smokegrub

Thanks, Stu. Looks like I am getting a reading of [20]. Which, if it is correct, is in degrees centigrade. Do you know how to have the report in degrees fahrenheit?

I set it up with this in the body of the message: Indoor Temps $(sys.node.20 49 6D 1.ST) and that is what I got when I received an alert--no temperature.

Xathros: The device number for my thermostat is 20.29.6D

I read what I could find on variables and it was sketchy at best. I could find no detailed information on how/where to create the variable. Of course, I saw the Variables tab and opened it but I can find nothing that tells me what to put in each of the fields and definitely nothing about where/how I would create the variable ${sys.node.zw011_1.52}. By the way, what is the expression zw011_1.52? Is it supposed to be the device ID? Sorry for the bother but I am in over my head here.

Thanks, Paul. Will read.

That programming is totally foreign to me and I have not yet used variables. Where can I turn to get guidance on how to attempt this?

I have searched and I can find nothing but I thought I would check with the pros before I abandoned the idea. Thanks.

Thanks, I can do that. What I want to know is can its current temperature (whatever that may be) at a given time be sent. In other words, if I want to know what the temperature is at 7:00 am every morning can I get a notification with the actual temperature at that time.

Is it possible to have a 2441ZTH thermostat (powered) notify me daily at 7:00 am of its current temperature and humidity?

I have had similar experiences.

Thanks for the feedback.

I have not yet used Z-Wave and I need some door sensors where the Insteon Hidden Door Sensor is not compatible. Are you using the Z-Wave product? Plusses? Minuses?

My experience with notifications routed by one ISP (Suddenlink ) to another ISP (Cox) are invariably slow, ranging from 5-30 minutes! Notifications originating within Cox and delivered to my Cox account range from seconds to a few minutes. Motion activated photos always take several minutes.

: ) Actually, when something fails to do what it was supposed to do I stumble around a lot trying to figure out which program/scene/device is the culprit. Given that I am 70 years old I have an excuse!

That is pretty much what I do.

19 programs and that seems a lot to me. How do you guys keep up with all those programs?

My thanks, again, to you guys. It sounds like an Elk 9200 and an Insteon 2635-222 are in my future. The solution is expensive, but it sounds perfect for my application. It seems evident that if the Elk fails, it fails open. That could leave us without hot water but feedback and the simplicity of the design seem to indicate such a failure has a low probabilty. If the Insteon device fails, I have a couple of backups on hand.

Okay. I did a quick review of a couple of utube videos and here is what I think I learned. 1. A contactor is a device which closes a circuit magnetically when receiving a 24 v input to the magnet. If that is correct, how does an Insteon Micro Relay device fit into the proposed strategy? It seems to me that a SmartInit EZI040 makes sense. I use one of these now to control the On/Off status of my water sprinkler system.

Will undertake some research on the dual pole 240 VAC Relay. Thanks.

Teken: My electrical knowledge/aptitude, if distilled, would easily reside in a thimble! Thus, I do not understand the terms NOS, N.O. and N.C. If the potential exists for the unit to fail, cycling nonstop then that is a non-starter since the location is 325 miles from my home and I can't intervene. Currently, no pun intended, I throw the breaker when we leave that location. The only downside to that approach is that hot water is unavailable until it is heated when we return.

Thanks. Does the 240 controller normally fail in the On position? I ask because that mode of failure would allow hot water to be used until repair/replacement of the controller. Failure in the Off position is entirely unacceptable.

I have an electric hot water tank at a remote location that I would like to turn on/off remotely using an ISY 994i IR Pro. Any advice based on experience good or bad will be appreciated.

Thanks, Teken. I tend to agree with your assessment. My KPLs are all doing fine but then again, they are not very old.

I have decided to add a few more KPLs but when I saw the reviews for the 2334-232 and, especially their longevity, I became concerned. One could have substituted PLM for KPL in the reviews. What's the deal?

Sounds like a mini remote and another fanlinc is in my future. Thanks, again.