ulrick65

Has anyone connect Arlo to the ISY in order to have ISY perform a task upon Motion being detected by an Arlo camera? Or activate a camera from ISY, etc.? If so, I would appreciate a point in the right direction...if this is not possible, would like to know that too so I quit looking. Thanks.

It also appears there is duplicate line entries in the instructions. Not that steps 4 and 5 are repeated again as 6 and 7.. Instructions for Migrating to V3 Review the ISY Optimized for Smart Home V3 Changes To use V3, you first need to uninstall V2 : Login to the Echo App Click on the Smart Home menu item on the left navigation bar Click on Smart Home Skills Look for ISY Optimized for Smart Home and then click on the Disable button On « ISY Optimized for Smart Home», click on Disable, then « Disable skill ». Look for ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2 and then click on the Disable button On « ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2 », click on Disable, then « Disable skill ». Then you need to forget your existing devices: In the echo app, click on the Smart Home menu item on the left navigation bar Click on Devices Scroll to the bottom and click Forget All, then Forget NOTE : Your devices will be rediscovered by the V3 skill Continue with Instructions to Enable the V3 skill in the echo app below

WOW! I can't believe I spent all that time trying to get it to work in the browser and never figured that out! You are awesome man...thanks for the tip. Works like a champ now. As a watchout to others, the writing of the variable takes a second. I had a program that calls the REST command then immediately does some math against the variable...the variable would update with the REST command but the math was not performed...I figured out that it was actually doing the math before the REST command was done..and the rest command simply wrote over it. Put a 3 second wait in after the Resource command in the program and it works perfectly. Thanks very much, I appreciate the help.

I dont have a network rule created...I am just using Chrome Browser at the moment trying to get it to work from there first.

I would love to Michel but I can't seem to figure out how to get the current temperature from the device in a program. From what I am reading I need version 5 or something like that...I am on 4.6.2 which as near as I can tell is the current release.

This is really cool...I have it up and running but I have a question regarding getting the temperature into a variable via REST. I can query the thermostat with the following from my browser: 192.168.1.180/rest/nodes/E 68 52 1/ST I get: <properties> <property id="ST" value="144" formatted="72.00" uom="degrees"/> </properties> But if I try to set my variable (which is a state variable, number 3) with: 192.168.1.180/rest/vars/set/2/3/${sys.node.E 68 52 1.ST.RAW} I get an error: <RestResponse succeeded="false"> <status>404</status> </RestResponse> However, I can set the variable perfectly fine with say "70" like this: 192.168.1.180/rest/vars/set/2/3/70 and the variable is set and I get: <RestResponse succeeded="true"> <status>200</status> </RestResponse> So it appears to me that the sys.node variable that I using is not working. I am not sure how to check it or test it? Also, I tried setting a variable with the outside temperature from the climate module like so: 192.168.1.180/rest/vars/set/2/3/${mod.weather.temp.current} but it also fails. I assume this is because the climate module is adding in the "F" so it fails to update the variable as it wont take strings, but I am not sure of that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Setting up the Alexa went easy...then I got stuck on this for hours!

I have an "all off" program that I simply add any new devices or scenes to and then simply call this program whenever I need (currently using Alexa to do it, mostly at bedtime). If specific lights have a scene (which many of mine do) I simply add the scene instead of the device, makes it easier that way and all my keypad buttons stay in sync that way too. So "Alexa, turn on bedtime" turns off every light in the place and then turns on my bedroom dim and the master bath too (after all, we all go there right before bed right?)

I wanted to update the thread with my findings. Upgrading to the new PLM worked like a charm. The upgrade process went smoothly and all devices are now working properly. I guess that confirms that the 2412s was not compatible with the new switches. Thanks for all the input.

I agree and understand...I took your advice earlier and already ordered a new one (will be here tomorrow). I am just curious as to why it doesn't work when everything else does perfectly. I have less than 200 links in the PLM. We will see when the new one arrives. I will do the swap and post back about it. Thanks.

Thanks...I am sure I will have something to work then. I am not looking forward to reloading a new PLM...everything except these new switches works perfectly. I am afraid of dumping to a new PLM will not yield perfect results...I am hopeful, but I am usually not that lucky!

You are right...and I read that in the instructions. I probably have the power brick somewhere as I have a bunch of power bricks in a box. But just in case is there something special about it? What voltage/amperage does the ISY need? I want to be sure I pick the right one. Thanks.

Thanks for info everyone....I ordered one, will be here Tuesday (Amazon is awesome). I am curious though to understand the WHY of this not working. If the Switchlinc Dual Band can link just fine with an old non dual band (I assume it can, but I have not tried it I guess) then why wont it work with the 2412S? Did they change something about the protocol or ? If there is a link somewhere that points me to understanding the differences or versions of the protocol, I would love to have it...I got some catching up do! Thanks Guys.

Thanks Michel... Actually, I AM having issues with new dual band switches (see my post in the Communications Problem section of this forum). I messed with it for several hours and came to the conclusion that the PLM is likely the issue and I can link them all fine, but ISY just can't see them or see any of their traffic in event viewer. I assumed that the dual band simply meant PL and RF, but I am guessing the PL side has some sort of new protocol that the 2412s doesn't understand...is that right? Thanks...looking for to using ISY again, the Alexa integration is awesome and works flawlessly.

I just wanted to say that this product is awesome... I bought my first one in 2007/2008 time frame and setup my house with it. A couple years later I moved and took most of it with me (along with a huge pile of devices I bought at wholesale). I upgraded to the 994i/IR PRO a few years ago but never really got back into it. Bought a new house last year and just recently decided to put in the whole system again....WOW! This thing has come a LOOONNGGG way from the old days. I am about halfway done and have Alexa controlling everything without a hitch so far. I have updated to the most recent rev and all looks great. Well done folks... One question: I have an old 2412s PLM that ISY reports as v.63 I don't seem to have any issues, but just wondered if I should be looking to upgrade that for any reason (compatibility, speed, etc.). Thanks...great work on this little gem!

I tried waiting (even longer than 5 minutes) and I tried doing it right away after the reset. Didn't seem to make it work either way...but then all of sudden the one linked. Then, after several tries, the second one linked. What does "Failed writing the high water mark" mean? Is that any kind of clue? Also, shouldn't I see traffic in the event log (set to level 3) whenever I push the set button?

I have tried facory reset several times and a new battery. I have now been able to get two of them working (found a 4th one still in the box that I ordered back then too!). I do not do anything different when it actually links...just seems to work all of a sudden. Also, once linked it works fine too... Perhaps I have some interference somewhere that I need to track down. Thanks for the help...I will report back if I come up with anything different. Thanks.

Rebooted ISY and got some traffic going in Event Viewer at least. It failed several times but then this last time it finally linked. The error message I kept getting was "Unable to Set High Water Mark" and "Remove Devicelinks Failed". The time before the last where it worked...it looked as though it was going to complete, but then I got "Not Added - Restore Node Failed". I am going to try and link another one now. EDIT: No dice on this one. I get "Failed writing the high water mark" (same as before...I just wrote it wrong above) and "Node not added - Failer Removing Links". EDIT2: I am noticing that on the one that is linked I am getting an error in the log. It detects motion and shows up in ISY fine (on...then a minute later the off if received). The error that shows up in the log is: [iNST-SRX] 02 50 0A.4.BF 00.00.01 C7.13.01 LTOFFRR(01): Process Message: failed not sure if that means anything?

I tried that too Michael...but perhaps I am doing it wrong. I enter a name, enter the address and select the device. I assume I have the Motion Sensor in link mode when doing this (hold button for 5 seconds), right?

I've got this same problem. I finally got around to digging out the motion sensors I bought way back when. They are 4408 REV 1.0 and I have 3 of them....I can't get any of them to link in to my ISY99-IR/Pro. I assume these work the same as any other device in ISY (start the linking process in ISY and then hold down for 5 seconds). The motion sensors LED starts blinking but ISY does not recognize then. When I press the set button, the ACCESS points in the house blink so I know it is in range. I just upgraded today to the latest release (before digging these out) and everything else in the house seems to be working fine. Can anyone confirm this rev works with ISY and this rev. of the firmware? Any ideas what might be going on here? FYI...I had one of these linked to my ISY when I first bought them (tested it out and it worked fine back then) I have since removed it from the ISY. THanks.

Unless you have a lot of links for these devices already, I would remove them from ISY, perform a factory reset on each one and then readd them and recreate the scene. That will insure that all the previous links have been removed.

If my tired old memory serves me right, this was identified as a problem before and Michel mentioned it was added to the list. But of course, I could be wrong in which case someone will correct me I hope. Eric

I actually laughed out loud when I saw your post Gary...funny.

Sorry...but I have to jump in here... In my opinion, you are asking for trouble with this method. I am nearly certain (98.743%) that you will have trouble with this and not get all of the links that you need to get. You will end up going back and trying to relink missing links, figuring out what is missing, etc. I know it is a lot of work...but really, I think it will be worth it in the end....just go ahead and recreate the stuff. My gut tells me that you will be chasing ghosts and problems for a week and then finally doing a reset anyway. Just my 2 cents... Eric

How are you looking for the state of these keys? Can you give some detail as to how you use them? These buttons are normally referred to as "secondary buttons" on the keypadlinc (KPL). Normally, you can refer to them in programs and check the status of them in the IF section...to see if they are on or off, but this can be a bit tricky at time depending on what you are doing with them. Perhaps posting your programs would help... Eric

It mounts in the fixture for the light. What you have to do is rewire the wires that go down to the switch box #1 that you currectly have. This is called a "switch loop". Basically, power comes into the fixture first, then you run that power down to the switch and back to the fixture. In your case, you have a 3-way switch that complicates it a little more. The power runs down to your first box and then "travels" to your second box via the traveler wires, then back to your 1st box, then back to the fixture (via the black wire). In a switch loop, it is "code" that the white wire be the "feed to the switch"...which in your case it is. With the 2 wire dimmer kit (http://www.smarthome.com/2474D/2-Wire-INSTEON-Dimmer-Kit-White/p.aspx you can get dimming capability with your setup. It comes with good directions, but the jist of it is this: You install the dimmer portion (that controls the load) in the fixture. You rewire the "switch loop" that goes down to your switch to be a normal power (black) and neutral (white) and then connect the no load switchlinc dimmer. This solves the problem. You can install the second switchlinc dimmer in box #2 and connect it to the neutral that you can pick up on there (because, as Rand said, it has no load attached, it will be the only load...and it will get on the powerline via the power and neutral in that box, so it does not violate code). OR.....you could run the power and neutral that you have in box #1 over to box #2 via the 3-wire cable that you have (leaving one wire unused) and accomplish the same thing, while keeping both switches on the same circuit (this is what I would do if I were doing this in my house). Running the new wire solves the problem, so if you can wait...you can save the cost of the 2-wire switchlinc kit. Eric Does it have to be the first fixture, if thats a yes then which is the first fixture, from which end. My fixtures are in a square pattern in the basement ceiling (so no attic ) I was able to pull one of the fittings down and can get at the box which is screwed to the joists. At this stage I haven't got an InlineLink but would you mind explaining exactly how it would all work. Do I use standard 3-way switches and if so how does the dimming work etc.. Thank you, Wayne [/url]