lilyoyo1

There's something interfering with the communication during the linking process. I'd make a jumper, and try looking from a different location

Factory reset the keypad and try again. Also make sure your firmware and UI are the same and up to date

Either way could work. Since all of them would need to be at the same level for the light to stay on, should any device change the light would turn off.

Hopefully it works

Under the then, say: Turn lamp on enable Monday program turn lamp off. See if that enables your monday program

Just to make sure I'm understanding properly, It only activates when clicking another program prior to checking it to see if its enabled? Before my next thought; do you have an extra device you can use to test an idea?

To expand on what Techman said, you would need to add every device to your program's if statement. For example: If status kitchen 1 is not 60% And status kitchen 2 is not 60% And status kitchen 3 is not 60% Then set kpl button C off

I assume that you are running the then clause of your program which is why it turns green. I highly doubt it will run. Most likely you will need to create another program which enables those programs in the then clause

It's harder to get a device linked than it is for 2 devices to simply talk to one another. During the linking process, a device on sends out it's information once. When 2 devices are talking, you have 3 chances for a signal to get through. Since your device was already linked it is possible that it could overcome any issues that plagued the first device. It's for that reason (and others), I link all my devices prior to install. This includes zwave. With that said, I would factory reset once more just to ensure proper reset and hook it to your test bench to link.

That message generally means there's a communication issue. The switch itself is most likely fine

Factory reset the device then try.

Even if it was something big like a panel issue, the smaller things could still be part of the problem. It's cheaper to solve the micro problems than trying to fix a major problem that may or may not be there.

Every environment is different which is why he doesn't have issues. Wall worts may not be the culprit. When people give tips they start with the most likely and go from there. It could be a single wall wort. Maybe 2 or 3. Maybe it's something else entirely like a wiring issue. Now that you've isolated the problem to the circuit, you simply go a little bit further to find the actual culprit.

The funny thing with noise is how it can effect things. You can have the exact same switches side by side and one has issues while the other doesn't. I wouldn't say they are inferior as I've seen many more issues in togglelincs than in the kpls and 2477d's. This is one reason why I wouldn't tell someone to switch from insteon to zwave or vice versa. Using one or the other doesn't guarantee a trouble free system. Most likely you don't have a lot of things causing issues. Since you've isolated what room is causing the problem, I would start with unplugging things there until you find the culprit. Once found, put a filter on it.

I've never had that issue personally. I would factory reset the device, put into linking mode and then restore the device using the ISY admin console

Yes, that one. Inside, I use zwave sensors because they look better in my opinion

My outdoor sensors are insteon sensors. I haven't had any issues here in NC with our storms here.

When I built my house, I used a standard flood light with an inlinelinc dimmer and separate motion sensor with it. I went this way because it allows me to disconnect the sensor from the light for times when I don't want the motion sensor to kick in. For example, my entertainment scene turns on the flood lights so people can clearly see the all times. Had I done it with a hardwired sensor, once tripped, the sensor would override the settings and turn the lights off. By keeping them separate, I am able to control the lights separately without the motion sensor kicking in. Late at night when I want the sensor to be used, then the program activates allowing motion lights. I used a dimmer because I knew I would be using really bright bulbs. This allows me to dim them for normal use and full blast when on the motion. I also prefer the ramping effect of a dimmer vs. a light simply turning on.

I really couldn't say what zwave switches are scene capable as I use insteon switches and Zwave sensors. The copper aspire line as well as some leviton switches more than likely are. I believe the new GE. Zwave plus switches are also. Zwave can control insteon as I have a few directly linked to insteon switches via scenes so I can confirm that on some level support for both ways.

That confirms it. It's sending it's status. Not the command itself.

I looked closer at what you purchased. Looks like that one isn't scene capable which means it can't be a controller. Only a responder. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it but generally scene capable devices send commands.

If the ISY changes instantly then it does send it.

Does that switch support instant status? Another thing to check is to make sure that it is a controller in your scene

My vacation mode on the ISY does this with my router. It automatically reboots it once a day. My ISY is also on an outlet that I reboot with my test hub should it ever be needed.

As Larryllix stated, factory reset your devices. You can work on 1 room at a time and not have to worry about losing any functionality as you progress.