Teken

LOL . . .

We had a old Hoover I think and it had one of those auto rewind coils to retract the cord. When I was much younger I just loved pressing that button and watching the cord whip across the room smashing into everything! I was such a hellion and my Mom would just freak out because it always left a few dents in the drywall. Oh the good old days . . .

There are only three ways I know of and you have listed two of them. The only other method which has nothing do to with what you're asking about is finding out what the Insteon ID is when the label falls off and the ISY Series Controller refuses to add them. That is by manually linking that piece of hardware to an existing device already enrolled into the ISY Series Controller. Having said this you can generate the topology report and print it out. This way you will have the *friendly names* with the Insteon ID.

Yup, the initial reason these were used was for a client who was hearing impaired. Thus the need for lots of visual indicators like strobes, reader boards, and SMS / Push / Email alerts.

Agreed, I've had to train the ladies in the house to always grasp the head of the plug and never the cord. To be fair to Insteon or any Hospital grade outlet those X-Mas light plugs aren't made very well to begin with. Anyone who has the old school green ones can relate the plug and blade is very cheaply made!

If a small budget was available a dedicated flashing / pulsing strobe relay could be used. This would reduce Insteon traffic and ensure notification and the strobe could be repuprosed to do something else like someone is at the door etc. I do this now in a few special applications . . .

Can you explain to me the reason behind this extra step? By its very nature one would assume pulling straight out would require the least effort and amount of work. This doesn't at all dismiss what you're suggesting just that I find the need to do such a task is counter to what *Should* happen. I can tell you anyone who has ever installed or used a Hospital grade outlet will find out they have that grip of death too. Surprisingly, none of the Arrow, Cooper, Eaton, Leviton, P&S outlets have ever shown the same Hulk needed removal process! I certainly have never had a blade left behind from removal either.

If the OP truly see's value in having the ability to flash & beep natively please consider lending your voice to this *Insteon Wish List* idea thread: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/16482-native-beep-flash Once you create a new account you will simply select *LIKE* under the first post. The idea is if the company see's lots of interest in such an idea they may try to incorporate the same in later hardware revisions. As of this writing that initial idea was created on 08, 15, 2014 and has garnered 11 primary likes and 5 sub likes. You want it ~ Speak Up . . .

Limited use is fine but for 20 minutes you're asking for trouble.

I have a few ideas, a couple are pretty simple but requires a outlay of finances. Assuming you don't already have such devices on hand. The other is something I've toyed with in another small project before as a similar need arose. So the first idea is to use one of eight web enabled remote power switches to cycle power to the ISY Series Controller after DST happens. In my head I'm not sure should we hard reboot X seconds after DST? Or wait much longer like X minutes? Would love the communities feed back of the pros and cons of doing either. On the surface it would seem simple enough to say hard boot X seconds vs X minutes. But these controllers perform lots of important things for me in the home so need to be sure what ever time interval is sound in implementation. The other solution is having a 24.7.365 dedicated computer system that doesn't use DST and always runs that old / new time. It would then run the command to hard reset the ISY Series Controller via the remote web switch. This could be via a cheap $5.00 Pi Zero / $35.00 RPi etc. I have many of these computers running now so it's a matter of creating a script and a schedule to complete that hard reboot sequence. All of the 24.7.365 computer systems already run multiple NTP servers to ensure the time is accurate. I'll need to confirm the two computers that are up and running now are still respecting the new / old time. EDIT: Just confirmed there are two systems I had deployed on purpose to ignore DST are in fact displaying the pre DST time. So this will work perfectly! Some may be wounding what is the difference between the two solutions? [emoji848] Both solutions require a piece of hardware to cycle power. But one solutions assumes the controlling system will change its system time based on DST correctly. The other system doesn't use DST so there is no reliance on it flipping time correctly but still uses NTP servers to ensure accurate time keeping. The latter has one less moving part because it always uses the pre DST time! Now to deploy, test, validate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22830-programs-failed/

I use both actually because it has been proven the ISY Series Controller doesn't always bring a piece of hardware back to a OEM state. Most of this hard resetting came about back in the day when the factory was pretty consistent in QA. That often left test links, programming options enabled and thus caused all kinds of odd things to happen. Also, back in the day they had a whole line of *Pre-Linked* switches in those multi-packs. That caused a huge headache for many of those bought second / used gear and wondered how this ghost behavior came about. The most important aspect is the ruminants of so called half links. Lastly, besides documenting all of the stats & metrics in the original PDF full users manual I place the same information in the ISY Series Controllers *Notes* section.

LMAO . . . All joking aside glad things got sorted out in the end. This was a good thread though to highlight the importance of watching for the blades not being left behind. I can't even imagine how I would feel if some little child just happen buy and caressed the exposed blade.

First rule and *Best Practices* is to hard reset every new piece of hardware before it gets enrolled into the Insteon network. Also, ensure you document the install date, production & revision, and ISY firmware.

So they didn't *Do the needful* understood! Given my past experience with both products being so tight I always grip the entire case with two hands. I know many cords have a little safety warning about grasping the head of the plugs etc. But if you use either of these Insteon outlets you better follow that guideline! Then again it doesn't really address the outlet ripping out the blades of the plugs even if you do hold the body of the plug.

I'm thinking part of the issue is this device is a relay KPL. There was a old thread about why the *Options* were not listed. I would link this thread to product request forum so it gets the visibility it needs. This also assumes the KPL Relay for that firmware actually offers any options.

Did you offer them the photo you linked here?

Hello Don, Just to offer some clarification for you the ISY Series Controller only supports the energy profile. It does not support any other such as the ZigBee home automation profile. So unless these devices are using the same ZigBee energy profile you can not enroll or connect to them.

I think because of the DST issue its best to have an external device to hard reboot the ISY Series Controller during those events. Sometimes I really wish there was a option to schedule a soft reboot in the ISY Series Controller. It would really help solve these unique conditions that come up once in awhile. Moving forward I am going to deploy a hard reset process for all the controllers.

Don, Take your time, some key things for a long term deployment is enjoyable and solid. - Decide on a naming schema that makes sense and is scale-able. - Variables: Append (I) for Integer (s) for State this will help when selecting and identifying them for programs. - Use the notes option to record Insteon ID, Hardware Specs like production, install date, firmware. - Always make a back up *before* a big change is done and afterwards. - Do not select the *Enable Internet* it has nothing to do with the Internet per say.

Not going to happen unless your using Insteon RF or power line. Have tried installing the signal bridge at the service panel? Also if you have a outdoor outlet a Rube Goldberg method is to install a plugin dual band device very high up in a outdoor rated enclosure. I've done this on four installs this year alone. One was for a hobby farm and another for a guy who owned a home mechanic shop. Worked great and both spanned over 150 feet. I used the on-off relay as its small and offers the longest range when compared to the older hardware. It also enables you to tell if RF vs Power line is making a difference because you can toggle either one off. Absolutely helps identify and prove reception is done by either one. Good luck! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you offer a screen capture of you selecting one of those switches and than show us the primary window pane?

Well besides the safety shutter ~ must have bent two prongs just trying to insert the bloody thing!!

Glad you got that sorted out because if you showed me that picture and I was the CSR. The only thing I would have asked is what's your address for the replacement. I haven't seen that ever happen but can affirm those freaking plugs and the On-Off module plugs are tight like tiger! I had a fixture attached to the On-Off relay module upon removing the plug it quickly yanked away. I looked down and found one of the pins still embedded into the clamps. Must have taken me ten minutes to pry that prong loose . . .

I can tell you if someone is so cheap they can't afford to spend $2.25 for what appears to be incredible value. Everything else they have in their home / lives is cheap and living on borrowed time . . .