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Teken

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  1. No, this device is not supported by the ISY-994. UDI has indicated this device does not act like any other Insteon device what ever that is supposed to mean. The device has lots of potential but Smarthome has not upgraded this device since launch or used the full capability / potential of the product. The device can display three iMeter Solo's and provides local temperature readings. The temperature readings can not be queried by the ISY-994 Series Controller as its a battery device and goes back to sleep. I had asked if the device could send updates to the ISY via RF as the Advert indicated if a change in temperature in a specified period time was met it would broadcast that local temperature. I was advised this could not be supported or be obtained. If all you want is a very basic energy display and local temperature readings its a nice little device. Beyond that its not worth your time in purchasing the unit as its not very flexible in terms of what you can actually do with it.
  2. Absolutely, +1 Regardless of the type of electrical surge protection one decides to use. It does not supersede the need and confirmation of a solid (low resistance) ground in the building. As you indicated another path for a electrical surge is via cable, telephone, and SAT, entry points. One of the things I did to mitigate such a threat was to switch my telephone / cable to fiber. This completely negates any electrical surges coming over the telco / video line as it comes via fiber optical cable. Even though this measure is in place all of the A/V gear in my home which has coaxial lines still feed through a surge / spike protector. The equipment is there why not use it! As it was stated in my install thread even with all these safety measures in place. I have dedicated circuits turned off at the panel breaker, and others simply left unplugged. Ironic, isn't it?
  3. Hello Neil, Using only one on a circuit is fine and will not impact the Insteon signal. Using more than one on the same branch circuit will absorb / suck any power line communications. I saw this first hand when I needed a temporary internet drop and used one of my Trendnet power line Ethernet adapters. The diagnostic led indicated the signal was very degraded and the actual connection was very slow. Also keep in mind these devices do not protect down stream circuits like a GFCI does. This is why I had to install so many of these surge alarm outlets instead of having one at the start of the branch circuit. I wanted to call that out if the documentation was unclear about that aspect. The install thread was created as a place holder for historic review and to share my experience about new technology and how best to integrate it all into one system. It was also intended to help foster the growth of each product mentioned while also helping out fellow enthusiasts such as yourself. It's a pretty long read and some portions are unrelated to one another. But, in the big picture of what I am trying to do which is to manage, control, and promote energy efficiency it all relates to one another. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions
  4. As Neil indicated this is why several layers of surge protection must be used and deployed. The let through voltage / current for the whole house panel is much higher. Also, a whole house even a meter base surge ring does not protect your equipment from internally generated surge / spikes. Such as those from large motors like fridge, sump, compressors, HVAC. Using different types of *point of use* surge protectors with different technologies will provide the most electrical protection at the device level.
  5. I have a Leviton Type 1 surge ring protector at the service entrance protecting the entire home from the POCO. The service panel is protected by a Sycom Secondary Type 2 120/240 surge protector. About 80% of all the outlets in the home are protected by Type 3 Leviton surge alarm outlets. There are many Point Of Use Type 3 Tripp Lite ISOTOL surge strips to provide more outlets and protection. Anything that requires back up power is routed to many APC UPS systems. Some critical systems in the home are wired behind SSR's, Transformers, and Opto Isolators. This is a on going Home Automation installation thread that provides more insight and the brands and models I have in use: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=929&start=40 Please let me know if you have any further questions.
  6. I have been using an entire three layer whole house surge protection for my home for more than five years without issue. It is one of the best pieces of gear you can install into your home to provide some form of electrical protection.
  7. As you're probably aware my solution was to deploy a web enabled power switch. That allows me to remotely turn on, off, cycle the power. It also allows me to ping any network device and react to that state. Others have coupled the above by crafting a ISY program as a watchdog timer etc. In my home, I also have a dedicated 1080P HD IP camera that alerts me if any of the network LED's are on. I use this as a failure over measure because you can actually have a device ping back but in real world its still hung up. The analytic software is geared toward force protection in high security applications. I have simply used a million dollar software package in a very dumb down fashion! Placing the ISY-994 Controller on a UPS in my mind is simply good practice and makes sense. For me its not about being able to control the home etc. More as ensuring my investment does not endure a shorter life due to dirty power or uncontrolled electrical events. Its a little hard to justify a UPS for one piece of gear but if you bundle it up to a decent sized unit and back up multiple devices it kind of softens the blow.
  8. Hello Noel, If you have already reserved the MAC address with in the router for the ISY-994 Controller. That is all you need to do and will serve you well in the future should there be any ISP / Modem changes.
  9. +2, and fully agree with this view and sentiment. In previous replies from UDI they indicated their primary goal was to invest their development time into the hardware / firmware. They indicated they wanted other 3rd party developers to grow and make the front end (GUI). Other forum ISY members have since released some pretty sharp UI / GUI interfaces. But at the end of the day the base ISY interface requires more polish and refinements which can be easily managed, programmed, and deployed for the end user. Some of the programming elements are not intuitive and require lots of pre-reading and trial and error. Its safe to say the ISY-994 Series Controller is not 100% geared to the novice in some aspects. But, the base system does operate out of the box well. Its when you want to initiate more powerful logic / control / programming. This is where many, such as myself, fall short in terms of using it in a point and shoot method. Sometimes the amount of invested time and trial and error is really mind numbing to say the least.
  10. Also, you can reserve the MAC address to the ISY in the router. The benefit in doing so will allow any network changes in the modem / router to propagate to the ISY controller. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions
  11. -170000 WEB_MODULE_NO_FREE_SPACE -5012 UPNP SUBSCRIBER NOREPLY TO EVENT 1 subscriber didn't reply to the event:couldn't write header The entire listing is provided here: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Errors_And_Error_Messages
  12. Once you try out the HUB, you will notice some pretty cool features and how the UI is designed. Afterwards, when the novelty wares off it will be clear the ISY-994 Series Controller will be the decisive solution to link, control, and automate your home.
  13. I have written the programs taking into account voltage swings and hope they operate as expected. This would be so much easier with a box to enter high / low values then to use the current method. Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions
  14. Our company has thousands of these devices installed all over the world. Even with our billion dollar operations and proven track record in buying, using, their products. Their lack luster support, after sales warranty RMA process, is pretty much sh^t. Regardless, the latest version 6-7 are top notch products so hopefully you won't ever have to deal with them personally!
  15. I have not looked into the user manual for this product at all. So, this might be a lot of assumption on my part. As I stated early the unit you have is intended to control devices such as window blinds / motors for a brief moment in time. I do not believe it was intended to be used for continuous use. Hence why I quoted the sales advert above. If this device is timing out I have to assume that is the way its designed. For HVAC related items I used and deployed the On/Off relay indicated above with great success.
  16. Hello Michael, Yes, that has been the on going problem here as late. The voltage in my area has been rock steady for years (always 120 VAC). Now for whatever reason it has fluctuated from 120 - 126 VAC which in terms of (monitored) watts that is an increase of 2-10 plus watts from the base line I have programed for. Which causes all kinds of headaches in crafting a ISY program to perform certain actions and e-mail alerts. What is your experience in using the (IS) operator? I want to be clear on how its supposed to work so any insight would be helpful. As I expect if I use the (IS) operator for example: Dryer IS 5 watts, the system should only fire off if its at 5 watts. But for what ever reason it appears to me anything above 5 watts trips this operator? Isn't that the whole point of the equal and greater than operator? >= I believe its either my lack of understanding of how these operators work, or they simply do not function as intended, or there is a variability in the operator that is unexpected.
  17. The only thing I can say is don't ever try to get warranty repairs from the company. They truly suck *** and have terrible customer service after the sale! They have to be one of the worst American companies I have ever had to deal with regarding warranty repairs and tech support.
  18. Hello Michael, I have revised my program to reflect yours and will report back in a few days regarding success / failure. I thank you so very much for taking the time to share your monitoring programs with me. Will your variable program only fire off one e-mail / resource to push over? I wanted to confirm this because I don't want to receive 999999999999 pieces of mail tomorrow when I test this out.
  19. Michael, That would be most helpful and I thank you.
  20. Hello Michel, I would like to use the full capabilities of the energy module that interfaces with the GEM / ISY. This was the primary driver in investing so much money into this project from the on set. I would rather not invest anymore money into another device (synchrolinc) which would only address some appliances but not others such as the dryer or any 240 volt device. I believe this problem can be easily solved if I was given some basic examples to nudge me in the right direction to craft some programs. I am unsure why there is such a disparity between the options for those who use the *Electricity Module* vs *Status* via the drop down list. At the moment some guidance in crafting a simple program would be most helpful to determine when these appliances are done their cycle.
  21. I have a similar system as yours minus the MyQ and online hub. All of the other parts are exactly the same and was called the Liftmaster 3800 jack shaft back in the day. I have been using the Insteon garage IO kit for more then five years without any issues. The wires that come from the IO simply install in parallel into the actual GDO main board.
  22. The App isn't pretty but it works just perfect!
  23. All you would have to purchase is the following insteon kit: http://www.smarthome.com/74551/I-O-Linc-INSTEON-Garage-Door-Control-Status-Kit/p.aspx
  24. It may not be exactly the same but the basic principle is the same. You can either select the light bulb which says add insteon device or select Start Linking (yellow / blue arrow) at the top.
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