ISYhbsh01

Hi everyone, I am looking into buying an Android tablet/smartphone. Can anyone tell me if the Java administrative console would work on Android?

Thanks Michel for the clarification.

Even if there is a condition/schedule in the IF statement that's currently false? I had understood that at startup it will run & evaluate the IF statement, and will then run the "then" or "else" depending on if the condition/schedule is met or not. Am I wrong?

3 days ago I got up in the morning sopping wet from sweat and found that my window a/c which is on an appliancelinc was off. I checked my email and sure enough I saw a notification that at about 3 AM there was a brief power outage which caused the appliancelinc to be turned off. The outage probably lasted for only a second since most of my electronic clocks in the house didn’t reset but the damage was done. This was like the last straw that broke the back of the camel. I thought that instead of an appliancelinc I would get an electrician to wire a new switch next to the outlet to control the outlet, and use a switchlinc which does retain its status after a power outage. Then I saw on Smarthome’s website that the outletlinc unlike the appliancelinc does retain its status. I have 1 outletlinc on hand so I replaced the regular outlet with the outletlinc. Unfortunately, after testing it by turning off the circuit breaker it reverted to off contrary to what the Smarthome website says. Oddly enough, I tried to activate the load sensing feature & that didn’t work either.

I just ran into this old post. Is this still true in today's versions, that when the ISY reboots it will run unconditionally the then portion of each run at startup enabled program?

Thanks LeeG, What I need is a program which would return the appliancelinc to it's previous state from before the power outage whether on or off, if that's possbile.

It's 4.2. If they think it might be a safety issue they could have made it possible to let people change the setting themselves like with the load sensing option. Does anyone have some ideas on how we could perhaps do some kind of an ISY program to get around this problem?

I just learned this the hard way... We had here on Friday afternoon, in the about 100 degree heat (not including humidity), a power outage which lasted for almost 24 hours. So I moved in to my parants' house for the day. I have a couple of window a/c's plugged into Appliancelinc's. I always assumed that since the settings are stored in non-volatile memory that once power comes back on they will return to their previous state & the house will be cooled off when I return home. Turns out all of them were off when I returned except for one a/c which was turned on by a scheduling program. In my opinion this is really a shame. Why can't the appliancelinc remember it's previous state? Does anyone have any ideas on how to get around this problem?

Hi Rand, I also thought the same thing after this happened and reviewing the programs, and I actually made this change right after I made this post. Still, I am not sure if and why this should have caused a loop. All it did was to send a duplicate on command when it should already be on and a duplicate off command when it should already be off. On the other hand, the loop did stop when I disabled this program, so it does seem that it had something to do with it though I don’t understand why. So I would still like to see if someone might come up with something that I did wrong other then this to avoid a costly recurrence. Or maybe someone can explain why this should indeed have caused a loop. Perhaps someone would want to take a look at my log file. Thank you.

Hi everybody, I use the “B†button of an 8 button KPL to control my M.B.R. window air conditioner which is plugged into an ApplianceLinc. A few days ago I made a program called 'Test M.B.R. A/C 1 Hour' that when I double tap the KPL “B†button the following happens: The MBR A/C goes on, the KPL button LED blinks 5 times, the A/C works for an hour, the KPL button LED blinks again 5 times, and then the A/C shuts off. Here is the program: If Control 'KPL-1-Main / KPL-1-B' is switched Fast On And Control 'KPL-1-Main / KPL-1-B' is not switched Off Then Set Scene 'A/C M.B.R. Scene' On Repeat 5 times Set Scene 'KPL 1 Scenes / KPL-1-B, Scene' Off Set Scene 'KPL 1 Scenes / KPL-1-B, Scene' On Repeat 1 times Wait 1 hour Repeat 5 times Set Scene 'KPL 1 Scenes / KPL-1-B, Scene' Off Set Scene 'KPL 1 Scenes / KPL-1-B, Scene' On Repeat 1 times Run Program 'Test M.B.R. A/C 1 Hour' (Else Path) Else Set Scene 'A/C M.B.R. Scene' Off Send Notification to 'hbsh01' The ‘A/C M.B.R. Scene’ has the KPL button “KPL-1-B “ as a controller & the appliancelinc “*A/C M.B.R.†as a responder. The 'KPL 1 Scenes / KPL-1-B, Scene' has the KPL button as a responder. I also have another program named “Status A/C M.B.R.†to make sure that the KPL button LED status is in sync with the appliancelinc, so when the appliancelinc is turned on/off thru the web interface or via a program and not thru the KPL button the LED should also be on/off accordingly. Here is the program: If Status '*A/C M.B.R.' is On Then Set Scene 'A/C M.B.R. Scene' On Else Set Scene 'A/C M.B.R. Scene' Off This 1 hour program worked fine for a couple of days. This morning when the A/C was off I asked my 10 year old daughter to double tap fast the B button. I don’t know what exactly she ended up doing. Whether she tapped once & then double tapped, or vice versa, or something else altogether. The next thing I know the air conditioner started cycling on & off rapidly. Nothing I tried helped until I disabled the “Status A/C M.B.R.†program then it stopped. Afterwards I re-enabled the program and double tapped the button again and everything worked nicely like before. Can anybody help me understand what could have gone wrong here? Thanks.

Hi Michel, I will email yoou the log soon. Interestingly, today was the first time since I set the timeout to 10,000 that I missed a notification. It used to happan more often. I ruled out it being a junk email issue as I mentioned earlier that whenever I missed a notification it wasn't even in the 'sent' folder of the sending email address. I don't know about it being a logical issue. Here is a copy of one program: If Status '*A/C M.B.R.' is Off Then Send Notification to 'Email' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') My firmware version is 2.7.15. Thanks for your help.

I did check the junk mail, I even checked the sent mail folder of the email account I am using to send the notifications, it wasn't there. Also whenevr I did not get a notification I had always checked the notification program status. They were always correctly true/false depnding on whether the device was put on or off. Even the last time run was the correct time when the device status changed, but still no notification was sent. Thanks for your help.

In the meantime I changed the timeout in the SMTP settings to the max of 10,000. I will see if that helps.

I looked at the log and I don't see the word 'error' there. I did see a couple of lines where in collunm 2 it says 'null" and in colunm 6 it says '-5012'. Is that what you mean?

I set up programs to be notified by email when the status of my devices changes. I would say that 85% of the time I do get the notification email, but 15% of the time I don’t. I setup a separate program for on status and off status for each device. The programs correctly show as being true or false depending on if the device was shut off or put on, and it will even show the correct time of when the program was last run, but I still didn’t get the notification email. Any ideas?

I will try to temporarily turn off the firewall & see what happens.

It's my own small business office with my own standard windows XP computer & a standard off the shelf Norton Internet Security firewall, nothing fancy or sophisticated here. I don't have an IT department or I might call myself the head of the IT department...

Hi Rand, It happens when I try to connect from my own office computer. If it's the firewall wouldn't it been blocked completely?

Hi, When I am logged in remotely into the administrative console, about every 3-4 minutes or so the screen asking for my credentials pops up. It has my user name & password already filled in, I just need to click "ok". About a minute or two before it pops up the ISY won't accept anymore any changes that I make. Once I see it doesn’t accept any changes I know I have to wait for a minute or two for the credentials screen to pop up. Then after clicking "ok" I lose all the program changes that I didn't manage to save & have to start again. That leaves me with about 1-2 minutes after clicking "ok" to make any changes fast before it happens again. This only happens when I login remotely. When I am logging in from a computer on the local network it's working fine.

Thanks everyone! So it's obvious from what everybody is saying, that the SmartHome guy was actually right with what he told me.

I am far from being an electrical expert & I don't know much about the difference between watts/amps/volts. So I called smarthome's insteon gold support line a couple of days ago and asked if the appliancelinc would work with a window ac. The rep said "sure people do it all the time". I asked if he is sure about it since the specs say it has a maximum of 480 watts. He told me that the watts is only applicable for bulbs and lighting and is irelevant for non-lighting apliances. He said that for appliances you look at the amps not at the watts, and window ACs usually use 7-8 amps, while the appliancelinc supports up to 15 amp. He told me I can look at the circuit breaker to see if it's 15 or 20 amps. If it's 15 I am definitely fine. It didn't sound quite right to me but I took his word for it since I am not an electrical expert. Does that make sense?

Good luck!

That's an important point. I indeed always made sure to buy a model that will auto restart after a power outage since I was going to use them with plug-in timers. I think that virtually all of the latest makes & models, even the digital ones, have the auto restart feature. Thanks.

That's good news. Thanks for the update.

All are 120V units.