Teken

Hello Steve, Please test it several times just to validate there are no lingering issues here. Don't want to be out of town and have that same condition occur! Otherwise ~ Rock On . . .

iOS = Mobilinc Android = Agave There are a few free solutions but I will need to get back to you which ones as I'm headed to the gym. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should never have two controllers active. Get rid of it and report back the results Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Steve, Can I ask you to confirm visually that the 240 VAC controller is indeed a NC vs NO unit. The only way to confirm this is to open up the unit and validate the wiring on the relays. It should be noted another option is to move the wires from NC to NO and takes only a few minutes with pliers. Doing so in this situation may very well solve this odd issue. I guess what concerns me is the fact your saying the NC relay is being opened upon power up is this correct? Also it should be noted if this device is still under the 2 year warranty period I would RMA it for s NO unit. The primary reason is the NC units don't sell and their hardware isn't updated when compared to the NO units. This is why if you decide to go this route get a NO unit and rewire it to a NC which offers all the hardware and firmware updates. One thing I haven't seen confirmed is if the *Last Known* state is operating as expected. It's important to disable everything or better yet delete and hard reset the 240 load controller. Once done power it up and confirm what state it's in. In this case it would be NC and power would be applied. Turn off the breaker a few times waiting about 20~ 30 seconds to confirm. If the last known state is confirmed and validated to work add it back to the ISY Series Controller. Ensure at this point the programs are still disabled and rinse & repeat the power cycle to the two units. If the unit comes up OK this is 100% a programming issue. If you need pictures of the load controller relay being changed let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Steve, Would you please disable both run at startup programs and repeat the test(S) and let us know the results. I also forgot to ask you to disable the query on start up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having tried this FS process on three other controllers with different brands of Micro SD cards. The Goodbye prompt never appeared after I typed in Y and enter. I let one sit over night and nothing was seen just the same last entry and pulsing space bar in the terminal window. As Larry correctly stated once the card is formatted in Linux it's not visible / readable in a Windows computer.

Appreciate the extra software resources. [emoji106] Thanatar offered a built in amplify solution within the Audacity software platform. It took a few minutes of playing around to understand how it works. [emoji848] Afterwards, it was rinse and repeat for the 400 plus voice announcements! [emoji849]

The WiKi states when the FS (Format Command) is issued to select Y/N in capitals (Y) for yes. It follows by saying once the format process is complete the system will state a *Goodbye* once complete. The *Goodbye* never appeared at all even after waiting for a very long time. 1. What is the length of time to format a new Micro SD card? 2. Are we sure the WiKi entry is still current and applicable for 4.6.2 firmware 3. What is the maximum capacity for the 994 Series Controller is it still only 16 GB? WiKi Entry: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

INFORMATION ONLY: During the initial release of the original leaks sensor there have been several updates and revision to the firmware and hardware. Older hardware automatically reset from wet to dry (IF) and when that area was no longer wet. Later revisions of this leak sensor required the person to physically to press the set button to reset the sensor from wet to dry once you dried the sensor. Older leak sensors also sent either a heart beat (ON) vs (OFF). Later Insteon firmware with the exact same version sent the opposite of (OFF) heart beat vs (ON) heart beat. As others have noted if and when the ISY Series Controller is rebooted the current status of the wet / dry nodes becomes unknown and blank. Best practices is to place the ISY Series Controller on a small dedicated UPS to ensure its last known state for all battery operated devices remain intact. Also, from personal experience do not ever assume a sensor can not trip because there is no *Visible* water. If a Insteon Leak Sensor is left on bare concrete and depending upon environment and moisture content this can absolutely trip a sensor or cause it to toggle from wet to dry at random times. Don't ask me how I know this . . . Lastly, if you remove the *Run at start up* for both programs let me know if you see the same behavior. You may be very surprised to see that problem(s) goes away.

This doesn't address the specific problem you had with the red LED. But the KPL has the ability to inform the user if the device is incorrectly wired. In the past the older KPL's would make a horrible buzz indicating such a miswire. Ensure the next KPL is properly wired and note the *Load* wire is not used for the light fixture any longer. Simply cap off the red load wire and tuck it in . . . NOTE: Information only, newer devices can blink on traffic, blink on error, and blink on ack. Those that support dual color LED's will show the same (IF) enabled.

Hello Bill, Much appreciated and thank you. RE: Low Volume - I am not sure what's happen to Julie U.S. at the Oddcast website but there is definitely a volume issue. Last night I went through hundreds of voice announcements and all of them are at the correct level. Any *New* voice announcements are easily 30~40% lower in volume?!? Thanks to the all mighty Thanatar I've defined the custom amplified volume and have modified all the latest files to have the same output. Because there is a obvious volume difference I'm spending this weekend editing all of the files to use the same output level.

Just confirmed there is no right mouse click on the top root program folder. So you can simply enter a date and time *Conditional* period that you believe would suffice.

You wouldn't happen to have a inside look of this setup do you? Also, do you recall what the final costs was for the CT sensor and a resource link? One of the guys looking over my shoulders is asking and BTW. To everyone in the forums lots of tech nerds are very happy with the alternate solutions from: Relays, Web Control, Adafruit, etc. Seeing nine tech nerds all eye balling this thread is quite comical . . .

As you stated a divider to separate both HV / LV would have been the ideal solution while staying with in NEC / CEC. Matters not you get a (A) for over all execution . . .

I believe if you had to do this again a cleaner approach would have been to purchase a dual plate cover but the other side would be solid. That would simply allow the CT to be hidden underneath and sit enclosed. This obviously assume the correct work box with the required depth to be used. Regardless, could you offer a inside view of what this whole thing looks like?

I have to ask was that an existing switch you carved out an opening for that CT?

Hello Kevin, As always, your generosity and investment in time to offer this project to the community can not be understated. I look forward to reading over the documents in the next few week ends! Thank You!

Nope . . . But, I echo your thoughts about how fantastic this project is! I would greatly appreciate it if you could document this journey in a new thread as I really wanted to do the same using the Pi Zero W. I believe Kevin & Aaron have really ironed out most of the bugs in the setup and called out some of the nuances of this project. I intended to do the very same but got side tracked in several other Alpha / Beta projects. Looking forward to your *How To* my friend . . .

Given two of the nuclear power plants are scheduled to be shut down I would just unplug the entire system. If you really want to just stop the programs go to the top of the program tree and right mouse click and disable that main program item. You may have to add a condition to the main section to disable it. I'm not in front of the controller so going off memory. Hoping you and yours will be OK during this massive category 5 event. ☹️[emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Thanatar, As always you come to the rescue for me!! I've attached a sample of the wave form before and after. I honestly don't know why these ten new audio files are so much quieter when compared to the other 400 plus I made?!?! Regardless, there is a tool and a fix for that via the all mighty Thanatar . . . You Rock ~ And you know it my friend!! Thank You!

Hello Thanatar, Can you point to the area where I can do this to an existing audio file? Everything in the software is in the default state and the volume / recording levels are all at their maximum levels. I see no way to *Boost* the audio at all unless its in a hidden window pane.

Another issue I've recently come to see and wonder if others have seen. I created ten additional voice announcements and for what ever reason the volume is (approx) 30~40% lower than the existing ones in place?!? Has anyone else seen this while creating new Julie U.S. voices? I had considered there was a problem on the little netbook I was using so went to another work station but the results were the same. I than went to another work station and the results were also the same! If anyone has a recommendation for a sound level normalizer program let me know because this is super annoying.

LOL [emoji23]

I would affirm once again, if a slow blow fuse was intended it would have been incorporated into the final hardware. My feedback is strictly to enforce the material facts that a person can't *Wild Willy* replace a quick blow fuse with something not intended to be present. Also, I am extremely confident those who ignore the above and use a slow blow fuse will have nothing but a smoldering brick should a out of band current condition exist. Many of us can already state Insteon hardware isn't the best and thought out designs which use the best electronic parts. The Synchro Linc like its other siblings: Energy Meter, iSolo, 240 load controller, Toggle Linc, etc haven't seen a update in hardware design since product launch.

All great options and solutions. Assuming the OP wants to stick with Insteon he could also go with the Smartenit: https://www.smarthome.com/smartenit-ezio8sa-insteon-compatible-input-output-controller.html Like you just because you monitor one thing it won't cover all bases which your example illustrated. I talked about the very same when the topic was for monitoring a freezer / fridge. Just because you monitor for power (watts) or line voltage it doesn't offer the true insight of other failures in the system. Freezer Examples: Monitor for voltage: This doesn't tell you if the door is ajar, thermostat is set too low / too high, Freon leak, leaky seal, etc. Monitor for Temperature: This doesn't tell you if line voltage has been lost for an extended period of time, thermostat is faulty causing long run times, etc Monitor for Power: This doesn't tell you if the temperature is with in the safe operating range, leaky seals, low Freon, compressor fault, etc