ScottAvery

What are you using the motionCounters for? Something in another set of programs? Why do you set to 20c at 5am and back to 16 at 5:55? Can you describe without code what you want to have happen when the temp changes manually? Are you trying to catch people fiddling with temp or trying to allow and persist a manual change beyond the normal time out?

Well the one monkey in the wrench is changing the device status directly through mobilinc, which would need to be changed to modifying a variable or tempUp/TempDown programs. That said, I don't follow the logic of the usage. Where are the motion detectors? Do they see someone at the thermostat? If you are home and there is motion between 6 and 9 the temp goes from 20 to 21, then after an hour it drops to 16. If there was no motion it would stay 20 all day. If someone manually changes it, it only stays changed for 30 minutes? Then goes back to what? What if the change was by mobilinc and there had been no motion? I think the key here will be modifying the motion detector responses to be more complex.

I don't quite get it -- it seems to me you have the tools here: 1) You know when the thermostat changes by using the If X or if Not X 2) You CAN know when anything OTHER than the T-Stat changes the setting because each of those other methods can be tracked or modified to self-report as the actions involve a program or scene that you can either reprogram or watch externally. What you may need is an intermediary for those other options, like a program for up, and a program for down, or a variable that represents current set point and programed responses to a change to said variable. 3) Any status change that is not made by another method must be a tstat button press.

This problem can be solved, but may require nested programs or a variable. Provide a detailed description of the behavior desired.

I don't think Stu was trying to counter asbril's point, but to clarify, with Zwave there are dedicated add-on 3-Way switches (only $20) that cannot handle a load. They just send a signal to the main switch which does carry the load, so you could in such an instance repurpose a traveler to neutral. Smarthome used to sell such a switch in their Insteon 2-wire kits. Wish they would bring them back! two points though: 1) The OP, however, appears to be using Insteon, and Insteon doesn't require any travelers at all for the second switch - just line and neutral. 2) There still doesn't appear to be a neutral at the boxes due to the circuit design starting at the fixture.

First thing to look at: In the GUI top menu click Help / About and see if your GUI is 4.6.2

Also, have you added any appliances lately, or might you have a major appliance like a fridge that is giving you trouble and might be spiking noise on the wiring? Do you have write-pending symbols next to any devices in the GUI?

Compare link tables in the devices and the PLM by right clicking on one of the troublesome devices in the ISY admin console. I believe the devices have to update to know the address of the new PLM to be able to send status updates and you may have failures on those updates.

Why are you testing the condition of that switch anyway? My guess is that switch device is in the scene being turned on. If so, it is unnecessary to test if it is off. Delete that line, because if it is already on, turning on the scene won't change anything (unless for some reason the scene sets a different on level brightness than the light may be and you wish to preserve it, in which case follow the suggestion above for two programs).

musicmatters, as dbuss suggests, please clarify what you mean by "big bundle". Are there additional wires in the boxes not connected to your light circuit? If there are no other wires in these boxes at all then Stu's answer is correct. You can confirm it by looking under the light fixture where you will likely find two 2-conductor wires (or more if they made junctions there) and the power source for this circuit is starting at the fixture. An option to correct it is to add this light to a different circuit by connecting power to one of the switch boxes from a nearby outlet, if you are so lucky to have one within a couple of feet, on either side of the wall. I have had to knock out boxes and replace with an Old Work box to get access to power in the wall. What you can't do is just try to steal neutral from another circuit as that would risk overpowering the neutral and burning it out - switch the circuit entirely. If you do, you would cap off the original power source in the fixture. Also, stop connecting stuff to load until you know what is on those wires. Draw yourself a picture. The load is only going to connect to one of the 2-conductor wires in the box with a 2 and 3, but you probably want to see what is behind the fixture to know which one. edit: If Stu's assumption is correct on the whites being line from fixture, then load would be the black, as he stated.

That said, I did buy 4 of the single button mini remotes during the last holiday sale to use in locations where there is no box and I don't want to cut a hole in the wall.

I agree with Larry that using a wired dimmer is the right move, and yes you can have the additional ones with no load for multi-way arrangements. If you happen to have multiple switches in one of the locations I would put the load on the switch that does not have a competing dimmer in the same box because multiple dimmers side by side reduce the load capacity. The hardwired switch is much, much more convenient for both operation and maintenance: remotes require removal to charge and all wireless battery-operated devices have to be manually activated to program them, and they can time out. It is trivial to connect one on a box where there was a switch going to an outlet. If there is no power at the switch box location, you just connect power at the outlet end. Buy dimmers in 5 packs when on sale, like cyber Monday, which has lately been 2% cheaper than black friday.

Yeah, a had thought about a switch as well since I have piles of them, and mounting it to a board with a long terminal block so I could do 10 at a time. A couple 5 connector Wagos would make it really easy to do 4, but for a 1 minute operation I could get by with some sort of spring clip instead of a locking lever.

Thanks, I found the Wago name finally after going through a bunch of knock-off results and it triggered my memory. Searched here and found a nice HATE thread on non-twist-cap terminators: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22113-anyone-use-these-sort-of-wire-connectors-before/?hl=wago Do you use these in your electrical boxes or just for your bench?

Thanks for the advice. One thing I will have to check before I wipe is if I have any programs I want to keep. Most of them are timers or listeners for double taps or the like, but I think there may be some thermostat/fan control items to copy. Photos of the backs of devices makes sense, although a spreadsheet may be more practical for future use. I'm not quite organized enough to ever take advantage of the photos. I assume you meant to write down the Insteon firmware version of each device rather than the ISY version. When you say "Notes section", do you mean in the notes field within the ISY interface or in a user manual file? I do have a cable to do bench installs of the devices before wiring them in, but I don't have those fancy lever lock terminal blocks. I have not found a cost effective source for them. It was probably one of your threads long ago where I first saw them. What name should I search for to find them in bulk?

I have moved to a new house and not brought any of my original devices with me other than a few plug-in modules. I am wondering what would be the best way to start the new install. I have a 994i IR Pro to which I added the Zwave module and it is subscribed to the UDI Portal service. It was a first generation 994i from when 99i was still available - when I added the Zwave module I had to change the case for the wiring to fit. Has there been a hardware revision that might lead me to want to buy a new one instead? If not, I am wondering how I wipe it and start fresh. Concerns: What is the correct procedure to reset? What settings do I want to write down and reenter? (I have backups, just in case) What parts of portal and Amazon configuration procedures do I need to repeat? Anything to look out for? The new house has over 90 switches, so I will not be replacing them all, but as the days are growing shorter I am anxious not to come home to a dark house and want to get a few installed as soon as possible.

Makes sense, everything in Hue would be considered a light already.

I suspect the lack of live status may be related to the fact that many of their partner smarthome companies may not have that capability due to zwave patent issues or their own short sightedness. They don't seem to support features that are not near universal. I have assumed this is the reason they have ignored the need to identify which echo device received a given voice call in the protocol, considering most of the partner systems cannot use conditional logic. I also notice the Insteon logo is no longer featured on the Alexa/Echo smarthome pages.

I assumed spatial awareness was going to be based on the microphone hearing activity, not Alexa being addressed by voice. What is their definition of Spatial Awareness?

Then only put that light in the group. Or put a scene in the group and change the members of the scene in ISY without having to fiddle with the Echo grouping ever again.

So far Amazon has not made any effort to offer any location or Alexa source identification information through the API.

What Amazon said on this topic was that they will let you group your echos into Amazon groups with smarthome devices, which will effectively define what is in that room. This is why we were discussing groups in this thread at all and why I asked if Amazon would ever pass it on to us through the API instead of keeping the information locked up in their ecosystem. Their solution is you create a group (In Amazon's app) for each room that has an echo and put the devices (Or scene) you would want to respond to the local call of "Alexa turn on/off the lights" I would assume they will add capability to add media devices to rooms in a similar fashion. So we can potentially steal the info by putting a program or variable in the group with the echo in Amazon, but that will be a clugey workaround. (See post # 13 above) https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22604-what-is-live-update-and-smart-home-skill-v3/?p=221277

This is great, but it keeps the information inside Amazon's environment. I would still love to see them pass the device identifier information to 3rd party systems through the API. We could group each echo with a program or variable, I suppose, but if they can only be grouped once, you'd lose the native light control option. I look forward to tinkering.

Were there going to be a future for Insteon, they would have commited to giving Amazon free chips to put in the Echo's just to get the protocol out among the masses. Amazon is going to sell a lot of Zigbee simply by having the devices linked on the Echo page. Zwave will also suffer. I only have Zwave and Insteon control in my network, since i can only have one add-on in my ISY. Not sure if having access to Zigbee through an Echo would be useful.

They appear to have chosen ZigBee for their built-in smart hub radio. Can't be good for Insteon in the long run.