Teken

Depending upon how old, type of Freon, If the freezer is operating correctly. A low temp could be as simple as low freon, bad TSAT, bad thermistor, to literally its not insulated well enough. As an aside, the Energy Star program has revamped the methods and requirements to obtain said ratings. What does this mean to the Average Joe? It means if you buy a 2017 freezer that states X for energy and Y for annual costs. It will be more accurate than what has been offered in previous years. As there were many companies (name who ever) that were scamming and not following the actual guide lines. The one thing I am going to do should the opportunity present itself is to purchase a top loading freezer opposed to a standing unit. Offers a larger margin of long term cooling vs a standing unit . . . Having said that make sure you purchase a quality name brand that has good reviews!!

Sure, I'll entertain maybe something changed in the *Overall Product* but I won't accept the fact UDI could have come out with a better reliable product. Again, I must state Michel needs to engage the new management to see if this product can be brought to market. One would think allowing someone else to carry the torch would reaffirm to the general public that Smartlabs is even remotely serious. Given there has been zero additions in hardware to the global international market place ~ the company isn't serious. How anyone would let a multi-billion market slip away to the competitor(s) is mind boggling . . . Everyday there is another Kickstarter / IndiGoGo campaign that offers home automation and each of them have been able to obtain all of the required certifications for RF / Power Line. The Smartlabs company has a direct line and process to submit and certify their wares. This really comes down to a lack of care, focus, and business goals. I can tell you with 100% certainty if the new guy comes out with yet another Hub that offers no local connection, access, management, and conditional logic. You already know this guy is completely clueless and isn't serious about the long term survival of the Insteon brand. Let's see where iCS 3 comes to play in all of this because its only been 5 freaking years!!!

What is the reason the two freezers are set to different cooling points? Icing / frost build up is primary due to the amount of humidity (moisture) that is allowed to enter the interior. Opening and closing the door and how long the door remains open contribute to this also. Also keep in mind the method and installation of the measurement tool will add / subtract from the recorded value. IE. If the sensor is directly placed on a frozen item this will give you one measurement. Placing the sensor inside of a substrate material like sand / beads will reduce and offset immediate temp drops. Suspending the sensor in *Free Air* will offer immediate and instant air temperature readings. From a purely diagnostic and *Nerd* view point I use all three methods to measure the environment. Going this route will ensure when there is a hardware failure you will absolutely know how the food stuff is performing.

Sandry, You're awesome and you know it!

Hello MrBill, TANGENT ALERT: What you're observing is actually normal for a freezer / fridge. What is of prime importance is how long it takes for the temps to increase. How long the (run time) number of cycle it takes to achieve the defined temperature. On the surface one would think both would be the same from loss to cooling ~ they are not! A loss of temperature is directly related to the amount, type, and method of insulation and sealing. Cooling (Cycle Time) comes down to the method employed by the hardware appliance manufacture. IE. Coils on the side, top, bottom, in the holding trays. The volume of the unit, type of food, and outside ambient temperatures. Unless physical space is at a premium in the home neither a fridge or freezer should ever be placed outside or in a garage. For every 2 degree's above 70'F will increase the run time & cycles from a few minutes to hours. Also, a empty freezer will lose temperature faster, a freezer that is 50% full will take longer, a freezer 100% full will of course take much longer. This is why its imperative to load the freezer with bottles of water / freezer packs. This offers not only stable temperatures, but reduced run time, cycles, and in case of an electrical outage. More time to keep the food cold while you resolve the issues. Lastly, 0'F is called out by lots of people in the Interwebs. I've found in my personal real world testing the ideal balance of energy consumption, safe (long term) food storage, and stable temps is -5 to -10'F. Setting your freezer below that value is a waste of energy and impacts the foods taste, color, and Vietminh content. TANGENT END . . .

Based on Stu's initial reply I had to check my own system because I swear unless I was losing my mind. I did in fact have several 4 button RL2 that sort correctly. I have to assume the OP has a UI & Firmware conflict or there is a firmware change in the RL2 that is causing this. As seen in this image capture mine is sorted correctly . . . The 4 button RL2's I have report in as having been produced in 2014, 24th week, revision 1.5S, ISY v.37 firmware EDIT: Scratch that Stu is correct my 8 button RL2 (Top Button) is not sorted correctly. Looks to be normal for what ever reason.

Hello Steve, Is the UI & Firmware both at the same revision? You can see this in Help -> About Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Steve, The listing is spelling dependent. If you use a numeric value preceding the name it will not sort correctly and vice versa. Simple test just name the button A, B and you will see. If you name it 1A and B you will understand why the buttons appear out of order. [emoji846] Also at the top select A-Z this will sort it alphabetically. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, you will need to sit and watch for awhile. In my case it's either very apparent or not. The not is due to change in seasons. More specifically I have lots of I/O from power, temperature, water, voice, programs which are updated based on environmental in the home. When it's super hot / cold there are hundreds of programs and variables firing off. That amount of activity seems to be locking up my controller about 24~48 hours in. [emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If we assume this is caused by programs a nice diagnostic tool besides the level 3 logs open and viewing is to watch the status colors of each program / folder . If you see rapid changes in color like it's strobing. That is a key indicator that specific program / folder needs attention. I've been fighting with the very same issue here. [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, absolutely that was one of the first things that came to mind. As it's a low cost, simple, and bullet proof design. I only went this route because all of the hardware is in place now and no out of pocket expense was needed. If I can't figure out what is wrong with this freezer this week I'll toss a coin and either purchase the egg timer / thermostat assembly. Based on Google search the timer is much easier to purchase. [emoji106] For what ever reason the companies that carry this specific TSTAT won't ship to Canada [emoji1063]!! [emoji35] In 2017 and global world e-commerce I am truly speechless! [emoji55] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to make this simple less possible failure points to worry about. I just tested the simple and basic program apostolakisl offered here and modified it for a short run to test. Works as expected and will include the 1 wire temperature as a fail over in case my timing isn't correct. Given its going to be running for 50 minutes and waiting one hour this mimics what the freezer was doing before it stopped operating correctly. As an aside I have to say with out this kind of technology: ISY Series Controller, Insteon, Autelis, Brultech GEM, none of this would have been possible. I'll circle back with more information as it comes in ~ Thank you all very much! Apostolakisl <-- As always thank you for your time and knowledge.

This program looks very good I will fire it up on a shorter period to test. Will this program actually initiate from a cold boot with out a (IF) statement? I know you added a run at start up ( will test to make sure ) but is there anything else that would cause it not to run?

Based on your example if I want it to run for one hour and turn off. But want it to come back on an hour later I should change that repeat to say 1 hours?

It could be the program didn't fire off, or turn off as expected. It could be the device didn't actually turn on / off for what ever COMM issue. It could be there was a power failure and the ISY Series Controller had to reboot etc. Apologies for the lack of detail as I didn't want to muddy the waters with back ground information that wasn't too important. Long story short there is a freezer that was defrosted. Upon cleaning it all up and loading it up with over 150 lbs of fresh chicken the freezer won't stop running! The freezer cools the contents very well and there is a 1 wire sensor and a remote sensor that confirms its super cold inside. Never mind the chicken are now rock hard because the freezer was running none stop for the last 8~9 days! The door gaskets are good, this is a manual stand up GE freezer, and based on the model and schematic there appears to be only one unit that controls the temperature. It appears to have a simple bulb style thermistor which ties directly to the mechanical temp dial. Changing the dial from 1~X doesn't seem to force this thing to stop. It just keeps on running and getting colder so I doubt its a freon leak. Then again I'm not a appliance professional so what the hell do I know! There doesn't appear to be any so called freon bubble on the coils. All of the grills / coil assembly *appear* to be evenly cold, frosted, and what not. Which lots of on line forums says that's an indicator of a leak, blockage, etc. I obviously can't check the sealed compressor or measure the levels because I don't have the tools to do so. Any Freezer pro's or those who have past experience by all means chime in. As stated early on this is a stop gap until I can either identify the problem or worst case throw money at it and buy the thermostat assembly which comes with the temp probe. I honestly don't know how defrosting a freezer can cause it to fail . . .

No schedule time it simply has to come on and run for what ever time I feel is correct. Then start back up at what ever interval that's needed. So for example turn on and run for 1 hour. After that hour turn off and wait say two hours and turn back on and repeat that whole cycle over and over.

Hello Stu, Show me your program idea and let's see if it fits the bill. I'm really hoping to resolve this issue correctly in the near future. ☹️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would believe the PSU as the primary culprit over the ISY Series Controller. Replace it and see what happens. The two most common failure and when I say common it's not very common. But the 3rd party PSU and Micro SD Card which neither UDI makes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need a program that will turn on an appliance for X hours then stop. Then start back up X hours later. This program would operate like this forever and survive a reboot. Extra marks for checking if the program ran a few minutes ago should there be something amiss not accounted for. This is a band aid measure until I can obtain the parts. Thank You! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Fred, I did purchase a small batch a long time ago. I used four sets myself and since this thread was created. The last eight kits were shipped out to other forum members here in Canada. I guess purchasing two dozen sets would have been ideal! [emoji38] Considering it was a lot cheaper 2-3 years ago along with being able to obtain all of the direct replacement components. [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Normally this is caused by rapid network resources / programs. Disable all programs and activate one at a time until it faults out. It should be noted rebooting the system will cause the queue full to take some time to fill up / show an error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*Best Practices* for me and many others has always been to place clear tape over the Insteon Address. Followed with taking a picture of the hardware and saving it in a secure location. In the past I would also take the PDF (Full Manual) and append the Insteon address, install date, and production / revision. Some have also added the same information into the ISY Series Controller in the *Notes* section. Simply right mouse click on that node and enter the details you feel are relevant. Rock On . . .

What does the front sticker say is the production date and revision of this switch? Older switch linc timers actually had no air gap set button.

I'm not sure If I understand what the problem is? Can you maybe rephrase it a little better? On the surface I would be using *Control* as the (IF) condition but this assumes the door is open and closed during that time period. If you use *Status* the last state or any other elements can cause it to run like a program etc. Lastly, are these incandescent lights that are turned on at 1%? I've only seen a handful of LED lights that do in fact turn on and dim to 1%. If so would like to know what the brand and model is LED assuming that's what is in use.

That's pretty cool to know I have a custom email alert sent to me indicating what sensor is low. Julie U.S. follows up with telling me verbally what sensor is low also. She will continue to inform me until I change the battery every 24 hours. I'm working on a *Digital Reader Board* to do the very same. The long term goal is to have all notifications, alerts, warnings, and emergency messages displayed on the network reader board.