Teken

The siren and alert module are not supported in the 4.X.X firmware platform. Partial support for these devices reside in the 5.X.X Alpha firmware. If you have a simple Insteon setup you may consider migrating to this.

If security is really the prime importance focus upon the force protection elements. No bells and whistles are going to stop a person from kicking down the door for a smash and grab. Install grade 1 lock sets and dead bolts from Medeco for starters. Install a breach kit from Armour Concepts which reinforces the hinges, strike plate, and door jambs. While at home install a door guardian to prevent anyone breaching the door or via lock picking. With a properly installed *Door Guardian* its near impossible to breach a solid door. Ideally, all sensors from the security alarm system need to be hard wired as this ensures two way communications is always present. No matter how good wireless RF has come along the weak point is the human. Human will never ever be ready or prepared to inspect, measure, replace the batteries which happen in inopportune times. Based on the systems you listed up above I would humbly ask you to reconsider the alarm systems as they are not going to offer you any real protection. Security is a lifestyle not simply a thing or service . . . Regardless of any security alarm system in place, force protection, the only thing that will make you whole is proper home owners insurance. Your sister needs to sit down with her insurer and discuss her real world needs and IF her worldly possessions are properly covered. Failure to have the proper (amount / type) of coverage will leave you in the dirt. No matter what anyone ever tells you self monitoring is not acceptable and those who do have no clue or care as to what's important. A certified CS (Central Station) is the only *Thing* that will ensure fire, police, EMS, who ever will come and render assistance when needed. Having a properly installed and certified grade 2 alarm and monitored will also offer a insurance discount too. Lastly, no matter the alarm system in place (hardwired vs wireless) annual *Walk / Load Tests* must be performed. 99.999999999999999999% of the population never do them never mind know what the hell a walk test / load test is! Anyone who works in business with solid computer security processes knows user names and passwords need to be changed at intervals. I can tell you with 100% confidence there isn't a soul on this board that changes their user name, password, challenge phrase, duress code, ever . . . Duress Code?!?!? What the hell is that??? Go look it up and then sit back and think about everything I just wrote about.

That would be illegal and against fire code to use the smoke alarms other than for its intended purpose. As the other member indicated its best to use a third party siren or Insteon version.

May I ask what is the reason wanting to *Trigger* the First Alert One Link system??

It's all about that big eye ball motion sensor eh?? [emoji38]

^ What this man said . . . .

Just to clarify if we assume this feature ever gets off the ground and into production. Will Alexa speak out loud without human intervention?!? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had 12 Power Line Ethernet units at one time before all of the CAT-7 / Fiber infrastructure was in place. Never had any Insteon issues just hardware reliability, added energy costs, and extra failure point(s). Power Line Ethernet is a great option but isn't a long term solution.

Its important to also consider if its just a maintenance issue so check to see if the unit is dirty and clean any fluff / debris with electronic safe canned air. Some units may also behave oddly when the battery is low even though they are running primarily on 120 VAC. Remove the batteries and test them to ensure they are still within its stated VDC. Lastly, keep in mind cleaning ionizing vs photo electric sensors is similar but due care must be used to avoid damaging a ionizing sensor with high pressure canned air. CO detectors depending upon make, model, and production year have a operating service life of 5, 7, 10 year depending upon maker which supersedes the smoke detection aspect. Smoke sensors need to be replaced at the ten year mark regardless of maker for consumer models ~ commercial units you need only replace the sensing chamber.

Just some items to consider and think about: - The 2466S is one of the last Insteon devices which are power line only and thus requires a solid mesh. - Always confirm your Insteon network is properly coupled / bridged via the 4 tap beacon test which is outlined in any full users manual. - Smoke Detector: Confirm the electrician did not tap into the signal wire opposed to the power & neutral wire. In some States / Provinces if the 120 VAC smoke detector is connected to a security alarm panel they may use a interface relay. This relay has been known to be impacted by third party hardware devices.

What kind and type of magnet sensor are you using? If you're using the cheaper white contact sensor I would encourage you to purchase and install this version: https://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html Going this route ensures the proper display on the Insteon KPL switches. Lastly, every magnetic sensor has a specification for *Gap Distance* this needs to be followed to ensure the most reliable and consistent operations regardless of sensor in use.

If you have newer Insteon hardware you can enable the blink on traffic. At that point you can monitor a switch while on generator power and see if the lights flash. Keep in mind this is also very dependent upon the type, brand, and model of bulb in use. If its any kind of LED bulb YMMV so keep that in mind . . .

Wow . . . Old thread ~ Blast from the past for sure.

I believe the Z-Wave card is not available from UDI at this time. But you can purchase the same from any of the 3rd party vendors along with the ($1.00 activation) Z-Wave module. If deploying a RPi and working with the Node Server concept isn't your direction. I would encourage you to purchase the Brultech Dash Box (DB). As this will make integrating the GEM into the ISY Series Controller much easier . . . The DB is a stand alone Linux box that stores all of your energy and much more locally with no cloud dependencies which provides charts and graphs. It offers many features and resources like IFTTT, DNS Forwarding, Conditional E-Mail Alerts, 3rd party data send, SEG Support, Weather, and dozen of other features. The DB once set up is a Plug & Play device with very little maintenance . . . There isn't anything on the market that offers so much for so little with respect to energy monitoring & energy management. Please let me know if you require more insight or clarification . . . My signature below offers a direct link to my projects thread which show cases the advancement of this incredible energy storage server.

From a high level every dual band unit that does not have the ability to select RF vs Power line uses a unified circuit and thus any power line issues are seen on the RF side. This is why the new dual out let relay and plugin on-off relay module are such great hardware. They physically use two different paths to communicate vs a unified one. It only took ten years for Joe Dadda to wake up and grab a brain. What any first year engineers would know is a epic failed design and concept.

Your first task is to confirm the split single phase electrical system in your home is properly bridged / coupled as noted in any Insteon full users manual. The 4 tap (Beacon) bridging / coupling test is outlined in most of the full users manual and 2413S manual. Once confirmed your next task is to identify any noise makers / signal suckers in the home. Your options are to filter, remove, replace any offenders. Deploying a dual band plugin module from lamp linc / relay on all four corners of the home on each floor is my best practice and helps bridge RF communication and ensures bridging of the Insteon mesh network. NOTE: No amount of bridging / coupling will supersede the need to identify and remove / replace a noise maker / signal suckers in the home. Important item to note is any lighting load besides a standard incandescent bulb can and will cause issues if not tested. Most common issues seen and heard are lights turn on fine but don't turn off or slow to respond. Newer switches will actually blink red to show there is a comm issue at play. Lights that flicker, blink, hum, buzz, pulse should be tested thoroughly. Not all LED bulbs play nicely with Insteon and only two pieces of hardware are stated as supporting LED loads which are the ILL / Ballast Linc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. Yes 2. Yes - See item 3 3. Your options are to use Node Link with a node server running 5.X.X code. The other option is to purchase the Brultech Dash Box and send State Variables to the ISY Series Controller. Both methods are a compromise when compared to a direct connection via ZigBee. For the average user this may not be an issue though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah at 1287 feet in the air there's a few things you better get right from the onset. Make sure you took a pee and number 2, eat something hardy, ensure your tool audit is on spec and everything is on hand for parts, radio and cell is fully charged and working, pace yourself going up, never look at passing clouds, clip & go every rung, take a break when ever you need to, stay focused on the decent.

Thanks for the link it was a great read. In my part of the world (Canada) I've never heard of a *Bomb Cyclone* ever being coined?!? We just accept its cold and go along with life given its cold *Winter* for all of us! This was captured by my guardian security alarm system a few weeks back. This was the wind chill at the time which remained for more than seven days. Many people can't relate or appreciate what -40 ~ -50'C northern wind chill will do to a human body. While I was on site working on a communication tower my *Follow Me* system tracked the local weather as being this: That's -35'C before the wind and with the wind chill its -47'C. Here is one of my systems which tracks all of the homes environmental's from energy, water, gas, weather, etc. It was so cold one day the one application which tracks my location stopped at -29'C. I'm located in that red circle which if you look at the legend is the coldest part of the region. As noted early on I was outside for more than 12 hours working on a communications tower while it was -35'C before the wind chill of -50'C. I had to remove some fasteners with a standard claw hammer and the two claws snapped clean off in the cold. This image is of the dead blow hammer I had on hand which after 12 hours in the cold exploded and all I had left was the handle. I was really lucky my safety glasses were on because several pieces grazed my left eyebrow.

You really lucked out as there were quite a few people in your region that waited more than five days for fuel to be delivered. Its obvious I am spoiled because our NG is in the ground so no worries about running out or delivery fails. Having said this my long term plans have been to incorporate different types of back up heating from electric, wood, pellets, to propane. I'm still very much in the planning stages of what I can depend upon which doesn't have so many dependencies / costs.

So what's the back story about the fuel oil not being delivered?!? [emoji848] Is that like what I read on the internet of some old lady who had similar services but the vendor simply didn't come out due to two broken down vehicles??

Thanks for confirming it's still 3 degrees while on battery. [emoji106] It's been a while since this topic came up so wanted the correct information for others to have if they decide to follow suite. NOTE: Please ensure you understand the operating temperature of the TSTAT. Even the label should be taken with a grain of salt as I have seen others operating in the written spec of (cold) temperatures and the unit didn't operate as expected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Time permitting if it does or doesn't work please do list up the hardware production date and firmware indicates by the ISY Series Controller. Also keep in mind a solid Insteon RF mesh must be present at all times. I would encourage you to have a fail over method to determine the environmentals in and around the home which does not rely on the Insteon protocol. There are many other solutions like 1-Wire, 3rd party RF CAO tags, Z-Wave, etc which many use to integrate with the controller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be firmware specific but I recall if the TSTAT was on batteries the temp had to change 3 degrees, no?!? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL [emoji23] Those look like the Arrow / Cooper branded outlets. Been a while since I seen those. [emoji106][emoji13] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk