sanders2222

I upgraded from 3.1.14 and at least the status of my Kitchen KPL is reporting correctly with the new version. With the last version, I seemed to be getting a lot of incorrect status on various devices even after a query on the device. I didn't see post from anyone else experiencing this problem though. So I hope that my problem was related to the 'responder links' issue and will disappear with this update. Although I suspect the statuses all report correctly now because my ISY rebooted with the upgrade. We'll see. Fingers crossed and holding my breath, Jim

Thanks for pointing this out Brian. Your post made me look at my wall warts with more scrutiny and they either show 9VDC, or 5V/12V (followed by a solid horizontal line on top of a dashed line). I believe that symbol is for direct current. At any rate, I think I was looking at the 120VAC (input) and only saw "12VAC". Sorry for my confusion.

Just one more idiot question, the warts I have say 12VAC 1.5A or 12VAC 500mA. Does that mean the output is 12 volts alternating current? In other words, an ATX or other power supply that produces 12VDC (direct current) would not work? Also, isn't the amperage shown the maximum draw on the wart (not necessarily the actual draw for the unit)? But to be safe, I would need to add up the amps for those warts I can eliminate and make sure whatever PS I substitute allows at least equal to that?

Try clicking on another variable, then the one you want to change. It seems the Save button starts out disabled when I first enter a screne, but clicking on a few variables seems to set mine off so I can save changes.

Thanks for the feedback guys. That is quite a range, I noticed one post by Michel suggesting 12V and apostolakisl stated he runs his off 5V. Is there an advantage/disadvantage to lower/higher voltages? I would like more detail of the ATX setup. Something like that could certainly clean things up for my 5V and 12V needs. Assuming I will still need my ELK M1 wart (16.5V), if I plug this wart in my closet, what gauge wire would I need to run to the ELK panel (roughly 10 feet)? Would stranded be better than solid?

I am installing an ELK M1 Gold and decided now is the time to address my power supply issues. It appears the panel, M1EXP and IP-232 add 3 new wall-warts. I also want to replace my aging 2412s with one of the new fangled dual band things. That requires another wall-wart for the ISY. I've searched this forum and Smarthome site and cannot seem to find anywhere what the ISY power supply requirement is. UGH! Any one out there have good a solution? Here is my particular dilemma, varying voltage requirements: Location Item Power Supply Voltage Amps Security ELK M1 Gold Xformer 16.5VAC 0.48 Security ELK M1XEP Xformer 12VAC 1.5 Closet ISY-99IR ???? Closet Router Xformer 12VAC 0.5 Closet IP Switch Xformer 5VDC 2.8 Closet UR RF Receiver Xformer 9V 0.3 Media ELK IP232 Xformer 12VAC 1.5 Media UR RF Receiver Xformer 9V Media Exhaust Fans Xformer ??? I have to crawl back into my media cabinet and pull the transformer that runs my fans, but I seem to recall it was 12 volts also. I can also run wires between the 3 locations, so my first choice would be one unit, feeding the needs of all 3 locations.

Anybody seen this under 3.1.13? I tried to query a device and this message popped up. I often put my laptop in hibernation after I use it by closing the lid. Later, I pick it up, log on and start using it where I left off. It seems the Admin Console is less stable (if that's the right word) under the most recent release. What I find is some things work normally, but some things, like state updates and Queries, may not work at all or their state is out-of-sync. Usually, closing the console and restarting it clears things up. But I don't recall having this issue so much with earlier releases.

It's been awhile since I worked with mine, but it seemed I picked codes for 8 buttons (one page) on my remote. Then using the learn mode feature on the ISY, I named the buttons to match the button presses on the remote. Not sure this is much help. I am in need of updating my choices on the remote, so may be digging in again sometime soon.

I have a MX-850 but recently upgraded to the MX-950. I also paid the Geek squad to program my new one, but have had some success modifying programs in both of them. I also had to resort to adding in Phillips IR codes manually for most buttons as the U-D file I download somehow became corrupted. After I tried making program modifications (to the Geek Squads program) I found the original codes would no longer work.

I use the IR version which works for my home theater remote. It gives me another option to set room lighting scenes with one remote in my hand (I don't have to dig out my PC or iphone). My understanding is the Network Module is needed in order to provide remote control (from the ISY) to my whole house audio distribution system. I nice feature indeed. Don't have anything to offer on Android platform as I don't have any. Lastly, I assume you are referring to a Venstar T-1800 thermostat. Just make sure you have the latest adapter (v 2.2 or higher).

The only time I experienced an ISY lockup seemed associated with my t-stat adapter. But, unlike yours, my error log indicated the last entry was a mode change in the t-stat. Since then, I've installed a new v2.2r adapter so hopefully, issues with the t-stat are a thing of the past.

I believe these options have always been in the 3.1.x beta firmware. The Program modes are those settings for heat/cool/auto that are stored in the t-stat. From the pull down list you can turn control over from your ISY (Auto) to the settings in the t-stat (Program Auto). You should also see the setpoint fields are disabled on the console when you set things to Program Auto. Initially, I used this feature but found control with the ISY either more stable or reliable (even with the older version adapter). Now I run the t-stat settings with my ISY 100% of the time. I just installed a refurbished Insteon adapter so hopefully, the temperature spikes and mode changes I experienced (for no know reason) are a thing of the past. So far, so good.

Here is one more option to 2. I set up an MX-950 remote the uses RF to control (anywhere in or around the house). I can use to control selected scenes and devices and did not run into any conflicts between the lighting codes and those used for my home theatre system.

As TJF1960 indicates, this program executes true at 5 pm and false at 8 pm. If From 5:00:00PM To 8:00:00PM (same day) Then Set 'Outdoors / Out Entry 12.48.1E.1' On Send X-10 'A1/On (3)' Else Set 'Outdoors / Out Entry 12.48.1E.1' Off Send X-10 'A1/Off (11)' If light is turned off another way after 5 pm, it will stay off. If light was turned on after 8 pm, it would stay on until 8 pm next day (unless turned off another way). To address the time between 8 pm and 5 pm (next day) the following would turn the light off if it was turned on after 8 pm. If From 8:00:00PM To 5:00:00PM (next day) And Status 'Outdoors / Out Entry 12.48.1E.1' is On Then Set 'Outdoors / Out Entry 12.48.1E.1' Off Send X-10 'A1/Off (11)' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') You do not need the X-10 module to send an X-10 command.

For giggles I pulled up a picture of my thermostat heat set point between July 15th and the present. I was surprised to see spikes up to 255 degrees and down to 16 degrees (see image below). What's with that? I only control the t-stat from the ISY but my programs are pretty simple. Plus, for the most part, seem to be operating my HVAC correctly. I did experience recent behavior where my t-stat was turning itself off and my ISY locked up this month. I also called Smarthome and because my t-stat dongle was v2.0 and the ISY locked up, they are going to send me a upgraded plug-in. So my hope is these spikes could be related to the old plug-in going/gone bad.

For a little different approach, I upgraded to 3.1.12 and added the Elk Module. My ELK M1 is still in the shipping packaging and hasn't been hooked up. All seems to to be working correctly so having the horses before the cart seems to have worked! Good work U-D as it appears you've thought of everything (again). Now it's time for me to open my package and replace my 30 year old security system with the ELK.

Why now? Came home after a late flight and my house was cold and dark. I discovered my ISY locked up during the day. I had an alarm set to trigger the home heating plus add outdoor lighting to welcome us home. But the system failed miserably this trip. My lights wouldn't come on even when my garage door opened. I checked my ISY, could not log onto the Admin Console and only the one green led was on. Does anyone know what this means? Do error logs give any hint on what may have happened? Hopefully, it's not related to this firmware and maybe a power hiccup or something else. I unplugged the ISY for 10 seconds then powered back up. Still, only one green led stayed on but things are working normal now. I can also log into the ISY. The experience has been just another (one) Home Automation disappointment.

Are you running IR programs? If so, here is what Michel explained it to me: Hope this helps.

My IR scenes were not working at all with the last beta update either. But then I discovered my IR emitter had fallen off my ISY. I pasted it back on and the scenes are working again, sort of. I seem to have to repeat the remote button press to make a scene fire. Whereas before, there never seemed to be this stubbornness with my system as others are reporting.My error log does repeat the "Queue Full' phrase during the time I tried using my remote.

WOW. I just updated to 3.1.10 and the thermostat fan and heat/cool status come right up, as advertised! Good work U-D team.

Don't know if this is a bug, but it seems serious enough to me. I tried to log onto my admin console from a remote location using a public library PC. Because the Java add-on was not available (I did not have permissions to add it), I found I logged onto something that looked a little like the Orchestrator Dashboard application available from this site. While the main menu list provided links to devices, scenes, weather module and variables, I could not find a log-out option anywhere on the scene. It's my understanding closing the window would not necessarily log me out. So whatever application creates that screen when Java is not installed, should be modified to include a logout option. If closing that window is the same as logging out, I still think it needs a logout link.

Thanks LeeG. You saved my bacon again. I had this set up once but after I had to replace the KPL, I could not recall how I did it the first time. Highlighting the controller device under the scene revealed the attributes for all devices, and they were full on with no delay. I used the 'Copy Scene Attributes' button in the main window and that set all on levels and ramp rates to the prescribed settings I wanted. WAF x 10!

I'll piggyback my Scene problem on Dodger's post. I have a KeypadLinc 2486DWH6 where I set up a simple 'Party' scene: linking all the lights in the house I want to turn On/Off with a button. When the button is pushed on, I also want the lights at prescribed on levels. Unfortunately, when you push the button on, lights come on to 100% brightness, not at the dimmed level. I used an ISY-99IR to manage the scene, and based on my understanding, the devices listed under the scene are set-up correctly with different 'on levels'. For some reason, these on level settings do not appear to be writing to the devices or are ignored. I read another post on this forum that indicates the button controls the on level of all linked devices. Hmmmm. It's important I fix this as my WAF is near an all time low. Anyone have ideas what I need to do?

Upgrade was smooth, I deleted a pair of new 2476D v.00 switches and re-linked them. This time the ISY was able to discover them, v.40 now appears on the device description.

I just want to say the support Michel & staff @ U-D is top shelf! Thanks for the work you are putting into your products. I don't know that I bumped into another issue in 3.1.6 but linking 2 new Insteon switches (weekend sale at SmartHome) had a minor issue. When I used the auto Start Linking option, the 2 switches were discovered but could not be identified. Instead of getting a Swtichlinc dimmer icon (2476D), both devices were given the generic 'lightbulb' icon and v.00. I put them in the wall (behind a wall plate) and do not recall what the firmware version is, but I could look for it if that information is needed. I was able to link one switch manually, selecting 2476D as the type, but it was also identified as v.00. The other one seemed to link, but the 1011 icon persisted. After a couple of attempts, I eventually was able to write the updates to the device and the proper icon shows now. The device is working and reporting correctly but is also identified as v.00. If this above issue is 'normal', then disregard my findings. But this seems odd & thought perhaps SmartHome has come out with another version of this switch not in your database. EDIT: There were no error messages with the auto link option. But I had some trouble writing to one of the devices when I manually added them from the pull down list.