EricK

If time is from sunrise + 30 min. to sunset - 30 min (same day) Then. Set scene 'back flood lights' off. You have to set the scene off, not just the device (flood light controller) that controls the load. You can add "and flood light controller status is on" to the if. I don't mind the extra insteon traffic generated by sending a scene off command for a scene that is already off.

I think a limitation to home automation is the consumer. The average person cannot change out a light switch nor do they want to pay someone to come to their home to do so. I could have a control 4 system but I like the diy aspect of insteon. I don't want to have to rely on a "guy". I dont mind buying all of my equipment from a single vendor, smarthome, since I know the devices are compatible, and they have stood by their products. So I don't think every home will have smart switches like they do a tablet or pc any time soon.

How about think of this another way. Seems like you have two Kpl buttons and then a third device that is connected to the pump (switchlinc I presume). Create a scene 'hot water' with all three devices as controllers. Then a program: If status hot water switchlinc is on Then Wait 15 minutes Set scene 'hot water off' If you want the pump to go on longer than 15 minutes you would have to hit a button to turn the scene off, then again to turn it on and trigger the program. Eric

Raydoc, can you describe in more detail what kind of equipment you are using. What type of sensor is it that currently monitors the pump. You could use a float switch connected to an io linc to monitor if the water level is high. This would be set higher than the water level that triggers the pump, this way you know you are losing ground. If you also had an io linc connected to the pump then you could get have a message sent if both the float switch and pump are on. The leak sensor programs rely on the heartbeat signal that is sent out by the leak sensors. Io linc do not have a heartbeat. I use the leak sensors and also have a float switch in the koi pond. Eric

I think you have to use adjust scene to get the results you want. If you use a program, when you turn the switch on the light will go to whatever on level you have set for the scene that the switchlinc is a controller for. So the light may go on 100%. The program will then run and the light will adjust based upon the program. Will slowly go from 100 to 80, not the response you want.

I have ordered custom buttons many times and have 4 bags of the 50 button pack. (Advice, print out the picture of the list of buttons for the 50 button pack that is on the prodcut page. Each time you use a button, cross it off the list.) Unfortunately one night after spending weeks compiling a list of 8 buttons, I accidentally ordered lowercase buttons. Big mistake, had to re-order. The custom buttons do look a little different than the buttons that come with the KLP. I think they are close in color to the 50 button pack buttons. I just set up the network module to control a TV from a KPL, POWER ON/OFF and PLAY/PAUSE. I dont need any other buttons right now so I went with the DIY approach. Nail polish remover to remove the lettering from the kpl buttons that come with the keypad. Printed the text on Avery clear labels, I don't recall the correct font and size. Cut them out and put them on the buttons, covered with a small piece of scotch tape. One of them is not crooked, but a little off center to the right, but both look very good.

TO, this is how scenes work. When you add a device as a controller of a scene it is also a responder of the scene. So any controller can turn the scene on or off and All responders obviously respond to the scene. A device can only be the controller of one scene. When you want to turn on all devices of the scene, you have to turn on the scene, not just one of the individual scene members which is what was stumping the OP.

Hi, I just read this thread and it seems what you want is simple and should be able to be accomplished with scenes. You have a scene with the KPL button and and lamplinc dimmer (I think that is the device) as both controllers and responders of a scene, "Living Room Lamp". Anytime you want the lamp on, even with a timer, make sure you turn on that scene, not the device itself. By turning on the scene, both responders, the KPL button and the dimmer will turn on. The KPL button will then reflect the status of the scene. If you just turn on the dimmer, the KPL button does not know it. Ex: If time is sunset to 3AM next day Then set scene 'living Room lamp' On Else set scene 'Living Room Lamp" Off Now, sometimes things do not behave like you expect them to. If you needed what I call a "correction program" for the KPL button to show the lamp status then this is what I would do. Create a scene called 'KPL button Living Room Lamp' and set the KPL button as a responder of the scene. No other devices are needed in the scene. Then write the program. If Status 'Living Room Lamp' is not Off Then Set Scene 'KPL button Living Room Lamp' On Else Set Scene 'KPL button Living Room Lamp' Off I hope this helps to clarify things. Eric

Stu, we recycle as well. But I am sure bad devices that are returned to smarthome go in the trash.

15 was a gues as to what market value would be for a kpl 7 year warranty. It would have to be at least 10. $2 would be a no brainier. With an appliance a guy can come out to replace abcontrol board. A bad insteon device probably just goes in the trash.

Ed, You have to set the responder levels for each controller. When you click on the scene name the responder levels shown are for using the isy as the controller. If you click on one of the red device names in the scene that shows responder levels for that controller. There is a copy attributes box to use the responder levels set for the isy. Eric

Just bought an iPad Air, $400, apple care was 100 to extend the warranty out to two years. Does not include the 50 deductible. I passed this time. Extended warranties are money makers for the manufacturers and third parties. Percentage wise they are a very expensive for the consumer, unless of course you need it. When a three year old Kpl crapped out I was not happy. However, I don't think I would have paid the extra 15 or so on it for an extended warranty.

How far from the plm is the switchlinc. When we moved into our house 4 years ago there were more than 50 x10 devices. After the bedroom lights turned on a few times in the middle of the night I started my upgrade migration. Hang in there Dave and you will get this worked out. Probably need some more insteon gear to strengthen your system. I have an outlet box with an extension cord that I can put a switch into and plug in. This way I can bench test all new devices before I install them.

Regarding the warranty, I have had a TiVo unit die in 5 months and was offered a refurbished unit as a replacement. I think the warranty was 4 months. A 7 year warranty on electronics is unheard of. Insteon seem to be superior to others in the market, especially if you consider the quality price ratio and buy when there is a sale. If budget is no concern and you want to hire a guy to set up a control 4 system, that is great. Then call him every time you want to change something. (I do know that there is now the ability to do some user programming). Regarding controlling things with your phone, I rarely do this. When I do it is thru Roomie remote to adjust a lighting scene. Otherwise, scenes are automated and I have plenty of kpls around to easily turn something on or off. The hub, if it works, is what the typical user needs to set up some scenes and control them with a phone. If you want more elaborate control then the isy is the way to go. So insteon is not dead. There are some really annoying issues such as the batch of switchlinc devices with a different white color, the cost of custom buttons, etc. however, I do not think I could use another protocol and replace all of my devices and maintain the same level of function.

The range extenders are reported to give more coverage than a DB switch in an electrical box. I have one switchlinc in our screened porch and an appliance linc and iolinc in a sockit box in the backyard. They all seemed to survive the hotlanta summer. The switchlinc also did fine last winter when we had single digit temp days. The switch is in an outside wall of the house so it is likely that the switch had some extra warmth and insulation to it.

Here is my youtube video of the door sensor. The reason I had to hit the off button of the Kpl to turn the light off is because pushing the door sensor plunger does not do so. http://youtu.be/T1-GyEcT-t

Gerry, I have done this for our basement door, so when the door opens, the light immediately turns on with a scene. When the door closes, nothing happens. This was done by setting the door sensor into a two node mode or group 1 and 2. So set the door open nodes to control the scene for the closet light. Then use a program to turn the light off if sensor 1 closed and sensor 2 closed are on, set scene closet light off. Or I think you can use if sensor 1 and sensor 2 are not on then... I can't get to my admin console right now to give actual programs. E

Scyto, My thought about the monitoring was this. You have three responders for your scenes, switchlinc dimmers I presume. Say you hit B and the responders go to 50%. Then you go to one of the dimmers and turn a light off. Then your B scene is no longer in effect so most people would want the B KPL to turn off. The monitoring program would be something like this. If Switchlinc A is not 50% and B is not 50% and C is not 50%, then set scene KPL B off (where B is the responder of the KPL B scene). You may also need if A and B and C are 50% set scene KPL B on. If you do not use the monitoring program then consider the toggle status of the ABCD buttons, toggle vs non-toggle on. Or if you have inline or microlincs where you do not control loads individual then forget what I wrote. Eric

Scyto, It appears that you are receiving great help and hopefully you will resolve your issues. Sometimes things dont work as expected and there are ways to work around this with programs. This can preserve your sanity. I have an older keypad that needs a correction program to adjust some of the kpl buttons. For you create 4 scenes with 3 buttons as responders (ABC, ABD, ACD, BCD).. Create 4 programs. First is IF status A is on then set scene BCD off. Create one for each of the other buttons. ( I think you will need some programs anyway to monitor your scene buttons. For example if A is on and one of the scene members is changed then you probably want A to turn off. Check this tutorial which describes very well how to do this: http://www.adamsj.com/isy/basementA.htm Eric

I made the move from smartlinc to the isy about a year ago. I did the same prep work as you have. Reading threads is invaluable. I went room by room adding devices, creating folders for each room. In each folder I have sub folders for devices and scenes. I then created my scenes. I have kpl buttons that control scenes in adjacent rooms so I wrote notes to make sure I did not leave anything out. I took the advice of factory resetting devices before adding them. Once I had all off my scenes in I added my basic programs which essentially are timers for landscape lights etc. next I went for more elaborate programs such as scene monitors, notifications. Good luck, you will get all the help you need in this forum. Eric

Bernie, Regarding the window treatments I have been fairly happy with my somfy motors and somfy dry contact interface. However, after 4 years one of my motors has gone bad. The motors are in roller shades controlled with KPL buttons and set on a timer to come down around sunset. I just installed a new shade in the great room and have another dry contact interface but no motor yet. The function is limited to open and close. On the smarthome forum there is a guy, Paceyben, who has an interface with greater functionality. E Also, I did set up a Honeywell wifi thermostat for the basement. Useful for me to check to make sure that the system is not on a hold temp and running all night. For the most part the thermostats are set and forget. However, I would like some integration for our great room thermostat if the porch door is opened or away mode is triggered that the system turns off or moves to a more conservative setting.

Battery operated devices have to be put into linking mode in order to be discovered. Check the manual for the door sensor. I think you have to hold the set button for a few seconds. Are you using an Isy or a hub.

Jrk, I have an io linc and a 3 wire door sensor (secolarm) so the sensor is on when the door is open. I use a single button on a bedside kpl as an indicator, on when the door is open. In your case the sensor is on when the door is closed and you want A lit. I would create a scene with the sensor as a controller and A as a responder. That is really all you need to know the status of the door. Now if you want the redundancy to have B on when the door opens, sensor off, then you you need a program. First create a scene B and add the B button as a responder. Then a program. If status io linc sensor is off (may be not on) Then set scene B on Else set scene B off The only advantage I see of using the two buttons is that if both are off or both are on then you know there is a problem. However with good communication, using only A, and maybe adding a notification email about the door you should be fine. Eric

Great job

Larry, I did upgrade the firmware recently but not sure exactly when.