lilyoyo1

Personally I would wire the house as a dummy house rather than use remote systems such as the din rail. While it can look cool at first glance, reselling can be more difficult as it may be too modern/techie for alot of people. My outlets are Cooper aspire (Eaton). All hardwired zwave devices repeat. My outlets do support beaming which allows you to use with things like door locks and other secure devices. I went with these over other brands because they feel like a high quality product. The plastic on the outlet is much higher quality than found on others such as he and leviton. The button to include/exclude as well as turn on/off also feels much better than other brands. The relay doesn't sound as clunky either. This is why I went with the Cooper over other brands. The attention to detail was much better. With that said, I don't believe they have a zwave plus version out yet. Since this is a new install, I would go with all zwave plus devices. GE has a zwave plus outlet which works well. While it's still short of Cooper's build quality it's not a bad device. I have 1 that I bought to test with and it works really well.

I've never had plm issues. While the plm I use in my house is new (the whole system is), my test ISY uses my old plm that was an old customer return for the plm issue that was given to me to test. Sometimes a person's home simply isn't a good fit for a particular technology

For my lighting loads, I went with all dimmers whether I dim or not. I like the uniformity around the house, the ramping effect, and the fact that there's no click when a light is turned on or off. I like using motion sensors to turn stuff off rather than on. I'm like you in that I don't want to constantly mess with the system and there are times I simply don't need/want the light on. I would recommend using in rooms that you don't frequent alot. That way if a light is left on, you don't find out days later.

I concur with Larryllix in regards to insteon for lighting. Besides familiarity which will help you in the long run, I'm not a fan of the popcorn effect that zwave has when turning on multiple devices. That coupled with the fact that you have to be concerned with different variations of switches from the mfg. (Even from the same one). The ease of use with insteon is much better. With that said, I do use zwave locks and sensors. I prefer their sensors over insteon's. To build out my mesh network, I've installed a bunch of zwave outlets throughout the house. While the range isn't as good as wall worts and it takes using more of them; I didn't want to be concerned with someone unplugging something and the ugliness that comes with wall worts. Zwave to insteon (as it would be the other way around) is slower. However my motion sensors only turn devices off so the delay is not noticed. In cases where they do turn on lights, it's used in area that you walk towards anyway so it's imperceptible as well. I do have a few of the motion sensor ll's. I have not had any trouble out of those so I can't complain.

I think its Isy based. When I removed one of my sensors that was once working with the ISY it no longer works now when I re-add it. The others still work but they were added a long time ago. If it was only the new sensor then it may be their firmware but since im having trouble with existing stuff it may be something in the code.

@Michel Kohanim did something change with the fibaro? I bought a new one and what others are experiencing I am too. I removed 1 from my system that was working and im encountering the same thing with that as well.

With the way UDI operates I would be highly surprised to see a new version released this year. They haven't even had a beta on one yet and 5.0 is still in beta as well (hard to imagine a brand new product shipping with beta software). Historically UDI has also given significant discounts to users who desire to upgrade their systems. So it can be cost effective a year or 2 down the road should you desire to have the latest unit. As Beninsteon said, most likely it'll be a unit with more memory, processing power, nodeserver capabilities all in one vs. needing a secondary device such as a raspberry pi and needing to do the work yourself.

Associations was designed for direct device to device communication. Unfortunately the popcorn effect is how the protocol is at this time rather than it being a controller issue. Hopefully this improves in future revisions of the protocol. There is an all on/off association which I don't know if the ISY supports (not all devices support this association either) which could potentially help. However I'm not sure it would work for multiple rooms since they would all use the same parameters.

Insteon is not zwave based so it cannot control zwave devices. UDI can't create something in a switch that the protocol does not support. The ISY simply acts as a middle man when insteon and zwave devices are in a scene together

I don't think it's the device itself. For whatever reason mine runs great (zwave sensors/insteon switches) most times and then sometimes I'm left wondering if something is going on with the system

I agree with what you've said. Zwave has come a long way over the years for lighting but they still fall short at what insteon excels at. All of my switches are insteon as I like the speed and functionality of them over zwave counterparts. I do have zwave outlets (insteon's as well) for repeating purposes. I use zwave door locks and sensors (I prefer them to insteon).

What is your exact setup in regards to controlling your devices? Is this scene triggered by a program or another device? What's the device? Is the device itself scene capable? The more information we have about your setup the better we can help

Are you trying to enable/disable programs? If so you'll follow the advice above and under then say disable program and the or else would be to enable the program.

The ISY doesn't have Bluetooth so it would not work as configured. Depending on your fan's specs, you could replace the module with a fanlinc and then add it to the isy

What's your setup? Is insteon or zwave a controller or responder? What are the devices in question? Are you controlling from the ISY itself, devices themselves or programs? The more details we have the better we can help

I thought so too until he said he would leave it constantly powered but as I type that I see what you're saying.

This sole proprietor stuff is so much b.s unless you plan on using multiple brands of switches in your home you'll still be in the same boat. At least come up with some other argument. Especially considering the ISY supports both protocols so that's a moot point anyway. With every bulb in my home being led and many other users on here using led bulbs with Insteon I do think that is an incorrect statement about them only being used with older lighting systems. Even at 7 year old technology as you claim, many basic features that insteon has that truly matter are still not available in zwave switches. Just because something looks shiny and new doesn't mean it's better. Zwave had improved over the last few years but they still have room for improvement. None of this matters however. The op asked for a cost effective solution. Pushing him towards a solution that will most likely cost him hundreds of dollars for a 60 dollar solution simply due to opinion doesn't make sense

I think that's how he said he was doing it just in a different way. If I'm wrong then it should be wired to constant hot like you state

That's how I would (and do) set up a fan

Here we go again. Year 7 of insteon's demise. I guess if something is said long enough eventually someone can say they were right. There is no perfect automation system. All have their own problems and risks. If you have many zwave devices right now and want control of the door then I would go with with Mwester and use the zwave option as I agree it is a better option. However, if status is all that your looking for and you're already using insteon, then the 2450 with a sensor such as https://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html would be the better option.

I misunderstood what you were asking. I was thinking it was an 8 button connected to the load. The A button can be assigned to whatever you want it to be. If you no longer want it controlling the garage load simply unlink it from the device that it's link to which control that load.

The A button is always connected to the load itself. You cannot change that. It will always trigger the light regardless of how programmed.

Personally I'd replace everything at once if the cost is a few hundred bucks and you're that concerned about things not working properly with the plm. For starters, zwave is a different beast all together. Depending on where things are going, you may need devices in places you're not planning on changing out just to get the signal to devices that may be close by. My next reason is time. If you're spending a considerable time troubleshooting to get things working right, the cost in dollars may be worthwhile to have a working and stable system rather than spending hours on end getting stuff to work only for it to be flakey

Factory reset the switch and test to see if it works after the factory reset. If it does, right click on the ISY and choose restore devices.

I agree about ease of replacement. Especially with multi-gang boxes. I used extra deep boxes when I built my house so I wouldn't have to fight so hard if/when I needed to do a swap.