arw01

Would you mind taking it way out in the back yard and seeing how far away it works I've wanted some sort of keypad for the shop and a way to check and lock it from in the house..

Hear hear Micheal. Rock solid is good too. And I like, that if I take a trip, it is still running when I get home!

Yep, had to do the exact thing last night. Amazes me how when deleting it from all the devices I was at hop 0 a lot and had to rewrite to devices for a while over and over. Then when i added it on, it was almost all hop 2! No one was running around the house, only thing I can think of is maybe the laptop power cord fell out of the laptop. I keep adding devices, hopefully at some point I will have enough repeaters to stop the hop 0.

Do keep us posted if you try it. I am just sick of the Insteon motion sensors not reporting consistently and still have a LOT of hawkeyes in a box. Nice about them is they were not terribly pet sensitive either.

It's always great reading a good review and experience. I hope that someday the user interface for the ISY gets to the point that on a tablet or a phone my wife can manage the whole system. E.g. tell the system I want this light on at 5:30 every day without having to know what a if then else is, or variables, or control status etc. If I died tomorrow, I'm sure an electrician would be needed to put in dumb switches!

What Beta dual band KPL's? Been waiting for dual band KPL's for a while.

I observed in my own IO linc, that the reverse option does not survive power cycles. I opted to reverse my reed switches so as to not have a false positive.

I think part of the decision is what locks, thermostats etc are you thinking of using coming up? Zigbee is still pretty new, and a lot of products are yet on the production designers desk. There was a thread that mentioned a Yale lock that would support Zigbee in the fall, but currently there is not a lot of support in Zigbee. If you went Zwave, you could pick up a greeneye monitor and go the IP route, UDI mentioned they were planning on support for the greeneye. Alan

Xathros, could you post a screen shot or dozen? I've not bought any cameras yet, and chicken to go to 4.01 this moment. If you need, I can host the photos, just email me. Alan

post some level 3 event logs for people to digest. Michael said they only got the add support from the developer documentation, they did not get to test anything. The level 3 details should give the excellent people here on the forums something to digest and have you test various theories. Alan

Could the admin team edit oceans post to fix var to vars in the definition call?

So you are ok accessing mobilinc inside the house via wifi? And you have port forwarding 443 on your cable modem going where? (not necessary with the subscription mobiconnect) Then on your router you have port forwarding again going where for 443? (not necessary with the subscription mobiconect) I am two less layers than you, with a comcast actiontech modem and put a static internal ip on my isy so I could tell the modem any attempt to connect to 443 forwards to the isy. Works great outside the house, only issues I ever have is the Galaxy Nexus on Verizon is a few software updates behind and occasionally doesn't get the LTE connection or wifi hotspot back on for a few minutes. (known issue with the phone firmware) I would email wes at mobilinc with the isy connection id and have him check his server logs etc to see if the isy checks in like it is supposed to, etc.

The antenna could just be a trace on the board. Might explain why they don't get too far.

I may work on that for a while. Probably have to run a pigtail off the wirenuts to get an access point right next to this old keypad. It takes MANY tried to get it to take some programs. The hops bounce from 2 to 0 back to 2 all the time at it's spot. Have not figured out what's eating that signal.

You might also run a query insteon engine on that keypad. I've got a variety of different version of keypad, quite a few very old (spent an hour fighting with a v1.8 tonight because my hops bounce from 0 to 2 on that bugger with two other switches on the same wires 6" away! I've not seen that pop up on any that I have done.

A have put a couple ALL OFF buttons onto a pair of strategic keypads. Now I need to "program" them to be functional. What I did so far is leave them as toggle on and off (which leaves them lit when they really should be off) and have them run a program that turns off a number of scenes one at a time with about 1 second delay. This allows me to turn off the lights and get the rest of the kpl buttons to turn off too. But I do not think this is the "proper" way to do an all off. All off is not something you can search in the wiki because it's 3 letter words and those are too short. How do you guys handle your all off buttons?

They are actually just harbor freight dial indicator bases. Like $8.00 with the coupon and they let me adjust it just so. I could have bent some metal into shape eventually, but the whole thing was a year or so experiment. You could watch the log file with a tail -f going by to see the instant impact of the hot water tank or the dryer element going on and off. I figured a shower or a clothes dry session were $0.25 and $0.50 respectively. What shocked me was how much the house "leaks" with everything I could find to turn off except the device, the server and clocks, cable boxes etc. It was like 400 watts all the time, which at $0.096 a kWh, adds up to a pretty penny! When I just put my gas fired Takagi in my shop for radiant I almost bought one of these to monitor the exact amount of gas it used: Alan

Possibly, but then I have to give up my beloved tivo peanut! I have started down the slope of the Rasperry Pi, which has lirc support compiled right in now, and the Ugauanworks USB transceiver. I will be in it just a bit more than the IP2IR iTach unit, but it will allow me, with a little programming, to recognize the codes from any remote lirc can understand and ship them off to the ISY. I will start a thread on my journey, the Pi has been ordered from a US Supplier and I hear a couple of weeks is about normal to get it now. I was also curious about the Pi for some other io operations with a second pi, or a third. The vegetronix moisture sensor and a ada fruit or other board would let me know how exactly wet my soil is and my greenhouse and my raised boxes. I may even look for a bury freindly Ph meter as well.

There are some extensive posts on the raspberry pi site about getting lirc set up and using a simple ir receiver with the GPIO pins. From reading around, for less than the price of the ip2ir iTach, I can get my cake and eat it too with some home brew work. From there it should not be too difficult to get the pi and the ISY talking. Alan

None of mine are learning, I was hoping to get to remote nirvana! alan

Interesting stuff here fellows. A few years back I made up a device I found on the web that counted the spins of my power meter and put the pulse on a pin on the parrellel port of my linux server. I could resurrect that little beastie with the webcontrol board and this pulse count.

Yes, that is what I was after. I was doing a bit of reading about lirc, an open source remote receiver and transmitter software. I think a Raspberry pi may be capable of doing this with a standard IR receiver to USB and then using some perl script to send something to the ISY via the rest interface. I may order a "windows media" remote or something that will work with LIRC to "learn" remote codes. However, in my life, I am trying to strip down the complexities of the system in general and adding another piece of software/hardware as middlewere isn't ideal. I should probably ship back the IP2IR device, it's got some other interesting uses maybe with their composite video sensor I could tell that the TV was already on or the stereo was on perhaps. Thanks Michael

Thank you gentleman. In my area, it would be nice to have a WHF or at least a way for the furnace fan to pull outside air directly after it cools enough outside to not run the heat pump and instead just change over the hot inside air for the cold outside air. Currently I do that a bit with a kitchen fan and a bathroom fan and bedroom window fan to pull it in and the other two to push it out. Alan

check out Brultech EGM-1040 I think it is. You need a few ancilliary pieces to the puzzle, the module for the ISY, some way to talk to the Brultech (either zigbee radio installed into the iSY or their Zigbee to IP bridge). There were also a number of Zwave products I believe the ISY can use if you have the zwave radio instead of the zigbee radio.

Ok guys, what's a HRV? Related in any way to whole house fans?