Guy Lavoie

https://wiki.universal-devices.com/ISY_Developers:API:REST_Interface There are a few things that need consideration when setting this up, one of which is user authentication. This recent thread discusses it: It's the same command format for scenes or devices. Just the device ID format is different; use the scene id instead.

You would probably do best with a physical controller device (eg. a palmpad if you're using X10) that then triggers scenes. If you really want a phone app, then you'd need to find an app that allows you to configure buttons that could send http GET commands, and use REST interface commands to trigger scenes in your eisy. Alexa voice control is also a user friendly way of triggering commands.

Well you can't really have two physical switches controlling the same light (unless you wired two relay switches in parallel or something...). Sounds like you have one switch, the one that works, actually controlling the light. The second one would probably be set up as a virtual 3 way switch, controlling the first one. If that's the case, then it probably doesn't have any load connected to it. Thus turning that switch on or off remotely, such as through the admin console, wouldn't do anything. It won't receive the command and then retransmit it as if it had been manually activated. So that sounds normal.

Well it's not zwave (it communicates by wifi) but the Venstar T7900 Colortouch thermostat can control a humdifier, and also has a cool to dehumidify (with optional reheat) function, so you can do both. It has a plugin for eisy. I have one of these thermostats, though I'm not using it for humidity control functions.

Could you post an example? Screenshot? What device type is this?

Well, just wondering what you have as a test setup and yes, if there is any kind of zwave network that operational. You mention being able to control the switch from the admin console, so I'm deducing that actual communications are working. As for Insteon vs zwave, I'm actually still new to it all. I've only been a UD user since about August, and implemented Insteon switches throughout since that time. I haven't store bought a single new Insteon device; they're all from ebay or marketplace, though a few of them were still new in box. I even bought my eisy as used. I had been using X10 quite reliably for the past 25 years... So my experience has been that Insteon seems very reliable, fast, and versatile. Then again, coming from X10, anything would appear better. As for zwave, I have several zwave door locks. I also bought a half dozen inexpensive zwave appliance modules that are actually for the purpose of creating the mesh network, since the devices I really want to use (the door locks) are battery operated so they don't act as repeaters. I also have a zwave watercop valve. All this installed in the past couple of months so I can't really say much about long term reliability. I do find the zwave reliability somewhat iffy, though my sparse network might be a factor. But it's still a bit odd that it usually works, though sometimes querying a lock will fail to respond. It's as if the network itself isn't consistent.

I've actually done that by starting linking in the admin console, then pressing the button on the device. So both methods probably work.

Is your zwave setup currently just the eisy and that one switch you're trying to configure?

It's like the supermarket. Just when you pretty well have the layout of the whole store figured out and know where to get things, they rearrange the store.

Some aspects of the admin console aren't always intuitive.

What do you mean by "outdoor remotes"? Insteon battery powered mini-remotes? Those usually need to be restored, by relinking.

Well try clicking on them to send your changes after choosing your values. That's how I do it, as indicated in my first post.

What setting(s) are you trying to change? For example if you change the heat setpoint, do you then click on the "Heat Setpoint" button left of the edit field? The fact that those are buttons (and not just labels) isn't always obvious. "Write changes" is usually for parameter or configuration (option) changes, not regular things like setpoints.

I found that Alexa announcements are slow in general (even single ones), up to a minute in some cases.

The eisy isn't considered a "hub" in that sense. You can't just walk into a chain store and buy an eisy as a shrink wrapped product. Chances are that the product will work just fine, since zwave devices are designed around a common chipset.

What device models are they? My garage thermostat example is an insteon 2441TH, and the dimmer is a 2477D insteon switch.

For your first question, did you do a "synchronize" in UD Mobile after adding the new device(s)? From the main screen, click on the three vertical dots at the upper right corner, and click on synchronize.

I just verified on mine (eisy running 5.8.4), and I have access to the other thermostat, and dimming settings.

Good question about the exclamation points. I don't know. Hopefully someone else will come along and tell us. Have you tried the "restore device" on at least one or two of them? What happens?

Yes I've done a downgrade from 5.3.4 to 5.0.16c, and it worked.

Sounds like missing direct links. Did you do any manual linking at some point? That's what the instructions in Insteon device packaging show you. If you did that, and then added them to your ISY/eisy, the linking process will usually allow you to choose to keep existing links, or delete them. If you deleted them (and I think that's the default), then that would explain what you're seeing. Now the thing is this: when you set up a ISY/eisy, it doesn't create direct links between devices like the manual Insteon linking does. It always does it as scenes, in order to include itself as part of the scene, to be able to monitor status and control devices from the admin console or programs. So I suggest that you re-establish those device to device links by creating scenes and adding the devices to the scenes as the appropriate controllers/responders.

Having a spare PLM on hand is always a good idea.

Even better would be to split up the load between two switches. Depending on what you have available, a few lamplincs could be plugged into a power strip. They're only rated for 300 watts though so you'd need 3 or more.

600W would be more of a heat limitation than just amperage through the triac. That's close, but would probably be ok if well ventilated. Just a personal hypothesis... Will you be dimming it? Otherwise a relay switch would be better. Maybe add a box fan to the enclosure?