lilyoyo1

Insteon isnt a resurrected x10. It is its own protocol in regards to how it communicates, frequency etc. Yes Insteon allows its devices to speak to x10 devices but should one do that, they lose the benefits of insteon. With that said, I do get your point in regards to decoupling. some devices have this ability. Hopefully one day in the future they will bring it to all of them. Personally, I prefer both. Its much easier to fix line noise than troubleshoot RF interference.

There is no perfect system. Your comment about Powerline and needing a filterlinc is akin to someone saying zwave is terrible because they need 2-3 devices just to communicate with a lock 20 feet away. Your issue isn't a problem with Insteon, the problem is insteon in your particular home. There are many many people using insteon without issues just like there are zwave people without issues. RF only is not perfect at all. Personally in this day and age, I think its foolhardy to go all in on any 1 protocol. Why do that when you can pick and choose the best technology for any particular situation.

As Paul stated, this is the umpteenth time insteon's demise has been bought up....in the meantime, I see more zwave companies going out of business. That's not an indictment of zwave just the resilience of insteon.

Actually the answer to both is yes. Steve Lee is known in many circles as an automation guru. Hell, he's personally helped me a lot when I first learned about insteon.

What are the keypads? Are they the newer dual-band kpls or older Powerline only? Factory reset them, then restore them from the isy

I agree with Dbuss in regards to zwave. Before that however, I'd move it back to your original location and see if things go back to normal. If it does, then put it back where you want it then do a network heal.

All of my rooms have individual scenes with the devices for that room built. I don't like how the buttons behave when using the non toggle modes so I created a program that will turn off each room's scene individually and then automatically turn off the backlight to the keypad that was pushed

You answered your own questions in your initial post. All that you stated is what you should do. The network module is part of your Isy unless you purchased it as part of a portal subscription. You could talk to the buyer and go over the ISY with them. Delete the scenes & programs that they don't want and leave the ones they do. This will save you and them unnecessary work with the ISY. I would save a backup file of that final configuration to a USB stick once completed for their benefit. That way they have a fix should they mess something up when they mess with it. If you're leaving your Echos behind (personally I wouldn't), then yes, remove them from your account. If it were me, I'd help them set up the Echos and Isy together so they could control whatever functions you've left behind for them.

Post the programs that you wrote to accomplish what you are trying to do. Instead of focusing on manually controlling the lock only, why not have them auto lock as well? In doing so, just in case you forget, dose off, etc., the system handles it for you. During the day/evening, my locks will automatically lock if the doors are closed after 45 minutes (just in case I'm bringing stuff in the house). After 9pm the will lock automatically after 10min. My goodnight programs will also lock the doors immediately. I have 3 locks with my setup except I have my keypads light up when any lock is unlocked. Turning the keypad button off will lock whatever is unlocked. Turning the button on (manually) will unlock my front door. To accomplish this, I did a few steps. I created a scene with all my kpl buttons in it as controllers. That way pushing any will turn them all on. My programs also references this scene so if the status of any door is unlocked all buttons light up together. If status door A, B, or C is not locked set scene door lock on Or else set scene door lock off While all of my locks are programmed to auto lock after a certain amount of time if the door is closed I can still manually override that with my keypads. If control kpl a, b, c, or d (etc) is switched off then lock locks a,b, & c. All of my doors have sensors in them that disables any locking programs. I do this because an open door that is locked is worthless. I have individual programs for each door to track open doors. If the door is open and I try to lock it via the keypad, it'll text me letting me know the door is open. Now that the ISY can do voice commands, when I have time, I may play around with it so that I can get a voice alert when that happens.

Did you do it to the individual devices in the scene itself?

At some point I say get an electrician. Is the money you save worth all the time taken? The guys on these forums are great but at some point, for your safety and piece of mind, you're better off letting a person on site who knows electricity (as previously mentioned) vs assuming things

That is incorrect. All insteon communication goes through the plm. The ISY only processes the information

Does your scenes work when triggered directly by your ISY? Is it the same devices failing to be triggered each time? What kind of devices are they? The more information given, the better help we can be

Most likely noise from the bulbs are the culprit

I agree with Larryllix except for me personally, I don't leave nor show complex parts. I learned that lesson after I sold my first house with Insteon back in the houselinc days. When I sold my last house, I only showed them scene controlled items. I avoided discussing anything to do with programs and the ISY. While this next piece of advice doesn't help you now, one thing I learned and a practice that I still follow is to make a couple of backups when I first get started. The first order of business is to add all the devices into the ISY and name them. Once done I create a backup of it and call it my clean slate. That way if I ever want/need to factory reset whole system I can easily start over without having to add everything back to it. My next backup consists of critical links such as multi way switches and switch controlled outlets. For example, I use line voltage strip lights for my ceilings in my dining room and bedroom closets. These lights are controlled by plug in dimmers (hidden and for ease of replacement). While the ISY controls all of these, it's not needed for them to work. Same with my lamps. All of my lamps use hue bulbs. However they are plugged into controlled outlets. Should I sell my place, I can replace the bulbs with standard bulbs (or leave them) and it'll be a regular light controlled by my keypad. Simply running the backup that has the critical links stored allows me to quickly convert my home into a "smarthome ready" place without having to worry about programming issues etc.

There was one venstar model that did not require an adapter as it had the board built in. I believe it was the 2491t1e. Something of that nature

Is this your only insteon device? Did you power up your on and plug it into the ISY before powering up your Isy? What message are you getting? If you're using the device id, you don't have to hold down the set button

I agree. While a person may eventually figure things out, sometimes it's best to let an electrician do things.

I would've turned it on/off prior to adding it back to the ISY once it was factory reset to see if it was still talking to the other device. That way if there was a stray command somewhere it could help narrow down the culprit

When you factory reset the devices, did you test them prior to adding them back to the ISY?

If the lights are too expensive to try other alternatives, then the relay would be your only option along with manual control as you stated in the beginning.

Can you use a different transformer with them? I know some dimmable transformers work really well with Insteon such as magnitude

The firmware on that link was 5 versions ago. The hub automatically updates so the likelihood of someone still using the older firmware at this point is small

There are too many variables to say a definitive 30 foot range or 90 degrees. You can have walls in the way, furniture, vents, angle, battery life, etc. all effecting its performance. The information smarthome or anyone gives you will always be open ended due to differing environments. Now that you have a baseline on the motion sensors range, the best thing to do is try one to see how well it works in your environment.

Did you read the product page on the motion sensor on smarthome's website? The information your asking for is right there