Teken

^ Spot On . . . Of the hundreds of installs that I have been involved in only a hand full required any filters. Those that did needed only a couple shared filters via power strip. As noted up top this is easy accomplished when a home is in the design and building stage. - Dedicated outlet / circuit for known noise makers - signal suckers: Fridge, Freezer, Sump, HVAC, etc - Dedicated outlet / circuit for the 2413S PLM - Purchase and test all lighting loads; CFL, LED, Magnetic Ballest, Florescent with the Insteon hardware. - Wiring noise makers / signal suckers on opposing electrical leg and closest to service feed. - Install a hardwired phase coupler at the service panel.

Line noise has been present since electricity was invented. Anyone who has used X-10 (The God Father) of power line home automation is very aware how power line noise can impact their systems. Anyone who uses power line from X-10, UPB, Insteon, Power Over Ethernet, etc is aware of the very same. The long term solution is to identify all noise makers / signal suckers and remove, replace, filter, isolate.

1. Seen this all the time in various degrees. 2. From experience you would see similar results with other brands and dimmers but not a relay. 3. Replace all of the noise makers in the home. 4. Filter Linc is a 50/50 chance so don't bet the bank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of budget do you have in mind to accomplish this task?!?

Don't have a lot of time to write. So one key thing about any 3rd party motion flood light is to ensure it's NOT using dual bright technology. If so it's not compatible without gutting the entire unit. At that point you might as well have bought the correct one or built one yourself! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Lip, Just as a reminder once you reboot the controller any node States will be lost until a new one arrives. Simply toggle the sensor(s) to see and confirm in the AC. Doing this also should fire off a email to you that a leak has been detected and it should indicate a 9. If doing the above does NOT result in a change of state. Is your 2413S PLM fast approaching the 2 year mark? If so it may be time to repair / replace that device. You can test this out generally speaking by observing the side LED. If it's dark or dimly lit that may be a sign. If you run the link table count and it returns something crazy stupid like 10 links when you have say 25~45 devices etc. You may in the interim complete a PLM Restore to see if device status is seen. Lastly, keep in mind a lack of status can also be caused by a noise maker / signal sucker being present. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Lip, Just some basic's to keep in mind so bare with me. - LED State: There have been several iterations of *firmware* for the leak sensor. As such the behavior is a little different for each. Older hardware would flash once if water was detected. Newer hardware the LED pulses every X seconds. - Node State: Older hardware if the presence of water disappeared the sensor would toggle from wet to dry automatically. Newer hardware if a leak is detected the wet to dry node can only be reset by pressing the white set button. - Heart beat: Normally once you press on the set button the device will send a heart beat message to controller. Keep in mind this assumes the battery is still OK. You're in fact within range of the nearest dual band device in the home. If you watch the AC (Admin Console) and toggle the set button you should see each node from wet to dry turn on / off. Afterwards you should see the heart beat node turn on. If it doesn't sometimes the device needs to be hard reset and restored using the AC. - Heart Beat Update: If your leak sensor program is fully operational the heart beat should report back in 24 hours. - Sometimes the status of nodes is not accurately reflected because the AC is not fully operational. Common causes is the UI & Firmware do not match so check that the two do. Ensure you're using the latest 4.6.2 firmware. Always use the latest java software and ensure you clear the cache and select all option box's when you upgrade. If all of the above has been done reboot the controller and try again.

101 : Means you have pending writes. Simply right mouse click and write to each device one at a time until complete. Keep in mind you need to place each one into programming mode.

If you look at the weather module what does it say for the last update time? Also is the station you selected correct (the same as before?) Try another station and see what happens ~ also the weather module has been changed to update every 30 minutes from 5. NOTE: There were changes last year where the controller had to be updated to use the latest firmware. So ensure you're using the latest official release along with the correct Admin Console.

Nobody has asked so I will . . . Does the low battery alert not come in or operate as expected??

Hi Chuck, I'll need to pay more attention to the programs to see if there were any unknown or unrecognized yada yada!

The Insteon Open-Close sensor is one of those possible solutions. Has internal I/O jack to install external wiring which you can then insert into the pool. You can mount the Open-Close sensor where ever you like for best range and placement. That can't easily be done with the Insteon Leak Sensor . . .

I intended to ask this question a few months ago but got squirreled and forgot. In the latest 5.X.X Alpha release I noticed folders had changed to a yellow color?!?! In the past I had also inquired about what appears to be a turquoise blue / green color. At the time no one had any insight as to what that color meant until I believe Chris at UDI noted it meant something which I don't recall. So if anyone knows what the yellow color means please do let me know:

You would be better off using the open - close (Trigger Linc) module as it has internal I/O contacts to allow external wiring to be used. I have been doing this for years with great results and its a easy deployment. The Leak Sensor has no provisions to attach external wiring unless you decide to solder to the bottom nickel round feet. RE: Transmit -> The sensor will transmit once its wet and once it becomes dry. Since the Open - Close sensor indicates (Open-Close) you can simply rename them in the AC to reflect wet vs dry.

In the AC at the top right you select purchase modules and it will bring you to a sales website to purchase what ever you need.

Hi Randy, I left my review for the most awesome skill you have provided all of us . . . Cheers!!!

We both got it wrong its io_guy

That's so awesome ~ BTW its i/o guy.

Did anyone have the large Echo begin to speak out of no where and announce this new feature? Mine did last week and has been doing the bee boop sound. Yet the smaller Dots are still speaking?!?! I won't lie the Alexa OK has grown on me and it feels odd hearing and seeing the flash and bee boop.

Hi Tom Robertson, The ISY Series Controller is currently integrated using my Brultech Dash Box (DB) & Green Eye Monitor (GEM). The GEM accepts the water pulse from the Water Hero system directly via twin (dual pairs) of (22 AWG) copper cable. In turn, that water flow pulse data is relayed to the Dash Box which stores all of the consumption and historic metrics for later review. The DB sends the same water metrics via State Variables to the ISY Series Controller via REST. The ISY Series Controller is configured with many programs which monitor the current, low, high values. Other programs take those low, high values and help me identify water signatures: Bath, Clothes Washer, Dishwasher, Hand Washing, Pee vs Poo Flushing. The Water Hero team continues to work toward offering a open API for their system. There isn't a ETA on that release as of yet as the team is working toward other immediate goals. The Water Hero system offers a cloud hosted service which allows a person to view their water consumption, settings, etc from any computer system. They have also released a Android / iOS smart application which also allows the same control, management, and historic review, and control for home & away. I would encourage you to reach out to the Water Hero team and inquire about when the open API will be public ready for consumer use for the ISY Series Controller. Please let me know if you require more insight or clarification. Cheers!

I pushed 75 feet in one install using high quality (23 AWG) shielded CAT-7 Ethernet cable no issues so far.

Really depends upon the gas meter you have if your city supports RF metering you may have a choice. If the meter supports a pulse output that's another. If the meter has a optical reader that's another possible choice. For the fire pit I would consider a gas approved flow meter inserted inline at the outlet.

One thing I can tell you with 100% certainty you will NEVER be able to sell a house that is mis-wired properly or expected sale price. Two houses I was part of the HA integration the home owner ran home runs for lots of common switches in hopes of a cleaner look on the walls. Fast forward four years later he needed to move due to work requirements. His home sat on the market for 16 months. Had to take a major hit because people were asking where the hell are all the switches?!?! Only a freaking moron would wire a house with no local wiring for the specific loads. Unless you plan on dying in your home like I do don't even think about wiring your home in a none standard way because it will drop the sale price by 30~45%!

Hi RK, You can certainly try your hand at some rechargeable A123 batteries in place of the primary cells. I know they are expensive so investing into rechargeable's may pan out over the long run in terms of ROI. Having said this, if you have the ability to wire a USB cord in that area that is the route I would take. The added benefit is the device will now act like a dual band repeater when powered this way. One thing I did was place a few of these devices on a small UPS so if power was ever lost the sensor state would not be in the ISY Series Controller.

Plug the sensor using the Micro USB and report back if it behaves the same using this alternate power source. If it does it may be defective and its time to submit a RMA and get another one via cross dock with Smarthome.