Teken

Just in case some of the different major brands escapes you these are the most common: Arrow, Eaton, Cooper, Leviton, Pass & Seymour (P&S), Hubbell. There are many 2nd & 3rd tier switch makers too but this is more for information than anything for common brands. Circle back and let us know how things turn out ~ Good vs Bad.

A quick search for just the Leviton branded ELV dimmers shows the prices range from $26 ~ 65.XX. I would keep other brands on your list just in case your location doesn't carry them locally. Then again that's why they created the Internet for shopping: Amazon, Ebay, Home Depot, Lowes, Who ever . . . I can tell you with a high level of confidence the hum / buzz will only irritate you as time goes on. No clue if Smartlabs will ever update their hardware to support more *Typical Loads* now seen in the open market place. Lastly, as you noted dimming that specific load with out a ELV dimmer will in the long run damage the PSU in the LED fixture. Clearly, Nurff foot ball was never on your radar . . .

For the benefit of others who may stumble upon this thread even though the product you're using doesn't *Officially Support* LED fixtures. Tens of millions of people have been doing so with great results. You can count me as one of those millions who have had nothing but positive results using Insteon and LED bulbs. The key is to find, test, and validate said load is fine in all manner of operations from turning on, turning off, no hum, buzz, flicker, to strobing. As noted there are several other Insteon dimmable hardware and they are Switch Linc which you have in place now. The Micro Dimmer which allows you to make a *Dumb* switch smart and still keep that classic switch in place. Then, there is the Inline Linc which does state it supports LED loads and various others. The problem as you clearly stated is the fixture is 30 feet in the air and I personally would not entertain placing any Insteon hardware in those extreme heights. You have to be mental to think long term that is a good idea . . . Regardless, the link you provided looks good and (IF) you were going to migrate to Z-Wave ~ Why not. Its pretty expansive for a switch but if it works that's all that matters. Having said this there is a Leviton ELV (None Smart) dimmer which I would encourage you to use and test first. Why??? Because it will 100% identify and eliminate the fixture as the root cause. You don't want to buy a $120.XX Z-Wave switch only to find out it still buzzes & hums! I would humbly suggest you purchase one of those $25.00 Leviton ELV dimmers form Home Depot and find out first and you can return it later if it passes this basic test.

The product specifications calls out dimmable using ELV dimmers ~ Insteon is not! Insteon uses Leading Edge vs ELV is Trailing Edge power drivers.

The are only a few Insteon devices which state it supports LED loads which are the ILL and the other thing which I can't recall?!? I believe its the ballast thingy but that's for electronic ballasts!

Your options based on stress vs reward: Replace the load with another LED brand, Install a Micro Dimmer at the fixture, Install incandescent / halogen bulbs which the switch is rated for, add a small incandescent load to the branch circuit.

No worries ~ If at some point you replace the old hardware with new. If you're feeling handy you can engage me directly and I will offer you a link to a *How To* to replace the capacitors. The worst case the hardware was going into the trash ~ Best case you gave it another 5~10 years of service life just by replacing a few cheap capacitors!

Hello Sandry, The ISY Series Controller needs to be hard booted. Its possible you may have a few programs in a tight loop or too many running in parallel. You can determine this by simply disabling all programs and activating them one by one until there is a fault. Also, if you have lots of *Run at Startup* programs this too can cause issues.

Hello Phillip, Thanks for the pictures they are perfect. Speaking from personal experience if after doing multiple hard resets & device restores. If the actual device can't hold its links it's the switch itself. More specifically it's the capacitors inside the unit. Your hardware is from 2011 produced in the 49th week. Those units exhibited those issues which I called out above. You can hard reset the switch and complete the device restore and see what happens if it works monitor it. If it loses its links you have two choices replace with a new dual band unit or repair the switch by replacing all the capacitors like I did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Phillip, How old is the unit and can you let us know what model and production date it has? That information is listed on the face of the unit and the firmware is listed by the ISY Series Controller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If this is something you feel strongly about and offers value to the product. Please consider adding your voice to this Formal Insteon Wish List: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list You will need to sign up with a new account to add the new feature request ~ You have my vote and support!

When the heart beat is received only that node will be updated. The only way to see the other nodes true state of open / closed is to open / close the window or by pressing the white set button. The only stop gap measure is to place the ISY Series Controller on a UPS during brief power outages. Obviously that doesn't help you when you cycle power manually via soft boot. So your only alternative is to create a Integer Variable that tracks the last state which a program can track to reference the *Last True State*. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Once you completed all of the changes to the system ensure you make a good back up. Store a few copies on external drives, cloud copy, and hard media.

I freely admit X-10 was something that never interested me in the least. Having seen what other friends / members had done to make the X-10 system reliable was incredible. To be fair X-10 ushered in home automation for all and this is what helped create Insteon, UPB, and Power Line Ethernet. I just find it incredible in 2017 there are still probably tens of thousands of people all over the world still using this legacy technology. The only thing that I can think of off the top of my head that has had such lasting effect and use is RS-232 (Serial) connection. To the X-10 creators ~ Bravo . . .

Hello Sandry, Glad the linked resource helped you out. Hope to find Mom & Baby all doing well!

Hello Sandry, Not sure if you had the chance to review this related thread: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17271-hub-ii-isy-echo-integration/ I personally would not try to make the two systems co-exist where the systems have links together. I've done this in the past to see how things operated and in a small Insteon network with very little programs in the ISY Series Controller its manageable. When you have lots of complex programs and Insteon hardware with linked scenes you're just setting yourself up for trouble. I have four ISY Series Controllers and three HUB II and one Hub v2 which operate in a isolated environment.

I would gather you would go into a program and assign the house codes per this EDOC: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2380_web.pdf Unless there is a driving need to have this device in your home it really doesn't make sense to use this legacy hardware. I have to admit X-10 is the HA that simply won't die and go away . . .

The easiest method is to use Node Link on a RPi to capture the above.

Correct, this was something I worked with the Brultech team for a long time to implement. The Dash Box has become more than a data storage server since its inception. It has incorporated many of the suggestions and ideas from me and many others to make it a *Supporting* home automation tool. Just some quick features of the DB in place now: - Energy data server to chart, graph, view live, recall historic data, compare environmental's vs energy consumtion - Integrated weather channel to track, recall, and compare what drives energy demands - IFTTT support to connect other hardware and third party cloud hosted services - Conditional alert messaging to monitor, track, and react to user settings - SEG: Supports relaying the same data to Smart Energy Groups for more charting & graphing - Forward Data: Allows the same data to be forwarded to any 3rd party software platform for charting & graphing - ISY 994: Supports sending 32 electrical channels, 8 1 wire temperature, 4 pulse, voltage, weather for reactive home automation - DNS Forwarding: Enables a user to define a friendly name to access the Dash Box - Brultech Portal: Enables large enterprise the ability to manage and access all energy monitors all from one console - IP Tracking & Naming: Allows the person to see who has been accessing the DB from outside the LAN - Data Input: Allows the user to delete / edit and modify data points for accuracy - Back Up: Ability to back up critical data to off site storage via software application - Billing: Supports fixed, tiered, and Time of Use (ToU) electrical billing - Predictive Usage: The system can predict what the daily KWH / $ will be based on current energy consumption - Analyze: The system can track and inform the user what loads were the highest consumers - Dashboards: Allows the end user the ability to create any combination of dashboards to reflect the metrics and stats of the data points There are many more under the hood features that no other energy monitor has on the market place or ever will. I can safely state 2018 will offer some interesting features that will continue to keep the Brultech Dash Box / GEM the leader in the Energy Monitoring / Energy Management space.

Hello Don, Just to clarify, the Brultech GEM in itself does not offer any long term means to view the data. The ISY Series Controllers *Admin Console* is also not intended to be used as a method to view the energy readings over a long period of time. The energy data can be viewed by using middle ware like a RPi which uses free 3rd party software to do the same. Going this route will require a serious amount of *Learning & Trial* but ultimately its free. The other route is to purchase the dedicated Plug & Play Brultech Dash Box (DB) which ingests, tracks, recalls, and displays all the various channels from 32 electrical, 8 1 wire temperature sensors, 4 pulse sensors, and voltage.

Hello Don, Sure here is a image capture from my system using the Brultech GEM. The one labeled main tree is offered to show you what it looks like at a high level. You can see to the right the system updates the energy values based on the GEM's send interval you define. Because the GEM has 32 electrical channels each one is represented as a channel. I selected channel one which monitors one side of the electrical leg and you can see it tracks current wattage, accumulated KWH, voltage, and polarized power (NET Energy). Below in that same window is tab called *Options* there you can do some basic things like reset the accumulated counters for electrical, pulse, second counters, all counters, or that specific counter. The image called *Programs* shows you that any of the 32 electrical channel can be used in programs. In this screen shot my program is monitoring my fridge. It tracks when the fridge comes on, off, how many times, for how long, and when it goes into defrost mode. The system also tracks the current, lowest, highest values the fridge ever attains. The programs are crafted to also inform me via SMS, Email, Voice announcement, and Visual Aids as to normal ~ out of band conditions too. Let me know if you need more insight or clarification . . .

Circle back with the group as I am very curious to find out what the root cause was. On the surface it seems there was a IP conflict on the network. Did the ISY Series Controller have a fixed IP? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Don, Not quite, there are two different product SKU's. One is set up to connect to POCO smart meters for those utilities that allow it. A list is available from UDI to ensure it can be done. The other ZigBee hardware is dedicated to work with 3rd party energy monitors like Brultech models from ECM-1220, 1240, Green Eye Monitor (GEM) etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From personal experience unless the Insteon devices are isolated from one another you're setting yourself for total failure. I run four isolated Insteon networks at home. One is for Alpha / Beta testing. The other three are used for various production use. There are four ISY Series Controllers and three Hub II's. None of this would be possible using a cross over network. At some point one of the controllers will crawl the network and those links will get deleted, modified, or have half links. This can result in delays to comm errors in scenes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would verify the ISY Series Controller always shows connected and online from the router when you say it's not accessible first. Next confirm there is no IP conflict which is easy to accomplish by setting the ISY Series Controller to DHCP and reserving its MAC address in the router. Next confirm any and all fire wall / anti virus are white listed for the controller. Easiest thing is to disable both and see. Lastly, from the *Dashboard* Not from the Admin Console confirm encryption is set to TLS 1.2 128 bit / all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk