lilyoyo1

Your ON level is set to be OFF which is why it turns off with on and on with the double tap

Where it says remove a zwave device

Wiki!!!! Who reads that? ?

You must exclude first as with all zwave devices

See very first post at the top of this page

I can see this being the main reasons why UDI would want to stay as far away as possible with official support. Is it really worth the cost for a 8 dollar device from a company that will probably be gone a year from now.

I don't think people are against wifi plugs on a small scale. Most are considering the avg consumer using standard routers at scale. Most of us that frequent this forum aren't the avg person with avg things in our home. We understand the risks and how to mitigate it to a certain degree. The avg person however doesn't. Then, when they have issues, it becomes at&t, Cox, or Spectrum's fault. I use 1 Belkin for the same reason as you and it serves it's purpose.

Firmware and UI must match. Clear your Java cache

I'm with you on that one. That's a large part of why I can't fully invest in zwave outside of specific use cases

The device must be put into linking mode. If memory serves correct, holding one of the buttons down for 10 seconds will put it into linking mode. Then set up your scene. As stated above me, if you have the isy pro, turn off battery writes, update your scenes, put remote into linking mode, then turn on writes and choose write updates

That's true. It will help to a certain degree. Insteon devices react faster because the signal is processed locally vs through a controller. As long as a controller is the middle man, speed will always be an issue. I hope I'm wrong but I feel like they're making a car that goes 150 now go 250mph. However, there's still a speed bump (controller) in the road.

I wouldn't be frustrated. With a house full of zwave, there really isn't a benefit after 500 since most of 700 addresses those with poor mesh networks. The additional battery life applies to battery operated devices which would still apply should you add any.

From my experience, companies that allow both have different methods for including a device as S2 and non S2. I'd ask if they have separate procedures for what you're trying to do.

My model is to dedicate time to knowing my business and products I'm using. This means keeping up with what is going on, how stuff works (or doesn't), and what works best for a particular situation. That way when I offer something to a client, I can under promise and over deliver every time. Would I use 5.2 right now in an install? No. I haven't tested it nor ran it long enough in my own home to do so. At the same time I would do the same with C4 as well. Just because something says "official" doesn't mean it's bug free.

If you're using the isy to watch over machines worth millions is a mistake and a half. There are much much much better alternatives out there. Much more costly yes but when you're talking about millions it's worth the investment. The isy was meant for homes and to a certain degree small office type situations not industrial or critical situations. Not everyone on here is a hobbyist. For some of us, we do install the system as a low cost alternative for our customers as we realize not everyone has 60k laying around to simply turn off lights. This allows us to expand our clientele to people who otherwise may not be able to afford or desire to pay what it would cost for something else. It's still in beta because of keeping everyone on the old setup and charging people for a new system (once released), they are giving their end users a chance to take advantage of their future system (for free) during the development process.

I've been using 5.0 in homes (where I went with isy) since 5.0.8 without any issues. Some of those systems are still on the older firmwares (I don't upgrade unless it's needed for something specific or I'm on location for something else) People come on forums when they need help not when everything is running perfectly which is why you'll see the forums filled with issues. It's just the nature of the beast. The good thing is all of those people received help so you have a point of reference before upgrading and should you run into issues. That also goes to show that many more didn't have problems....at least none that weren't expected due to previous research.

Being that your stuff is behind an equipment rack and inside an electrical cabinet it's no wonder zwave has been a pain. It's rf only so you probably have a weak signal to/from the isy. Your zwave firmware can also tell you what you have as 4.55 is for 300 and 6 something is for the 500 series chip. For the most part there is always a beta when it comes to the isy. Not every release (back in the 3.0 and 4.0) days is official. Sometimes releases are made (beta) just to update the device database. There are quite a few posts detailing others experienced with upgrading the isy and issues theyve come across. This can be found in on the beta subforum as well. The main thing is backup your isy and zwave board (zwave is a separate backup) and have a copy of your programs to reference just in case they need to be re-saved or edited (will be in yellow)

I'm assuming you DID NOT read the posts because it WAS answered. 1) The response said the 300 board has a blue light sticking out of the isy and the 500 does not. 2, 3, &4) has been answered multiple times on page 2 and 3.

Was it turned on

Your locks are not zwave plus so they don't have any of the benefits of plus which means they need to be close to the isy in order to add

It's only advantageous if you need what it offers. Outside of that you have nothing to gain by upgrading

They should be added to the isy as part of a scene. When setting up in the portal, add the scene itself but add it as a light and not a scene

You're welcome it's pretty simple. Make a back up of the zwave board (it's separate from the isy back up). Then restore it to the new one https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Z-Wave_500_Series_Beta The transfer I believe was to update the zwave board itself (if memory is correct)

Thats ok. I was in your shoes when zwave first came out. I was lucky enough to meet one of the developers of zwave many years ago at a trade show and pick his brain. Ive also done countless installs over the years which helped me learn more. There are some here who still know much more than I such as @simplextech. Im assuming its battery powered. If thats the case it doesnt matter since nothing gets routed through it. If its hardwired, anything thats using it for routing would not take advantage of plus (just because its closest doesnt mean its part of a device's route). With that said, a strong mesh still beats the extra range you get from plus. If you have a strong mesh, all of it is a moot point. The extra range may help someone who has minimal use for zwave and keep them from needing additional devices. Some of the device specific features such as NWI, additional battery life, etc. would still benefit however.

I actually just thought of something. You may be able to add that switch to alexa as a motion detector. Then set a routine that causes the outlet to turn on. I haven't tried it to be certain but that may work