these observations with the dimmer switch at any on position: 2 wire feed from Wall wart transformer had to be connected in one direction only or LED's did not light (Low DC voltage?). LED remote could turn LED's on or off, and even allowed 2 dimmed settings (e.g. 20 & 50 %) The 2477D had no effect on diming the LEDs but could turn them on & off (provided remote had them on) OK, in retrospect I should've used an ON/OFF switch, but hey, this is working! With the switch on AND the outlet on, the remote controlled lighting on both sides of the kitchen. That stated sometimes only one side lite up and you had to push the remote button off/on several times until they were again synced. The problem I do not understand involves setting up the Insteon devices to control the lighting. After linking the outlet to the switch, I found I could turn on the switch and both sides would light up. Only for a second though as the 2472D outlet would turn off. I would have to manually turn the outletlink back on for that side. Weird huh? I recently added and ISY controller and confirmed devices were linked correctly. Then I set up a WAF workaround so when you press the dimmer, this program runs: Cabinet Lights On - [ID 0002][Parent 0001] If Control 'Kit Cabinet 31.4F.F6.1' is switched On And Control 'Kit Cabinet 31.4F.F6.1' is not switched Off Then Repeat 2 times Wait 2 seconds Set 'Kit Outlet 24.10.02.1' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now the lights can be controlled by the wall switch and although the lighting on the other side goes off, it comes back on after a few seconds and STAYS on. I remember someone responding to an earlier post explaining how LEDs liked square waves and dimmer switches produced sine waves (my headache is returning). And then there’s the low voltage thing. OMG! Maybe someone has a better explanation of what may be happing and if there’s a better fix.

I suppose this query should be posted under Network Resources topic. But not sure how to move the discussion. At any rate, I'm not sure I can be of much help. I had to connect my older Russound CAA66 to the network using an Elk IP232 Ethernet to serial adapter which unfortunately, stopped working for me last year. Instead of a blinking green LED, the adapter's indicator blinks yellow and none of the commands that had been working, do anything anymore. My 1st assumption was the IP232 has failed, but I would think that unlikely, I should run a temporary Ethernet cable to rule out a bad cable or patch panel connection. But that will have to wait until I return home from an extended vacation. I do remember it was nice to add music in the morning and turn things off automatically or remotely with a smart phone when it was working. Apple TV would make a good streaming device, I am not familiar with Apple Expresses. One of my main input sources was my DirecTV device when no one was watching TV. I programed my TV remote to change to a music channel when the TV was turned off. If the TV was on, then I'd want a different source. I wish my Russound had blu-tooth (sigh). Then I could listen to Martini in the Morning anytime! LOL

Thanks Brian. That was it. Interesting problem I've never experienced and of course I was over a thousand miles away. However,, my daughter was able to open up the house and unplug the Insteon adapter then plug it back in. The information was instantly restored to the ISY. ISSUE RESOLVED!

Here's an update. An IN-House check by a friend, removed Insteon plug in from t-stat, waited half a minute & plugged it back in. Most recent remote login shows communication between ISY and t-stat was restored. So the question now is why, after 7 years, do I even have to do this?